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Old 11-30-2005, 10:47 AM   #241
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Tom, here's my thoughts on some of your issues.

“Brush Marks” in clearcoat exterior finish.

We see some on ours also dependent upon how the sun hits the trailer. Walbernizing does minimize them. I also know that some of these marks are created when I dry the trailer after washing.

3. Entry Door requires excessive “slamming” in order to get latched.

When does this occur. Is it when you are set up and the stabilizer jacks are down? As Eric noted earlier, too much pressure on the jacks will cause this. Also putting out the slide out without putting the stabilizer jacks down first will cause torquing of the frame. My dealer told me rule #1. Do not move the slide out without the stabilizing jacks being down first.

4. Windows difficult to open. Requires a second person going outside and prying on the window while the other person works the opening mechanism.

This is common and requires you to provide some type of lubrication to the seals which the glass sits against. I use silicone applied with a rag to lube the seals. That takes care of most of the problems. The more frequently you use the windows and lube them the less you will have this problem. I guarantee you I will have to unstick them in the spring after them being closed all winter.


B. Excessive Power sometimes required to run appliances such as microwave, coffee maker, ceramic space heater, etc.

I'm assuming you are blowing the breaker. Mine blows when the refrigerator, air conditioner, microwave, and electric water heater element are all active at the same time. In most cases its the campground breaker. If you add it's more than 30 amps. Now you start adding in coffee makers, space heaters etc. it's just more load.
  • Water Pump cycles-on momentarily intermittently, is very noisy at times, and pumps in “spurts” rather than the normal steady stream at times.
Mine cycles occasionally. Usually at night maybe once an hour or two, and under conditions of dropping outside temperatures. I've pretty much considered it a situation where the water pressure drops a little due to the water contracting as it cools down. Supposedly there is an adjustment on the pump to minimize this.
  • When slide out is retracted after a rain, water runs off of slide onto carpet.
Yep under driving rain conditions and how your trailer is leveled, it is possible for water to collect over the slide out. It only has happened a couple of times with me. I now check the slide out top prior to retracting after rainstorms. It only take a second and I carry a squeegee on a stick and can pull any water off the top. It usually isn't much but the first time it happens its a surprise. In most cases the awing that goes over the slide out during its extension keeps that area dry.
Reported on 3/18, 5/26, 6/13, 8/22, 9/5, and 10/16/2005.

Systems Monitor problems

I replaced mine due to a burnt out LED. Both panels have worked well although I think some folks have different opinions as to what levels the lights should turn on at. That's why manual configuration is possible.

Several Drawers difficult to open.

Probably those are the ones that stay closed when you travel?

  • Interior mirrors do not stay secure in mountings.
The mirror that is on the cabinet wall by the slide out came loose during a spring trip. The top of the mirror is held by double sticky tape against the wall. I bought some tape and reapplied it to the top of the mirror. Mirror is holding fine at this time, but I can see where this might be something that might not be a permanent fix.

Water seeps onto floor from either under or around shower stall.

Took 3 trips for my dealer to fix this. Probably the most common problem on new trailers. I never got this fixed to my satisfaction on my previous Airstream.

Wood security “latch block” on rear side of slide out does not seat properly.

