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Old 04-25-2019, 08:10 PM   #41
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1967 24' Tradewind
North Pole , Alaska
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I’m not as spun up on the various types of aluminum as I should be. What is the 3003 typically used for? I know I will need some aluminum for a few patches on the skin, and a sizable amount to replace the belly pan.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:10 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwwalker18 View Post
I’m not as spun up on the various types of aluminum as I should be. What is the 3003 typically used for? I know I will need some aluminum for a few patches on the skin, and a sizable amount to replace the belly pan.
I used 3003 for the interior and the exterior skin, and 5052 for the belly pan. Depending on year, they used the 2024 alclad for the exterior, but it is hard to get get up here.

5052 is strong, and corrosion resistant, but is prone to cracking when bent to far (why it is good for belly pans). It also doesn't dent as easily as 3003.

3003 is maleable, and shines up very well. As far as shining when polished, it is as close as you can get to 2024 alclad.

Here is a good writeup.

https://www.modernmetals.com/item/11...termarket.html


The sheets that I would order would be .032 3003. If you don't want to go with that, then let me know and we can order you a different alloy (like some 5052 for your belly pan), we could change one sheet of the 3003 to whatever you want and combine shipping.

I also attached a PDF that shows what they used for exteriors throughout the years. Depending on how big your patch panels are, I may have enough sitting around for you.
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File Type: pdf airstream alum.pdf (183.8 KB, 41 views)
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:47 AM   #43
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I am hoping to get mine ordered today, and will end up just ordering another sheet of 3003 .032 unless you tell me that you can use something different, and I will just swap one sheet out for that.
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Old 04-26-2019, 10:55 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badpaddler View Post
I used 3003 for the interior and the exterior skin, and 5052 for the belly pan. Depending on year, they used the 2024 alclad for the exterior, but it is hard to get get up here.

5052 is strong, and corrosion resistant, but is prone to cracking when bent to far (why it is good for belly pans). It also doesn't dent as easily as 3003.

3003 is maleable, and shines up very well. As far as shining when polished, it is as close as you can get to 2024 alclad.

Here is a good writeup.

https://www.modernmetals.com/item/11...termarket.html


The sheets that I would order would be .032 3003. If you don't want to go with that, then let me know and we can order you a different alloy (like some 5052 for your belly pan), we could change one sheet of the 3003 to whatever you want and combine shipping.

I also attached a PDF that shows what they used for exteriors throughout the years. Depending on how big your patch panels are, I may have enough sitting around for you.


Thank you, that was very helpful!

I just need a couple square feet of the 3003, so a sheet may be overkill.

I am definitely interested in a sheet (or more) of the 5052, however. I sent you a PM with my contact information.

Dan
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Old 04-27-2019, 08:37 AM   #45
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1972 31' Sovereign
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FYI for Alaskan Airstream enthusiasts, I just saw a 1966 Airstream Safari 22 listed in the Peninsula Man Stuff Facebook classifieds. I’d love a smaller one than my 31 footer but out of the budget for now.
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Old 04-28-2019, 08:05 PM   #46
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Finally got out to do some more work on Otis. Didn’t accomplish too terribly much, but I was able to remove some more random rivets and the old Airstream Logo that a PO had repurposed to say something else.

I also started removing the old vent caps. I thought this was going to be much easier than it was. I got held up by what I suspect is an obscene amount of silicone sealant. It is a bear to get off. That job is about 80% complete. I’ll re-attack it throughout the week with the hopes of completing the “clean up” by next weekend.
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:18 PM   #47
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It’s been a busy week for Otis! Week started off by meeting Badpaddler and getting a few sheets for the belly pan. It was great meeting another enthusiast, especially one that has much more experience and know-how than I do!

Last week got in a shipment of various supplies for VTS, which included some new vent caps. Throughout the week I painted them so they are ready when it’s time to install. I used automotive paint and clear coat so hopefully it stands up over time.

