Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-01-2020, 07:51 PM   #81
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Updates

I would love to hear more of your opinions about the Avantech sub-floor vs plywood. Especially from someone who had installed it. It looks like OSB, but doesn't seem to perform like it. Shortly after gluing all the joints, the clouds started rolling in. I did throw some holey tarps over but it has been raining hard for the last three days. Every once in a while I'll take a look under the tarp. There has been puddles, but the "wood" appears untouched. Had it been untreated plywood, I might have had a mess. The Safari I treated with Thompson Water seal and multiple coats of poly.

I am also thinking about running a layer of Zip system joint sealing tape all around the edge. It is incredibly tough sticky stuff. It would protrude out from under the C-channel and wrap all the way around edge. The marmoleum would then be glued to it on the inside. Seams like if water makes it down the wall, it would be forced to appear on the floor or roll off the edge and not have a chance to wet the "wood". What do you guys think?

As of now the complete floor is cut and glued and floating on the frame. Tomorrow I am going to build new wheel wells, level the frame and start screwing it down.

I did something yesterday that I should have done a long time ago, I opened an account at Fastenal. I am pretty sure he said I will get a 50% discount on fasteners. No more Home Depot blister packs. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-01-2020, 11:17 PM   #82
Rivet Master
 
57Vintage's Avatar
 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 872
Images: 22
The Zip sealing tape makes sense. I always thought the edges of plywood were more of an issue for water penetration.

What are you using to fasten the floor to the frame?
__________________
Harold & Rebecca

Our thread:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f97...er-172124.html
57Vintage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2020, 04:29 AM   #83
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Quote:
Originally Posted by 57Vintage View Post
What are you using to fasten the floor to the frame?
I have 100 elevator bolts that I will use with locking nuts. The ones with the internal nylon band. Figured that would be easier than bending over the bolts, especially for future restorers. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2020, 06:55 PM   #84
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,397
Images: 1
Fastenal is a good outfit. I have an account with them also.

How do you keep the elevator bolts from spinning when you run up a nyloc nut from the bottom?

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-02-2020, 08:05 PM   #85
Rivet Master
 
57Vintage's Avatar
 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 872
Images: 22
I added anti-turn washers that fit the square lip of the elevator bolts.


Name:   hillman-flat-washers-290301-64_1000.jpg
Views: 233
Size:  8.2 KB

I've noticed there now are also elevator bolts with the teeth stamped into the head.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-29030...11089260&psc=1

I countersunk the subfloor with a forstner bit to get the head flush.
__________________
Harold & Rebecca

Our thread:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f97...er-172124.html
57Vintage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-03-2020, 06:19 PM   #86
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,397
Images: 1
Thanks 57 Vintage. I hadn't thought of those. I do have a forstner bit for countersinking. Don't tell anyone, but I've been known to use a spade drill for the same purpose.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2020, 03:32 AM   #87
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
How do you keep the elevator bolts from spinning when you run up a nyloc nut from the bottom?
Good question. After successfully installing six, by setting them with a hammer and running in the nut with a driver, the seventh one spun. I will get the lock nuts suggested by 57Vintage which will be delivered on Wednesday. Thanks for the suggestion, I hadn't seen those before.

When ordering the lock nuts, I came onto another washer that might work out well. Stainless Steel EPDM Bonded Sealing Neoprene Rubber Washers seem like the perfect way to hold down the C-channel. On the Safari, I primed all of the hold down areas with Zinc Chromate to try and limit the galvanic corrosion between the SS bolts and the Aluminum channel, but I think these will work even better. Good suggestion Amazon.