Not sure what you mean here. The block magnetically attaches to the locking lever on the slide out. When the lever is extended the lever presses the block against the wall thus keeping the slide from extending. Is the block not contacting the wall properly?
  • Refrigerator flame will not stay lit when traveling.
Was a problem on my '01 Safari. Airstream and Dometic have been going around on this for years. I know my dealer built a baffle that shielded the refrigerator unit which fixed my problem We have a picture in the '01 Safari forum of this baffle. The other fix is the furnace filter. I have no problem on my current unit.
  • Entry Door Deadbolt malfunctioned in the “locked” position such that no access could be gained into trailer.
I'm not sure whether this is when you are in camping mode or when traveling. I had some stickiness where I couldn't get the deadbolt locked but it ended up that the lock needed some lube. No problem since I have performed this work.
  • Slide out rubber weather seal came loose.
Be sure to lube those gaskets with silicone. I do this at least twice a year (inside and out) to keep them flexible.
  • Electric Tonque Jack inoperative.
Had multiple problems with this on my new '01 Safari. Dealer replaced jack and eventually reported the the original jack had an internal short.
  • Day/Night Blinds would not raise/lower properly.
I don't find these the easiest to use either. The string broke on one set in the slide out this fall. The dealer restrung it under warranty. I lot has to do where the string is secured to the trailer wall. I think the one that broke was too far to the side of the blind.
  • Drawers on either side of bed would not stay closed when traveling.
Mine have popped open occasionally. I'm not sure if it was because I wasn't careful in closing them. I've heard that some of the latches used were not of the proper strength to resist the forces that occur during towing.

My other complaint is the inability to keep the kitchen drawers closed during travel. The dealer has worked on this twice. When I brought it to him last month I complained again. He asked me to show me how I close the drawers. I just pushed them closed. He noted that I needed to lift the drawer and then push it closed. By just pushing it closed I was bending down the tabs in the front of the rails that provide the stop to keep the drawers closed during travel. I can see that but I don't like this method for securing drawers. It's way too prone for failure. I miss my Safari doors which had a positive lock on them.

There is no doubt you have had more than your share of issues and probably may be worth your while to make the trip to JC and get those things resolved that the dealer can't seem to get right. Eric gave you some good advice there.

Jack
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:53 PM   #242
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Air,
Thanks for your response regarding my issues with my 2005 30'SO Classic.

Yes, I may have to take the trailer to JC for repairs, as some of the problems still exist after 4 or 5 attempts at repairs by the Dealer. However, since I live in Utah, this isn't a short trip.

Yes, my patience and confidence in airstreams has been tested with this unit! I have had a number of RV's over the years, including a couple of older model airstreams, several SOB trailers, and two diesel pushers - the last being a 10-year-old Monaco Dynasty. This new airstream has given far more problems than any of the others.

Yes, I have the "lemon law" booklet from airstream. However, Utah has very weak lemon laws (none on RV's effectively), so I will have to approach the legal remedy from other aspects if I decide to pursue that route.

Thanks again,
Tom
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Old 11-30-2005, 05:37 PM   #243
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Eric and Jack,
Thanks for your replys. As I mentioned to Air, although a trip to JC from Utah is not easy, it may very well be worthwhile.

My "brush marks" appear to be similar to yours, in that they don't show alot until the sun is reflecting on the sides. Mine were there even before I washed the trailer for the first time, and look as though someone cleaned the surfaces with a stiff-bristle brush.

My entry door is hard to close all the time. I am an engineer, so I know about the effects of torquing the frame. Yes, it is important to have the front stabilizers down before operating the slideout. My stabilizer jack problem was resolved several months ago, but still have door problem.

My excessive power to run appliances problem occured while boondocking, using my Honda 2000i generators for power. Normally, I can even run the microwave on one generator while having the LCD TV and coffee maker on. On several occasions, the microwave by itself would not power up on one generator, and would barely operate using both generators in parallel.

One of my wood "latch blocks" contacts the wall at an angle, instead of laying flat against the wall as it should.

My bedroom drawers would not stay closed problem was solved satisfactorily with the installation of a second latch on each. The kitchen drawers generally stay closed as long as we close them completely, then push down on the drawer handle.

Thanks for the comments regarding the silicone around the windows and gaskets. I'll do that.

My mirror insecurity problem has to do with the mirrors mounted in the cabinet and closet doors. The little metal tabs used to hold them in place aren't much thicker than and aluminum beer can. As a result, they bend out enough for the mirror to become loose, just from opening and closing the doors and travel vibration. I had airstream send me extra tabs, so will try "doubling" the tabs for more strength.

