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Old 04-05-2006, 12:42 AM   #641
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Thanks....

to all the forum members that have encouraged me, motivated me, given advice, parts, information, and physical help.
A special tanks to Creampuff, who has been part of this project pretty much from day one. Airhead, wherever you are, for helping me yank the shell off the frame, jcferguson for advice and support , Cloud 55 for our Baja curtains and for future upholstery chores, pinkflamingoes and wkerfoot for visiting, and everybody else that has touched this project. There's lots more to go... I figure I just passed the halfway point.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:26 AM   #642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
AirstrmGypsy ~

For your stage tanks, try All-Rite.com. I had them make one to my specifications on size and placement of the water inlet and outlet holes and the one they made was dead on the measurements. I requested a 33 gallon tank and the cost was just over $200 and that was 4 years ago. A good deal in my opinion. I've recommended All-Rite to others and haven't heard any negative feedback.

Brad
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wow, that's great...about the same as a "stock" tank, from what I've seen. I got a quote a while back from a local place for a simple box-like tank to fit in a frame cavity space...not unlike what Uwe showed earlier in this thread...they wanted 400 bucks.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:50 PM   #643
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Dinette frames

Here a few pictures of the dinette frames. I used the same dimensions as Carlos did on his Safari, only my streetside seat will be a bit longer.
It's basically 28 wide for each seat and 29in for the table, roughly.
The table and curb side seat are 42in long, the street side seat is 52 in long. It will all be covered with 1/4in maple, and the seat bottoms will be 3/8in plywood. I plan on using a 4in foam cushion, 3in urethane and 1in latex on top.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:24 PM   #644
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Smile The thanks should go to you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
to all the forum members that have encouraged me, motivated me, given advice, parts, information, and physical help.
Uwe, You're an inspiration to us all! Your attention to detail and the craftmanship of your work has definately given me something to strive for!
Thank you for all your helpful hints and great advice.

(Pinkflamingos just told me you're visiting her to help with tank placement. Oh, what I'd give to live closer.... Maybe she'll video tape the session!)
Diane
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:12 PM   #645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moogie32
Uwe, You're an inspiration to us all! Your attention to detail and the craftmanship of your work has definately given me something to strive for!
Thank you for all your helpful hints and great advice.

(Pinkflamingos just told me you're visiting her to help with tank placement. Oh, what I'd give to live closer.... Maybe she'll video tape the session!)
Diane

Thanks for the kind words.

Ingrid bribed me with a home cooked steak dinner....

I will have to go to San Francisco for work in a few weeks, and she's just across the bay. So, it's tanks and steaks.
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:26 PM   #646
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...and

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Thanks for the kind words.

Ingrid bribed me with a home cooked steak dinner....

I will have to go to San Francisco for work in a few weeks, and she's just across the bay. So, it's tanks and steaks.
And apple pie. Homemade crust.
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:30 PM   #647
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Yadda, yadda, yadda...

Brad
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Old 04-06-2006, 08:13 AM   #648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Here a few pictures of the dinette frames. I used the same dimensions as Carlos did on his Safari, only my streetside seat will be a bit longer.
It's basically 28 wide for each seat and 29in for the table, roughly.
The table and curb side seat are 42in long, the street side seat is 52 in long. It will all be covered with 1/4in maple, and the seat bottoms will be 3/8in plywood. I plan on using a 4in foam cushion, 3in urethane and 1in latex on top.
Uwe, do you have thoughts about backrests for your dinette - or will you have a bottom only cushion? I was thinking of having some triangular pieces made to go behind my backrest cushions - they would then be good pillow thingies for the bed set-up. The seats are rather deep, so bringing things forward towards the table with a couple pillows doesn't cause a problem. When they are removed you have the full width of the trailer for the bed. That frame looks good.
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Old 04-06-2006, 09:03 AM   #649
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dinette seats:

that piece thats attached to the wall(s): is that just another piece of 1/2" stock, with "relief" cuts in it to make it flexible enough to follow the curve?

how is it attached to the walls?

are the frames attached to the floors in any way, or just to that "cleat" on the wall?

looks very sharp!
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Old 04-06-2006, 09:15 AM   #650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Uwe, do you have thoughts about backrests for your dinette - or will you have a bottom only cushion? I was thinking of having some triangular pieces made to go behind my backrest cushions - they would then be good pillow thingies for the bed set-up. The seats are rather deep, so bringing things forward towards the table with a couple pillows doesn't cause a problem. When they are removed you have the full width of the trailer for the bed. That frame looks good.
I plan on 14x42 backrest cushions, somehow curved against the wall. The cushions then become the center section of the bed with the table leaf dropped down. I was also thinking of some kind of filler beind the cushions, but have not decided yet. I will have to sit on the foam to see how it feels before continuing this thought. I do look forward to all the storage inside these seats though.
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:40 AM   #651
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Hi, I've been watching your thread... a great inspiration!!
I'm also planning to convert to a dinette and am wondering what you'll use for the table leg.

I am also wondering whether there's enough room to do a U booth, I have a 24'... but that table configuration really baffles me! How do you use a center leg that is not wobbly, but can fold down or be removed?

Why do some do the U shape and others the straight accross? Just trying to decide!!
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Old 04-06-2006, 03:33 PM   #652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
Hi, I've been watching your thread... a great inspiration!!
I'm also planning to convert to a dinette and am wondering what you'll use for the table leg.

