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Old 06-17-2008, 09:07 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post
Second complaint: heat in bathroom is feeble

My bad: first time we left the FB window open for a couple of nights it seemed like there was quite a bit of resistance to closing. Yup - I pushed, it broke big time. Still have yet to determine what caused it.

Second Complaint: FB front window blind appears to be mounted correctly - upper and lower supports parallel to each other and top - but accordion fabric hangs at angle. Don't know why this wasn't fixed first time around.

As suggested elsewhere, it's going to take cutting a small arc out of the bottom of the propane cover. I'm not sure how the dealer is going to handle this request.

One I'll probably have to take care of myself: From the start I have no idea why A/S installed a 2.3 gpm shower nozzle - it's way too generous of a flow for boondocking. I called Delta and they don't seem to have an answer - no restrictor is available. You can’t just push a button and have the flow stop either – you have to turn it off at the handle.
One of those "Why'd They Do That?" things... why'd they make the black and gray water tanks equal in size

Bill
So you know you're not alone, little heat comes out in our bathroom either. I expect they don't direct enough air to the duct for that side of the trailer, and it's because all ducts are equal when they leave the furnace—no adjustments possible. There's no way to fine tune it. By the time the air is pushed around the tanks, little is left for the bathroom. On the other hand, it wasn't cold in our bathroom anyway.

I don't recall if that FB window is like the others, probably is. They are made to break—no metal reinforcement around them to protect them. If the C channels that serve as (cheap!) hinges on the top bind at all, a recipe for broken glass. I don't think it's your fault. A/S doesn't like to pay for window problems even though the problem is a design one. When I had a window problem, I called the factory and got them to pay for it, but they only did so as a "courtesy"—they just couldn't take responsibility for a badly adjusted lock.

The blinds in ours bow out in the middle a bit. I try to tighten them a little, but they still bow. I think it's the lightness of the fabric plus the fact the windows and wall are slightly curved.

I'm interested to see what the dealer says about the propane tank cover. I expect they'll refuse to deal with it. It's been that way for many years.

My shower head won't shut off completely at the head and the water gets very hot when I do shut it off as much as I can. The shower also droops and the screw to tighten it won't stay tight enough. Shower head droop is common I think. I'm thinking of getting a better shower head; I'm unimpressed with Delta products.

I wonder about the tank sizes too. Why not make the grey water tank bigger and the black water smaller. Makes sense to me.

Good luck with your dealer, Bill. I called today to set up an appointment for warranty work and was told they'd have to call me back. I said that wouldn't work for me (I was going to be changing the oil on our SUV, and otherwise unable to answer the phone) and the receptionist got snippy: "what do you want me to do?!" I said I didn't want her to do anything and got a short "Ok" or something of the same—you had to hear the tone of her voice. Given the bad things I've heard about the place I bought it, I'm wondering if I should go elseswhere since I already have to drive 240 miles to get to the dealer where I bought it. How's the SLC dealer anyone?

Gene
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:15 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post
In general there most of the curved windows are nearly impossible to close if it is a one person operation. Don't know what the dealer will recommend.
I have the EXACT same problem and no solution yet. Sometime it is a major problem, and other times I can get them closed, but I have had to resort to DUCT TAPE to hold the windows in the closed position while I when back in and latched.

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Something must be missing between the cable input jack and the TV - can't seem to ever program or get any cable stations when we've been in places with connections. Even tried substituting a different exterior cable wire.
OK, I am assuming that you have the Samsung 23". I figured this one out, but I don't think you'll be happy. Look on the back on the TV, there are two F connect ports, one labeled CABLE and one labeled ANT with the cable plugged into it. If you want to watch cable, you HAVE to move the cable from ANT to CABLE. Also make sure the antenna amp on the Wineguard plug is off (green light OFF).

Stupid, ain't it? You could wire in a splitter at the TV or in the wall and have a second cable coming to the TV. I added a quick connect end to the existing cable to ease the switch over.
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:16 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post

As described previously, we experienced a problem one day with intermittent hitch jack failure. That led to research on this forum that revealed the potential for the bottom of the propane tank cover to eventually cut into the wiring assembly coming from the jack and the main umbilical. We did find then that the wiring indeed had begun to show wear. We added a plastic sleeve a month ago but it is clear that that isn't going to be the final solution. As suggested elsewhere, it's going to take cutting a small arc out of the bottom of the propane cover. I'm not sure how the dealer is going to handle this request.