Thanks and Best Regards,
Tom
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:05 PM   #244
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tom
i too had the really thin mirror/insert tabs. the factory replaced mine with a thicker style that had a more specific formed bend so they fit closer. no problems since. the replacements are z shaped, much stiffer and do not move.

i don't think using extras of the flimsy version will help long term. get the thicker ones. i would have done this repair myself but given i was in ohio i willingly let them do the 50-60 of these in the front and rear.

all of my windows had spray glue on the insides.....i think when they installed the wall covering they just sprayed everywhere and no one cleaned the windows afterward.....couldn't really see it on screended windows till they were opened. anyway i spent 8-10 hours doing glue removal from all the inside window surfaces....while i was pissed about this i just kept thinking "this gives me time to really inspect the windows/frames closely".

the factory has a specific silicon spray.....i think it's dow slip1cone....or maybe dupont...anyway most any non petrol 100% silicon spray applied to the gaskets will work.

was your trailer built during the shift to higher rated axles? that's the only reason i can think they would apply the wrong id plate.

a far more dangerous mislabel happened on mine.....they applied a "220 volt only" label to my shore power plug site!!!


cheers
2air'
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:01 AM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
tom
i too had the really thin mirror/insert tabs. the factory replaced mine with a thicker style that had a more specific formed bend so they fit closer. no problems since. the replacements are z shaped, much stiffer and do not move.

i don't think using extras of the flimsy version will help long term. get the thicker ones. i would have done this repair myself but given i was in ohio i willingly let them do the 50-60 of these in the front and rear.

all of my windows had spray glue on the insides.....i think when they installed the wall covering they just sprayed everywhere and no one cleaned the windows afterward.....couldn't really see it on screended windows till they were opened. anyway i spent 8-10 hours doing glue removal from all the inside window surfaces....while i was pissed about this i just kept thinking "this gives me time to really inspect the windows/frames closely".

the factory has a specific silicon spray.....i think it's dow slip1cone....or maybe dupont...anyway most any non petrol 100% silicon spray applied to the gaskets will work.

was your trailer built during the shift to higher rated axles? that's the only reason i can think they would apply the wrong id plate.

a far more dangerous mislabel happened on mine.....they applied a "220 volt only" label to my shore power plug site!!!


cheers
2air'
Air,
Thanks for the input on the mirror tabs and the silicone spray.
Yes, my unit was built in Jan/Feb 2005, which was shortly after the change to the heavier axles. The incorrect plate showed a 10,000 GVWR instead of 10,300 as it should for the 30'SO Classic, so it wasn't a real critical error.
Regards,
Tom
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:03 PM   #246
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For those with 2005 AS, would you buy the 7 year warranty? This is a really long thread and I have just scanned random posts. Sounds like most of the problems were on the minor side.

I have a 2005 25ft International and the 1 year warranty is about to expire. A 7 year warranty has been offered for $1155. So far, I have had no problems with it. Longest trip has been about 2000 miles. Everything seems to work well. Problems:

1) some interior rivets keep popping out but I can drill and replace those easily myself. Probably due to flexing and settling in according to the dealer.

2) Had problem with faulty battery that was replaced under warranty

3) Flimsy privacy screen. Will be damaged in time since we have 2 small children

Those have really been the only problems I can recall. Have not used the shower yet though. Have great dealer service. Should I buy the 7 year warranty?
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:49 PM   #247
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Extended Warranty

Goldwing70,
Seems that you have been very fortunate to have very few problems with your 2005 unit. You mentioned that your one-year warranty is almost up. If you bought the unit new, you should have a two-year factory warranty. You may want to verify this, however.

In my case, I am certainly hoping that the warranty is a full two-years, in that I have not been so fortunate. I have owned my unit for 11 months now, during which time it has been in repair for 163 days (5.5 months), which is where it still sets. Its current visit has been ongoing since Nov. 3, 2005. There is no question regarding my decision on an extended warranty, assuming I still own the unit when that time comes!

Best Regards,
Tom
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:51 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldwing70
For those with 2005 AS, would you buy the 7 year warranty? This is a really long thread and I have just scanned random posts. Sounds like most of the problems were on the minor side.

