You were wise to patch that piece of bad roofing. I mean it was really bad. I think a little bracing on the rear of the patch would stabilize the seams. Someone (two) has quite a few rivets to shoot.
David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
I haven't posted for so long I went back and re-read my thread. Ha! I was so far off base when I thought it was in good shape. Live and learn.
So, the bucking got finished. Then we went back over all the rivets on the roof with a fine toothed comb and resealed or replaced where needed.
Since the original a/c hole was patched and there are 3 existing holes in the roof we decided to move the a/c to the middle one. I'm losing a fantastic fan but Dave took the original fan apart and added it to the center of the solar dome vent. Another "ahaa" moment. The solar dome seemed odd anyway. There was no way to move air. We'll see if this works.
Then we went back over the floor plan. Since I had talked about making it a side bath at the beginning we are now so confused. So we took out the tape measure and painters tape and placed outlines on the floor. It helped a lot.
I decided to go with a Dickinson propane fireplace as I really hated the the forced air furnace in the Safari. Found it on sale at binnacle.com
It'll be mounted on the closet wall facing forward. While the skins were off we installed the chimney stack. Wish I had found something to make it stay straight. But, it happened too fast to research.
Used a layer of prodex and then some solid foam on the straight walls. Prodex and Roxul on the end caps and ceiling.
After the prodex was in Dave ran the wiring. Again, it was hard to remember where everything is going. But, the a/c wiring and drain kit are in. It's wired for solar for the future. Brakes and exterior wiring is complete.
Then the front cap went in. YAY.
Booo. We forgot how much room the shelf across the front takes up. I had taken it out on the Safari. Which was no easy task and not finished exactly symmetrical. So, we're rethinking the dinette and bed position. Again.
You are making great progress. There are a lot of hours between posts I'm sure. Electrical and plumbing are big systems to install. I gotta research that gas fireplace. Maybe a valid heating source for me. I've seen wood stoves in Airstreams. But they aren't for me.
It's fun to plan the interior of your trailer exactly the way you want it. I found out the hard way how much every piece interacts with another. I advise to spend time reviewing and reviewing again.
David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
David, I agree with the wood stove statement. We heated our house with one for 10 years and it worked, but it was work. Keeping the dirt down is hard enough in that small space.
I'm a bit concerned with getting the heat to the bathroom so I'm putting the Humphry gas light in there. Ambiance, light and heat?
My mouse paranoia runs deep. Since we're using rock wool in the walls I wanted to close up every place possible that will keep the mice out of the walls.
Took stainless hardware cloth and used it to close up the wiring holes and any gaps in c channel. Also made little bee guards for the vent stacks. We have bee hives and the swarms look for places like that.
The fireplace chimney will get one too. And I'd like to get/make a solid cover for it. It's a double wall and there are lots of places for lady bugs/stink bugs to get in to.
Because it's an impossibly tight fit through the garage door (see the steel support wheel photo) we can't install anything besides the vents on the roof until it's rolled out.
But, the fan supports are in, the a/c support and drain is installed and run to ground, the television support is in and secure.
The door has extra support around the knob. Hoping that helps secure the knob while closing the door from the inside. I still have a fear of pulling the handle off from the inside like I did on the '67.
Then on to Bondo. It's amazing how many holes are left over. I get along with bondo except it gives me wicked headaches. Which makes me more distracted and that's saying something. Dave and I had to double check each other every day to make sure all the holes were filled and the final rivets were in. But after rinsing off the walls last night I think we're ready.
I went with a linen texture glaze over paint last time and I still think it looks great so I'm going with it again. It hides all the smooth bondo surfaces and matches them to the zolotone texture. Unfortunately it's no longer in style and the glaze was hard to find. Benjamin Moore has it and I'm hoping it behaves as easily as the original.
Naively I thought we could reuse the original wood. But, I don't have enough woodworking experience to try and match and patch all the holes and dings in the original. So, switching to maple. Photos of the attached kitchen are just for reference.
The last photo is an example of what happens when you use duct tape on the trailer. Don't do it.
And the barn photo is what I'm thinking about doing for storage. Ingenious or ugly?
The last photo is an example of what happens when you use duct tape on the trailer. Don't do it.
And the barn photo is what I'm thinking about doing for storage. Ingenious or ugly?
The duct tape helped you to strip the coating, prior to polishing. You were planning on polishing, weren't you??
I like your storage idea. It's an ingenious use of two containers.
The door has extra support around the knob. Hoping that helps secure the knob while closing the door from the inside. I still have a fear of pulling the handle off from the inside like I did on the '67.
When I pulled the interior panel off my door I wondered what that reverse E was about. Glad I reinstalled it.
The door has extra support around the knob. Hoping that helps secure the knob while closing the door from the inside. I still have a fear of pulling the handle off from the inside like I did on the '67.
When I pulled the interior panel off my door I wondered what that reverse E was about. Glad I reinstalled it.
So when the skins were out and on the ground they were flat and even.
After they are installed (I helped the whole time) they are not.
All the rivet holes lined up, the insulation wasn’t past the ribs, I have no clue what happened. So out comes one whole ceiling. We’re going to look at it but I’m guessing it will need to be replaced. Ugh.
Any guesses why this happened? Do the rivets have to go in in a certain order?
Do you use .032 aluminum for the inner skins, too?
Just because I was trying to ignore it I painted it in the mean time. The glaze didn’t work this time either. I’m going to have to figure that out in the mean time. No zolotone means no texture.
It’s a darn good thing the ‘67 wasn’t this hard. I’d have never started another. Oh. Wait?
I wonder if there was some deflections in the body while being hung, and then wrestled back on. Maybe there is a rib, or "hoop" as I call them, that is ever so slightly not "as formed" any more. Maybe your trailer is slightly taller after the lift off. I am only speculating.
Maybe others will chime in if they had interior skins that didn't fit perfectly after a "full monte".
David
__________________
WBCCI #8607 VAC Region 11
KnowledgeBase trailer renovation threads: 69 Globetrotter, 76 Sovereign, 75 Overlander, 66 Trade Wind Such fun !
I wonder if there was some deflections in the body while being hung, and then wrestled back on. Maybe there is a rib, or "hoop" as I call them, that is ever so slightly not "as formed" any more. Maybe your trailer is slightly taller after the lift off. I am only speculating.
Maybe others will chime in if they had interior skins that didn't fit perfectly after a "full monte".
David
It's taking so long I forget that this is exactly above the new panel replacement. We must have moved something without realizing it.
Huh.
Haven't ordered the metal yet, will try unriveting today and see if that does anything.
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