Bill
Hi Bill,

The solution my salesman came up with, rather than cutting the arc into the tank, was to raise the entire propane cover approx. 1/2 inch up by inserting a cut disc of hard plastic tubing between the works that holds the propane tanks in and the cover on. I know this would be better with a visual, I'll try to find the camera and then figure out how to post a pic. It works great, does not interfere with propane tank handling (it appears to be glued in place as we do not have to mess with it at all), and it keeps the tank suspended above the wires.

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Old 06-17-2008, 09:40 PM   #104
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Oh I had to chip in here, well after we brought our trailer home there were a few issues, mainly because we couldn't remember what we were told during the walkthrough!! Our smoke detector would sound off, and we cooked with F/F and door open, only to realize this week that there is a flap that needs to be opened on the outside of the trailer. We filled the toilet with a bucket on our first trip, tried in the driveway to fill the tank with the sensor still indicating empty, yup there is another door flap to fill the tank! Gary did some work to secure the cork board/mirror better using silicone (dealer recommended ) and some big pressue clamps. We still can't get the propane heat to start (again think that is from us not having paid attention) and unfortunately the a/c interior cover cracked, with the fan making obvious rub noises (to do it over again I would forgo the a/c and get a second F/F, haven't found a camp spot with electric anyway). Gary is majorly bugged by the door being off, but at least we can close it (couldn't when we picked it up initially). What I'm getting at is that we are overall pleased with just a few glitches that need to be worked out, too bad vancouver is soooooo farrrrrr away, it could be all taken care of so easily.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:22 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by Westfalia View Post

OK, I am assuming that you have the Samsung 23". I figured this one out, but I don't think you'll be happy. Look on the back on the TV, there are two F connect ports, one labeled CABLE and one labeled ANT with the cable plugged into it. If you want to watch cable, you HAVE to move the cable from ANT to CABLE. Also make sure the antenna amp on the Wineguard plug is off (green light OFF).

Stupid, ain't it? You could wire in a splitter at the TV or in the wall and have a second cable coming to the TV. I added a quick connect end to the existing cable to ease the switch over.
I bought a splitter and two really short coaxial cables, but haven't hooked them up yet. If you go this route, make sure you get cables with the right male and female ends. Another TV issue—unlocking the lock on the object that holds it to the wall is difficult. We're supposed to pull a cloth cordlike thing to unlock the latch—that might work if the cordlike thing is threaded through properly. Otherwise, I have to release the latch with fingers too big for the space behind the TV. One time after driving half a day I found the latch released—I don't know if I didn't lock it sufficiently (slam the TV backward seems to be necessary—good for the TV) or it let go on its own. I also forget to turn off the antenna booster because (a) it's hard to see because of where it's mounted (out of sight, our of mind), (b) declining memory (your choice).

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Old 06-18-2008, 01:09 PM   #106
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As I read through this thread I'm seeing that some of my issues echo many of the others that have arisen in the last year.

Our unit.... 2008 28 ft. Safari SE

D.O.B.... 5/7/08

Problems...

***Factory installed solar panels were never hooked up. Panels were mounted and wiring was never connected. It was just coiled and tucked under one of the units.

***Sub woofer was wired into the ceiling light switch. Turn on the ceiling lights and instant increase in bass! What's up with that?

***The dealer fixed the sub woofer so it comes on with the head unit, but when I play a DVD it sounds like a cat purring - a BIG cat!

***Refrigerator doesn't cool well on propane - works great on shore power.

They installed the crappy plastic lights above the bed rather than the swivel reading lights that have been in earlier '08 units. After doing a dance on his desk and singing "Blinded by the Light", the dealer agreed to change them out.

