RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-30-2007, 09:57 PM   #881
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,429
LG Art Cool Split Air System

Uwe, I agree with you that the real test for the split air system will be out in the middle of a California or Arizona desert.

Iíve used it on a couple of 30 degrees Celsius plus days here and Iím very happy with it.

The air distribution is fine. A little bit less behind the unit, in the bathroom, but that was expected and accepted. No problem.

I use these split air systems in Toronto to service rooms about 750 s.f. The trailer is maybe 160 s.f so, if anything, the problem might be whatís called ďshort cyclingĒ. My air conditioning guy said it should not be over 6 stops and starts per hour.

So far, on the hottest days it didnít exceed that.

I chose a non-traditional method for the same reason as you, I think: we didnít want to compromise the iconic Airstream shape with an ugly, heavy blob on the roof.

I chose ductless for the same reason that I wanted to get rid of propane in the trailer: I donít like the inefficiency and noise of ducting.

These Japanese developed split air systems are really very advanced. Like the Honda generators, they use inverter technology so the outside condenser does not work all the time that the inside blower unit is running.

Remote control. Four different types of cooling. (A couple of them use Ďfuzzy logicí, like a Japanese rice cooker). Four speeds including a ďchaosĒ setting, which imitates natural breeze.

Iíll keep the forum posted. So far itís terrific.

Ingrid, you can find information on my main thread, post #110:


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...1976-argosy-d-


Sergei
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2007, 10:02 PM   #882
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,429
Ingid:

The link above didn't paste correctly. Here it is again:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...e-18448-8.html
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 11:50 AM   #883
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Brake line routing for hydraulic disc brakes

Responding to inquiries on brake line routing, I have taken pictures of my installation. The electrical requirements were addressed while the shell was off. The power supply is a 10gauge, the control wiring is 12g, ground wire is also 10g.
My electric/hydraulic actuator is mounted just forward of the curb side wheel well, so that the hydraulic line could be routed straight throught he bottom front of the wheel well, eliminating long brake line runs.
The first picture shows the actuator, and the line going through the wheel well. My apologies for the less-than-stellar picture quality. It's kind of difficult to cram a camera in the available space..
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4990.jpg
Views:	151
Size:	547.7 KB
ID:	40464  
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 11:56 AM   #884
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
This is a continuation of the brake line. as it exits the interior, and feeds a T under the curb side wheel well. From the T, it runs fore and aft to the individual wheels, and also through the axle mounting plate to a longer line that connects both sides of the axles.
I chose to run the outside ( exposed) brake lines through some conduit, so that there is a better margin of protection in case of a tire blowout. The pictures below also show the clips the secure the end of the flexible line to the mounting brackets.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4987.jpg
Views:	126
Size:	502.1 KB
ID:	40465   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4977.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	517.2 KB
ID:	40466  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4983.jpg
Views:	125
Size:	515.4 KB
ID:	40467   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4985.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	487.8 KB
ID:	40468  

__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 12:04 PM   #885
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
The solid brake lines terminate in brackets supplied with the Dexter brake install kit for torsion axles. The brackets mount to the frame, and stabilize the transition from solid brake line to rubber flex line. The rubber lines are necessary to allow for suspension movement. They provide a connection from the frame mounted lines to the torsion arm mounted brake calipers. Careful routing is important, to prevent the tire, shock or torsion arm from potentially chafing the rubber line, resulting in brake fluid loss and subsequent brake failure.
I chose flexible lines that have a 90degree bend from the factory, to avoid too much kinking of the rubber brake line.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4978.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	443.1 KB
ID:	40475   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4979.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	568.3 KB
ID:	40476  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4980.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	510.8 KB
ID:	40477   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4981.jpg
Views:	108
Size:	526.3 KB
ID:	40478  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4982.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	593.2 KB
ID:	40479   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4984.jpg
Views:	113
Size:	483.8 KB
ID:	40480  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN4985.jpg
Views:	115
Size:	487.8 KB
ID:	40481  
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 12:11 PM   #886
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
As far as installation goes, it took about 1 full day to install all the brake lines. I used a tubing cutter, a tubing bender, and a double flare tool to modify brake lines that were too long, or needed reshaping etc. The clamps that mount the brake lines ( both rubber and metal lines) are the kind with a rubber insert on the inside, keeps things nice and safe. I have towed this trailer for many thousand miles so far, and the last inspection showed no signs of problems, anywhere in the brake system.
Your installation will most likely vary due to layout differences, but the basics should still be similar. My goal was to to use the sortest runs possible, with the least amount of T's. I was concerned at first over the fact the the feed for the brake system is so close to the right front wheel, but in reality, the brake bias is perfectly even to all 4 wheels.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 02:44 PM   #887
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
I'm about to start this project tonight. Thanks for the info and photos.

I do have a question. I have never worked with brakes before so I do know how to bleed them. I understand the principle but what/where do you physically turn to let the air escape as you apply the pressure?

