1983 - Excella 500
I COULDN'T FIND A THREAD ON 1981 (OR 1983) --- OR ANYTHING ON AN EXCELLA 500.
so, I've startethD THis one under 1983 Excella 500.
I AM THE FIRST, i GUESS.
I NEED HELP.
If anyone's reading this thread...I've decided to post again the new info I've found.
The "ignitor" problem was part of my furnace...which happens to be a "Suburban" 30btu furnace.
(I'LL POST THIS IN AS MANY OTHER THREAD AS I CAN FIND THAT APPLIES.)
Re: My Suburban furnace.
My furnace won't stay lit.
As is usual, when it rains it pours. I also need a new Starter on my car...and one of my sewing machines (my business) needs $180 in repairs & overhaul. (SEE WHAT I MEAN?)
My furnace is not working. What happens is this:
It starts up (ignites) and 10 to 30 seconds later, it dies. STOP!
It has been ascertained that it is due to the main "Mother Board" ("Circuit Board")...
I went to my friendly local RV dealer, and they gave me parts numbers...and costs...yikes!!!!
Then I called our Forum friend, Andy, who told me basically that parts obtained cheaper are not always the best (who knew?). (In automobile 'speak' we call it "AFTER-MARKET PARTS')
....Usually not a good deal. Like Andy said, you can save a few bucks at the get-go---by buying an 'off-brand', but later be forced to spend BEAUCEAUX bucks later because the cheaper one didn't properly fit/work right with the 'stock parts'. (Should be no surprise.)
(THIS IS WELL KNOWN IN THE AUTO INDUSTRY)
I also got good advice from Andy, that taking the furnace apart (the "S" curve---between the fan and the combustion chamber---and giving it a little shake as it's removed (gently) can shake out close to a whole CUP of rust &/or other CR___ that's gotten into the chamber...which can reduce the efficiency of the furnace (to have the combustion chamber's volume so reduced). He also suggests I do this prior to installing a new circuit board & he says that my '83 (shhhhhhhhh! it's 'really' an '81..right?) is really worth repairing,,,since the original parts & appliances are so well-made that they are worth keeping, rather than replacing.
So, here's what my plan is:
1. Get a space heater to keep Bear warm while the furnace is down.(*see below for question.);
2. Pull the furnace OUT ("S" curve first); the 'mother board' is already out; the 'ignitor plate (with elemments) is also out---and the gasket is being ordered and replaced (after the back of the plate has been thoroughly cleaned with 'gasoline');
3. Thoroughly clean the whole furnace...with gasoline & a toothbrush...and reassemble;
4. Replace the main "circuit board" (Mother Board);
5. Replace the Ignitor plate with new gasket;
6. Put the whole furnace back together and start up.
DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY OTHER 'WORDS OF WISDOM' TO IMPART TO ME??? (to
give me more advise....?)
DOES ANYONE HAVE A MAIN "SUBURBAN" CIRCUIT BOARD FOR SALE?? I'd actually rather buy a brand new one ($143.00 + shipping)...but I've heard of those who have either totalled their A/S, or are parting them out for one reason or another...and I'd purchase one that was a Suburban that was in good working order if the price was low enough.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ON A GOOD SPACE-HEATER TO PURCHASE? I DON'T MIND SPENDING A GOODLY AMOUNT ($70 to $100)...AS LONG AS IT'S ONE I CAN USE AGAIN AND AGAIN---TO SUPPLEMENT THE PROPANE. (I do want to buy a space heater that is ELECTRIC.)
I will apppreciate all advise
and will be very grateful for any offers to sell a 'second-hand' part mentioned above.