LP line preventing clean water tank removal on 1972 Tradewind 25'

[Callous]

Dropping clean water tank...

In manual, looks simple.

Simple, of course, not easy.

Post by Aerowood (I believe) said 4 hrs and use a come-a-long.

Sweet, that's what I was thinking already, so I go to hook up...

The LP line is interminably in the way. It comes through the frame about 2' ahead of where the front angle of the pan sits (the one removed to allow board to slide)...

Bending not option. Possible option disconnecting further forward, then cutting sealant and trying to pull line forward for clearance so board won't crush it...

Even if that works, it appears the leveling jack is in the way...

Anyone solve this yet? Nothing about it in manual, I don't think my LP line is a modification but I suppose anything is possible...

All help appreciated, stuck until I figured this one out!

[dbj216]

I had to remove the "main" propane line on our 1976 Limited when I dropped the fresh water tank. You will also have to remove the fill hose and the water pump suction line connections, and then the wiring for the tank level sensors. The job is just a whole lot of fun.

David

[Callous]

How did you remove it? Cut and splice, or pull through frame?

Did you have to take levelling jacks off too?

I’m tempted to just cut the board in half

[dbj216]

I guess I punched out rather early yesterday. Sorry for the late response.

I first loosened the flare connection at the front of the trailer. I also loosened the connections to the furnace, fridge and the like. This left the main line more moveable. I think I could have pulled the main line backwards enough to clear the bolts. My tank was held up with the tank pan. I've never removed one that sits on plywood. A guy has to be careful not to cut or drill through the plastic tank in anyway.

By the time you read this, I bet you will have the tank removed.

David

[uwe]

Propane supply lines should never be run into frame or inside belly pan. That would be a major code violation. They typically run under the trailer, then branch off and go up to appliances, which is legal.
Can we ask for a picture of the area in question? And yes, stabilizers and other obstacles must be removed before the tank support slides out.
Id say eliminate the existing LP line, and run a new one from regulator to the supply under the trailer.

[Callous]

First time uploading photos, looks like they are attached.

img-0223 is looking forward and streetside from a position on the ground by the entry step on the curbside.

img-0225 would be the same line, but now looking to the rear.

It appears as though the line runs through a hole in cross-beam of the frame and then exits through a belly pan, with sealant around the hole.

I had not considered that this may not be factory, so now I'll consult my book later tonight (which, btw - has not been nearly as helpful as I told people it would! - thanks for these forums!)

All responses appreciated, this is a trying time but one full of growth!

[dbj216]

You are lucky you found that and now you can correct it. Propane lines are typically hung under the trailer below the belly aluminum and then run straight up to the appliance, e.g. fridge, stove, water heater, furnace, et al. I have never experienced one run through a frame cross member like that. The reason for keeping them low is to avoid a small leak from accumulating propane between the floor and the belly pan. That could be dangerous.

Here is a photo of the new propane lines I ran under my 66 Trade Wind 24'. I replaced them as the old ones were getting rather corroded.

David

[Callous]

Really appreciate the advice and especially the experience you brought to this issue. Should help me resolve this issue. I don't think I'll get to it today, but will try to post updates when I get into it. New AC is here and I'm trying to get that one taken care of asap!

Originally Posted by dbj216

You are lucky you found that and now you can correct it. Propane lines are typically hung under the trailer below the belly aluminum and then run straight up to the appliance, e.g. fridge, stove, water heater, furnace, et al. I have never experienced one run through a frame cross member like that. The reason for keeping them low is to avoid a small leak from accumulating propane between the floor and the belly pan. That could be dangerous.

Here is a photo of the new propane lines I ran under my 66 Trade Wind 24'. I replaced them as the old ones were getting rather corroded.

David

[dbj216]

You are most welcome for the little help I might provide.

I've installed a couple of air conditioners. The first one I forgot to rig the condensate drain. There may be a rubber hose in your air conditioners roof opening that runs down between the walls to the ground. Don't forget to rig it up less you have condensate water running down the side of your trailer like I have.

The second one I installed I could not figure out the instructions. They talked about hooking up 12 positive and then 12v negative to the thermostat. I've never seen a 12v negative. That is usually called a ground. Anyway, is was confusing and rather humorous.

The AC is heavy, so get help lifting up to the roof of the trailer. We made a little plywood platform to distribute the load of the AC to the roof formers. Airstream roofs aren't designed to carry heavy loads. Gotta stay on the "formers" that the skin is riveted to. The formers are strong. Some call them hoops, and some call them ribs. But they form the body shape.

David