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Old 06-06-2018, 07:44 AM   #81
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1968 24' Tradewind
parker , Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
If I were to begin a rant on my disdain for 1968 Central Control…

Thanks for your response. I appreciate your disdain for the CC. I do plan on keeping it, but purely for it's uniqueness. I don't plan to preserve functionality. I do plan on tapping in the wires below the CC to run to my new converter/ panel. I will probably go with a WFCO, similar to yours. I will also add a small digital voltmeter. I will probably hide all of the functional items inside my cabinet so that the interior looks original.


Your blue charge wire comes from the umbilical to a breaker hidden behind an access plate under the trailer. What's that clicking noise in the bellypan?? (Remove this breaker and securely reconnect blue wires. The breaker should be at the TV battery to protect charge wire's entirety.). Originally, from the old hidden under-trailer breaker, blue-wire goes to the fifty year-old electro-mechanical device inside CC that “automatically” connects or disconnects the TV battery to the TT battery, depending on the state of charge of the TV battery. Don't trust it. Use a Marine or Nascar battery switch.

I plan to tap directly into the blue wire and connect to my converter. I have a little research to do regarding how to do all this. I wired my own basement to code so I am sure I can figure it out. Where was your blue wire breaker located in the belly?

If you can give up the space wasting, absurd towel rack cabinet and CC, you could design a very much needed waist-high counter, atop a better fridge, needing no vent chimney, and a modern “all-in-one” converter/charger/ breaker/fuse panel that matches your battery charge requirements, and can integrate with a solar controller....

I would like to possibly add solar, and go with a small electric fridge. I am looking into this. 2- 100 Watt flexible panels would be plenty for my application
I have another question for you: As I mentioned, I would like to go with a small electrical fridge. I would build a small face frame cabinet to support the CC so the fridge could be removed at will. Did you add an electric fridge? I am thinking I will use a cheap mini fridge. There is one that is labeleled Magic Chef that I like and it has one of the lowest amp draws of any I have seen. I know these aren't rated for travel trailers, but at that price they wouldn't have to last 10 years. What fridge did you go with?

Thanks,
Ron
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Old 06-06-2018, 05:58 PM   #82
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Hi VentureWest: Electric fridges are less cost, but they are a pain when traveling. We like to stock the fridge before we pull out. Out food stays cold while traveling across the hot eastern Colorado plains as the fridge runs on gas. It may take a few hours to cool down an electric fridge once at a campsite. My son used to throw a block of ice in his electric fridge to keep it cool while traveling. He has since updated to a gas absorption type RV fridge.

There are these new fangled 12Vdc fridges with super efficient mini compressors that do not use the gas absorption process. I don't think they are cheaper than gas yet.

I guess it depends on your intended use of your Trade Wind.

David
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:14 PM   #83
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I kept my CC but spent a lot of time cleaning up the wiring. Had I removed the inside skins I might have gone modern but I am so glad I kept it. It is the first thing everyone who enters the trailer sees and all comment on it. The only switch that I use is the one for the water pump, but after cleaning it with DeOxit, it works fine and trips the relay without fail. The 120 outlet is handy for use as a charging station. I replaced the clock works with a set I got in the hobby section of Wally World. Kept the old analog look but now it keeps great time.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:22 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by 68 TWind View Post
I kept my CC but spent a lot of time cleaning up the wiring. Had I removed the inside skins I might have gone modern but I am so glad I kept it. It is the first thing everyone who enters the trailer sees and all comment on it. The only switch that I use is the one for the water pump, but after cleaning it with DeOxit, it works fine and trips the relay without fail. The 120 outlet is handy for use as a charging station. I replaced the clock works with a set I got in the hobby section of Wally World. Kept the old analog look but now it keeps great time.
I agree that people are fascinated by it. Mine is directly across from the door, so it is the first thing people see. They always want to know about it. (Of course it is the only thing in my Airstream right now!

I like the idea of using the water pump switch. I will backlight the clock display and update the clock like you did.
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Old 06-06-2018, 08:30 PM   #85
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Hi VentureWest: Electric fridges are less cost, but they are a pain when traveling. We like to stock the fridge before we pull out. Out food stays cold while traveling across the hot eastern Colorado plains as the fridge runs on gas. It may take a few hours to cool down an electric fridge once at a campsite. My son used to throw a block of ice in his electric fridge to keep it cool while traveling. He has since updated to a gas absorption type RV fridge.