Didn't get as far as I hoped yesterday, mainly because my metal supplier only had one sheet of galvanized 22 gauge. Each wheel well need a full sheet. One reason I like working on these old trailers is most parts can be fabricated quite easily. I measured the old panels, transferred the design to the new sheet and cut it out with my trusty HF metal shear. I had built up a wooden buck that I planned to use for all of the bending, but cheated a bit as my metal supplier made three bends for me on his 8 foot brake. I'll pick up the second sheet on Monday along with the Aluminum for the belly pan.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0695.JPG
Views:	68
Size:	112.6 KB
ID:	371916

I had hoped to refurb the wheel wells with a little silver paint, but found a lot of perforations during cleaning. The new one wasn't that difficult should last longer than the first one with some heavy duty undercoat. I am also liking the Zip system flashing tape, I am thinking that should do a good job of keeping the water off the wood. It is some sticky tough stuff.

When the shell was off but before removing the floor, I made a full size template of the floor.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0686.JPG
Views:	59
Size:	69.5 KB
ID:	371917

I then used that template to cut out the new floor after it was all bonded together. Made the cut out quite easy, but more importantly, should all but guarantee the shell will fit. The original measurement was 61' 8 3/4". I was so relieved when the new measurement came in a 61' 7 1/2". That allows an inch for the belly pan material. - Mark
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0694.JPG
Views:	52
Size:	135.9 KB
ID:	371918
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-04-2020, 07:19 PM   #88
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,397
Images: 1
That is a good looking fabricated wheel well. Not an easy part to make. I always wondered why Airstream didn't fabricate them out of 11ga or some other strong material. A blown Goodyear Marathon tire can reek havoc with the wheel well and the body and interior of the trailer. We need a strong scatter shield for a wheel well.

Zip tape is what we used on the top of the deck joists to seal them. It is a great material.

We will all wait with betted breath when that shell plops down on your refurbished chassis.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2020, 04:45 AM   #89
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Finished up the floor yesterday. Ended up not using the locking washers on the elevator bolts. About half tightened up fine and the other half I was able to hold with a vice grip while my daughter snugged up. I decided I didn't not want to give up the extra 1/8" of floor material under the head I would need to remove to assure the final was below floor level. It took maybe five minutes to snug them up as we did it with the trailer at 90 degrees from the ground.

I really did like the neoprene fused washers to hold down the C-channel. They will seal the hole as well as insulate the Aluminum from the SS bolts.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0700.JPG
Views:	72
Size:	73.3 KB
ID:	372523

Next up was to put the assembly back on the rotisserie to flip. This chassis is so much bigger (and heavier) than the Safari. My usual method is to lift off of one side of the bucket of my tractor, never been a problem. But while lifting one end of this I noticed one of the rear wheels of the tractor becoming airborne. Moved to the center of the bucket and all was fine. But it is big. This was the orientation when we tightened up the elevator bolts.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0712.JPG
Views:	70
Size:	158.4 KB
ID:	372524 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0713.JPG
Views:	67
Size:	148.1 KB
ID:	372526

From here another 90 degrees and drop it down on six jack stands and it is ready for insulation and belly pan. I was able to procure 0.025" 5052 aluminium this time rather the 0.032". I believe this what was originally used and should be a lot easier to work with. - Mark
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0714.JPG
Views:	55
Size:	166.2 KB
ID:	372525
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2020, 07:01 PM   #90
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,397
Images: 1
Happy you noticed the unbalanced condition of your tractor before it decided to tip. The frame looks heavy just looking at it. The axles are what, 170 pounds each with drums.

I've used 5052 aluminum sheet at .025 thick for my belly pans. It is what Airstream uses. It isn't strong material, but it is suitable for the job.

I do think you ought to roll that frame sunny side up, block it up about 20", and install the tanks, insulation and belly aluminum on your back like the rest of us slugs have to do.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2020, 05:00 AM   #91
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I do think you ought to roll that frame sunny side up, block it up about 20", and install the tanks, insulation and belly aluminum on your back like the rest of us slugs have to do.
David
David, I thought about it, but then decided that the insulation and belly pan aren't going to add much weight. Also I'm working on a gravel driveway and creepers are a real PIA.

