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uwe · 08-15-2006, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

hey uwe!

i have the same height issues with my awning as well. my friend david's got the same setup on his overlander, and i swear it has 2-3 more inches of room at the awning end. i thought it might be because i'm running radial tires, instead of the biased plys. it makes my trailer ride a little lower.

the door thing is a pain. i REALLY don't want to put that chinsy looking white plastic wheel on my door... but i have a seam in the awning material right above the door that it keeps catching on, so i'll probably use it, despite the horrible look.

sorry, i can't find a pic of my awning deployed in the daytime or without the shotgun xmas lights! ha! i love it, though. looks like a bazooka, but when it's deployed, no strings for drunken jordan to trip over... plus it deploys fast, AND it's a one man job!

jp

Jordan,
I made extra holes in the upper awning arms, so it can slide out further, giving me more headroom. So far so good.
It's a 3/8in hole, 6in from the last one.

A-Merry-Can · 08-15-2006, 11:19 AM

i was thinking about doing the same thing. what are you planning to do with the door rubbing? will that fix it? i hate that plastic wheel that came with it.

also, did you attach the safety lock thing that's supposed to mount in teh middle? i left mine off, because it looked so horsey, and the aluminum case seems kinda thin to attach to it.

jp

uwe · 08-15-2006, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

i was thinking about doing the same thing. what are you planning to do with the door rubbing? will that fix it? i hate that plastic wheel that came with it.

Did not put the plastic wheelie on my door, it won't close with it on there. Besides, it looks hideous. My door just barely scrapes now, with the awning arms reach being extended 6in. I am afraid to go any higher for reasons of the arms stability inside the aluminum lower arm.
Bottom line is, the awning edge is now high enough for a 6ft+ person to walk under it, and the door barely scrapes...as good as it gets?

Quote:

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

also, did you attach the safety lock thing that's supposed to mount in teh middle? i left mine off, because it looked so horsey, and the aluminum case seems kinda thin to attach to it.

jp

Not yet, but I might do that to keep the awning from loosening while driving. I haven't even tightened all the nuts and bolts yet. There is another hour or so of work before it's completely finished.

**azflycaster** · 08-15-2006, 01:55 PM

The aluminum segment is more then strong enough to mount the travel latch on. I questioned it in a post and several members told me of bad thing that could happen with out it. Mine is installed about 2 feet from the rear, anymore then that and it would take two people to install it.

SmokelessJoe · 08-16-2006, 06:58 AM

Friends:

Does anyone out there know if the Zip Dee will fit the 1976 ARGOSY 24 without all these problems?

Sergei

uwe · 08-16-2006, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe

Friends:

Does anyone out there know if the Zip Dee will fit the 1976 ARGOSY 24 without all these problems?

Sergei

Sergei,

Judging by the changes that I had to make to fit my 1963, I am assuming that it would fit a 70's model quite well.I do remember the contour of my 1971 TradeWind, which should be similar to the 74 Argosy.

cloud55 · 08-21-2006, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uwe

I'd like to do that to my windows, Brad. Hopefully I can talk my favorite seamstress in the whole wide world into helping me making them...Lynne, you reading this?

This is the first time I've been on the forums since I had the plague. I didn't even know that you were going to get an awning...it looks great! I will be glad to make you some window awnings.

Would like to see how the snaps attatch to the window frames. Anyone happen to have a picture? Maybe Brad would be kind enough to post one.

Lynn

flyfshr · 08-21-2006, 08:49 PM

Hi Lynne and Uwe ~

I have some pix around here somewhere. I'll post them later this evening. I need to get my awning guy to put valances on the edges of mine in the near future.

Brad
FF

uwe · 08-21-2006, 09:13 PM

Shari ( insideout) has them as well. Here is her post:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...30-post28.html

flyfshr · 08-21-2006, 09:18 PM

Looks like Shari's have been attached with a center rivet. Mine have a Phillips head screw in the center. My awning guy had them and they were easy to install. For the fabric part, he also supplied the reciever part of the snap and had a punch for the hole in the fabric. Once the two sides of the recieving side of the snap were lined up, were pressed together with a smack of the hammer. Slick set up.

Brad
FF

flyfshr · 08-21-2006, 11:29 PM

Ok, finally found the pix. Pic 1 shows the snap in position, two shows with window awning in place and three shows with snap in place. These will look better with the valances added. Now where's that number for my awning guy?

