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Bubba L · 01-01-2022, 05:28 PM

Your daughter’s welds (or yours) look a whole lot better than any of mine. I placed the subfloor on the 63 Bambi I’m working on. The friend that owns it rebuilt the chassis. Concerning the elevator bolts if you plan on using them, make sure you can get to the end of the bolt to install the washers/nuts. We had a few areas that were a challenge for the bolts. Your chassis is looking very well built. Nothing but fun. Have a great year and keep us posted.

dbj216 · 01-01-2022, 06:11 PM

You've been busy. It is a challenge to build a new frame that will fit the old shell (body). Welding is an acquired skill that takes serious practice. Gotta manage the "puddle" as they say. Your daughter is making very good welds for her age. Welding gifted so to speak.

Happy New Year and resolve to make your maiden voyage in the Trade Wind this year.

David

coloradoup · 01-01-2022, 08:25 PM

If the elevator bolts go on the out riggers I will have access. I haven't really studdied the bolts yet but thinking the self tappers go on the cross members and the bolts with nuts go on the out riggers? Not going with the sections of ply at the four foot joints so I used 2x3 and flushed all the cross members to the top surface. I'm using Coosa which is why I went with the 2x3s and not dropping the 4 foot cross members 3/4 inch. We will finish the front section tomorrow but can't put them together until I get the axels this week. My garage is only 21 feet deep and it's in the single digits this weekend so inside work only. Sure whish I had a shop. David, sounds like you didn't get hit with those fire storms so glad you guys made it through. Happy New Year!

Bubba L · 01-01-2022, 09:02 PM

I think the elevator bolts at the end of the outrigger is the most important. On the earlier trailers the bolt went through the C-channel and subfloor into the outrigger with the shell and belly pan riveted to the C-channel to help create the semi monocoque. A lot of people are using self tappers at the crossmembers with success. I did run a bead of polyurethane on the top of the chassis when I installed the plywood. That should eliminate floor squeaks. Glad you’re having fun. Take care and don’t freeze.

coloradoup · 01-02-2022, 05:15 PM

After an afternoon of welding, we now have the front section on. I wasn't sure I would be able to get the thing in the garage but with the little mud room area we have we were able to move some things around and get it inside. Now we will be able to continue with the work on our frame. Hopefully the axels do come this week.

What are people doing for tires these days? I purchased four new rims from VTS so need to start thinking about the tires.

coloradoup · 01-20-2022, 07:25 AM

After at least six months, my Axels have finally come in. I needed them to verify my measurements for the angle iron placement which was keeping me from continuing on with the welding.

I built a small gantry as well as removed some of the drywall on my garage ceiling beam so I could have something to mount my hoists to and rotate my frame.

coloradoup · 01-20-2022, 07:31 AM

I notched out my angle iron for my axel installation. I marked the location, then drilled holes at the corners on my drill press. I cut out the notches with my grinder / cut wheel to get the notches done. I considered renting a plasma cutter, but it turned out that this was a lot easier than I was thinking it would be.

coloradoup · 01-20-2022, 07:37 AM

My axels didn't come with any bolts. The notches for the bolts are 5/8 so I will go with that size. Do most people use lock washers or just locking nuts? I'm thinking about even welding some short bits just to keep them from moving anywhere over the years. Anyone with a cutoff wheel setup can break them loose whenever needed.

mrdes8 · 01-20-2022, 11:04 AM

Hi, I like grade 8, fine thread, 5/8 bolts and nuts, 1 flat washer and if you can find lock washers with serrations on them. For more safety blue or red locktite. Torque with 24" long 1/2" breaker bar. I like to try to make the fit of the axle to the cut-out to the frame rail as smooth and tight as I can, often grinding the welds on the axle smooth if they hit at all and keep the axle proud of the frame.
Good luck, Mark D

dbj216 · 01-20-2022, 06:36 PM

I also use 5/8" diameter fine thread grade 8 bolts with flat washers on both sides and a lock nut. I torque the bolts to 120 ft lbs. I hold the axle mounting brackets up tight against the frame rail with my floor jack, actually lifting the trailer off the jack stands on both sides by maybe 1/4". Then I tighten the bolts. I install the shocks over the mounting studs of the shock brackets on the axle, including the nuts, before installing.

You likely know you will likely have to deepen the axle plate clearance slots. If you ordered the "high profile" mounting bracket, you may not have to do this. I did not as I didn't know any better on my 66 Trade Wind. I made a template. The weight of the trailer is carried on the frame rail and top surface of the axle mounting bracket. The trailer weight is not carried on the axle mounting bolts.

I also used a 18ga wire located and clamped at the center of the ball receiver on the front of the trailer, and measured to the center of each front axle spindle to help assure the axles are square to the frame. I also measured the distance between axle spindles on each side so the rear axle was parallel to the front axle. The small gage wire will not sage or stretch increasing accuracy when pulled tight.

Such fun...

David

coloradoup · 01-20-2022, 09:07 PM

Thanks for all the great info. This forum is such a big help. I can't imagine doing all this without it!

coloradoup · 02-02-2022, 07:43 PM

I finally got around to removing the shell. I built the gantries to the specs that I found on these forums and the one thing I would say is the 12' posts aren't tall enough. After you put the chain hoists on, the shell doesn't quite clear the wheel wells and makes it a little difficult to pull the trailer out.

coloradoup · 02-02-2022, 07:53 PM

If anyone has a need for a 1966 TW frame my old one is actually in pretty good shape. The rear crossmember is rusted away but the rest of the frame seems to just have surface rust. The reason I built a new frame was that I was changing over to a mid-bath and wanted to add two grey tanks. My new tanks are 6 inches deep, and I wanted them to fit without sticking out the bottom. Additionally, I wanted a longer A frame up front to install the condenser for my mini split AC.

dbj216 · 02-03-2022, 06:57 PM

So where is the snow? Here is my 75 Overlander, but not too inviting for winter work. Although the snow is a good theft deterrent. It seems to me the 60's trailers have better luck with minimum frame rust compared to the 70s trailers. Maybe the new body style somehow allowed more water to leak in the frame area.

David

coloradoup · 02-03-2022, 09:52 PM

David if I had waited two days to take those pics you would have seen the snow!

coloradoup · 02-27-2022, 05:13 PM

Made a few holes for the AC line set to pass through.

coloradoup · 02-27-2022, 05:18 PM

Just about ready to start placing the Coosa board on. It's been fun to work on the frame but I'm ready to move on. Let's see, which frame should I use?

coloradoup · 02-27-2022, 05:20 PM

If anyone needs a 66 Tradewind frame my old one isn't really that bad. I hate to just scrap the thing.

Atomic_13 · 03-07-2022, 02:52 PM

The new frame is looking awesome Mike. The coosa blue water floor and new heavy gauge wheel wells are icing on the cake.

LLninja · 03-07-2022, 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coloradoup

If anyone needs a 66 Tradewind frame my old one isn't really that bad. I hate to just scrap the thing.

I’m working towards getting my belly pan off of my 66 Tradewind and so far my frame looks pretty good. But if I find some rusted through spots I might be interested in your frame… I just don’t know yet.