I have a 2005 25ft International and the 1 year warranty is about to expire. A 7 year warranty has been offered for $1155. Should I buy the 7 year warranty?
hi goldwing and others.....

pretty sure the factory coverage is 2 years on the safaris, just like the classics...

anyway the question of an extended warranty/service policy is important......

do you have any details about the warranty?

from who, what's covered, or more importantly what ISN'T covered?

who can do the work? is there a co pay?

do you have copy of it?

tell us more....

cheers
2air'
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:41 PM   #249
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Unit was purchased new. I don't recall how long the factory warranty was. My warranty papers must be in the trailer since I can't find them at home. Won't be out to visit the RV for another 2 weeks or so. I received a letter from the dealer today stating that I had a 1 year warranty with an offer for 7 year extension. I assumed there was some kind of standard AS extended policy.

If this is a bumper to bumper kind of warranty extension, I think $1155 for 7 years is very tempting. On the other hand, I feel I could probably fix most things myself except for the appliances. I'll have to check those wheel bearings for grease this winter when I get it out of storage. I'll have to call the dealer tomorrow. Thanks for the quick responses!
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:39 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldwing70
Unit was purchased new. I don't recall how long the factory warranty was. I received a letter from the dealer today stating that I had a 1 year warranty with an offer for 7 year extension. I assumed there was some kind of standard AS extended policy.
Since you purchased new, your warranty from Airstream is 2 years. I don't think a lot of your dealer sending you incorrect information. For all intents he is offering you 6 years since you still have another year left in the warranty.

Like anything else you throw the dice. Dealers don't offer warranties unless they are on the winning side. As noted earlier, what does the warranty cover?

There is always the person who will win and come out ahead, while 10 others will never need it.

Jack
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Old 02-04-2006, 07:46 AM   #251
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Thanks for the input. I'll definitely have to verify the warranty terms. I'll probably pass on the extended warranty offer.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:22 AM   #252
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2005 22'ccd

Picked up our new 22' in Dec. 2005. Most apparent problems are F&F. Vertical seams in the head have opened in the wall between fiberglass and Laminate? There is a seam in the shower pan with a 1/4 gap between the pan and wall. Sealant and caulking are everywhere. I don't know why assemblers go crazy when they get an air powered caulking tool in their hands! I fixed the long vertical seam using a vinyl venetion blind slat cut in half(about 3/4" wide), masked off the area, glued it on with white 3M boat goop. !3 years living on a sailboat taught me a lot! Just filled the gap with same stuff.
All the trim on the edges of the overhead cabinets were cut too short and have gaps in the butt joints. Some things just don't fit as well as they should. If these "craftsmen would just take their time and do it right. What a novel idea!!
When it warms up, we shall head out and make sure all works as it should.
Cheers, Jeff
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:59 AM   #253
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In my opinion airstream should subcontract ALL of their cabniet and furniture work. The Hickory cabinets are built by a subcontractor and the fit and finish on the 34 Limited that I inspected at the factory were excellent. If the laminate cabinets start out with the flaws that have been described on the forum numerous times, what are they going to look like in a couple of years with use? It's what I call the tail light warranty. It"s warranted until they can't see your tail lights anymore.
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Old 07-06-2006, 04:20 PM   #254
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2005 Safari 30' BH

Hello streamers wanted to post a quality update. We have a 2005 Safari 30' BH LS mfg date 09/04 with all options except solar. So far about 2000 miles traveled and 10 nights camping. I took the AS into my local dealer this morning to have several fit and finish issues addressed. Below is the list. A couple of these items are a little strange curious about others experiences
Ø Interior Trim pealing and Floor Laminate pealing around toilet and Squeak in floor in front of refrigerator
Ø Exterior Trim- behind driver rear wheel near sewer
Ø Black Tank Sensor- reads full on one flush
Ø Shower Door Leak lower right near toilet

Ø BOTH SINKS leak Kitchen from the sink drain the curved plumbing is not fasten there is no seal so water leaks. Bathroom also leaks in the same place.