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The new axles also arrived this week, after a two month journey. I ordered them from Colin Hyde, and they arrived in good condition. The great irony of this is that up until a few years ago I lived less than a hundred miles from his shop. Now, It’s closer to 4000 miles!

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I was able to nearly complete three minor tasks this week as well. I’m about 90% complete scraping off the old sealant and crud from the shell. I used some plastic “razor” blades I found on amazon. They worked reasonably well and didn’t scratch up the shell. Next round I’m going to try to use goof off to finish.

I started to seal around the wheel wells. I did the area surrounding them on the interior of the trailer, but will wait until I change out the axles to attack it from the outside.

I also made some good headway sealing the rear area by the bumper. First picture is as it was after I put the shell back on without thinking through the problem. I used some aluminum flashing to build a barrier. In the third photo you’ll see the flashing hanging down. I left it unfinished for when I build out the rear bumper storage area.

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Final project of the week was fixing the area around the door. This included cutting out the subfloor so the door frame mounts flush. I also took the opportunity to add a piece of flashing to cover the gap between the door frame and the frame to help keep some water out. It was looking really good until I started tightening everything back down, and then it started to wrinkle.

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But, when the door is closed it’s hardly noticeable.

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I’m considering riveting another piece of aluminum over top that is cut to fit, just for aesthetics.

All in all, a productive week!

Dan
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Old 05-14-2019, 04:02 PM   #48
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1967 22' Safari
1958 18' "Footer"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwwalker18 View Post
It’s been a busy week for Otis! Week started off by meeting Badpaddler and getting a few sheets for the belly pan. It was great meeting another enthusiast, especially one that has much more experience and know-how than I do!

Last week got in a shipment of various supplies for VTS, which included some new vent caps. Throughout the week I painted them so they are ready when it’s time to install. I used automotive paint and clear coat so hopefully it stands up over time.

Attachment 340591

The new axles also arrived this week, after a two month journey. I ordered them from Colin Hyde, and they arrived in good condition. The great irony of this is that up until a few years ago I lived less than a hundred miles from his shop. Now, It’s closer to 4000 miles!

Attachment 340592

I was able to nearly complete three minor tasks this week as well. I’m about 90% complete scraping off the old sealant and crud from the shell. I used some plastic “razor” blades I found on amazon. They worked reasonably well and didn’t scratch up the shell. Next round I’m going to try to use goof off to finish.

I started to seal around the wheel wells. I did the area surrounding them on the interior of the trailer, but will wait until I change out the axles to attack it from the outside.

I also made some good headway sealing the rear area by the bumper. First picture is as it was after I put the shell back on without thinking through the problem. I used some aluminum flashing to build a barrier. In the third photo you’ll see the flashing hanging down. I left it unfinished for when I build out the rear bumper storage area.

Attachment 340593
Attachment 340594
Attachment 340595

Final project of the week was fixing the area around the door. This included cutting out the subfloor so the door frame mounts flush. I also took the opportunity to add a piece of flashing to cover the gap between the door frame and the frame to help keep some water out. It was looking really good until I started tightening everything back down, and then it started to wrinkle.

Attachment 340602

But, when the door is closed it’s hardly noticeable.

Attachment 340603

I’m considering riveting another piece of aluminum over top that is cut to fit, just for aesthetics.

All in all, a productive week!

Dan
Looking good! I am just a bit closer to getting myself in more trouble. ;-) Glad to see you are getting her done. I have some more stuff for you, but I will text that info for ya.

Seth
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:17 PM   #49
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Question for the group:
Should I remove the old awning mounting rail? I have no awning to mount to it at present. On the ends it’s a little beat up, but doesn’t seem irreparable. Eventually I plan on replacing the awning, just not sure if I’m going to want to keep the same rail up there. Thanks for your thoughts!
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Old 06-27-2019, 01:25 AM   #50
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It’s been a busy month! The theme for the month has been rivets!

