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Old 06-05-2005, 03:57 PM   #201
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They are 1000lbs, I'm afraid. When towing my Tradewind, the 750lb bars were very stressed, so I figured the 1000lbbars might be ok for this one. I anticipate similar weights on this dolled up Overlander.
I am willing to buy or trade for lighter bars if necessary. The deal was just to good to pass up.
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Old 06-05-2005, 05:14 PM   #202
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Uwe

Thats interesting - I have 750 bars on my Tradewind - and they look normal. FWIW I would be concerned with the 1,000 lb bars on the somewhat light frame of the older trailers. I'm thinking about using 500-600 on mine. On the other hand, I know you have beefed up your frame, so perhaps you are ok......

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Old 06-12-2005, 10:37 PM   #203
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It's time to do finish flooring.
My wife and I both like the look, feel and weight of the cork flooring best so far. I just spent some time searching the forums for information, but most of it is vague, or a few years old.
My plan is to use floating cork floor planks, since my sub-floor is a multi piece plywood floor.
Any pros or cons?
Any long term experience with cork in Airstreams?
I would appreciate sources, pricing information, personal experiences etc.
My trailer is still empty, I plan on covering most of the floor with the finish flooring ( cork?) and then build the furnishings to sit on top of it. Should be much easier than cutting in all the edges and corners.
With more input from the forum I can stop obsessing over it, and get to work on it.
( btw. I tried to start a new thread with this question.....no go)
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Old 06-12-2005, 10:57 PM   #204
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Greetings Uwe!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
They are 1000lbs, I'm afraid. When towing my Tradewind, the 750lb bars were very stressed, so I figured the 1000lbbars might be ok for this one. I anticipate similar weights on this dolled up Overlander.
I am willing to buy or trade for lighter bars if necessary. The deal was just to good to pass up.
I would be a bit cautious with the heavy bars on your Overlander. When I purchased mine in '95, the Draw-Tite hitch shop that setup my Reese Strait-Line hitch insisted upon 1,000 pound weight distribution bars -- the first comment from the Reese specialist who inspected the setup at my first International Rally was that I was way over-hitched -- switched to 800 pound bars (750 pound would have been better for my stiffly sprung K2500 Suburban, but weren't available at that time). The 800 pound weight distribution bars work beautifully when I tow with the Cadillac and its very soft boulevard-ride suspension. As it sits ready for an extended vacation, the gross weight of my Overlander is typically 6,100 pounds with 775 pounds on the hitch. Switching to the properly rated weight distribution bars made a tremendous difference in the towing comfort of the combination -- and the Dual Cam System functionality improved as well.

Good luck with your Overlander!

Kevin
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Old 06-13-2005, 01:22 AM   #205
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Hello Kevin,
I will take your advice and pay close attention to the way this hitch performs.
I am willing to buy the 750lb bars if that is what's required to make things work better.
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Old 06-13-2005, 01:43 AM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Hello Kevin,
I will take your advice and pay close attention to the way this hitch performs.
I am willing to buy the 750lb bars if that is what's required to make things work better.
How can you tell what weight bars you have? Mine came with the trailer.

Also, does that apply to my trailer as well. Since I tow with a 2500HD would I need to make sure I had 750lb bars? How would I know I need them?
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Old 06-13-2005, 09:01 AM   #207
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Greetings Tim!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
How can you tell what weight bars you have? Mine came with the trailer.

Also, does that apply to my trailer as well. Since I tow with a 2500HD would I need to make sure I had 750lb bars? How would I know I need them?
The key that the Reese representative taught me was that the heavier (more stiffly sprung) the tow vehicle, the closer the match needs to be between the rating of weight distribution bars and actual tongue weight -- this is particulary an issue when the Dual Cam system is utilized. My understanding is that the problem is more common with Vintage coaches that are towed with either 3/4-ton or one-ton tow vehicles -- particularly when existing weight distribution bars (that were included with the coach's purchase) are utilized -- I know that the weight distribution bars that were included with my Minuet are perfect with the Cadillac (the bars were original to the coach and its first tow vehicle, a 1978 Ford LTD), but MUCH too heavy for the Suburban (I utilize an old 1980s set of light weight 350 pound weight distribution bars with that combination). What I have learned with my setup is that if there isn't a small amount of deflection visbile in the weight distribution bars, the bars are likely too large for the combination.