Decided to use the same insulation strategy as I used on the Safari. Closed cell foam held away from the floor on one inch foam risers. Construction adhesive at all interfaces with a wood screw and fender washer to hold it all together. The lightening holes in the cross bars were a bit of a pain so I used silver tape to seal any gaps.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0731.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	115.0 KB
ID:	374005

I built the spare tire pan and the shower sump pan out of old belly material. Trying to recycle what I can.

I still don't know how you guys do this on your back. - Mark
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0739.jpg
Views:	73
Size:	114.5 KB
ID:	374006
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-26-2020, 07:03 PM   #92
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,397
Images: 1
"I still don't know how you guys do this on your back." It is the opposite of doing it on your front. A hard surface makes the creeper roll a bit easier, but it gets stuck on cords, air hoses, and rivet mandrels. It isn't an easy job, even with anti gravity devices. I've done it five times now and it makes me cuss every time.

Your belly insulation looks super great. It takes a lot of time to cut all those pieces. Your subfloor will stay dry, and your feet will stay warm. Win - win as they say.



David
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1904 Belly Drill & Rivet-800x600.JPG
Views:	61
Size:	120.3 KB
ID:	374080   Click image for larger version

Name:	1904 Belly Jack Up-800x600.JPG
Views:	81
Size:	114.6 KB
ID:	374081  

__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2020, 06:58 AM   #93
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
I've been neglecting the forum and focusing on the trailer. Sorry about that. I just don't have as many questions second time around.

I did want to report that I think I have come up with a good solution for that age old problem of the knife edged outriggers.

On the Safari, since I was building the outriggers, I designed them with an upturned end to spread out the load and then filled the gaps with plastic glued into place.

On the Ambassador, the outriggers on both ends of the wheel wells were knife edge. Impossible to seal and great entry points for mice and road dirt and water.

My solution utilized some 3/4" x 4" polyethylene trim board that I had laying around after a house project. I rough cut a 4" section on my chop saw. Made a clearance bore to clear the floor attachment bolt and used a single 1/4" SS bolt and lock nut to secure into place.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0743.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	68.9 KB
ID:	375185

I then used a band sander to clean up the profile to my liking. All of the white you can see would have been a gap.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0741.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	100.5 KB
ID:	375187

It checks all the boxes:
  • Smooth transition for the belly pan
  • Good bearing surface for the belly pan
  • No galvanic problems
  • Easy to seal, with no gaps

I did it to the wheel wells and liked it so much and it was so easy, I did it to the complete frame. - Mark
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0747B.JPG
Views:	61
Size:	144.7 KB
ID:	375186
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2020, 07:08 PM   #94
Rivet Master
 
dbj216's Avatar

 
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,397
Images: 1
That is so cool! Patent it and sell it to Airstream.

We filled the gap with sealant, but it won't last near as long as your pieces will.

We actually had cuts in the aluminum body wraps where the outriggers cut into them from vibrations I imagine.

David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
dbj216 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2020, 05:53 AM   #95
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Belly Pan

The Ambassador's belly pan required a different approach than the Safari. On the Safari, the length required to go from C channel to C channel was exactly 8 feet (or 96"). It also had 2" wide cross members to rivet into. I basically ran full size Aluminum sheets east-west and butted them together on a cross member. I then added a little Z flashing to keep them from becoming water scoops.

Even though I believe them to be the same width with the same depth of frame, the Ambassador needed 98" channel to channel. In addition the cross members were only 1/2", not enough to support multiple sheets. What I ended up doing was splicing together two full 4'x8' sheets with a 6" panel in between (2" showing). One large panel for the rear of the trailer and one for the front. In the center section, I cut the panels first, slipped them under the axles and in place and then spliced them together. In the very front around the spare carrier, I added three smaller panels, one for each corner and one in the very front. My goal in all of this was to have no entry spots for rodents.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0761 3.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	128.7 KB
ID:	375912

I almost forgot to run the wires for the brakes, the trailer umbilical and the wires for the break away switch.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0760 3.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	100.6 KB
ID:	375911

