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Old 02-02-2021, 08:03 AM   #221
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2005 25' Safari
1968 17' Caravel
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Vivian- I'm meeting a guy tomorrow to pick up some more for my theme. I'll start a new thread when I do and post the link on David and Hollie's thread. We can thank ALUMINUMINUM for any expenditures that otherwise wouldn't have happened. He's upping the ante. Jerry
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Old 02-03-2021, 08:46 AM   #222
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Theme

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Originally Posted by docflyboy View Post
Vivian- I'm meeting a guy tomorrow to pick up some more for my theme. I'll start a new thread when I do and post the link on David and Hollie's thread. We can thank ALUMINUMINUM for any expenditures that otherwise wouldn't have happened. He's upping the ante. Jerry
Jerry, this is wonderful! Really looking forward to all of this. Airstreamers are the absolute best! And huge thanks to ALUMINUMINUM for this support, too.

Vivian
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Old 02-04-2021, 05:56 AM   #223
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Vivian-I'm a day late in meeting my guy, but I'll see him this morining. I started just the beginnings of the Decor/Nostalgia thread at

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f46...me-219027.html

Jerry
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Old 03-22-2021, 08:15 PM   #224
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1966 17' Caravel
1972 21' Globetrotter
SW , Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flostream66 View Post
DJB216, good thought to apply an opaque window film to the back window. But it would bug me because I would want to see out, and the way I have designed my trailer, the bath area, when not in use, is intended to be an extension of the "wee" living space (as you have publicly decried my trailer!).

Attachment 387116

Moreover, most of the time, the window does not need to be covered. But the beautiful railshade, even if smaller, would not work in this space because of the way the vintage window frame sticks out by about 1/8 of an inch from the aluminum frame that I added to keep the water out. And I agree with Dingo Girl and the good Doc that it is just too risky to affix it directly to the fiberglass. So, sadly, back it goes.

I am working on an alternative solution...which borrows from the best of the rail shade but is a more certain mount that will also assure closure along the sides. So, those who are interested in this Caravel curtain conundrum, stay tuned.
I like how you trimmed up your shower fiberglass on the floor. Is there any drawback to doing this?
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Old 03-23-2021, 01:00 PM   #225
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1966 17' Caravel
Pine Plains , NY
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Marmoleum Meets Shower Surround

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Originally Posted by Peter417 View Post
I like how you trimmed up your shower fiberglass on the floor. Is there any drawback to doing this?
Hi Peter! First of all, I have read several of your Caravel Stewardship entries - you are doing a fine job restoring your grandfather's Caravel.

Thanks for the trim nod. I like the clean lines, and the practicality. I have not discovered any issues with the way the shower pan is affixed along the front, using the screws with built-in washers. The washers provide extra surface stability - the thinking here was to prevent the old shower surround from cracking. I have included a close-up photo of the screws for your reference.

I read with interest on your thread that you feel you are unable to do a full sheet of Marmoleum in your Caravel restoration because you are not taking out the shower pan. If you remove the fasteners, there actually is just enough play to slide a piece of Marmoleum under the flange along the front - just go slow, so as to prevent any cracking of the surround. The front screws were among the last pieces to go in as we needed to keep adjusting the lower part of the shower pan due to a variety of factors I have described at length above. There definitely is enough play.

Alternatively, you can take the approach of the PO, and just tile up to the surround, but it doesn't look as finished, and there is the issue of water from shower use. From the sounds of it, you are replacing a linoleum tile of similar ilk! The old faux parquet tile in mine was very thick.

While I would have preferred a whole sheet of Marmoleum like Docflyboy used, the material was never ordered, and so due to the press of the build schedule, I had to go with the large format Marmoleum tiles. Considering the amount of space that is actually visible, it is a solid alternative, especially if you are planning to use area rugs, as I have done for insulation and dirt control. I chose the Striata design as it helps to camouflage the seams which are barely visible, but noticeable in spots because I went with a lighter floor. If you went with a darker flooring like DFB, then I believe the seams would be virtually impossible to spot...with or without the rugs!

BTW: my shower surround was already in place when the new PEX lines were installed, so you definitely can snake the lines through the front of the shower surround - tho I would think you would need to take the SS closet out to do it efficiently. [I have posted about the PEX install above with photos, if that's helpful.] Just be sure to add a casing to prevent chaffing on the inside wall of the shower pan.

Keep up the good work on your restoration!
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Old 03-23-2021, 02:03 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flostream66 View Post
Hi Peter! First of all, I have read several of your Caravel Stewardship entries - you are doing a fine job restoring your grandfather's Caravel.

Thanks for the trim nod. I like the clean lines, and the practicality. I have not discovered any issues with the way the shower pan is affixed along the front, using the screws with built-in washers. The washers provide extra surface stability - the thinking here was to prevent the old shower surround from cracking. I have included a close-up photo of the screws for your reference.

