Now It Starts... Rebuild of Audrey

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by islandtrader

I remember seeing that on your build page...If you don't mind repost some pictures and the track mfg. here. I know when I looked at it I liked it, but could not figure out the track set up.

Kent, l’ll get you the information. Take care

[islandtrader]

Ordered some f channel from vts. What a PIA. I would give me. 75% success . This is in the back part so I’m not ultra concerned.

The front area I have to do a 90%...

[Hittenstiehl]

Have not heard of f channel before. I'm sure that letter refers to the profile. Where is F predominantly used? Or is that the word you were using while trying to work with it :-)

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl

Have not heard of f channel before. I'm sure that letter refers to the profile. Where is F predominantly used? Or is that the word you were using while trying to work with it :-)

I guess you would call it a bulk head wall moulding. Used to fasten the 1/4 inch plywood to the inside skin of the trailer...YES I DID use the F word..only once!

Called F channel because it looks like it...same as C or U channel.

[Bubba L]

Dan, that F channel seems about half tempered. I had a heck of a time, not only bending it but keeping it on the template while bending. I see you used stop blocks which sure makes it a bit easier. On the edge toward the inside of the cabinet, I drilled a few holes in the channel and placed a 3/8” pan head screw just to hold things until against the wall. May not be able to do that with 1/4” ply. I used 3/8” that I ran a dado along the edge to get the channel to fit.
Also, don’t know if I sent you the type of barn door hardware I used for the rolling bath door. We bought the hardware from The Hardware Hut. It’s adjustable. Take care

[islandtrader]

On my previous post I went through the agony of trying to bend a F channel. And stated 75% success.

What I learned on the second try is to use the big radius buck and start from the middle to get a gentle curve. After that I then cut a smaller radius curve and started doing very small increment bends. After each one a trip to the trailer and then marked the area that showed a flat spot and heated that up and did a small bend. I think I must of made 30 little tweaks before I said good enough. I was shooting for 90% and I feel like I got there. Now the wall comes out and gets white washed. Then all the Curb side wood is done and gets clear coated soon.

[islandtrader]

We picked a formica heavy duty non glare for our counter tops.

Just used weld bond contact cement and a couple of scrap boards and done. My trim router took a dive, so I thought I would give Rigids new cordless trim router a try. Most of my battery tools are rigid so I have plenty of spares. The router worked very well. I don't think you would want to use it on anything but trim ...not enough horse power.

Ordered up some aluminum trim from VTS. It bent nicely using a dead blow hammer. The screws supplied are kind of funky, so I ordered up some S/S ones from Amazon.

Still need to clear coat the bathroom panels. Just waiting for a non windy day.

[islandtrader]

Such a Fun Job...terminating DC wires...

[islandtrader]

Finally got my power center mostly done. I used an old cigar box to house my DC switches and battery monitor. I have had that box for a long time...thinking that I could use it for something. Never had any idea that it would be perfect for this type of application.
The power center houses the main AC panel,DC panel, surge protector, and a 4 stage-converter.
Sliding, 1/4 inch plexi doors to cover it, but not hide it.
There was a lot of things going on here...but I think I got it nailed down. The battery on off switch will be installed after the batteries are installed. Batteries will be installed directly below the power center.

All of the walls are done, just need to install them...easier to work inside without them so they will most likely be the last thing to get attached. Water heater and propane lines are most likely the next thing to attend too.

[coloradoup]

Looks really clean and tidy! Nice work.

[islandtrader]

Today I decided in case I need to move the Airstream in a hurry (think hurricane) I should really tidy up my trailer wire connections. I choose a junction box type connection, to my way of thinking this works a lot better than having a direct or quick connects. I suppose it is a matter of choice.

Seven pin terminal box.



After I attach the propane tanks I will make sure the wiring is clamped down and stays out of the way.

[truckasaurus]

That all looks really tidy. Have you found a decent break away switch? (I used a VTS one and it looks bad already).

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

That all looks really tidy. Have you found a decent break away switch? (I used a VTS one and it looks bad already).

No need for one since it is built in to the new brake system that is installed.

[truckasaurus]

That sound neat, how does it work?

[Krek]

Very impressive work!

I’m very early in my bunkhouse project and keep getting “vapor locked” mentally trying to figure everything out... am I correct that you worked out the layout, plumbing and wiring as you progressed through the build?

[islandtrader]

Originally Posted by Krek

Very impressive work!

I’m very early in my bunkhouse project and keep getting “vapor locked” mentally trying to figure everything out... am I correct that you worked out the layout, plumbing and wiring as you progressed through the build?

If you go back to post #20 on my thread you will see that I made of rough sketch of what my wife and I thought would work for us...

So very early on we kept this floor plan in mind. You have to know where tanks are placed for the grey water and black water. This sets the plan in motion and is hard to change after the shell was put back on. we drew out sketches on the floor and kept honing in on the exact amount of space each area would use up.

After insulation was put in, we then decided where the outlets, lights and would go. Wired the trailer and then re-skinned the inside .

The build out of the inside was pretty much the way we thought it would be. I started from the back and worked my way forward making small adjustments.

There were days when I would just sit in the trailer measure and re measure to make sure things would fit. Tape the floor and do it all over again. Planning is paramount...there is no changing once you commit to the plumbing and that is very early in the build out.

Hope this helps.

[islandtrader]

Finally got my stuff together and now I am in the learning curve of cooper tube bending and layout. The hot water heater just arrived so stay tuned for that adventure...

Tools of the trade



Nice flare

[Bubba L]

Hey Kent, while your having fun with your flaring tool, have you considered double flares? I found doubles more fun to make and I think they make a longer lasting seal. Just a thought. Take care

[steinVT]

Now is a good time to add a quick connect, if you haven't already.


I added mine at the last minute and we use it every time we camp with a little Weber grill I modified for low pressure. The connector and hose came from Amazon. More gas flows through it than any of the other lines. - Mark

[Kvsterling]

We are using a SCRUM board. Post it notes color coded for each system and then moving each post it from “to do”, “in progress”, and “complete.”

The first board was for the deconstruction and water damage/leak repair. Once that was done, re-wrote the board and Second version was for system rebuild including plumbing, electrical 12v/120v, propane, cable/network. Now on the third version of the board which includes cabinetry, appliance, system check, and chassis (motorhome)

It’s too much to keep in your head, and moving post it notes is rewarding even when the work feels overwhelming and discouraging

It really helps us, hope it helps somebody else too!