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Old 10-16-2005, 10:24 PM   #381
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Uwe,
All I can say is Awesome!!!

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Old 10-16-2005, 11:22 PM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squrlgurl
Uwe,
Where did you purchase your recessed lighting? I saw them in a 2005 AS and love the look.
-Tracey
www.swego.com, and Ikea.
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Old 10-17-2005, 08:23 AM   #383
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lights

i've been looking at this place. it's more expensive than what uwe sent. nice selection, though.

http://www.yachtlights.com

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Old 10-17-2005, 11:20 AM   #384
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Uwe,

I just looked at this thread after not following up for a long time and I have to say that I love the counters! What a great idea. We were looking at having a shop make counters but this looks like it might be so much better. Get a scratch - sand it out! Beautiful!!
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Old 10-17-2005, 02:16 PM   #385
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Uwe,

I just looked at this thread after not following up for a long time and I have to say that I love the counters! What a great idea. We were looking at having a shop make counters but this looks like it might be so much better. Get a scratch - sand it out! Beautiful!!
My thoughts, exactly. I used Salad bowl sealer oil to finish the countertops. The more coats, the shinier it gets. It's the only oil that is supposedly food safe when dry.
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Old 10-26-2005, 10:18 PM   #386
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Just checking in...LOOKS AWESOME! Can't wait to see it in person someday, hopefully soon!

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Old 10-27-2005, 12:47 AM   #387
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Thanks, Shari.
We still have quite a bit of detail work ahead of us, but overall it's coming along nicely. It actually looks much better in person than in the pictures.
I amlooking forward to some camping trips in Dec/Jan, hopefully.
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Old 10-27-2005, 09:41 AM   #388
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outstanding!

hi Uwe- you are doing an outstanding restoration/re-model, nice to see an artist at work! A question: you have put your AC where the water heater used to be, where did you put the WH? I also am moving my WH, and am so reluctant to cut a new hole in the skin that I'm thinking of just sliding it up next an existing side access-hatch, which is more or less the right size and shape. Will have to seal it up tight, and anchor it down somehow, also better have a drain pan I suppose. Any thoughts, experience, or advice? thanks and keep up the excellent work- tim
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Old 10-27-2005, 05:01 PM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
hi Uwe- you are doing an outstanding restoration/re-model, nice to see an artist at work! A question: you have put your AC where the water heater used to be, where did you put the WH? I also am moving my WH, and am so reluctant to cut a new hole in the skin that I'm thinking of just sliding it up next an existing side access-hatch, which is more or less the right size and shape. Will have to seal it up tight, and anchor it down somehow, also better have a drain pan I suppose. Any thoughts, experience, or advice? thanks and keep up the excellent work- tim
Tim,
I removed my heating furnace, and moved the water heater in it's place. It required a minimal amount of trimming the skin inside and out. I fabbed a small cradle that holds the water tank at the right height to match the outside skin's aperture. I made it from hard wood, so that I can mount a strap for the tank to it once I am finalizing the plumbing. I did not see any need for a drain pan, as all the suspect fittings and drain valves etc are towards the outside of the water heater, and with a good sealing job around the skin, occasional water drops will just make their way out, hopefully, not down and into the wood. In retrospect, it does sound like a good idea. A well designed drain pan certainly can't hurt, for the eventual strange leak that might otherwise soak your floor and cabinetry.
I used a 10gal flush mount water heater, as this model almost perfectly fits into the cavity that the old heater furnace once occupied. I painted the door silver with industrial aluminum paint, and it now looks much less offensive than the white door did.
Cutting or enlarging a hole in the skin is quite easy, as long as there are no ribs in the way.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:40 AM   #390
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Uwe,

When IKEA started selling those solid wood countertops, ten years ago or more, they recommended a 50/50 solution of turpentine and linseed oil.

I used the counters throughout an oyster and beer bar I had and it worked wonderfully in that hard commercial application. They still look great under a new owner, ten years later.

More recently I installed the countertops at home. IKEA now sells a mineral oil to treat them. It isn’t as effective and we have water damage.

Standing water, like overspray near the sinks, has to be mopped up religiously or the delamination cracks start to show up.

Maybe the turpentine and linseed wasn’t thought food safe or maybe they are the ingredients in the “Salad Bowl Oil”. Whatever, it works best. Beautiful dull luster when you buff it the day after it dries

By chance, I was at one of the 3 IKEA stores we have in Toronto yesterday. They have a really big selection of unique, good-looking 12v fixtures.

I take it you just throw away the transformers? Even so, they are still cheaper than the more garden-variety RV types available.