Also, what kind and how much brake fluid will I need?
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 02:59 PM   #888
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I'm about to start this project tonight. Thanks for the info and photos.

I do have a question. I have never worked with brakes before so I do know how to bleed them. I understand the principle but what/where do you physically turn to let the air escape as you apply the pressure?

Also, what kind and how much brake fluid will I need?
You do or do not know how to bleed them?
The idea is to get all the air out of the lines, replacing it with brake fluid.
I bought 2 quarts of brake fluid, and it was plenty. I bought it from my supplier that I use for Mercedes parts, the brand name is Pentosin. I imagine that all brand name brake fluid would work just as well, though.
Being that I did the brake bleeding alone, I rigged my remote starter switch that I use for valve adjustments with a long wire set, so that it activates the brake actuator. One side to 12V, the other side to the brake control wire at the trailer cord. This way I could push the button, and creep from wheel to wheel and bleed the fluid out. After bleeding one wheel I went inside to make sure the reservoir in the actuator never ran out. To prevent brake fluid spills, I used a section of clear tubing and pushed it over the brake bleeder nipple before loosening the bleeder screw. I started with the wheel that is farthest from the actuator, and worked my way back. I did the sequence three times, pausing for an hour or so in between. Maybe three times are overkill, but I wanted to make sure that all potential particles were flushed out, being that it was a new installation. Others might know more about brakes, but this is the procedure that I used, and the one that worked well for me.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 03:16 PM   #889
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Type error on my.

I do NOT know how to bleed them. I understand the concept though.

Where is the bleeder nipple and screw?

Good idea on the long wire/switch.
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 03:33 PM   #890
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Type error on my.

I do NOT know how to bleed them. I understand the concept though.

Where is the bleeder nipple and screw?

Good idea on the long wire/switch.
The bleeder nipple is also the screw. The bottom section of the bleeder nipple accepts a hex wrench. I used one of my metric offset box end wrenches, so as to not damage the smallish hex on the bleeder nipple. Unscrew it a quarter turn, or until air or fluid or both escape.
I forgot to mention to use a container of some sort to catch the brake fluid that will spill out of the clear tubing.
When I first hit the switch to bleed, the actuator pushed air and fluid with such force, that there was a loud clunk when all 4 brake calipers slammed the pads onto the rotors. These are serious brakes....
You might also tighten all the nuts and bolts on the brake assemblies, just to be sure everything is nice and tight.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 03:41 PM   #891
Rivet Master
 
wkerfoot's Avatar
 
1979 23' Safari
1954 29' Liner
Orange , California
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,788
Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
The bleeder nipple is also the screw. The bottom section of the bleeder nipple accepts a hex wrench. I used one of my metric offset box end wrenches, so as to not damage the smallish hex on the bleeder nipple. Unscrew it a quarter turn, or until air or fluid or both escape.
I forgot to mention to use a container of some sort to catch the brake fluid that will spill out of the clear tubing.
When I first hit the switch to bleed, the actuator pushed air and fluid with such force, that there was a loud clunk when all 4 brake calipers slammed the pads onto the rotors. These are serious brakes....
You might also tighten all the nuts and bolts on the brake assemblies, just to be sure everything is nice and tight.
Uwe,

How did you get a box end wrench over the tubing and onto the nut? I always use a flare nut wrench which wraps around all but one side of the nipple and therefore has an opening to for the tubing to pass through.

Are the nipples metric rather than SAE?

Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental, 2014 Dodge Durango
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA

https://billbethsblog.blogspot.com/
wkerfoot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2007, 03:46 PM   #892
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkerfoot
Uwe,

How did you get a box end wrench over the tubing and onto the nut? I always use a flare nut wrench which wraps around all but one side of the nipple and therefore has an opening to for the tubing to pass through.

Are the nipples metric rather than SAE?

Bill
I put the box end wrench on first, then the tubing over it.
The bleeder nipples are most likely SAE. I just happened to have a nice fitting metric box end wrench for it.
I am talking about bleeding, not installing the steel tubing.
The flare nuts on the steel tubing should be tightened with a flare nut wrench, of course.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2007, 01:33 AM   #893
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Well, I got it done today. It took me about 10 hours from start to finish.

I used BluDots tandem torsion axle kit. It came with various brackets, hoses, and different tubing lengths. I did not flair or cut them. I just used the pre-made tubes and coiled up the extra and secured it to the bottom of the trailer.

I had my dad come by and help with the bleeding. It took about 3 hours to bleed them as I had to jack up and remove the wheels to access the bleed screw. Switch sides, jack, remove wheel, bleed, refil resivour, etc. I did it all twice.

Man what a job. I hope it was worth it! I have not towed it yet, but they respond to the manual brake overide on the P3, and also the emergentcy brakeaway switch.

I'm just glad its done. Thanks Uwe and all for your help.