I read with interest on your thread that you feel you are unable to do a full sheet of Marmoleum in your Caravel restoration because you are not taking out the shower pan. If you remove the fasteners, there actually is just enough play to slide a piece of Marmoleum under the flange along the front - just go slow, so as to prevent any cracking of the surround. The front screws were among the last pieces to go in as we needed to keep adjusting the lower part of the shower pan due to a variety of factors I have described at length above. There definitely is enough play.

Alternatively, you can take the approach of the PO, and just tile up to the surround, but it doesn't look as finished, and there is the issue of water from shower use. From the sounds of it, you are replacing a linoleum tile of similar ilk! The old faux parquet tile in mine was very thick.

While I would have preferred a whole sheet of Marmoleum like Docflyboy used, the material was never ordered, and so due to the press of the build schedule, I had to go with the large format Marmoleum tiles. Considering the amount of space that is actually visible, it is a solid alternative, especially if you are planning to use area rugs, as I have done for insulation and dirt control. I chose the Striata design as it helps to camouflage the seams which are barely visible, but noticeable in spots because I went with a lighter floor. If you went with a darker flooring like DFB, then I believe the seams would be virtually impossible to spot...with or without the rugs!

BTW: my shower surround was already in place when the new PEX lines were installed, so you definitely can snake the lines through the front of the shower surround - tho I would think you would need to take the SS closet out to do it efficiently. [I have posted about the PEX install above with photos, if that's helpful.] Just be sure to add a casing to prevent chaffing on the inside wall of the shower pan.

Keep up the good work on your restoration!
Thank you for following along. I am having a ton of fun working on it. I don't want to take to much credit though. My grandfather did the restoration on this one. I am just making some minor improvements.

The story of the floor in my trailer is a bit fuzzy, but the way I understand it is the empty shell with the exception of the shower was hauled from KC to the airstream factory or the airstream dealership in STL. While there some sort of snap together floor was installed. If the installer had accounted for movement I think it would be a decent floor. I plan to limp it by for at least a year or two while I mentally prepare myself to remove the interior. Hopefully I will have another restored trailer to camp in before I start that. As far as the stick on tiles go I am not sure if my grandfather did that or the other floor installer. There was 1/8" plywood butted up to the shower surround out to about the sliding door where a piece of trim finished it off.

I do really like how you trimmed that up and I think I will do that same.

I had a good pex line in the shower surround from where my grandfather ran it. He really did go through all the systems. At the time of the restoration he did not know that shower could come out so it was never removed. I was able to cut his existing pex and put an elbow in. It worked out perfect.


I would love to check out your Caravel in person. Will you be going to any events this summer in the middle states?
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Old 06-27-2021, 09:30 PM   #227
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Hollie your trailer looked just as good in person as it does in the pics! Great work.
Mike.
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Old 06-29-2021, 07:34 PM   #228
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Thanks, Mike! It was great fun to meet you and your family...and to see how many Caravelians we could squeeze into Flo! Even DJB would have been impressed.
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Old 06-30-2021, 06:19 PM   #229
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I bet I would be. Like college students crammed in a VW beetle. David
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Old 08-16-2021, 11:12 AM   #230
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Good morning,
I have a 1966 Caravel as well. Did you end up pulling the shower pan up by chance as I as interested in how difficult this is?
Id like to add a gray water tank without taking off the belly pan...
Karin
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Old 08-17-2021, 08:09 AM   #231
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Pulling up the shower "pan" will be tons of work. Will be much easier going at it from below. I fabricated a large loop of 4" sewer pipe as a grey water "tank". I used a one way valve to eliminate the P trap. This allowed everything to fit above the belly skin and no need for the "dog bowl" p trap cover.
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Old 08-17-2021, 09:11 AM   #232
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Karin-Pulling the belly skin is the way to go. There's no rule that you have to pull it from front to back. You could take a shears and cut it crossways anywhere you'd like. My '68 Caravel had a rinky-dink galvanized grey water tank that I think came from the factory. You may have flooring issues that you discover from below as well. To pull the shower pan, you have to pull at least the Street Side bulkhead and the goucho on the Street Side. I had a new frame made for my trailer when it had the shell off and had a grey water tank put below the floor. I have a P-trap that has its own cover that sits a little lower than the cover for the grey water tank. The Curb-Side vent stack is the vent for the grey water tank. Your trailer weighs in at 2240 lbs. You should be able to jack it high enough, being careful for safety to a point where you could do this with a rolling stool from underneath. You're likely though to find rot in your plywood floor under your shower pan, due to the way that the back bumper and storage locker let water go forward, especially if they've been stored outside and with the trailer level or tongue low. Do you know if the trailer has ever been apart by a PO. If so, you may have a good floor or a repaired floor. Mine had a lot of rot around the water heater. There's a lot of "moving parts" on a mod like this, but I appreciate not wanting to remove everything from your trailer to make the upgrade.
Here's a totally different take on your issue. You have a pretty ample space aft of your water heater under your lavatory sink. You'd have plenty of space to find a poly tank that fits there and drain your kitchen sink and lavatory into that, and then just do a garden hose to your shower pan. Vent the new tank with the existing vent stack on the Curb Side and call it good. You could get that in that space by just pulling your water heater. Jerry
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