With the help of some family in town, and a friend with some extra time on his hands, almost all the riveting is complete! This includes riveting the shell back down to the hold down plates, C-channel, and all the patches!

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I also cleaned up the windows, replaced the old plexiglass with new Lexan, and replanted all the window sills and hardware. I’m really happy with how they turned out. And only one leaked! But that was an easy fix (lexan replacement was too long, causing it to bubble up when closed). Makes it look that much nicer already!

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I also have fabricated 1.75 access doors. I’d be done with them both, if not for measuring once and cutting twice, and running out of extrusions. Oh well. The new extrusion is waiting for me at the post office, so the other door will be done tomorrow.

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Finally, I put in the insulation under the sun floor. Now once I get the axles off to replace, I can “quickly” attach the belly pan before mounting the new axles.

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Upcoming tasks include stripping the remnants of clear coat, doing this first pass of polishing (I figure I should do this while all the lights, badges, covers, and everything else has already been removed; plus it will make the wife happy). After that, I’ll reattach everything and continue to work to waterproof it!

Dan
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Old 06-27-2019, 10:15 PM   #51
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Dan

Your window hardware and window frames look brand new! How did you do that?
Also you work much too fast! Good for you. You will be out camping in no time.

Dan
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:10 PM   #52
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Dan, thank you! I repainted using Rustoleum aluminum oil-based enamel, and their brush-on bare metal primer for the sills. On the hardware I used self etching primer and spray on aluminum enamel.

I’’m taking the next 30 days of leave with the hope of getting it road worthy (aluminum tent). We’ll be leaving Alaska next summer, and hope to have at least the major systems and a good potion of the furniture/cabinetry in place by then
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:34 AM   #53
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Been another good week for Otis! A few things, I wish I had done differently, or at different stages, but still a good week.

First, stripped Otis of the clear coat using two gallons of Back to Nature Ready Strip and a pressure washer. Worked pretty well, but was hard to balance the timing with areas in the shade versus sun. I ended up having to reapply several areas. I think I could have gotten away with just one gallon in a more consistent environment. I also wish I did this when I had the shell off. It was so easy, and took just a few hours. If I had done with with the shell off, I wouldn’t have to worry about water getting inside from the pressure washer. Before and After.

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Next project was mounting the new holding tank. Because I decided on a single, large Gray tank under the bathroom, I had to fabricate my own mounting system. And because I am using the SeeLevel system, one of those faces couldn’t be metal. So I Frankensteined a 4-sided aluminum box, with some foam insulation, and a cedar/foam front panel. This took way longer than I had hoped, and am not hugely happy with the results. But, it should work.

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It’s not mounted yet, need to have some pieces of angle welded together to for a “z,” but the welders are closed until Monday for the holiday weekend.

The biggest news of the week is that the new axles are installed! The first axles took almost all day. The second, under two hours. Axles were ordered from Colin Hyde, and were an exact fit. Only had to drill new mounting holes! I don’t have the belly pan in yet (that’s today’s task), and I will have to work around the mounting brackets now, but that’s ok. I couldn’t see a good way of jacking up the Airstream while leaving the axle area open enough to work if I had already installed the belly pan.

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Even though I plan on replacing the wheels next year, I’m going to repaint the current wheels because I can’t stand to look at them they are so ugly! Maybe a waste of time, but at least it won’t be much time.

In addition to the wheels and belly pan, I’m going to try my hand at some polishing before putting all the lights, vents, and everything else back on. If it goes poorly, it’ll get put on the back burner. If it goes well, Otis will be a handsome looking trailer!

Dan
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:28 PM   #54
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I've been watching your posts and looking at your photos ever since day 1 and I find the whole undertaking fascinating to follow. Thanks so much for making the time to share the steps in Otis' restoration.
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Old 07-09-2019, 10:04 AM   #55
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PatLee, thank you for your encouragement! I hope my experience helps the next aspiring Airstreamer and their project go a little smoother, as I know so many of the threads here have helped me along. And, if I am lucky enough to be able to do this again, I certainly want to have a record of what I messed up so I don’t do the same thing again!