Pictures on my blog.
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2007, 10:25 AM   #894
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Right on, Tim. After a few miles of towing you will soon forget how long it took to install this. It's definitely worth it.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2007, 10:58 AM   #895
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,429
Tim:

How much did the disc brake system cost, including the accentuator.?

What brand/type accentuator did you get? I canít tell from the photo on your blog what size it is. Can you give me details?

Is that a Cozy Fan Coil unit next to it? Maybe you installed hot water heating? Sorry that I canít find time to search your whole blog just now.

Thanks for the help.

Sergei
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2007, 01:13 PM   #896
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Sergei

I PM'd you with some info so we don't hijack Uwe's thread.

:-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
Tim:

How much did the disc brake system cost, including the accentuator.?

What brand/type accentuator did you get? I can%-6t tell from the photo on your blog what size it is. Can you give me details?

Is that a Cozy Fan Coil unit next to it? Maybe you installed hot water heating? Sorry that I can%-6t find time to search your whole blog just now.

Thanks for the help.

Sergei
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2007, 11:46 PM   #897
1 Rivet Member
 
1963 22' Safari
vancouver , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 13
that brake thing. i have it on my 22' safari landyacht. what the heck is it? summitsmum
summitsmum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2007, 09:46 AM   #898
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by summitsmum
that brake thing. i have it on my 22' safari landyacht. what the heck is it? summitsmum
It was a brake cylinder. I forgot since how it functions, but it's long gone to brake thingie heaven.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2008, 01:55 PM   #899
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe View Post
My Air conditioner has proven to be more than sufficient in 100F heat, even without the installation of the duct work, as I had it planned originally. It is a 15000btu home unit, vented and drained through the floor.
Here a few pictures of the ducting that transports the cold air from the unit under the bed to the front of the trailer, and also through the bedroom wall to a vent that is yet to be installed over the bed, and into the bath.
The silver duct will be flattened, insulated, and then boxed in with either stainless sheet or a wooden enclosure.
The opening under the stove needs some sort of a large eyeball nozzle, that allows airflow where desired. I have not found this item yet. Any pointers would be much appreciated.
Hey Uwe,

Just finished re-reading your thread (your work is so fantastic and your pictures/descriptions so detailed that I'm more impressed each time I read it). So once again, thanks for taking the time to document, I know how much extra work it is on top of the ACTUAL work of a complete trailer overhaul.

My questions are around your home AC system and the ducting. I'm wondering if you ever completed flattening the metal ducting, and building surrounds for it, and if so if you had any pictures?

And also, if that flattening/enclosing step affected the airflow at all, or if it's still just as effective as before?

And finally, if you ever found an eyeball nozzle to direct the airflow and if so, what it looks like and how well it works?

Thanks for your time!

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2008, 04:09 PM   #900
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,785
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Quote:
Originally Posted by utee94 View Post
Hey Uwe,

Just finished re-reading your thread (your work is so fantastic and your pictures/descriptions so detailed that I'm more impressed each time I read it). So once again, thanks for taking the time to document, I know how much extra work it is on top of the ACTUAL work of a complete trailer overhaul.

My questions are around your home AC system and the ducting. I'm wondering if you ever completed flattening the metal ducting, and building surrounds for it, and if so if you had any pictures?

And also, if that flattening/enclosing step affected the airflow at all, or if it's still just as effective as before?

And finally, if you ever found an eyeball nozzle to direct the airflow and if so, what it looks like and how well it works?

Thanks for your time!

-Marcus
Hi Marcus,

I ran two ducts off the a/c. One goes through the bathroom divider wall, and up the backside of it to exit above the bed. This one blows quite hard.
The other duct snakes behind the galley and exits through an eyeball vent below the stove. It's too does a good job, but doesn't blow as hard as teh one over the bed.
Overall, the system works quite well. I would do it again.
One problem is condensation. The rear vent condensates heavily. It will blow mist occasionally. the metal vent gets wet, and water slowly drips down the wall. Kip explained that I need to make a plenum with a drain, to catch the condensation before it can escape out the vent. I don't notice it around here so much, but last July in Austin TX, the air ran continously for almost a week. I had to dab water off the wall at night, and stuff rags to catch the drips during the day. The front vent does not do that.
I do not have any pics handy to show you, but will post some if I find them.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Motorhome versus Trailer Member Search crzycpa Our Community 1 08-23-2011 01:30 PM
1976 Airstream Argosy RV Trailer 26 Foot, Very Good Con eBay Watch Airstreams on eBay 0 07-18-2011 11:40 AM
Trying to buy a New Trailer kingfisher24 On The Road... 2 05-13-2011 08:26 PM
How do you deal with your trailer while exploring? mikescha On The Road... 18 02-21-2011 12:36 PM
A sad end to a wonderful trailer rmk110761 Airstream History 9 02-15-2011 10:12 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:02 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.