A little trick I found that worked really well to find the cross members for drilling was to use a magnetic disk. I would roll it toward the cross member and it seemed to always stop right in the middle. Not sure how this would work if the frame wasn't upside down, but worked great for me.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0749.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	87.9 KB
ID:	375914

Here it is attached to one end of the rotisserie just before flipping for the last time. Looks kind of like an aircraft carrier. It seems so much bigger than the Safari.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0763 3.jpg
Views:	51
Size:	151.4 KB
ID:	375913

All and all I used seven, 4'x8' 0.025 5052 Aluminum and 200 large head rivets. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2020, 06:04 AM   #96
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Once there were Two, now there is One

Putting the shell back onto the frame really went quite smoothly. Got the front in place and worked our way back. Only trouble came when the very back wouldn't go down far enough. A friend suggested jacking up the frame and then it hit me, the frame sags a couple of inches under its own weight. A couple of jacks under the rear bumper and everything lined up.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0767 3.jpg
Views:	54
Size:	104.2 KB
ID:	375915

And it is one.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0789.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	122.8 KB
ID:	375916

Interesting to compare the ride height with an original picture. I would say we gained a couple of inches.- Mark
Click image for larger version

Name:	556727.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	101.7 KB
ID:	375917
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2020, 06:24 AM   #97
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Since getting it back together, I've been working a smaller projects. I rebuilt the door replacing the fiberglass with rock wool. Replaced the screen and prepped the inside for paint.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0785.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	79.8 KB
ID:	375920

I installed a dead bolt. I always feel better when travelling to know the door is not going to pop open.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0786.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	71.6 KB
ID:	375919

The main door handle now has a problem (the one in the picture above). I took it apart and some of the internal pot metal pieces have broken.

Anyone have any ideas for a replacement? Or have any old latch sets around you might want to sell?

I think this brings me up to date. Today I plan to re-bed the Skyview roof hatch followed by the two standard roof hatches. Slowly but surly sealing up the old girl.

My plan is to get it weather tight, wired, insulated and the internal walls up and then back off until spring. Over the winter I will work in my basement shop building new furniture. I don't think there is any thing I can reuse. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2020, 08:07 AM   #98
Rivet Master
 
57Vintage's Avatar
 
1958 26' Overlander
Battle Ground , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 872
Images: 22
What parts do you need for the door handle? I'm about to replace that style with another. Mine has damage to the main shaft. Photos would help.
__________________
Harold & Rebecca

Our thread:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f97...er-172124.html
57Vintage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2020, 04:57 AM   #99
Rivet Master
 
Mikebrady62's Avatar

 
2019 27' International
Rogers , Arkansas
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 761
Great progress Mark. Looking good!
Mikebrady62 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2020, 05:26 AM   #100
Rivet Master
 
steinVT's Avatar
 
1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 503
Taking the locking mechanism apart, it appears that two tabs on the main slider are broken off. The main slider is pot menu. Here is a photo with the tabs in place.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0800.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	136.0 KB
ID:	376090

These are the broken tabs.
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0801.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	74.5 KB
ID:	376089

The other piece I need is the inside handle. I don't have a picture, but it is basically a straight handle with a square drive. It is held in place by a spring clip in the square plate in the lower right corner of the picture above.

Harold, what are you replacing your's with? I have no great love of this style. - Mark
__________________
Our Restoration Blogs: 1956 Safari and 1962 Ambassador
steinVT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1962


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Time to bite the bullet SARGE/AF Off Topic Forum 10 02-25-2015 11:17 AM
Gonna bite the bullet and finally get one! WisePharm Member Introductions 23 02-12-2014 09:35 PM
Time to bite the bullet and put new in the old! ericjan2 Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 3 10-18-2012 09:37 PM
Shark-bite Pex components. boatdoc Fresh Water Systems 19 11-05-2008 07:00 AM
About To Bite The Silver Bullet strohmdl Classic Motorhomes 9 07-28-2008 04:14 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.