Otis has seen a bit more improvement over the last couple days. Brackets for the holding tank are back from the welder, and are going through the paint process before getting mounted. They are a TIGHT fit. Had to beat them in with a hammer, but they certainly will work. Made a design change to the holding tank box as well, and mounted the wood face to it, actually making it a box. It makes it easier to mount and feels a bit more sturdy.

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Also, finished the belly pan! It’s not as tight as I’ve seen some on the forums, not as pretty but it will work. I sealed the areas that I thought were susceptible to any “driving” water, such as around the wheel wells. The rest is a little more “drafty” to allow some airflow and evaporation. I figure water will end up there one way or another, best to have some way for it to leave.

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With the belly pan done, moving into the first round of polishing. My objectives here are: give Otis a little facelift before mounting all the trim and such on, learn how to polish so I am better prepared and equipped for the future iteration when I go for he mirror finish, and most importantly, it will make the wife happy. I don’t expect I will do a good enough job this time around to get a good “base” going, but at least I’ll have a better idea what it’s going to take to get there.

To help with the polishing, I made my own scaffolding with recycled materials from the gantry and the pallet the axles showed up on. Didn’t have to make a single cut!

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I think the first 10 seconds of the Ok Carnival commercial says it best...



Dan
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Old 07-14-2019, 11:18 AM   #56
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Ok time for this week’s update:

Polishing has been punted indefinitely. Tried it, worked in some areas and other areas need an exorcism rather than a polish job. Didn’t have all the right tools for the job either. All that combined with a week of rain on the horizon, I turned my attention to reinstalling lights, vents, badges, and everything else in an effort to make it water right.

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Thankfully it didn’t rain for the week, just a couple days. It was helpful to figure out where some of the leaks were coming from, however. I have much work to do to get Otis water tight...

Dan
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:35 PM   #57
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Ok time for this week’s update:

Polishing has been punted indefinitely. Tried it, worked in some areas and other areas need an exorcism rather than a polish job. Didn’t have all the right tools for the job either. All that combined with a week of rain on the horizon, I turned my attention to reinstalling lights, vents, badges, and everything else in an effort to make it water right.

Attachment 346534Attachment 346535Attachment 346536

Thankfully it didn’t rain for the week, just a couple days. It was helpful to figure out where some of the leaks were coming from, however. I have much work to do to get Otis water tight...

Dan


The most important thing you can do is make him dry/keep him dry, happy hunting!
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Old 07-16-2019, 03:00 PM   #58
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For every leak I stop, it seams like I find two more. Gutter seal seems to be effective for sealing leaks from the inside. I plan on going back and sealing from the exterior with Captain Tolley’s and sikaflex/Vulkem once the rain stops.

One of the leaks I have found is behind a channel (see picture), and I am thinking about removing them permanently but I don’t know what they are for. Anyone know what they are for, and if I should/should not remove them? Thank you!

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Old 07-16-2019, 07:39 PM   #59
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The leaks that I found were almost all located at the lower corners of every window in our trailer. I sealed them from the outside and haven't had a problem since, although I plan to go back every year and re-seal. The worst one was on the curb side window to the front of the door. (The fixed windows on both sides were not a problem--it was always the working part of the windows.) I think this leak caused a previous owner to replace the flooring around the door. The vast majority of the frame rot we had was underneath this area.

I don't know what those channels are for, but since Airstream used them, I figured there was a good reason, so I left them in place!
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:58 PM   #60
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Rasmuw, thank you for the feedback. I am finding the same: most leaks are from the bottom window frame corners. I am sealing from inside and out, but that’s mostly because it’s still raining and I have to wait to get at the outside...
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