***The outside patio light is bright enough to perform surgery under. How about a 2 stage light - seductive and surgery?

***Door alignment is poor and deadbolt wouldn't latch.

***A couple of rivets have come out in the interior.

***There is so much caulk (especially on the roof) that I called my broker and immediately bought stock in SIKA

***No signs of water or leaking - but then again, I may never see any leaks. After all, this is New Mexico!

***Rivets look fine

***Kitchen design is a C+ at best. It's the largest of the Safari series and you can't get both a microwave and gas oven like you can on the 23', 25' and 27'

We've only been out once so far. We're taking it out twice in July. We'll see what develops on those trips and I'll report back in.

Jim
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:44 PM   #107
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Deadbolt

"***Door alignment is poor and deadbolt wouldn't latch."

Jim, I had the same problem and thought it was the door alignment. But I took the deadbolt apart (don't drop anything!) and put some grease or oil (can't remember which) on the internal parts. Now it works fine. A quickie fix might be to spray WD40 alongside the deadbolt into the door instead of taking it apart; can't assure it would work, but it's worth a try for a temporary fix. Why they didn't they put grease on it, I don't know—maybe I do, carelessness. Also the door has to be firmly closed for the parts to align properly.

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Old 06-18-2008, 01:50 PM   #108
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"***Door alignment is poor and deadbolt wouldn't latch."

Jim, I had the same problem .....

Gene
Thanks Gene - I'll do that. I think I also need to adjust the strike plate too.
Jim
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Old 06-18-2008, 02:08 PM   #109
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I finally made up a list for warranty work. I've yet to make an appointment. A lot of this will sound familiar.

1. Badly installed rivets—creased across the rivets and/or a half moon in the body panel outside the rivet. Most is on the door window. Maybe 50 rivets in all, but I haven't counted them nor do I think they will do anything about it.

2. Propane regulator—I'm unsure the red/green warning of little or no gas is accurate.

3. Stove hood fan door. One of the cheesy little locking things came off, I got it back on. I expect this will happen again.

4. Shower head sag.

5. Shower won't completely turn off at shower head and the water coming out when mostly turned off gets near scalding.

6. Furnace—some very slight gas smell at exterior vent; can't find leak and assume it's deep inside.

7. Gouge in vinyl floor.

8. Replacement roadside window over "sofa" doesn't open or close easily—C channel not properly aligned.

9. Exterior compartment door—the two wires that hold it level both broke off the door when I was trying to reach something inside. It's impossible not to put pressure on the door when reaching way inside unless you're very small or have arms two yards long; the wires are connected to the door in an ineffective manner.

10. Jack hot wire insulation wearing off under propane cover; wires should be rerouted.

11. Access panel under refrigerator binds and makes water lines behind it impossible to access.

12. Water pump filter is extremely difficult to reach and clean.

13. Task (swivel) light over dinette (street side) works intermittently.

Except for the window and gas leak issues, I guess I doing pretty well, though as Toyota owner, I've come to expect near perfection.

Gene
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Old 06-18-2008, 03:37 PM   #110
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Jack wiring

I am thinking of drilling a hole in the top of the coupler behind the jack to run the wire through. I think a 1/4" hole with a rubber grommet would work. I don't know if there is enough room though. I need to look more closely at this Saturday when I have access to the trailer. Right now I have added some "padding" to the insulation of the wire to try and protect it some, but since this wire is always hot, I still don't feel good about it....

Thoughts?
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Old 06-18-2008, 04:22 PM   #111
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Jack wire redux

Wayner,

I think the hole would have to be bigger and the bigger the more the assembly is weakened. I'm unsure what you mean by "coupler", but if it's part of the tongue that's pretty thick and hard steel to drill a big hole through. I used a metal pipe clamp over the jack wire and the umbilical, wrapped them in a lot of electrical tape, and screwed the clamp to the tongue under the propane cover (small holes). Works for the present, but movement will eventually wear through the insulation. The best thing is to re-route them and hang the wires from underneath and secure them with well cushioned clamps. I'll see if the dealer will do it under warranty, but I doubt it. There's another thread with a variety of solutions, the most common of which is the "mousehole" in the propane tank cover.

Gene
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:30 PM   #112
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I finally made up a list for warranty work. I've yet to make an appointment. A lot of this will sound familiar....