Sergei
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:54 AM   #391
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Sergei,

I am hoping to have sealed the counter tops very well, with about 5-6 coats of the salad bowl oil. It does smell like it has some sort of resin based solvent in it, kind of pungent. It does not remind me of something I can eventually eat off of. Come to think of it, someone mentioned linseed oil when I bought the product at Rockler's.
The finish dries very hard, especially after applying a few coats with light sanding in between.
The Ikea 12V lights are very good, actually. I do throw away the transformers when I use them in the trailer. I converted all the ceiling lights to Ikea 12V lights in my previous trailer, a 1971 Trade Wind.
Another source for 12V lights is swego. I bought a bunch of them to recess in the ceiling of my 1963 Overlander project.
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:35 PM   #392
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Heat the Oil to Soak in Better

My mother, who is now 88, used to refinish furniture. She used a 50/50 Boiled linseed oil and turpentine mixture. She recommended heating up the mixture to get it to soak into the wood better. The patina darkens the finish over time but shines up nicely with beeswax.
Be careful, the vapors are flammable if overheated.
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:52 PM   #393
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Well, the countertops are actually finished. Done deal for now. Thanks for the tips!
I used tung oil on the cabinets, which is similar, buffs up nicely with carnauba wax. Tung oil is very efficient, it seems. I only used 1 quart so far, just about to start on the second quart to finish the galley cabinet and bathroom vanity.
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:06 PM   #394
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Hi Uwe,

I'm curiously going to be watching your cabinet building; or are you buying them? Are you going to use the trailer walls for the backs of the cabinets or are they going to be enclosed units?

Curved cabinets. Sounds challenging...and we need to do it too.
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:15 PM   #395
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Hi Uwe,

I'm curiously going to be watching your cabinet building; or are you buying them? Are you going to use the trailer walls for the backs of the cabinets or are they going to be enclosed units?

Curved cabinets. Sounds challenging...and we need to do it too.
I am building them. The trailer walls are indeed the back of the cabinets.
It takes ome getting used to, with teh curves and all. Plus, it seems that every curve is different, so making a template and using it for all the walls will ony get you close, but not exact. A major p i t a.
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Old 11-13-2005, 06:58 PM   #396
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Smile Cabinets

Would like to see some pictures of you cabiner work.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:02 PM   #397
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Would like to see some pictures of you cabiner work.
There are some around post # 343. I will post more as the work progresses.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:16 PM   #398
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beautiful cabinets!

Hey Uwe - Wow - your cabinets look great! I would like to use an oil on my sanded down original oak cabinets. I tried Danish oil and was pleased with the results but unlike your maple, my wood is sucking the oil down like there's no tomorrow. I can't find Danish oil readily and when I do it's in small cans and expensive. Would tung oil darken the oak that much? I'd like to keep it light if possible. Thanks, Diane
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:20 AM   #399
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Hey Uwe - Wow - your cabinets look great! I would like to use an oil on my sanded down original oak cabinets. I tried Danish oil and was pleased with the results but unlike your maple, my wood is sucking the oil down like there's no tomorrow. I can't find Danish oil readily and when I do it's in small cans and expensive. Would tung oil darken the oak that much? I'd like to keep it light if possible. Thanks, Diane
Diane,
There's a process to oiling the wood. The first few coats get absorbed almost entirely. I opted to sand between coats to get a soft feeling final finish. Polymerized tung oil dries relatively fast, and has a natural honey tone to it. It does darken the wood slightly. A quart of tung oil runs about $ 15.00, but does go a long way. Danish oil is similar, my tests did not have much of a color difference. The tung oil did dry quicker and harder, though.
Here's a basic article on tung oil: http://doityourself.com/woodfinish/wftungoil.htm
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:06 PM   #400
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Uwe, Man does this look great. I have a few questions that go back a ways, so answer if you have time. Sorry, but somehow I missed your thread altogether and only recently finished reading it. I am in the middle of a restoration on a ’73 Overlander. I’ve got the trailer apart and am ¾ done with the frame. BTW, I agree completely with your sentiments exactly on frame repair. I’m REALLY ready to get past this stage.

So here is the barrage of questions.

What did you use to seal the aluminum sheet b/w the floor and door step? Sikaflex? Vulkem? What flavor of Vulkem are you using in areas that require Vulkem?

The welded areas aft of the wheel wells. My trailer doesn’t have “rear sag” yet, but will someday, so I’m thinking of welding the “elephant ears” that folks talk about. (I haven’t actually read up on this subject yet) Do you think the added piece on the “I-beam” or “C-beam” that you put in there would be sufficient? It appears that the ‘70’s models simply placed too much weight behind the wheels, the weakest part of the frame.

What was your source for the aluminum insulation? Is it “taped in” using some brand of two sided tape?

I really want to do something similar with wood for the partitions and cabinetry. I simply can’t stand all that dark, brittle plastic. You are using ¼ inch maple, finished on one side or two? I only have big box stores near me and all they seem to have is A/C grade ¼’

Appreciate any advice. Happy Turkey Day.

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