Dale and Terry get a '66 Tradewind

[cwbiii]

Here are various pictures of my tanks installed from all directions, plus a picture of the fan installed and operational.

Chuck

[cwbiii]

The hidden up lighting I finished this week along with a near perfect systems test. All DC, 110v, feed and drain plumbing, and appliances.
It's really coming along though I'm not going to push to get it out this month unless it just happens.

Chuck

[dbj216]

It's always "interesting times" when you energize a new system for the first time. I had one drain piping leak, at the difficult shower trap wouldn't you know it. I had three fresh water leaks, all of them were darn pipe threads (which I find a very inadequate design). My 12v rewire want okay, but the SeeLevel monitor was irratic. SeeLevel helped me diagnose "voltage ripple" out of my old DC converter. A new converter solved the problem. But I had a bunch of propane system leaks. I think I need a new flaring tool, or I need to switch to compression fittings. I figured what could be easier than sealing 2 psi gas pressure with a flared joint. (I worked with high pressure hydraulics for 26 years.) I finally got them all sealed up. Thank goodness propane gas stinks like the dickens. I would soap the joints, no bubbles, and then smell gas later.

So Kansas City Slats. Be looking forward to the "acid test" when you get all your plans built and pressurize it for the first time. It is disappointing to have to do "rework" to get leaks stopped or other problems fixed. But it is just part of the "fun". And be sure to test before you do final assembly. No one likes taking the belly pan back off to solve a holding tank leak.

David

[Slats]

My frame is sitting in line at a place called Bare Metal, waiting to have its rust removed. Some parts will have to be replaced, or at least braced.

Looks like I will be purchasing a mig welder and learning how to use it. My older brother spent 20 years on a nuclear sub and had to do a lot of fairly precise welding during that time. I'm looking forward to learning from him. Or letting him do it.

But all this is taking the back seat for a while as my wife undergoes chemo and radiation treatments for throat cancer.

[dbj216]

Our prayers are with your wife for a speedy and complete cure. Stay positive during all these treatments as a positive outlook is one of the better therapies. It won't be too long before you and your wife are out traveling in that vintage Airstream.

David

[Slats]

Originally Posted by dbj216

It won't be too long before you and your wife are out traveling in that vintage Airstream.

.........with a Ford New Holland Tractor Blue frame. Gotta love that Tractor Supply store.

[Snailer]

Hey David would you have a link to your bathroom floor replacement [any threads or photos]. Just dug all the squirrel nests, old battery & crud from my rear compartment and looks like I will be replacing the bathroom floor. In fact its actually a blessing as I want to do a full job on the bathroom anyway.
Steve

[dbj216]

I never did a Trade Wind project thread like I recommend others do. My bath floor was rotted out. The toilet and black tank broken. And the old copper plumbing a mess. There was no water heater, furnace, or fridge. Why did I buy this trailer?

I took lots of photos both before and after. I wanted a functional and reliable trailer. I did not consider restoring to original factory specs. I didn't like the small black tank, I didn't like the "one stop service compartment" where you had to get on your hands and knees to connect the sewer hose or fresh water hose. And I didn't need a bathtub.

Here is the sketch I made as I began to consider how all the pieces might work together. I selected below floor waste water tanks that meant the toilet had to be between the frame rails. I used the existing roof vents for my tanks and drain plumbing. And I installed a new water heater under the street side twin bed. Wally Byum's "see through trailer" with the large window in the bathroom I never did fully understand. But that big window in the bath sure restricts what could be done. And the spherical end caps makes fitting cabinets more challenging.

You are beginning a big project. It is possible to replace the bath subfloor without lifting the shell.

Have fun,

David

[Snailer]

Slats, sorry I hadn`t read all the postings above, all our prayers with your wife. Thanks again David, I have average building & finishing skills, much better demolition skills , But I have the great advantage of being friends with one of the best trailer restorers around. I have an idea what I would like but I am sure when he sees it we will be doing something more.

[Slats]

I'm getting back on track, picking up some marine plywood tomorrow. Here's what I'm wondering.

Having ignored all the advice about making a pattern - before removing the shell - to use later in cutting out the end sections of the subfloor, here's my plan:

(1) lay the new plywood sections on the frame;

(2) drill up through the plywood through the bolt holes on the edge of the outriggers;

(3) bolt the c-channel on;

(4) trace around the outside edge of the c-channel with a carpenter's pencil;

(5) remove the c-channel;

(6) put the plywood on some saw horses; and

(7) saw away with my new Harbor Freight hand-held jig saw.

Sound like a plan? Anyone want to shoot it down?

[cwbiii]

I did similar...except I bolted it down and sawed it in place with a sawzall and skillsaw.
Skillsaw for the straight parts...sawzall for the curves. The plywood extends out about a half inch or so past the ends of the ribs on my 68 so no issue with hitting the metal with a saw. I used a piece of straight wood screwed down as a guide for my saw on the straight edges. I used a compass to mark out the radii for the 4 corners. Worked like a charm.