I am also wondering whether there's enough room to do a U booth, I have a 24'... but that table configuration really baffles me! How do you use a center leg that is not wobbly, but can fold down or be removed?

Why do some do the U shape and others the straight accross? Just trying to decide!!
Much depends on window placement. My trailer has low slung windows on both sides in the front,which prevent a large dinette seat on either side.
Ideally, my trailer should have a goucho across the front and free standing table for maximum space efficiency, due to the window layout.
I am building a compromise to meet our design ideas, and needs as well.

The table will mount on a 28in wide extrusion under the front window. The extrusion eliminates table movement left to right, as well as wobble on either side. This makes a single folding leg possible. For the table to drop down and become the bed platform, all I need to do is lift the table out of it's extrusion, and fold up the single leg, placing it on cleats that are mounted to the seat bottoms. jcferguson's 62 Safari was the inspiration for this.

Creampuff has a u-shaped dinette with a free standing table in their Flying Cloud, which also works well, but their windows are higher up, allowing backrests to be pplaced where they are needed without blocking existing windows.

So, it really depends on what you want and how much seating you need.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:01 PM   #653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
Hi, I've been watching your thread... a great inspiration!!
I'm also planning to convert to a dinette and am wondering what you'll use for the table leg.

I am also wondering whether there's enough room to do a U booth, I have a 24'... but that table configuration really baffles me! How do you use a center leg that is not wobbly, but can fold down or be removed?

Why do some do the U shape and others the straight accross? Just trying to decide!!
This is the table leg bracket I used:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=9993

and this is the hardware to attach the table to the wall:

http://www.tjtrailers.com/store/table-support.html

The leg bracket is solid and clicks into the up or down position and along with the bracket makes for a very sturdy table.
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Old 04-06-2006, 07:22 PM   #654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
Hi, I've been watching your thread... a great inspiration!!
I'm also planning to convert to a dinette and am wondering what you'll use for the table leg.

I am also wondering whether there's enough room to do a U booth, I have a 24'... but that table configuration really baffles me! How do you use a center leg that is not wobbly, but can fold down or be removed?

Why do some do the U shape and others the straight accross? Just trying to decide!!
Another thought is to re-use the existing table hardware that you have, just in a different location, under the front window for a conventional dinette.
A 68 Tradewind should have a high enough window line, and enough space in the front to give you options galore.
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:06 AM   #655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
I tried 3 styles of door gaskets that are supposed to be original to the 1963 trailers, and only one of them worked.
Here's what I tried:
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...Code=VTS%2D286
and this:
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/45313.jpg
and this, which actually worked well:
http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/005s-gasket.jpg

Installing the other 2 made the door impossible to close.
Inland's 45313 worked somewhat for the vent door in the door.

I ruined many feet of door gasket materials, and a whole tube of 3m adhesive before finding that the 70's window gasket material is the way to go. It is flexible enough to close the door against, even when installing it on both the door and the door frame.

Uwe, where did you install the seal on your door?
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:53 AM   #656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Uwe, where did you install the seal on your door?
On the body's door frame, not on the door.
I am going to try and install a second gasket on teh door surround, though.
Right now the door closes with just s slight effort. Once the gasket has settled a bit, I will try the second run.
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:59 AM   #657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
On the body's door frame, not on the door.
I am going to try and install a second gasket on teh door surround, though.
Right now the door closes with just s slight effort. Once the gasket has settled a bit, I will try the second run.
I don't think I understand where yet... Body's door frame - on the part with the backs of rivets closest to the inside of the trailer?

Do you think this stuff won't work on the door itself?

Thanks,

c
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Old 04-09-2006, 01:03 PM   #658
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Just as an FYI, I've seen garage door gaskets used for doors, worked really nice - Mark - 64 Overlander did that and looked/worked great

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Old 04-09-2006, 07:35 PM   #659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
I don't think I understand where yet... Body's door frame - on the part with the backs of rivets closest to the inside of the trailer?

Do you think this stuff won't work on the door itself?

Thanks,

c
It would work on the door itself as well.
I installed it in the recess with the backs of the rivets, like you assumed.
I installed it with the 2 lips facing into the door opening.
If you install it on the door, then I would suggest to install it with the lips pointing away from the door.
I am aiming for a double seal, as soon as the first one settles down a bit.

You'll know what lips I am talking about when you see the gasket material.

Ken makes a good point, in that I am beginning to believe that just about any suitable gasket material would work just fine. JC Whitney, here we come. I installed a JC Whitney door seal on the sliding door of a Ford Cargo Van I used to own, ( Ford wanted big $$$ for the simple gasket) and it worked remarkably well, and showed no signs of deterioration in the 3 years I owned it.
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:17 PM   #660
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I installed the gasket from inland on the door frame and it seals everywhere except the very top of the door. It seems there is a larger gap there than the sides. So I temporarily added a strip of foam to the door frame to see if it would stop water... didn't. I must need something thicker. However, the door is already semi-difficult to close. But I've never close another airstream door, so I don't know how "hard" others are to close. Basically the wind alone could never shut my door. You have to push on it near the knob when outside, or "slam" it from the inside.

Do other doors have this larger gap at the top? The door seems even, not off kilter in any way.
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