There are these new fangled 12Vdc fridges with super efficient mini compressors that do not use the gas absorption process. I don't think they are cheaper than gas yet.

I guess it depends on your intended use of your Trade Wind.

David
If I go with an electric fridge, I would want to be able to run it any time I wanted using the solar. My initial idea is to install 2 -100 watt solar panels. I would use the flexible type and mount them with eternabond or something similar. I would then have a 1000 watt sine wave inverter to run the fridge and other 120v devices. I would have 1 or 2 batteries. I figure that the 2 panels will provide more juice than the fridge will draw, so it should never really even draw down the batteries. Pricing this option out is quite a bit less than buying a gas fridge and eliminates the vents, the gas line, and allows me to build a cabinet for the Central Control to sit on. They even have Magic Chef brand to match the original stove.

I am still looking into this. People say the residential fridges aren't designed to take the jouncing that travel trailers dish out, but at $150, I don't know if I am worried about it.
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:18 AM   #86
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Many have put residential fridges in their trailers. Check out J. Morgan's threads. He done just about the same thing your proposing. I'm doing the same also.
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:00 PM   #87
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I have this

SHP1712SDC-IS

http://www.avantiproducts.com/products/id/504

These super-conductor refrigerators don't work as well as expected. We eat mostly live foods, so keeping the roots and berries chilled is fine. It doesn't make ice. It keeps a pint of ½ and ½ alive for a few days of coffee. It's 12V DC or 120V AC. Has switch on back, re-wiring looks simple.

Like a Harbor Freight tool, really inexpensive, better than nothing, sorta works. It looks like a refrigerator, fills the hole. It's OK for now, but will probably install a danfoss drawer refrigerator if climate changes...
There's a cooler nearby if needed...

Matching 700W Avanti microwave actually works.

There's enough room inside central control to do whatever 12V you want. If keeping central control integrated, you don't need another 12V distribution, just a 120V breaker panel somewhere, and a converter/charger near CC and battery..

Minimally, your10 gauge stranded copper shoreline feeding 120V panel can have a 30A main, with four 20A breakers. Feeding 12G copper to... 1) Air Condition circuit, 2) existing appliance circuit, 3) dual fuel water heater, 4) dedicated electric space heat.

Access plate under trailer to umbilical “Splice-In” and Blue-wire breaker is about 8ft aft of the coupler. Mine's same side as Central Control(curbside). Guessing yours is streetside.


.
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Old 06-11-2018, 09:43 AM   #88
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Carleton , Michigan
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Glad to hear your realistic opinion about putting in an inexpensive electric Fridge into your trailer.

I am amazed at the people on the forums that spend years and years of their time and tens of thousands restoring a trailer- then drop in a Dorm Room refridgerator or a cassette toilet. I realize that at some point they need to stop the money bleed- but it will also severely effect the ability to resell the trailer.

Enjoying your thread.

Thanks,
Shawn
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Old 10-02-2018, 10:39 AM   #89
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Resurrection Photos

I had to take a little break from the restoration but now it is going back together. The The photos don’t really do justice to the beauty of the wood.

The closets are finished and installed. I am refinishing the gauchos, kitchen cabinet and the countertop. You can see that the particle board was in bad shape. I scraped off the loose material and then saturated the particle board with Smith’s penetrating epoxy. I will then use more epoxy to create a solid substrate. It’s a little bit of work but I think it’s worth it to preserve the original blue Formica top.

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Old 10-02-2018, 08:18 PM   #90
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Boy, that wood grain does look beautiful. I have to ask if it was original, or did you make new pieces.

My 66 standard model was just plywood. It was not particularly pretty. Maybe the internationals had better cabinetry, And of course, your trailer is a couple of years newer. However, I can tell you the cabinetry in my son's 69 Globetrotter is nothing to write home about.