Chuck

[Slats]

Progress is being made. The new axles are mounted and aligned. Two wheels sandblasted and painted, with the other two going to the sandblaster today. One section of the interior wall thoroughly cleaned by laying it out on the deck and scrubbed with Comet cleanser and a stiff brush.

The axle adventure is worth noting. After reviewing a bunch of axle tales on this forum, I flipped a coin and went with one of the two most-mentioned suppliers. I was advised that the new axle brackets would bolt directly to one hole in the existing plate, but that a new hole would have to be drilled for the other. After jacking one axle into position, I found that neither bracket hole aligned with either frame plate hole.

Well, there is a little trailer supply business that I have driven by every Saturday on my way to and from my Tradewind project. So I decided to stop by and see if anyone there could help me. I spoke with a guy named Joe who works there.

I'm sure all of you have run across a guy like Joe from time to time, a guy with an unmistakable air of confidence, competence and authority, all tempered by just the right dose of humility. In other words, a man of few, but carefully chosen, words, a bit blunt and to the point.

After describing my problem and the complicated solution that had come to me in a vision while on my morning run earlier in the week, Joe just looked me squarely in the eye and said, "I think you're overthinking it."

So I drove on to my project, tossed one of my new axles into my pickup, hooked up my frame and towed the whole mess back to Joe for his eyeball take on the situation. After a quick look he gave me a few brief pointers on how to solve my problem. Whereupon, I ask the only sensible question I could think of at the moment, that is, "How much would you charge to do that for me?" He said, "$300." I said, "Deal."

This morning I will pick it up. Because it took less time than Joe had estimated, the charge is only $150.

By the way, Joe showed me his Dexter catalogue and dryly observed that he could have ordered my axles with the proper brackets. So much for the internet. His company is a family-owned local business that goes back 40 years. Lesson learned.

Pictures to follow.

[dbj216]

I really admire those skilled trades folks who can make almost anything. You are lucky to find him, and I'll bet you will use him again.

I had to drill new bolt holes for my Axis axles too. I knew I would when I purchased them. I read the 70s trailers are more standard than the 60s. I don't know if there are design standards for axle mounting bracket patterns. I made a template for the hole pattern with respect to the "U" slot, and then drilled all four mounting patterns. Drilling 5/8" holes in that old steel took a lot of pushing with my 1/2" drill. I was a good couple of afternoons getting my new axles mounted.

David

[Slats]

Here is one of my refurbished wheels with a new tire mounted on it. The two pictures of an interior wall section show the before halves after cleaning one-half. They sure are easier to clean when you can simply lay them on your deck, get down on your hands and knees and scrub away with maximum elbow grease.

[streaming24]

Your zolatone literally looks like night and day. Aside from the elbow grease, what cleaner did you use? Did the cleaning affect the z finish or just clean it? Are you planning to keep the original zolatone or are you going to repaint?

I have a '60 T/W and just started cleaning my interior with Simple Green. After only first pass, not as much progress as it looks like you had. I am hoping to reinstall the panels (after trailer rebuild) and use the original zolatone.

[Slats]

I just used Comet cleanser and water. It did not hurt the zolatone at all.

I plan to paint it. I have these grand visions of an interior incorporating Tuscan hues. It will probably end up just being white or extremely light gray, maybe with the slightest tinge of olive.

We'll see.

[dbj216]

My 66 Trade Wind has vinyl clad aluminum interior skins. The front endcap is ABS molded, and the rear bath endcap is fiberglass molded. I don't think I have any zolatone paint in my trailer. I think the vinyl clad interior skins are great. They wear very well, and are easy to clean. Earlier 60s trailers certainly did have the zolatone paint in the interior.

David

[Slats]

Originally Posted by dbj216

My 66 Trade Wind has vinyl clad aluminum interior skins. The front endcap is ABS molded, and the rear bath endcap is fiberglass molded. I don't think I have any zolatone paint in my trailer. I think the vinyl clad interior skins are great. They wear very well, and are easy to clean. Earlier 60s trailers certainly did have the zolatone paint in the interior.

David

I guess I don't know vinyl from zolatone. Or that other stuff from shinola, for that matter. Because my Tradewind is a '66 like yours, David, I assume the stuff I scrubbed is vinyl. But I still want to paint it. I like to have a little fun with colors, as you might have guessed from all the Ford New Holland Tractor blue you see on my frame and wheels. I think I'll fill in the groove in the trim piece that flows back from the flag on the side to the rear with that color as well.

[Slats]

By the way, David, did you replace or repair your stove and/or refrigerator?

[dbj216]

Hi slats, I should think the vinyl cladding will accept paint well. It has a rough texture in my trailer. I'm not much of the artistic type and don't have much of an artistic imagination. But I've seen some very nicely decorated Airstreams in these Forums.

I bought my trailer without gas appliances. The previous owner had a fear of carbon monoxide poisoning and took them all out. They used the camper as a aluminum tent with water and electricity only. I purchased a three burner cooktop, and I installed a convection / microwave oven below it. We don't do elaborate cooking while camping, and we don't do a lot of boondocking. I installed a new furnace, fridge and water heater too.

David