Introducing 1968 International Tradewind 24' Twin Restoration

[Venturewest]

Saving the original Formica countertop has been quite an undertaking. The particleboard was badly water damaged and it was disintegrating in places. The front edge of the countertop was bent upward from the weight bearing on the edge all those years. The top of the counter looked good and I was bent on saving it. Here are a few photos of the process.

First I scraped off all the loose particles. I then used Smith's Penetrating epoxy to penetrate the water damaged areas. I filled in the voids with Smith's wood epoxy filler. I used clamps to span the warped front edge of the countertop.
I was able to flatten the top back down. While clamped, I glued the 1 x 4 board down and used pocket screws to keep the front edge of the counter pulled back in to 90 degrees. Between the water proof glue and the screws, the counter should never warp again.

The back splash had damage that I thought might be irreparable. The particle board was disintegrated and the Formica had pulled away. This created a gap that was at least 3/8", with loose particles stick in it. I ran a multi-tool blade in the gap and vibrated/ scraped out all the lose material. I think filled the gap with Titebond 3. I clamped a 2x3 along the entire face of the back splash. I was able to get a straight edge and a good bond. Had that not worked, I would have scrapped the counter.

For good measure I painted the entire bottom of the counter with porch and floor enamel I had left over. I wanted to eliminate any possibility of musty odors.

It was satisfying to be able to save this original element. I think it should pretty much be indestructible at this point.

[Bubba L]

The hinged cushions look really good. We’re at the point where designing the cushions are moving from the ‘not important’ to important stage. You spent a lot of time salvaging the countertop. I think it’s well worth the effort and it looks great. Good work, Bubba

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

The hinged cushions look really good. We’re at the point where designing the cushions are moving from the ‘not important’ to important stage. You spent a lot of time salvaging the countertop. I think it’s well worth the effort and it looks great. Good work, Bubba

Thanks Bubba. I would have probably fabricated a new countertop but it matches the upper cabinet doors as well as the small section of countertop that the Central Control sits on.

Are you sticking with the original sofas or are you re-designing the furniture as well as the cushions? If I wasn't trying to mostly stay original, It would have been easier to do away with the fabric hinges.

[Venturewest]

New Axles: I. ordered these from Colin Hyde. I intended to install them myself, but shipping was cheaper if you have a commercial address. By shipping to the trailer shop it made up half the difference in the installation labor. I like the new stance. I went with the 30 degree versus the original 22 degree. (I think I have that right).

[Bubba L]

When we started renovating our 66 Safari a few years ago we met a Forums member with an original 66 only a couple of numbers off our production number. She sent us dimensions and pictures. The original cushions were hinged, so that’s the way we went. I would like to think our 66 is as close as I can build it to original, just with some modern amenities hidden. We are renovating our 55 to look as original as possible, including the furniture. So I think that’s great you are trying to stay original, including the Formica. Keep it up,Bubba

[Venturewest]

I have finished rebuilding the kitchen cabinetry. As you can see, it was in pretty bad shape. The stiles were rotted from sitting on damp carpet for years. I replaced them with new Cherry. I have grown to love my little Kreg Jig. Almost ready to get this thing put back together!

[jessl_99]

Originally Posted by Venturewest

I finally got my new plywood sub floor spliced in. I used a 19/32 ACX plywood from Home Depot. I think it was about $40 per sheet.

I feel a lot better about the attachment of the shell to the floor to the frame now.

I also did some repairing of the wheel wells. I cut out the holes, sanded all rust. I treated with Rustoleum galvaninized coating. I used additional polymer sealer and riveted on new galvanized sheet metal. I will be doing additional sealing.

I have seen many threads where people are so obsessed over the elevator attachment method. My airstream didn't have any elevator bolts that pass through the shell, floor, and outriggers. There are some that attach the floor to the frame, and others that attach the aluminum channel to sub floor. I replaced plywood on both sides of my trailer, front of the wheel wells. What I found is that there are very few rivets attaching the skin to the channel. Several of these had pulled out of the then channel. I feel there are too few elevator bolts that attach the channel to the skin. As the skin flexes in and out with the wind I think it puts a lot of sheer stress on the elevator bolts in the edge of the plywood. This seems to start to oblong the holes in the plywood. Any kind of rot really increases this and the slots reach the edge of the plywood. The shell can now flex in and out with a lot of play. That puts a lot of lateral stress on adjacent rivets holding the channel. The rivets pull through and now the shell is not longer attached to the floor at all in those areas. That is how two of my trailers have been now.

I feel it is better to have more fasteners connecting the channel to the plywood. I also feel it would be beneficial to increase the number of rivets connecting channel to skin. I used stainless lag bolts with washers and I feel I will never have an issue with channel pulling out from the plywood again.

Today I am going to replace 3 roof vents, at least one vent pipe that had pulled out of the ceiling. I would like to drop the black tank enclosure as well to see what I am dealing with back there. Attachment 306936

Hi, I have a problem on my 67 Trade wind where the plywood is separated from the channel in front of the wheel wells. How did you use the stainless lag and washer? I read other threads where people have faricated elephant ears to repair. I am looking for a sketch or photo. I'd like to avoid removing the interior skins if possible. The plywood is in pretty good condition in this area but the elevator bolts were factory installed only 3/4< from the plywood edge and have wallowed out.

