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TomW · 11-19-2007, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

... Is it possible that there is a flaw in the wiring that is resulting in insufficient current reaching the stereo that I should look for? ...

The wire itself is most likely in good condition. Suspect are the unions made anytime the wire was spliced to feed a given light or outlet.

Low-voltage-high-current applications, such as your 12 VDC circuit, as particularly susceptible to poor performance if wirenut connections are not clean & tight. While the Tradewind's wire nuts are probably still tight, the wires joined together underneath may have oxidized. Oxidation means resistance. Resistance means a poor connection.

I recommend pulling the wire nuts off of every connection and sanding the wire ends with 400 grit sandpaper until the ends are bright and shiny. The wire nuts in your Airstream, at a minimum, will be found in the ceiling above each light fixture or fan. More than likely, the unions will be found at each 12 VDC device.

FWIW, some of the connections underneath the wirenuts in my Overlander were green and had flaky crap on them before cleaning.

Tom

Phil Gobie · 11-19-2007, 04:25 PM

I had problems that turned out to be the speakers grounding out to the shell. I thought it was the electric feed and did allot of unnecessary work before I checked the speaker wire connectors on the speakers. Good luck Phil

Boondocker · 11-20-2007, 08:12 AM

Thanks guys, I will have to give that a whirl.

Boondocker · 01-19-2008, 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

Another coat of polyurathane on the folding table this afternoon and some plumbing progress. One feature I am adding is a valve in the cold water line to allow cold water in the kitchen during cold weather without charging the lines to the rear of the camper. Of course there will be no hot water and water for the toliet will have to be transported by pan, but this should keep the kitchen semi-operable in cold weather.

.... We have had several nights in the low teens and I have been ok. The water tank is under the front gaucho and by opening air flow around it and opening the cabinet doors I seem to be getting by pretty good. Wish me luck

Boondocker · 08-30-2008, 04:37 PM

One of the items on this winters list is cutting off the infamous "ugly box". Doing this will require moving the gray tank and shore power. I'm thinking above the axles for the gray tank but I am at a loss about moving the shore power connection. Any ideas?

Zeppelinium · 08-30-2008, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

...require moving ... shore power. ...I am at a loss about moving the shore power connection. Any ideas?

Rodney, post a photo of your current connection. Moving it shouldn't be that big a deal.

Zep

Boondocker · 08-30-2008, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

Rodney, post a photo of your current connection. Moving it shouldn't be that big a deal.

Zep

you can see it on the ugly box

overlander63 · 08-30-2008, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

you can see it on the ugly box

You would normally have the shore power connection inside the rear compartment hatch, which the Ugly Box now sits in front of. You could move it back inside the compartment where it would normally be, and drop the electric cord down through the rear bumper compartment. If that's where the grey tank is, you can always route the cable around the tank.

Boondocker · 08-30-2008, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by overlander63

You would normally have the shore power connection inside the rear compartment hatch.....

So the plug is inside the camper then? I thought I was going to have to mount something external.

overlander63 · 08-30-2008, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

So the plug is inside the camper then? I thought I was going to have to mount something external.

You can mount the connector inside, and plug the umbilical into it. That way, if the umbilical ever gets damaged, you simply replace it, with no rewiring needed.

Boondocker · 04-24-2009, 06:30 PM

The wind killed the small side window by the door today. Vintage trailer supply's website shows them as very expensive and out of stock. Anyone know where one can be had in a hurry?

Inland RV Center, In · 04-24-2009, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

The wind killed the small side window by the door today. Vintage trailer supply's website shows them as very expensive and out of stock. Anyone know where one can be had in a hurry?

We have the tempered glass windows for the 66, 67 and 68's.

Airstream had them made for us.

Andy

Boondocker · 04-27-2009, 11:21 AM

The result. Thomas Giffith in Oklahoma City did the work. The door was missing so he built a new one, and because of the damage done attaching the ugly box to the body, patches were added to each side of the door. Looks good though I think.

vswingfield · 04-27-2009, 01:31 PM

It's looking good Rodney. The end of the semester is closing in, I know you are looking forward to that.

My 67 Trade Wind has a dent severely in about a foot from the street side frame rail. It looks like we have one good bumper between the two of us.

3Ms75Argosy · 04-27-2009, 06:42 PM

Yeah! Looks much better.... going to shorten that bumper now?

Marc

Boondocker · 04-27-2009, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Yeah! Looks much better.... going to shorten that bumper now?

