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uwe · 03-16-2005, 09:50 PM

New propane rack, tanks, hoses, and regulator. Also, I fitted a new tongue jack. It required enlarging the lower hole in the couple. That was a mess! I used 3 die grinder atachments until the hole was finally big enough.
I am going to take apart the tongue jack and give it a coat of silver paint on the parts that are white now. Looks funky in white.

3Ms75Argosy · 03-16-2005, 10:59 PM

All you folks redoing your trailers is making me jealous. I can only strip so much paint at a time!! The Argosy will shine....eventually.

Looking great Uwe! Any interior plans for the cabinets?
Marc

jcferguson · 03-17-2005, 06:59 AM

Uwe, the new side looks great - did you cut the wheel well slot by hand?

Carlos

Over59 · 03-17-2005, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcferguson

Yes, of course, I don't know why I didn't think of that - the max I would carry would be 40 gallons when the fresh tank was full, and this is close to what the trailer carried originally, when I am "done" using the water, it will just be redistributed minus whatever I use for drinking!

Is it safe to say that systems are designed so that the capacity of the grey tank + black tank is equal or less than the fresh tank? With the system I am envisioning (a separate pump to use extra grey water for flushing the toilet) I can't think of a situation when I would need more grey and black space than I have fresh water.

Thanks!

If you are at a site that has fresh water and electric hookup but no discharge hookup at the site. You are likly to use more water because it is unlimited except by your tank capacity.

Over59 · 03-17-2005, 07:16 AM

Uwe, what's the rating on your new axels. I am torn about the disc brakes. What angle did you use on the arms?. What shocks will you use.

uwe · 03-17-2005, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

All you folks redoing your trailers is making me jealous. I can only strip so much paint at a time!! The Argosy will shine....eventually.

Looking great Uwe! Any interior plans for the cabinets?
Marc

Hi Marc,
Yes. The layout will be very similar to stock. Fridge to the left of the entry door, pantry cab next to it, then a 12"deep, 36in high cabinet that meets the hanging cabinet just ahead of the bath tub.
The opposite side of the fridge wil have the stove, then the sink, with counter top in between. Water heater is under the stove, so is water pump and filter.The bed is on the streetside, so is the toilet. A/C under the bed, with ducts to the front and rear bulkheads.
I am collecting maple boards right now to construct the interior. I visit different lumber outlets whenever I remember, and buy flamed or otherwise nicely figured maple boards. There is usually only one or two in a whole stack of boards that has a nice figure in it. Once stained and shellacked, this figure will pop out in a very deep dimension.
The front of the trailer will get no built ins, just clean floor all the way to the front window. We're going to use some 50's modern chairs and table, perhaps on a rug. Once we have camped in it for a while, we might do either a dinette or a goucho, but for now I want to leave this option open.
That's the plan - at least for this week.

uwe · 03-17-2005, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcferguson

Uwe, the new side looks great - did you cut the wheel well slot by hand?

Carlos

I used an air nibbler for the curves, and then air shears for the straight run.
My air shears can't cut curves very well. That is, unless you need a perfectly straight cut. Then, somehow, you end up with all kinds of curves.

uwe · 03-17-2005, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Over59

Uwe, what's the rating on your new axels. I am torn about the disc brakes. What angle did you use on the arms?. What shocks will you use.

I bought the shocks from InlandRV. After much consideration, I decided that the standard hydraulic Airstream shocks would fit and function best.
All of the shocks at Napa were too stiff in my opinion. I wanted the shocks to be very passive in this setup, really just dampen the suspension. I thinnk that gas shocks add a very stiff character to the ride, which in my experience is not desirable for an Airstream suspension. Inlad has a good price on these shocks.

Ken J · 03-17-2005, 10:21 AM

VERY NICE work!

uwe · 03-18-2005, 10:04 PM

I was able to spend some time this afternoon, bucking rivets on the trailer. A friend came down from LA to lend a hand. We got the curbside lower skin riveted on now, and the wheel well attached as well. I still have to do some adjustments to the door frame, set the rivets that hold the skin tot eh floor channel,and apply sealer to everything. But the skin is on, and it came out looking excellent. Makes me want to reskin some other areas as well. We'll see....

Over59 · 03-19-2005, 07:38 AM

Uwe, how does that AC vent. It's the KoolCat? I've be thinking hard on it as well but cann't tell from the online info were the holes in the trailer need to be, side, bottom, ??