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by jessl_99

Hi, I have a problem on my 67 Trade wind where the plywood is separated from the channel in front of the wheel wells. How did you use the stainless lag and washer? I read other threads where people have faricated elephant ears to repair. I am looking for a sketch or photo. I'd like to avoid removing the interior skins if possible. The plywood is in pretty good condition in this area but the elevator bolts were factory installed only 3/4< from the plywood edge and have wallowed out.

Hi Jessl,
I actually did remove the interior skins so I had access to the top of the channel. There were a couple of places I didn't remove the entire skin though, and you may be able to get away with this. On the curb side, in front of the wheel well, I cut a horizontal line to the door opening. This was only about 12" long. This allowed me to remove a panel of skin without removing the entire skin. I just used a scrap strip of skin to seam the cut. On the street side of the trailer I did the same thing to a cargo door. Because I wanted to leave my Central Control in place that was my only option. Both the areas that I made these cuts will be covered with furniture.

I hope that helps. I am not sure if I have a photo of that specifically, but feel free to ask questions.

[jessl_99]

Originally Posted by Venturewest

Hi Jessl,
I actually did remove the interior skins so I had access to the top of the channel. There were a couple of places I didn't remove the entire skin though, and you may be able to get away with this. On the curb side, in front of the wheel well, I cut a horizontal line to the door opening. This was only about 12" long. This allowed me to remove a panel of skin without removing the entire skin. I just used a scrap strip of skin to seam the cut. On the street side of the trailer I did the same thing to a cargo door. Because I wanted to leave my Central Control in place that was my only option. Both the areas that I made these cuts will be covered with furniture.

I hope that helps. I am not sure if I have a photo of that specifically, but feel free to ask questions.

Thank you. That will help. The area of concern is behind the kitchen counter and can be reached for patching and isn't really visible.

[Bubba L]

Brian, having the opportunity to source some quality wood makes a big difference. We’ll be using domestic Baltic birch. But even that is hard to find in a well made piece of plywood with hardwood plys in lieu of MDF. If you’ll go ahead and do your cabinet corners I won’t have to think as hard. Looking good. Bubba

[Venturewest]

I made a little more progress this weekend. It seems that none of the original cabinets and walls were square, plumb or level. Even though I am using the original rivet holes, i am constantly having to choose how to best compromise the fundamental principles of layout to make it all fit.

The 3 gauchos should go pretty quickly. I do have a few slides that are broken so I will have to do some re-engineering if I can’t source identical slides.

[dbj216]

I agree Airstreams are not square or plumb. I think way back when each trailer was "hand crafted" to fit. I'm having a hard time reassembling the bathroom in my Overlander for the same reasons. It just take patience and some custom adjustments.

Your trailer is looking very good indeed. You will be competitive with the Kansas City boys.

David

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Venturewest

Attachment 326609Attachment 326610

I made a little more progress this weekend. It seems that none of the original cabinets and walls were square, plumb or level. Even though I am using the original rivet holes, i am constantly having to choose how to best compromise the fundamental principles of layout to make it all fit.

The 3 gauchos should go pretty quickly. I do have a few slides that are broken so I will have to do some re-engineering if I can’t source identical slides.

If the gaucho slides are the all wood Walter of Wabash slides, they are available. They are also remarkably easy to make using a table saw only. I know they were original in our 66. Good luck, Bubba

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by Bubba L

If the gaucho slides are the all wood Walter of Wabash slides, they are available. They are also remarkably easy to make using a table saw only. I know they were original in our 66. Good luck, Bubba

Thanks Bubba,
I do have Walter of Wabash slides. I am going to borrow one good slide from the left front gaucho to complete the right front gaucho. I would like to create one large bed in the front when both gauchos are pulled to full extension. I either need one gaucho to far enough to span the extra distance, or I need a filler between the two gauchos. It is common practice to use the drop down table as the filler between bench seats. I will have to think a little more about this.

I also need to repair the back gaucho slides. These are triple slides that extend from 17" to 37" inches. This creates a 48" twin bed. If I can use some good sections from my longer from slides I may be able to repair the rear gaucho slides.

I haven't figured out how to take slides apart.

[Bubba L]

This morning I made a post on our rebuild thread showing how I made the wooden gaucho slides. I made four slides that are about 12” long. I will mount two of these on the front of both front gauchos. I will have a 3/4” x 1 1/2” trim board screwed to the end of, and connecting each pair of slides. When closed, it will look like a trim piece on the front. Each pair will slide out three inches to catch the dining table. At least that’s my plan. Good luck, Bubba

[Slats]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

Ron, I unfortunately no longer have the original sink.

Ron, I have a sink out of my '66 Tradewind I won't be using. You're welcome to it if it will fit your '68.

[Venturewest]

Today I had a few hours to knock another little item off the to-do list. I replaced the old vent cover with a new polycarbonate cover from VTS, and installed new weather stripping.

I wonder if this ever leaked! Hah.

I also discovered my new favorite way to clean up interior aluminum. I used Aluminum Brightener from Napa with a small amount of scrubbing with a gray 3m pad. I then followed up with truck box polish. I was amazed how the oxidation and even puts disappeared.

[Atomic_13]

Originally Posted by Slats

Ron, I have a sink out of my '66 Tradewind I won't be using. You're welcome to it if it will fit your '68.

Dale, don’t show him your fancy new sink. He’ll be jealous.

[Atomic_13]

Looking good, Ron! Thanks for sharing the secret sauce to shiny-ness.

[Venturewest]

Originally Posted by Atomic_13

Dale, don’t show him your fancy new sink. He’ll be jealous.

Now you have me curious.