Brad
FF

uwe · 08-24-2006, 07:37 PM

After the awning install, all I got done recently was one more set of window seals. I replaced the bulb seal, and the outer window glazing bead.
While doing so, I broke the little plastic piece that is in the top center of the window, holding it centered in the frame. Am small screw goes through the outer frame, and then into it. Anyone have any suggestions on what to use as a substitute?

clancy_boy · 08-24-2006, 07:47 PM

I'm looking to get my wife to make some of these but my 66 caravel does not have the window frames that yours do. My plan is to make the pockets like InsideOut on the bottom corners of the glass and use suction cups at the tops to hold them on. Since these will only be on in the campgrounds and I am looking for some added shade only then I hope it will work. She has the measurements and I hope they are done when I get home. If so I'll post pictures.

flyfshr · 08-24-2006, 10:06 PM

Uwe ~

It's been awhile since I've had mine out and I've forgotten what that plastic piece looks like. Can you post a pic of your broken one?

Brad
FF

uwe · 08-24-2006, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

Uwe ~

It's been awhile since I've had mine out and I've forgotten what that plastic piece looks like. Can you post a pic of your broken one?

Brad
FF

It's tiny - I'll try tomorrow.

cloud55 · 08-27-2006, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uwe

I will spend the next few days installing the channel to the shell, temporarily, usig #8 sheet metal screws. On Friday Murray ( Creampuff) and myself will lower the shell back on the floor for the first time. It will be sooo much easier with 2 people. Maybe I can get Airhead over here also. Hey Guys, Pizza on me!

Hi Uwe,
I am making patterns of the old floor now before we drop the belly pan. I am still a bit confused about the u channel...some folks seem to screw it down to the floor and then lower the shell down over it. Did you install the channel to the shell first? I need to decide how we are going to be putting humpty back together before we go too much farther...

We are removing some of the u channel to get the belly pan loose since it has all become kind of fused together over time. The curved ends are simply pieces of u channel that has been cut to 3-4 inch lengths. The side pieces appear to be full lengths that were screwed to the floor first....setting the shell down making sure the ribs fit inside the channel.

If we are going to screw the channel back to floor and then lower the shell...should I be numbering and marking the position of these channel pieces on the floor pattern as I take them off? Or should we not worry about it and just use plan on using new u channel?

TIA, Lynn

uwe · 08-27-2006, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cloud55

Hi Uwe,
I am making patterns of the old floor now before we drop the belly pan. I am still a bit confused about the u channel...some folks seem to screw it down to the floor and then lower the shell down over it. Did you install the channel to the shell first? I need to decide how we are going to be putting humpty back together before we go too much farther...

I did indeed install the channel to the floor. I used the outermost outrigger mounting holes and the old channel pieces as a guide. I mounted the front and rear curved sections temporarily, so that adjustments could be made easily, while fitting the shell ont henew floor. The sides were a given measurement, very easy to duplicate.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cloud55

We are removing some of the u channel to get the belly pan loose since it has all become kind of fused together over time. The curved ends are simply pieces of u channel that has been cut to 3-4 inch lengths. The side pieces appear to be full lengths that were screwed to the floor first....setting the shell down making sure the ribs fit inside the channel.

Exactly. We can make new sections up to 30in long if you'd like. I have a metal brake.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cloud55

If we are going to screw the channel back to floor and then lower the shell...should I be numbering and marking the position of these channel pieces on the floor pattern as I take them off? Or should we not worry about it and just use plan on using new u channel?

TIA, Lynn

I suggest numbering them, just in case. Keep things organized. An extra step now might save some confusion later.

cloud55 · 08-27-2006, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyfshr

Ok, finally found the pix. Pic 1 shows the snap in position, two shows with window awning in place and three shows with snap in place. These will look better with the valances added. Now where's that number for my awning guy?

Brad
FF

Thank you for posting the pictures Brad. They look nice!

Lynn

uwe · 10-12-2006, 07:46 PM

Last weekend, during a camping trip to the beach, I discovered a drip, later a massive leak from my grey water tank.
Inspection on Monday, and subsequent removal of the tank revealed a large crack along one of the short seams in the corner of the tank. I noticed a slight deformation of the side of the tank that has the crack also.
Careful measuring showed that I must have stressed the tank against the trailer's floor too hard, causing the sides to bulge out against the frame and subsequently forming the crack. Bummer, indeed.
I guess a quick course in plastic welding is in order. The material is polyethylene, and I am waiting for the appropriate welding rod from the manufacturer of the tanks. I already purchased a plastic welding device, and will try my luck with some scraps first.
The damage to the tank was caused by overtightening it's retainer frame, no doubt. Instead of just snugging up the frame, it was tightened way too tight, caused by my ignorance toward the actual torque of my air ratchet. Will use hand tools only next time...
However, the removal of the tank took only about 15min. There's always a good side to a sad story, isn't there?

Safari Tim · 10-12-2006, 10:31 PM

That is a bummer Uwe. Sorry to hear this.

I'm watching your grey tank model closely as I am about to undergo a similar installation.

I've been thinking to allow my tank to sort of float in the cavity and use rubber couplers on the inlets and outlets to allow the tank and fittings a little give. Just running it through my far too tired brain! :-)

Is their life besides vintage trailers.....