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Old 01-24-2006, 10:46 AM   #41
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It's a drill job. Could be either 1/8" or 3/16" pop rivits. Buy a bunch of extra bits. First, you'll have to drop the propane lines which are attatched with rubber-grommetted clips held with screws. The side panels overlap at the sides and tend to spring out when the rivits are removed - be careful. When you reinstall the underbelly, use 3/16" wide-flange pop rivits (available at a good industrial supply store) to give a little more support to the aluminum. There's probably some corrosion around the existing rivits and the larger flange will give a better grip. Start by raising the trailer as high off the floor as you can or you're going to have a sore back and bumps on the head!
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Old 02-25-2006, 12:15 PM   #42
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1968 24' Tradewind
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I got the sad looking awing blues

The Trade Wind came from the PO with a dometic awning. It looks sketchy to me, in fact, to me it looks toasted. I havent worked up the nerve to even open it up yet. Am I correct in thinking these ends ought not look like they do? Is this repairable or is it just toast?
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Old 02-25-2006, 01:49 PM   #43
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More missguided ideas on my part...

Right now the battery for my Trade Wind is on the curb side in the very rear of the coach and the univolt is under the bathroom sink (red arrow), I dont like the weight being there so I was thinking it could be moved to the street side just behind the axels under the double bed (Green arrow). There is access via an outside hatch/door and I belive it would accomadate maybe a 21 x 14 inch battery (Im thinking one of those glass matt jobs).

What am I getting into if I do this move? can the univolt stay where it is now? can I just run wires from the battery to the new location to where the battery is now? Ideas anyone?
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Old 02-25-2006, 04:06 PM   #44
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Battery move

Rodney, The battery on my 1967 Safari "Landshark" is in the exact place you want to move yours to! The access door was put there to access the battery. The previous owner must have moved it when they put their own mods on your coach...ie {ugly box}. Mine has a vent hose through the floor to off gas the battery... no vent. The only thing I can think that would be affected is re-wiring for the battery connections to the univolt. Ed
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:58 AM   #45
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Is there any way this is right?

I have been reading about how wonderfull the agm batteries are and thought maybe that is what I should get. I figure I want the biggest for the space so what I come up with is this:The lifeline GPL-8DL 20 inches x 11 inches, 162 pounds!

http://www.lifelinebatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=8

Then I find out these puppies run about $450-500!!!!!! OUCH can that be right? Are they really worth that much? I boondock when I can so extra power is nice, however, this seems like a pretty expensive way to go. Anybody out there use these things? Should I just use regular deep cycles from Walmart instead?
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:20 AM   #46
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Awning, Battery, and rear-end problems...ha-ha

Hey, I have a 68' also and like Rodney have the battery in the back, accessable through the rear access door. It looks to have been vented as well, so could that mean it was meant to be there? There is a small circle to the outside above the license plate that it was vented through (I think).

My coach is completely gutted and I'm futzing around with replacing pieces of rotten plywood. I am soooo glad I decided to remove everything, it really exposed hidden problems!! Like the entire rear floor was compost and the box that held the b/w tank was totally rusted out!

I have a small feeble looking "c" track above my door, along the length (almost) of the trailer; is this for the awning? I don't have any idication of attatched support bars to the skin of the trailer. Rodney's looks to have fold out legs to hold it up??

Rear-end rehab: I'm thinking about having a galvenized box made to seal the battery and storage area to the outside. I would Route the plumbing on/off and pressure regulater through the box to access from the outside. I was thinking this would keep the battery more sepate from the interior and the weather out as well. The "box" would be on its side with the "top" attatched the frame of the access area. (am i making any sense?)
I'm also thinking about attatching hinges to the tops of my access doors to keep them in place. Any thoughts

I have no ideas on batteries, what's a gel cell, how different are they and $$?
P.S. I have the univolt (&refer) out and am wondering how to pass it on? any suggestions?
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Old 02-26-2006, 10:46 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast

I have a small feeble looking "c" track above my door, along the length (almost) of the trailer; is this for the awning? I don't have any idication of attatched support bars to the skin of the trailer. Rodney's looks to have fold out legs to hold it up??
Dont quote me on this but I think it is the case that the trailers were made with awnings that detached completely and had to be attached (in the c track) every time. If I am correct, they also had "stand alone" poles to hold up the perimeter of the awning.

I didnt really follow your plans for the box all that well, maybe a diagram or something would help.... Anyway, enjoy that coach! and pics are great if you have them!1
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Old 02-26-2006, 09:03 PM   #48
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Awning mount rail

SequoiaCoast, That rail... Is... for the awning to mount to. I think it is a Carefree awning. I believe if you do a search you will find info on awnings that have deployed or have been damaged while traveling that seems to indicate the need for a way to secure these older style awnings while traveling. The type of awning may still be available through some classified ads but the dealers no longer support the older awnings they used to sell. "Can you say"....Planned obsolescence!..."I knew you could!" I'm sure you could get a new awning installed on your trailer from almost any RV store/service center. The Zip Dee Awings were not installed from the Airstream factory until the Early 70s' trailers from what Zip Dee customer service told me when I was researching awnings. The one I have on my coach from the factory in 1967 is a Carefree of Colorado. There were some earlier ones available but I didn't check them out as well since I found out mine was a Carefree. Hope this helped you. Ed
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Old 02-27-2006, 09:39 AM   #49
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Come on folks....