I can't remember which thread had the posting (I believe from Inland-RV Andy) with the measurements for the various ratings of Reese weight distribution bars, but the measurements were posted some time back.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin
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Old 06-13-2005, 10:37 PM   #208
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"Uwe",
I noticed a "Black Water Tank" in one of your photos that is curved to fit into the corner of your trailer, is that something that can be purchased, was it stock? Also the waste piping in the photos looks like it's all going to be below the belly pan - is that true or am I reading the picture wrong?
I love this thread, thanks.
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:05 PM   #209
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Waste tanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR
"Uwe",
I noticed a "Black Water Tank" in one of your photos that is curved to fit into the corner of your trailer, is that something that can be purchased, was it stock? Also the waste piping in the photos looks like it's all going to be below the belly pan - is that true or am I reading the picture wrong?
I love this thread, thanks.
Mark
Hello Mark,

The black water tank is indeed a custom item. I made a cardboard template and a drawing of the tank, rolled everything up and sent it to the manufacturer. They made me a perfect black tank.
The grey tank and the fresh water tank are withing the frame rails, under the floor. I had those made by the same company.
The dump valve plumbing is quite compact in this installation, the Overlander frame allows for luxurious layouts....it's generous in size.
The dump valve plumbing is similar to a 2005 International model, using the same Valterra dual dump valve assembly.
I stole most of the ideas for the tank/plumbing system from my 1971 Tradewind, and from numerous visits to a new Airstream lot.
I then adapted the newer layouts to my 1963 Overlander frame.
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:34 PM   #210
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So is the waste piping shown in post #142 "below the belly" or is it between the floor and belly (sorry, just not getting it). And have you given out the name of the company that built your tanks - I couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Mark
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Old 06-13-2005, 11:41 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR
So is the waste piping shown in post #142 "below the belly" or is it between the floor and belly (sorry, just not getting it). And have you given out the name of the company that built your tanks - I couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Mark
The black tank is above the floor. The black tank exit is inside the cavity between the belly pan and the floor, the grey tank exits just below the belly pan/frame level. The entire dump valve is below the belly pan level.
I PM'd you for the tank mfg.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:29 PM   #212
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Progress Report

A/C rough in - Done!
Wiring - Done!
Rough layout - Done! ( looks like everything fits!)
Tank sensors - Done!
Reese Dual Cam HP install - Done!
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:37 PM   #213
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More pictures

These got bounced from the last post. All the pics got scrambled during the upload, so they're out of order. I guess software engineering still has along ways to go, sorta like me and my trailer.....
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Old 07-04-2005, 08:29 PM   #214
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More progress

The belly pan is all installed now. The part between the axles was a bear. Should have done that one before installing the axles. The bumper compartment might need another layer of aluminum for strength, but I ran out of steam before tackling that one.
The A/C water drain system is finishd also, by means of a 1/2in floor flange, and a flexible sprinkler riser. Will ake some pics soon and post them here.
I dry fitted the fridge, water heater and other appliances, and will take everything back out this week to prep for paint. I might be tackling the Zolatone process, although so far I am not sure which color to order. A paint place close by can rent the precise equipment needed to apply the stuff. Primer first, then we'll see. In the meantime, maple wood in all sizes and shapes is beginning to collect in my shop, ready to morph into an Airstream interior.
Setback: One of my well nuts ( level sensors) in the black tank seems to be loose, and won't get tight like the others. I ordered new ones and am hoping that it's just a messed up well nut, as opposed to a defect in the tank sidewall ( unlikely). Other than that, full speed ahead!
On a sad note, I had to cancel our trip to Colorado Springs this August. No way I can get the Overlander safely on the road by then. I do not want to turn my hobby into a stress situation.
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Old 07-05-2005, 01:07 PM   #215
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FWIW - I like Colonial White the best - nice light and airy color....... saw it last summer at the VAC rally in Co Springs......


