A '63 for me! (many good ideas for your new to you Trailer)

[Ken J]

Uwe

Forgot to warn you about saw dust - it will be everywhere......

Hmmmm not sure why the dowels were a major hassle....I use these round thingys - you drill the hole, insert the round thingy and tap the board you just drilled and then you just drill the other piece - pretty easy.....

Ken

[uwe]

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Uwe - which jig did you buy? I've been trying to make cabinets myself, but the jointing is the hardest part. Is this the jig that you bought from Rockler?
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...erings_id=2087

Can you post a pic of your joints? I like the plugs that they sell too.

I'm loving your work! Are you serious about starting an AS rehab company?
Marc

Marc,

It's this one: http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...erings_id=2085

I will try and get some pics up next week. The joinery with this KREG tool is actually fun! Make sure you get the right screws, though. 1.25in, #7, washer head with self drilling threads. Fine for hard wood, and course for softer woods, such as I am using for the framing inside. They have plugs, too.
Get a good, new saw blade, and make sure your cuts are square, the rest is childs play.

I have given advice freely, and helped some locals get their Airstreams back on the road, but I wouldn't speak of starting an Airstream rehab company.
My daily responsibilities keep me way too busy to do this commercially.
I doubt that anyone would want to pay me enough to do this for profit. The amount of time it takes to do quality work is amazing. I am beginning to understand why a decent job on a short trailer is upwards of $ 100k.
The work I do on my 63 Overlander is not for profit. It is a vehicle that will be exactly as Didi and I desire, for our own use only. A mixture of vintage style, with 2005 technical systems.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Ken J

Uwe

Forgot to warn you about saw dust - it will be everywhere......

Hmmmm not sure why the dowels were a major hassle....I use these round thingys - you drill the hole, insert the round thingy and tap the board you just drilled and then you just drill the other piece - pretty easy.....

Ken

I have the little pin hats, as well as a dowelling jig, but the joints just were not very tight and/or pretty. Then everything must be clamped and secured for a few hours, and just slows things to a crawl.
Working with the Kreg pocket screw system is much more appealing for a non-professional like me, because you can simpply unscrew stuff and move it around if you change your mind, or if it ends up not fitting in the space provided. All the while the joints are bullet proof. Glue is optional, I will probably end up applying a dab here and there during final assembly.

[3Ms75Argosy]

I guess Ken was joking that you two were starting a business.... I was already talking to my wife about taking our Argosy down to you to put new interior metal (a la Vintage Thunder) this winter....!

Edit - Ok, so you drill the first piece (I looked at the web page again), are you holding your second piece (the one to be jointed) and screwing them in (i.e. - the second piece is not pre-drilled) or are you using some kind of right angle clamp to keep everything 90 degrees and where you want it.


I like the idea of this system alot. When I was holding and pre-drilling, it just didn't seem like a sturdy joint, and the second piece would sometimes move, leaving me with an untidy joint.

Did it take much time for you to learn the system?
Marc

[uwe]

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

I guess Ken was joking that you two were starting a business.... I was already talking to my wife about taking our Argosy down to you to put new interior metal (a la Vintage Thunder) this winter....!

Edit - Ok, so you drill the first piece (I looked at the web page again), are you holding your second piece (the one to be jointed) and screwing them in (i.e. - the second piece is not pre-drilled) or are you using some kind of right angle clamp to keep everything 90 degrees and where you want it.


I like the idea of this system alot. When I was holding and pre-drilling, it just didn't seem like a sturdy joint, and the second piece would sometimes move, leaving me with an untidy joint.

Did it take much time for you to learn the system?
Marc

Marc,

The Kreg system is very easy to learn, just clamp the jig in place, drill with the included drill bit. Then line up the pieces, hold on tight and run the screws in. btw., you only drill one of the pieces. the other one remains unmolested until you drive the screws in it.
I suggest the non-drilled rails to be clamped to a work table for the first few joints, to make sure they get nice and even.
The non-drilled rails do not need any pilot holes, as the special screws have an integrated thread cutter.
The special drill bit that's included does not drill through the rail all teh way, it leaves about a 16th of an inch of material if it's stop ring is adjusted properly.
I will post a few pictures for you.
The first two are of the first test piece i did. Worked immediately.
the second set of pics is of the bottom of the bed support platform. The pocket holes will help hold a vertical oblong shaped maple board against the edge, to keep the matress from sliding off into the hallway.
If I sound enthusiastic about this system, it is because I am! My woodworking skills are far from professional, but this system still allows quick and absolute results.

[uwe]

Here's a few more shots of tonight's work.
Got to cut the streetside countertop, and prepared the sliding bed platform for installation next week. The streetside frames and countertop are cut and fitted, ready for doors and finishing.
All this will have to come back out after it's done for aplication of Tung oil, then polishing and Carnauba waxing. Just when you thought polishing was only for the outside....
I am looking for a certain warm gloss, without the lacquered plastic look. My tests with Tung oil, then buffing, then waxing have provided this exact look.

[fastrob]

Sweet, looks great! Thanks for posting.
Have you projected total weight? Your construction looks light and strong. Just wondering if you have a weight goal.
I have used mat finish water based polyurethane with bee's wax on top. The urethane is kid tested tough, water base is easy to clean up and the wax gives that warm hand rubbed finish that takes so much time to maintain.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Fast Rob

Sweet, looks great! Thanks for posting.
Have you projected total weight? Your construction looks light and strong. Just wondering if you have a weight goal.
I have used mat finish water based polyurethane with bee's wax on top. The urethane is kid tested tough, water base is easy to clean up and the wax gives that warm hand rubbed finish that takes so much time to maintain.