Marc

Probably at some point, maybe when I replace the bumper. Frankly, I have so much money in repairs this spring and more that has to be done in the next week, that shortening the bumper may end up on next years list.

clydecrashcu · 10-26-2009, 07:04 AM

I just read the original post and others that followed. The box on the end reminds me of the older cars and the trunks that were added for travel.

As someone posted you can do what ever you like since it is your trailer. I like the uniqueness of the box, that way people will recognize your trailer as being yours. Most vintage owners try to do something to make the trailer uniquely theirs. Your have yours already built in.

I have a California Custom 64 Corvette and it has many unique features. The purest say I should return the car to its original style. I like it since it is probably one of the few left since everyone wants to put their car back to its original body. People will recognize mine as mine since it is not like the rest even though people add wheels, color, etc. Many opinions on my car and your trailer.

Enjoy your trailer.

Boondocker · 10-26-2009, 07:50 AM

I cant recommend strongly enough against adding a box to the back of your camper. It destroyed the back end of mine. After I removed the box this spring and had the rear end separation repaired, I have had little money left over for more improvements. Over the summer my mom sewed a new set of curtains which really helped. While at the balloon rally the original front vent and rear vent with fan were replaced with fantastic fans. I had the front one installed and struggled through the second installation myself. Since then, there have been a couple rains with no leaks so I remain optimistic.

This spring I got caught on the edge of a whale of a hail storm. Three inch (yes, three inch) hail took out one of the curved windows ($200 IF you can find the replacement) front vent, and knocked several holes in the AC cowl. Could have been much worse. I am also waiting for Vintage Trailer on the curved glass and on the replacement front window rock guard. Eventually the bummer will have to be cut down to the original length and a new gray tank installed over the axles. A few plumbing issues also remain.

The great polish job of two years ago is history, to many weeks sitting on the beach did it in I'm afraid. Since I plan on going to the beach in November and again over the winter I doubt I will start polishing it again until spring. In the mean time, she is operational and I'm not going to sit at home wishing I was camping.

Inland RV Center, In · 10-26-2009, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen Disarray

This spring I got caught on the edge of a whale of a hail storm. Three inch (yes, three inch) hail took out one of the curved windows ($200 IF you can find the replacement) front vent, and knocked several holes in the AC cowl. Could have been much worse. I am also waiting for Vintage Trailer on the curved glass and on the replacement front window rock guard. Eventually the bummer will have to be cut down to the original length and a new gray tank installed over the axles. A few plumbing issues also remain.

The great polish job of two years ago is history, to many weeks sitting on the beach did it in I'm afraid. Since I plan on going to the beach in November and again over the winter I doubt I will start polishing it again until spring. In the mean time, she is operational and I'm not going to sit at home wishing I was camping.

Tempered glass for the 66 to 68 trailers is currently available.

Andy

Boondocker · 11-25-2009, 11:58 AM

Since I expect to be in Middle Tennessee for a couple months, I have decided to do some major dry dock work. Here is what is on the agenda:
The priority items
1. Replace old Dometic AC with new Carrier 13, 500 btu low profile unit with heat strip.
2. Cut down ugly box frame extension and get rid of twisted bumper.
3. Replace bumper. May try new one from Vintage Trailer Supply. Airstream Bumper
4. Install 30 gallon grey tank behind or above axels. Need vendor for tank and ideas about how to do this one.
5. Install new power supply attachment. Marinco 30A Stainless Inlet
6. Install furnace (needs new rack to hold it into place) and thermostat.
7. Polish- trying Jestco this time.
8. Replace front and rear name plates from VTS
9. Install Centromatric wheel balancers. Who has these, I have also read about some BB kind of device that does the same thing. Ideas?
10. Replace window and door gaskets
11. Replace door lock bolt. Vibration had cut into the bolt, maybe the striker plate needs replaced too?
12. Fix bent dropping door step.
13. Paint A frame and hitch.
The maybe list
1. Finish trim work inside.
2. Install BAL stabilizers. I really don’t know much about these except that I don’t want to keep using the screw jacks forever. Is BAL the best way to go, who are the better vendor choices?
3. Install water heater. I’m not sure what’s in there now, but I’m thinking a six gallon heater would be more than sufficient. What are the considerations I should be thinking about? Is there any advantage with choosing Atwood vs. Suburban? Elect ignition vs. pilot?

It’s a lot to do, but it pretty much all needs done. The AC is ordered everything else I am comparing vendors and such right now, but expect to start ordering soon. So if anyone has tips or ideas now is the time to chime in.