2. Propane regulator—I'm unsure the red/green warning of little or no gas is accurate. ...Gene
Is the systems status panel supposed to monitor propane levels? Mine doesn't. It just monitors water - fresh, grey, black and battery level. Propane is indicated on the panel but nothing lights up.
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:48 PM   #113
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It's the thing next to the regulator that goes up and down according to the gas pressure in the selected propane bottle I'm talking about.

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Old 06-18-2008, 11:15 PM   #114
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Is the systems status panel supposed to monitor propane levels? Mine doesn't. It just monitors water - fresh, grey, black and battery level. Propane is indicated on the panel but nothing lights up.
I think that only the Classics come with the tanks with the monitors in them. Even though the status panel has the ability, you'd need different tanks and additional wiring, from what I understand.

There seem to be a few features that Airstream will only provide in the Classic line. Another one is gas/electric water heater.
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Old 06-19-2008, 05:12 AM   #115
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Cool Problem Fixes???

Found out a couple of things that might help those with problems with door alignment and TV latch. Door alignment is affected by how tightly you screw down the stabilizer jacks. I found my door difficult to latch the last time I set up in camp, so when I got to dealer in Las Vegas, asked about it. There is no adjustment in door other than in the post on the door frame. But screwing the stabilizer jacks down too far will cause the trailer to flex and the door to become difficult to close. A slightly gentler approach to the stabilizers fixed that issue. Not perfect, but at least better.
The TV latch issue for me was a quick fix. Simply push the swivel bracket fully back when attaching the TV makes the latch easier to lock. Note I said nothing about getting the bloody thing to unlatch. Haven't figured that one out!
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:52 AM   #116
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I think that only the Classics come with the tanks with the monitors in them. Even though the status panel has the ability, you'd need different tanks and additional wiring, from what I understand.

There seem to be a few features that Airstream will only provide in the Classic line. Another one is gas/electric water heater.
Darn... I'd love to be able to monitor propane levels more accurately than letting one tank go empty then switching to the other - which at least lets me know that I'm half full. the Gas/electric water cooler would be cool too.

The dual fuel water tank could add a good bit of expense, but to add the propane to the monitoring system wouldn't cost that much more. On a $70K unit a few more dollars for propane tank level monitoring wouldn't even be noticed.

But... I'll for go these features before I give up the contemporary interior styling of the Safari. The classic is too traditional for my tastes.
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Old 06-19-2008, 09:48 AM   #117
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Had a nice long post all ready to submit that thanked those of you who wrote about my "Almost 2 Month Shakedown" post but it seemed that the internet connection timed out. Oh well.

Thanks Westfalia & Gene for the TV cable fix (& up I got small fingers and have trouble getting the TV latch to release); Roamin Cat for suggesting a solution for where to propane tank rubs the electrical wires and the many others who make this a very useful forum

Bill
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:13 AM   #118
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Had a nice long post all ready to submit that thanked those of you who wrote about my "Almost 2 Month Shakedown" post but it seemed that the internet connection timed out. Oh well.....................

Bill
Bill, try composing your replies in a text editor such as work or notepad and then paste it into the reply form when ready to post. This way you can spend as much time writing without fear of time outs.
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Old 06-19-2008, 10:38 AM   #119
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Bill, try composing your replies in a text editor such as work or notepad and then paste it into the reply form when ready to post. This way you can spend as much time writing without fear of time outs.
One other way I used to use when we had the first post bug, is to prior to submitting the post use the edit function of your browser and highlight and copy your future post. That way if it times out or fails, just get back to the thread and you can paste the message back into the posting window.

I can tell you that doing it like that saved me a lot of grief over time.

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Old 06-20-2008, 11:37 AM   #120
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Wink Propane 'Gage'

The only way you find out that you are out of propane in one of the two bottles on the 19' Ocean Breeze is by running out. One indication is that the light on the water heater will remain on. Then, opening the cover of the propane tanks, you will discover the green band on the gage has moved down and a red will show. Not exactly a big deal, as you simply swivel the handle to turn off the old tank and to turn on the new one, but not handy if you are in an area in winter. Nothing shows on the status panel inside the trailer. You can then independently remove the empty tank and get it refilled.
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