My weight goal is to stay under 6000lbs, travel ready.
I keep drawing parallels to my previous trailer, which was a 1971 Tradewind. My Suburban 1500 handled that one with ease. The Overlander is narrower, but one foot longer. It has less interior stuff, but the same tank system and components, so I believe that the weight will be similar.
What do you mean by a hand rubbed finish taking much time to maintain? Not sure I understand?

[jcferguson]

Uwe, the interior is looking great, there is a nice stairstepping back into the space with all the open area and staggered walls - the angle in the kitchen counter is nice as well.

I had been looking for recessed lighting like yours - I found some made by dometic, but no domestic source. Where did you find yours? I've also been thinking of track lighting that would allow me to reposition lights when I want to work in a particular area. I might use your idea and run several circuits so that I can power on just part of the trailer. Carry on, you must be feeling like getting ready to roll...

Carlos

[uwe]

Originally Posted by jcferguson

Uwe, the interior is looking great, there is a nice stairstepping back into the space with all the open area and staggered walls - the angle in the kitchen counter is nice as well.

I had been looking for recessed lighting like yours - I found some made by dometic, but no domestic source. Where did you find yours? I've also been thinking of track lighting that would allow me to reposition lights when I want to work in a particular area. I might use your idea and run several circuits so that I can power on just part of the trailer. Carry on, you must be feeling like getting ready to roll...

Carlos

Carlos,

My recessed ceiling lights came from www.swego.com

[fastrob]

[quote\]What do you mean by a hand rubbed finish taking much time to maintain? Not sure I understand?[/quote]
Wood expands and contracts with temperature and moisture changes. On hot and moist days wood absorbes moisture and swells with the grain. In other words wood can get wider not longer. When the grain is sealed with a finish moisture cannot enter the wood and cause it to swell. A wax coat brings out colors and textures in the wood but it also attracts and holds dust even when buffed to a hard finish. I still like the look and believe it is worth a little extra work.

[A-Merry-Can]

wow! i've been traveling a bit, and just caught up on your progess. very nice! i can't wait to get to the cabinetry stage! i'm hoping to be through with the skin and door work on mine in the next month, then i can start working indoors... just in time for winter. what did you decide to do with the exterior finish of yours? i know you mentioned to me that you were going to clear coat yours and possibly paint the roof white? that's where my mindset is at the moment. functionality for 10% shine reduction. ha!

seriously, man. great work! i can't wait to STOP buying aluminum panels and START buying cherry ones!

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Fast Rob

Wood expands and contracts with temperature and moisture changes. On hot and moist days wood absorbes moisture and swells with the grain. In other words wood can get wider not longer. When the grain is sealed with a finish moisture cannot enter the wood and cause it to swell. A wax coat brings out colors and textures in the wood but it also attracts and holds dust even when buffed to a hard finish. I still like the look and believe it is worth a little extra work.

Makes sense.
One of my friends, a master luthier, suggested to oil and wax and buff the wood for a very warm and durable finish.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

what did you decide to do with the exterior finish of yours? i know you mentioned to me that you were going to clear coat yours and possibly paint the roof white? that's where my mindset is at the moment. functionality for 10% shine reduction. ha!

I am going to polish the skin, then paint the center roof panel white.
This is not a very large panel on my trailer, and entirely invisible from below. Who knows, I might polish it as well. Have to get to that stage to figure it out.
I do want to apply the clear coating that Murray and I have been trying on his trailer. Trading a 10% reduction od shine on constant maintenance seems like a good idea to me. By the time I'm ready for this we will have a year's worth of testing on the coating.

[Ken J]

FWIW - I'm just leaving that top panel unpolished - I did that on the Tradewind and its hard to see. I did that because of all the junk up on the roof that you have to polish around.... If you look at my pictures, you won't notice it not polished.

I did polish the top of the 59 that I had - so I've done both

Ken J.

[A-Merry-Can]

Originally Posted by uwe

I am going to polish the skin, then paint the center roof panel white.
This is not a very large panel on my trailer, and entirely invisible from below. Who knows, I might polish it as well. Have to get to that stage to figure it out.
I do want to apply the clear coating that Murray and I have been trying on his trailer. Trading a 10% reduction od shine on constant maintenance seems like a good idea to me. By the time I'm ready for this we will have a year's worth of testing on the coating.

sounds like you're saving the best for last. i may do the same. initially i was planning on clearing teh whole thing, then putting all the running lights, patio light, etc on... but in thinking about it, i think it makes more sense to wait till it's totally done. that way i can triple check for leaks before i button up the interior, and not worry too much about dinging anything on teh outside, and NOT being able to buff her out.

speaking of buffing, i think i might try a test on one of the end caps on mine to see what i'm up against.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

speaking of buffing, i think i might try a test on one of the end caps on mine to see what i'm up against.

DON'T! You have no idea what you're about to start! Stay away from the buffer! Do not approach the polish jar! There's still time to bail on the polishing! Get a beer! Watch a movie, take a deep breath! Have someone call polishers anonymus. Turn away and forget about polishing........

[A-Merry-Can]

Originally Posted by uwe

DON'T! ........

ha! quite the motivationalist you are! it'll give me motivation to finally build that dang barn i keep talking about.

[Ken J]

Polishing is a zen thing..........

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Ken J

Polishing is a zen thing..........

wax on, wax off.......