Ken J · 03-19-2005, 07:42 AM

Uwe

Thank you so much for keep us posted. I am sooooo excited about your progress - don't know who is having more fun at this point - you seeing this great project move along or us getting to watch.

Question - you have had several "bucking" partners - how long does it take for the bucker to come up to speed - have you practiced with each one before you start on the trailer - or are you comfortable enough to just go for it.

Ken J.

uwe · 03-19-2005, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Over59

Uwe, how does that AC vent. It's the KoolCat? I've be thinking hard on it as well but cann't tell from the online info were the holes in the trailer need to be, side, bottom, ??

Over,
I believe the Cool Cat does not have enough cooling capacity to use in the Overlander. My choices are either a 15000btu 120V window unit that's modified to sit on the floor under the bed, or a Duo Therm small basement A/C, mounted in the same location.
A duct must be provided for the unit to draw fresh air from the bottom of the coach, similar to a refrigerator vent, but capable of more air volume.
Air exhaust would be through the side of the skin. Cold air ducts connect to the housing at different places. I have not tackled this part of the thought process completely. I would like to use the window A/C, because I already own it. It was used 1 summer to cool down my workshop before I moved my business to a different location. It is quiet and quite powerful. It is the biggest unit to still run on 120V. Both units weigh in at about 80-90lbs, if I remember correctly. The window A/C will have to be modified substantially, of course.
Here is a link of the rv alternative:
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newsto...C8A1F8154C41FF
I don't have much info on the window unit, other than it's similar in size.

uwe · 03-19-2005, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ken J

Uwe

Thank you so much for keep us posted. I am sooooo excited about your progress - don't know who is having more fun at this point - you seeing this great project move along or us getting to watch.

Question - you have had several "bucking" partners - how long does it take for the bucker to come up to speed - have you practiced with each one before you start on the trailer - or are you comfortable enough to just go for it.

Ken J.

Ken,
Good point. Somehow it always works out just great, though. It must not be very difficult to get a rivet to set good and tight. So far I am very pleased with the rivet work.

Over59 · 03-19-2005, 04:50 PM

It's looking like the roof for the AC. I don't like all the "engineering" involved with the basement units.

I looked at my interior roof and indeed it is flat where the vents are located. I think the 59 - 63 are the same like that?

uwe · 03-20-2005, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Over59

It's looking like the roof for the AC. I don't like all the "engineering" involved with the basement units.

I looked at my interior roof and indeed it is flat where the vents are located. I think the 59 - 63 are the same like that?

I don't know where it would mount on my roof. I've been up there, installing the fantastic vents, and the only place I could imagine would be the center vent area near the galley ceiling. I suppose Airstream has installation instructions for the older coaches still available.
My main reasons for the use of a "basement" unit of sorts is that I like the idea of the low center of gravity, and the clean look of an undisturbed roof line.

uwe · 03-20-2005, 11:35 AM

Well, almost. I still have to trim the ends of the wheel cutouts, where they meet the belly wrap, and apply sealer to the inside of all the new seams.
My trailer had an accident sometime in it's former life, which left the streetside wheel hoousing slightly crumbled, and also bent the 2nd vertical rib by about 1.5 inches at the worst spot. I was unable to straighten out the rib, it simply would not budge. So, since it's behind the refrigerator/pantry area, I deceide to do a cheater rib. I cut some .032 aluminum, bent it into an angle, and cut slots with my nibbler in one side of the flange. This allows the channel to conform to the outer skin, and be pop riveted to the damaged vertical rib. From the outside, it is completely invisible. The inside, although not perfect as I wish it was, will be hidden behind the cabinetry.

uwe · 04-15-2005, 07:48 PM

Update:
Played with insulation this week, after major cleanup and complete interior skin removal. Took out everything, including the end caps. I walked them right out the door, put them on my hunched back, like a turtle.
I followed Malcolms example on the insulation. Take a look:

uwe · 04-15-2005, 08:03 PM

Of course I had to try a little compounding. Here the result so far:

Ken J · 04-16-2005, 07:14 AM

Uwe

It really makes my day to see your updates. I see you decided to use the foil stuff - is it pretty quiet when its all on?

You do such nice work - your a real inspiration - I get by on my 58 this week!

Ken J.