The hickory cabinetry in my wife's 86 Limited is very nice. It is solid wood. One wardrobe door weighs about 20 pounds. This Airstream ain't a lightweight. The cabinetry had held up very well through the years. No warps or denominations that are common in the 70s trailers. Although my 75 Overlander International cabinets are in pretty good shape.

David
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:02 PM   #91
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Thanks David. It is the original wood. The wood was one of the primary reasons I fell in love with this Airstream. I believe the wood plywood is walnut. I had the owner of a wood veneer company ID it for me. The original owners manual also specifies walnut in the International models. It seems to have more character than modern walnut. I lightly sanded it and applied Watco Danish Oil in Dark Walnut. I am not sure if I will topcoat it with anything. It has a nice richness and depth. The solid wood cabinet frames seem to be another wood. I haven't figured out what they are yet. They seem to match the veneer pretty well when stained with the Watco.

There was some delamination around some of the bottom edges. I glued some of those loose layers back down. There are a couple of cabinet doors that are badly delaminated. I will have to apply new veneer or replace with new plywood.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:54 PM   #92
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The walnut plywood is indeed beautiful. It really sets the International model off from the regular Tradewind.

I am glad you were able to save the original particle board. Shame on Airstream for using this material. How many pennies do you think they saved?

Dan
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:22 PM   #93
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I don’t think I ever posted the finished cushions. I was able to use the original foams, after a ridiculous amount of scrubbing and drying. The upholsterer did such a great job. The material is similar to an Ultraleather.
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:34 PM   #94
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I don’t think I ever posted the finished cushions. I was able to use the original foams, after a ridiculous amount of scrubbing and drying. The upholsterer did such a great job. The material is similar to an Ultraleather.
Venturewest, you said the fabric was similar to Ultraleather. What type of material did they use? Reason I’m asking is we are ordering samples of different brands of faux leather. My wife is ready to start working on the cushions. Also, how well do you like the material you used? Appreciate your input, Bubba
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:43 PM   #95
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Venturewest, you said the fabric was similar to Ultraleather. What type of material did they use? Reason I’m asking is we are ordering samples of different brands of faux leather. My wife is ready to start working on the cushions. Also, how well do you like the material you used? Appreciate your input, Bubba
Hi Bubba, The fabric is from Keyston. They are a commercial/ wholesale upholstery distributor. I went in to the store and purchased through my upholsterer. I believe it is from the Open Road RV collection. My invoice says Oakley Buff Distressed Soft Touch PU. I haven't been able to cross reference it online. It is a faux leather, but feels really soft and not like a plastic vinyl.

I like the feel and look of it. I hope it holds up well. It has a high "rub" rating.
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Old 10-22-2018, 08:49 PM   #96
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Thank-you sir, I will check into it. Bubba
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:07 PM   #97
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The new inlets cover the old furnace exhaust holes. I need to still clean this up a little. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-23-2018, 05:57 PM   #98
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Thanks for the specs on the "ultra leather" you folks picked out. I have to do the same thing for my Overlander this winter as we will recover the gaucho.

Your's looks nice...

David
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:20 PM   #99
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Thanks for the specs on the "ultra leather" you folks picked out. I have to do the same thing for my Overlander this winter as we will recover the gaucho.

Your's looks nice...

David
Thanks David. If you intend to hire an upholsterer I would highly recommend the guy I used. He was 1/3 the price of another local guy. He does a lot of Aircraft and even car interiors. I am going to post another photo of the front cushions all put together. You can see the fabric hinges he did between the cushions, just like the factory.
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:22 PM   #100
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Here are another couple of photos of the cushions. This is both the front gaucho twins. You can see the fabric hinges configured like the original cushions. Click image for larger version

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My idea it to span the two twin beds to create one king size bed. The twins are only 6' long and the rear twin bed is 75" x 48". None of those are great options for adults. I think the front king will be amazing. I haven't decided how I am going to span the gap yet. Each twin pulls out to 33". I need to make up another 21" in the middle. Obviously I will need cushions, but also need to decide what the platform will be. I thought about adding drawer slides to one gaucho so that it pulls out all the way to the other gaucho. I have also thought about having the table drop into the space, much like the new dinettes are designed.

For now I think I will just refinish the existing gauchos and get them back in the Airstream. I can add the other options later, after I ponder some more.
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