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03-06-2012, 10:14 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member 
1968 24' Tradewind
1973 27' Overlander
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
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moving AS for first time in 10 years
just purchased 1968 Tradewind that has not moved in many years.
live 150 miles away, and working on list of issues to address before i hook up. Tires bearings lights etc. any suggestions?
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03-06-2012, 10:32 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls
, South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,403
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Clear title?
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03-06-2012, 10:38 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member 
1986 Argosy
Dallas
, Tech-Sus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 62
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My '86 Argosy 32' has not been moved in 13 years. So I'm interested in this also for when I sell it.
Hmmm...
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03-07-2012, 02:42 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,944
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Tires, Brakes, Repack bearings, proper light and brake wiring. Keep bottles closed till checked as well as rubber gas lines and regulator. Bottom pan is well secured. Window clips are good. You do not want to loose one of those valuable curved windows on the road. Secure them with duct tape if in question. Have an expert go with you to help.
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03-07-2012, 02:59 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member 
Currently Looking...
Connellsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 152
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As mentioned, tires, bearings, brakes and lights are the areas to really watch. Personally, I'd pull all wheels to inspect and repack bearings before I went anywhere. Make sure tires are free of cracks and dry rot and hold air properly. I'd pull it a few miles then stop and check everything including tire pressures. Then, if everything checks out OK, stop a couple times along the way and give everything a quick look. Don't be in any hurry and don't be afraid to pull it slower than you normally would.
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03-07-2012, 05:18 AM
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#6
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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Check over the tongue and make sure there are no rust holes or cracks in it. The same with as much of the frame you can see. Make very sure the main door closes and stays latched.
Roof vents and a/c shroud may leave the trailer while you are towing. check all the access doors, they are tough to get replacements for.
__________________
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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03-07-2012, 05:47 AM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member 
1968 24' Tradewind
1973 27' Overlander
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 7
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Clear Title
good question, seller is representing deceased owner..... says he has title will see this weekend when i go back down.
sure i will need tires, most concerned about removing the lug nuts!
Best penetrating oil product suggestions?
thanks for any and all insight.
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03-07-2012, 07:05 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member 
Currently Looking...
Connellsville
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tenacosteve
good question, seller is representing deceased owner..... says he has title will see this weekend when i go back down.
sure i will need tires, most concerned about removing the lug nuts!
Best penetrating oil product suggestions?
thanks for any and all insight.
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I really like PB Blaster on really stubborn rusted stuff.
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03-07-2012, 10:15 AM
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#9
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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Hi Steve
Welcome to the forums.
150 miles is a long way to go with a trailer with doubtful running gear.
Realistically you will have to replace the axles some time very very soon because they are probably original and, if so, the rubber rods have failed by now. As such you would want to limit your investment of time and money in the existing bearings, brakes, and hubs.
You may very well have split rims which would also have to be replaced.
I would think that the best thing you can do is bring the trailer to the nearest welding shop that specializes in trailer work and have them install new axles, brakes, wheels, and tires. You can order the proper torsion axles from Inland RV and have them shipped to the shop in advance.
If the shop is nearby (20-30 miles or less) you could tow the trailer there at a reduced speed (20 mph) on the existing running gear, checking after every few miles for signs of impending failures. The risk of bearing failure goes up the further you go.
I wouldn't suggest going 150 miles without servicing the bearings and brakes. Getting pieces apart may be problematic. I have had to cut lug nuts with a torch on equipment that has been sitting outside without being moved for many years. It's hard to do that without damaging the lug studs. Applying excessive torque to a frozen lug is just as likely to spin the stud in the hub as it is to get the nut loose.
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