Caravel questions

[RM66caravel]

To my understanding the 120 and water are now run through the shell and as for the recharge line there are holes in the frame for this line and I will be using the flex plastic sleeve and grommets I picked up at harbor freight. I have been toying with the idea of recessing a panel behind the access door that way I can add a layer of protection and maintain the original look of the caravel. Only replacing the curb side panel (hardest of the two because of the door and awning) but will be done.
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

I found there was a channel for the floor board at the back, but no where else. The majority of the channel for the floor is a simple C channel that sits on the floor, no channel that the floor slides into until you get to the back. To make it interesting, the channel doesn't quite measure 3/4" high. Fun.

The water and 120V run through the shell on the Argosy. It is convenient to have all that at the rear. The layout of the Caravel black tank would make running the water and 120 lines a PITA but it makes storage of the land line out of the trailer easy. The access panel with its through the floor port is workable, but not the best solution IMHO.

[Jewel65]

I am adding a Furrion 30A inlet in the same hole under the Caravel as the plastic tube was. It will be a water tight connection with no additional holes drilled in the side. It will allow the cable to be stored anywhere I choose, inside or outside the trailer. I am also going to drill a smaller hole just behind the electrical for the plumbing and install a stainless fresh water inlet. Both will be under the trailer, so no connections showing on the side. I need to upload pictures when I get a chance.

[Argonaut20]

Pictures would be much appreciated.

[RM66caravel]

I only have 2 issues with installing things under the belly pan 1. Night time hookups in wet conditions and 2. Snags where on rare occasions the belly pan will rub a high dirt mound with rocks. By removing the through port on the bottom I am hoping to block one more entrance for unwanted guest and the panel behind the door will make for easy access. Just my thoughts.
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

Points well taken. Gotta think about it a bit.

[RM66caravel]

I have been looking for the picture that I know that I took to the piece I had bent to replace that piece in the back but have not located it yet it is 4.5 feet long angle aluminum .032 bent 1 3/4 inch high 4 inch wide which goes between the floor and frame then I coated the 4inch wide area with undercoat on the side that is on the frame. Hope that this helps a little.
Cliff

[RM66caravel]

Fridge scoop is going to be wood with a coat of resin on the inside. The lueon will hold the curve when wet and when it drys I will have the sides on to make it permanent . Hope it works out better than it sounds I have a friend that is a master carpenter and he wants to make it.
Cliff

[Argonaut20]

I got the floor in with some finish work to do like finishing the bolting up and replacing some of the channel.

Along the way I came up with some mysterious 'rivets' in the front. They don't oxidize like the regular rivets do. There are also some odd little patches of aluminum riveted in the front. All on the same side, all between the cap and the body panel. Anyone got ideas? Pictures below.

[Argonaut20]

Should have uploaded all at once!

[RM66caravel]

Looks to be a not so well planned leak repair using pop rivets the tabs are weird but it must have worked for them. I do not think that airstream would use pop rivets on the shell. Damn it looks good! My bucking buddy is just not schedule friendly so shell on not bucked yet. Keep it going you are helping my motivation! I am just wondering if I can teach my 7 year old granddaughter how to hold a bucking bar?
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Argonaut20]

The tabs look original with all the seam sealer still on them. We are not to the rivet bucking stage but my wife says she is willing to give it a try. I think I will drill out all those weird rivets and replace with bucked in rivets. That will be a good training ground for the really serious stuff. I don't mind Olympic rivets in non-stress areas, but I want the bucked in rivets where strength is important.

[Sheridan]

I had the same problem on my 65 Caravel. I noticed a dent on the street side front curve that joins the lower and upper compound cured panels together. After removing the interior panels I noticed the same little tabs that you described on the seam with the dent.

The factory cut one of the panels short, not allowing the upper and lower panels to overlap enough for a rivet to join them both together so they just riveted a little tab to hold one panel against the other. It's a lazy, cheap fix by the factory and I was really disappointed to see it.

My fix was to drill out all of the rivets from one rib to the next rib and re-rivet a 1/16th inch thick bar over the seam and then seal it up. No more dent, very stiff and solid seam.

[Argonaut20]

Thanks, Sheridan. It does look like the panels are a bit shy of a good overlap. I like your fix idea.

[Argonaut20]

Okay, most of the belly pan is in and my wife and I started bucking rivets on the ends. The two sides are going to need replacement so I am getting the ends done before starting the side removal. I also patched the shower - wash stand - toilet porch where the toilet had broken the fiberglass. It looks like I can put a 3/4" board between the black tank and the fiberglass so the closet flange has something to attach to and the weight of the toilet (and occupant) don't go directly onto the black tank. Trial fits are in the future for that one.

One last question for now: does anyone have a lead on a bucking bar narrow enough to fit into the door frame so the rivets there can be bucked? The curbside panel needs replacement which means the door is part of the riveting job. I definitely do not want olympic rivets into the door frame if I can figure out a way to use bucked rivets.

[RM66caravel]

Sounds unusual but the back end of a chisel (blunt) or flat stock will work with aluminum buck rivets had the same issue with a different project and yes I have to replace that panel also but gonna buy the help of a teen in the subdivision. Will be using a large Allen wrench I found for a bucking bar in the tight spots already size tested it and fits perfectly.
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Argonaut20]

Cool idea that Allen wrench. I'll have to sift through the tools and scrap for likely bucking bars.

[RM66caravel]

That is how I discovered the Allen wrench I was desperate and the chisel was there! The Allen wrench fit in the channel so it is for use with the door! Thanks
Cliff


Yes I said that! Or did I?

[Argonaut20]

Now I am trying to figure out how to bend the new sides so they fit but don't put so much stress on the rivets in the belly pan. There is an addition to the side panel on each side and the removal of the rivets in the belly pan had them literally spring open. It seems to me that a little bending of those 'wings' would be a good thing.

[Argonaut20]

I also did a trial fit on the 6 gallon Atwood water heater today. There really wasn't much tinkering necessary to get it in so I could mark where the hole for the gas line should go. A little progress is a good thing.