Ø Furnace doesn’t fire or turn on.
Ø 2 way radios are dead (they work with regular batteries) but don’t know if the charger is functional I believe it is the rechargeable batteries dead.
Ø Brown dust material enters above the dinette just to the right of the speaker selector it has left a stain. Dust and wood fiber material appear on the dinette seats after every tow. What is it? (This one stumps me)
Ø Window to the right of door doesn’t seal properly
Ø Dinette window screen is torn
Ø Running Lights front and back some have moisture in them and the hardware is rusting.
Ø Patio light cast iron surround is showing rust pits.
Ø Adjust screen door (from the outside) top right corner does not close properly.
Ø Adjust door so it is not so difficult to open or close without slamming.
Ø Balance wheels
Ø Check brakes
Ø Check tires some appear to have a slight bulge
Ø Check Battery test and what is the proper water level?
Ø Outdoor speakers- manual indicates there is a connector for hooking up the speaker please advise
Ø Rubber flange around the sewer water outlet is loose and not sealed.


That’s it. Love my Airstream, but as a Headhunter that specializes in placing manufacturing executives it maybe time to place a call to Robert Wheeler with a new candidate for Director of Quality.
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Old 07-06-2006, 04:51 PM   #255
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Which dealer did you take it to?
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Old 07-06-2006, 04:56 PM   #256
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Quote:
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AZstramin
Which dealer did you take it to?
Dillon RV do you have service experience with them?
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:02 PM   #257
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Some things may be normal

I find that the plumbing under the sinks need retightening about every 6 months.The threaded pipe junctions seem to back off, either with temperature changes or vibration. Since we use the trailer all year here, I check the joints spring and fall and hand tighten them.

Normal tires have a very slight bulge in the sidewalls where the plies are overlapped. You may be seeing that.

I have a slight floor squeak, but decided that the fix is probably worse than the problem. I seldom notice the squeak.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:07 PM   #258
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By the way

Did you check the circuit breaker/switch in the furnace? Mine was delivered with the switch turned off. Probably had been installed with the switch in that condition and never checked. Took just a few seconds to fix the problem.
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Old 07-06-2006, 05:29 PM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
I find that the plumbing under the sinks need retightening about every 6 months.The threaded pipe junctions seem to back off, either with temperature changes or vibration. Since we use the trailer all year here, I check the joints spring and fall and hand tighten them.

Normal tires have a very slight bulge in the sidewalls where the plies are overlapped. You may be seeing that.

I have a slight floor squeak, but decided that the fix is probably worse than the problem. I seldom notice the squeak.
Hey John,
The squeak doesn't really bother me its a little character as long as it doesn’t leak.. I think it is funny that it is in front of the fridge.. can't sneak a midnight snack without the trailer letting everyone know
The plumbing issue was the one that has me stewed. There is nothing to tighten on to spin the threaded tightner (is that a word) and nothing.... You can grab the U trap pipe and pull and it slides up and down try to tighten it a it does nothing. Somebody was sleeping on the line that day.
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Old 07-06-2006, 06:40 PM   #260
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I too had a squeek in the floor in front of my refrigerator, and had concluded that it was intentionally put there by Airstream in order that I couldn't sneak a late night snack without waking up my wife.

Our squeek extended into the bathroom and was very annoying.

When we had our trailer back to Jackson Center for service a couple months ago I asked them to fix the floor squeek when they were replacing our vinyl that had been significantly damaged during our trailer's manufacture 2 years ago.

The factory service technician who worked on our trailer informed us that 2 sheets of plywood adjoined in this area, and the side of one sheet had not been bolted or screwed into the frame where it adjoined the other. He put some screws in, and most of our squeek is now gone.

And, if you are asked to recruit for that Airstream
quality control position, I'd like to apply. Obviously, they don't require much to qualify for the position, so I ought to meet their present requirements.

John
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