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Old 07-05-2005, 09:30 PM   #216
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RE: Rocky Mountain Rally

Greetings uwe!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
On a sad note, I had to cancel our trip to Colorado Springs this August. No way I can get the Overlander safely on the road by then. I do not want to turn my hobby into a stress situation.
An option would be to attend sans-trailer as I did last year. The Garden of the Gods Campground has Camping Cabins on-site that can be rented -- since my problem was last-minute tow-vehicle issues, I wasn't able to reserve one of the cabins, but with lead time you may be able to obtain one. I enjoyed the Rally even though my coaches were both parked in Southern Illinois.

See: Garden of the Gods Campground -- Camping Cabins

Good luck with your restoration!

Kevin
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:58 PM   #217
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Thanks, Kevin. That's a great idea. I will look into this option.
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Old 07-18-2005, 09:22 PM   #218
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Uwe,

Great progress!

Could you give a little more information about how you attached the belly pan? I think I understand that you did the edges first - running from the c channel to the main frame beams, leaving the center for later.


When you put on these edge pieces did you first cleco directly to the main trailer length frame beams? And then when you put in the center pieces they were tucked under these edges and rivetted? This is what it looks like to me, but I could be reading the pics wrong. I wonder too about the front and back compound curve pieces - do you have one piece of aluminum that runs the entire width of the trailer in these spots?

As usual, thanks for your help,

Carlos Ferguson
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:13 PM   #219
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yeah, what he said . . . exactly.
I'm sure by the time I am thru with my 4th or 5th Airstream Project I'll know where I'm going from the start, but from "where I'm standing" right now (1st) I continue to have enough questions to keep me going in circles for the forseeable future . . . and yes, thanks for the help/guidance/opinions . . .
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Old 07-19-2005, 01:14 AM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Uwe,

Great progress!

Could you give a little more information about how you attached the belly pan? I think I understand that you did the edges first - running from the c channel to the main frame beams, leaving the center for later.
Carlos,
I used the old metal for a template. I cut as close as possible to the old pieces, and then clecoed it to the frame and outriggers. Then I bent the wrap up and cut slots to form the tabs to be bent over the c-channel. Some of the tabs needed to be trimmed before they would fit properly, being too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
When you put on these edge pieces did you first cleco directly to the main trailer length frame beams? And then when you put in the center pieces they were tucked under these edges and rivetted? This is what it looks like to me, but I could be reading the pics wrong. I wonder too about the front and back compound curve pieces - do you have one piece of aluminum that runs the entire width of the trailer in these spots?

As usual, thanks for your help,

Carlos Ferguson
You're right..I slid the center pieces under the wrapped pieces, not even trimming the edges. So the centers reached under the wrap, and to about the center of the outriggers. New holes were drilled and everything was clecoed, then riveted.
The compound curves were a challenge. I ended up massaging the metal with my palm to give it enough boe to eventually form into the desired shape. It also required strategic cutting of slots into the wrap to make it fit.
The old metal also had these slots cut. Hard to explain, not hard to do.
The wrap for all 4 corners are separate. The front is connected with the sheet that folds over the front frame plate, and the rear is connected by the sheet that eventually ended up forming the floor of the trunk inside the rear bumper. Btw., the wraps ended up not being perfectly smooth at teh sharpest turns, there are some minor creases, invisible under the trim, but they're there...did the best I could, I guess. The old metal was much softer, did not show creases at all.
Hope this helps..
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