I cant believe nobody has weighed in on the awning pics in post #42. What do you think, is that seperation of the endcaps and shroud ok? Not ok, but repairable? Will opening the awning cause astroids to pelt the earth? Have any of you had this type awning?
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Old 02-27-2006, 10:30 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
I cant believe nobody has weighed in on the awning pics in post #42. What do you think, is that seperation of the endcaps and shroud ok? Not ok, but repairable? Will opening the awning cause astroids to pelt the earth? Have any of you had this type awning?
Rodney, if you try to use it and it doesn't work, toss it and get a Zip-Dee. The A&E's are not worth repairing, as the parts to repair them are NLA.
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Old 02-27-2006, 12:15 PM   #51
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regarding batteries: Rodney, I just get the vanilla deep discharge units from Costco. They used to sell a 105 AH for $47, but now all that's available is 85 AH for $45 or 115 AH for $57. The 115AH battery is BIG and I don't think it will fit in a standard battery compartment. I have two 105AH batteries in the back end of my Caravel. The Overlander (27') has two battery compartments, one an after market box with outside door, and I have the same batteries there. I like these cheapies because (1) I spend a lot of time in the dessert, (2) when home I'm hooked up almost all the time and (3) I am the world's worst when it comes to checking on water level, so I ruin them as often as possible.

I did get an Intelli-Power Charge Wizard for the Caravel and water useage is better, so I'm putting one into the Overlander. I'm going to have a couple of spare original converters if anyone is interested and can pay the shipping! I love the Intelli-Power, at 7 pounds versus 45 it makes me feel good.
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Old 04-02-2006, 11:01 AM   #52
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Good News!

Last fall was my first attempt at winterizing. I had to do it in a rush one evening as an unexpected winter storm was expected to drop temps in to the teens. To make things worse, was catching a flight out early the next morning for a conference.I was not at all sure I did it correctly. Suffice it to say I have spent the winter with more than a little apprehension over wether I had done the job correctly and if I would be replumbing the entire Trade Wind this spring.

Yesterday, I moved the camper out to a campground where I will be living for the next month or so and finally worked up the nerve to give the water system a whirl…….IT WORKED **** insert happy dancing here*****.

I also worked up the nerve to open the sketchy awning. It works albeit in a rough manner. I think at some time in the past maybe a stiff wind did a job on it. It was difficult to deploy and doesn’t store as smoothly as it should but I am hopeful that I will be able to repair it as I like the pattern, not to mention how much a new one would cost me.

I attached a couple images of the airstream at my campsite, it is still rough as I haven’t gotten everything situated.
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Old 04-02-2006, 02:27 PM   #53
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You may keep the awning longer than you expected

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gen Disarray
... I also worked up the nerve to open the sketchy awning. ...
I remember the feeling well. FWIW, my awning is still serving us well.

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Old 04-02-2006, 07:28 PM   #54
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I am so jealous - It looks awesome! I can't wait till I'm there. Congrats on the plumbing. I keep tripping over mine... in a wrangled mess next to the trailer!
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Old 04-02-2006, 08:38 PM   #55
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After all the fun I had putting a new awning on my 75, I thought for sure you were going to be next! Trust me, you just saved yourself over $1000. What are you going to spend it on?
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Old 04-03-2006, 06:06 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
............you just saved yourself over $1000. What are you going to spend it on?
The way I have it figured the money saved is worth about a tank of gas and a big gulp at todays prices ($2.51/gal). The awning looks nice but it is going to need some rehabing anyway.
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Old 04-10-2006, 10:40 AM   #57
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Suggestions for a replacement antenna?

Any suggestions for a replacement TV antenna? The Trade Wind has one of the forward mounted brackets with a hand crank inside for tuning. I know several of you have the 'batwing' type. Has anybody hooked one of these up on a mount like mine? Or is there a better option? Thanks
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Old 04-12-2006, 07:19 PM   #58
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You will not be disappointed in the batwing for several reasons. It is a good antenna with good receptiton, and wide availabilty of parts. It rides and stores nicely.
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Old 05-25-2006, 07:37 AM   #59
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Does anybody know what size black tank the 68's came with?
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Old 05-31-2006, 08:00 AM   #60
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Window question.

Last night the window next to the door fell off. As good fortune has it, it was not damaged as far as I can tell. After inspection, it appears that it should have 3 screws attaching it to the upper portion of the window frame (the section forming the hinge). Is this correct? If so, what size and type screw do I need to replace it with? Also any other general window maintance thoughts/inspection tips would be welcome. Thanks!
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