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Old 08-28-2013, 10:47 PM   #21
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
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My vent cap also came with a short piece of 90 degree bent aluminum that went just inside the opening, presumably to stop wind currents and splashing rain from getting inside. It doesn't need a large opening to let in a little air.
tim
I can get a pic if you need one.
a bug screen of some kind is also a very good idea
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:15 PM   #22
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HI Tim, I would love to see a picture of yours as well if you don't mind. I need to remember to add screen too, thanks for the reminder!
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:59 PM   #23
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I had a busy day! I took out the remainder of the floor today, and cut away the center if the belly pan. What a mess! Sometimes I wonder at the point of the belly pan other than a mouse home, wasp nest, dirt collector! Yuck!
There is some damage to the frame. Two outriggers are badly corroded and the step is broken. Hope I can dix the step with some welding.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:23 AM   #24
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It's nice to put something new on the trailer. I received my new rims from VTS today, got tires quickly painted the rims and put them on. When I picked up the tires I was really worried they wouldn't fit, they looked so wide! Luckily they fit and there seems to be plenty if room all around.
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:25 AM   #25
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I have been seriously contemplating whether or not I can effectively redo the Hehr standard windows in place. Why can't I cut away the rubber gasket flush with the window frame, polish the rivets and put a gasket on the side that opens? I know replacing the screens will be much more challenging. I have been thinking about this for some time. When I replaced a window on my Traveller, I was not happy with how the rivets set, so the thought of doing 9 windows on this trailer is concerning for me. This assumes that none of the windows leak around the edges, something I haven't tested for yet.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:25 AM   #26
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I only took the frames out on my front and rear windows. Side windows had no leaks, so I didn't take them out. Screens are a big issue as they are just about impossible to change with the frames in the trailer. They are still on my never ending ToDo list, but I plan to make up standalone screens with frames. Toastie has some good info in his thread.

As far as modding that gasket goes, I don't think you'll find many leaks between the sash and frame. Even in the rainy Northwet, they seal fine with the original gaskets on mine. The concern to me is the seal between the trailer skin and the frame.

I had that same broken step and we cut a new slot in a piece of 2x4 steel tube and replaced the outrigger with that. Very strong now.

-steve
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Old 08-31-2013, 06:40 PM   #27
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My neighbor came over today and did the welding for me. We added angle iron to the two rusted outriggers, fixed the step and added an outrigger on the front street side to match the one on curb side.

The step is still not perfect. It seems to have taken some abuse. Aside from the break and split from the outrigger, it seems to have worn down the notch that holds it in place when weight is put on it. I would like to have replaced the outrigger, but that was probably more than my neighbor was up for.

Next week I hope to Por15 the frame and try to fix the dent in the front. My neighbor also is letting me borrow his drill to remove the stuck screws. His drill has a hammer setting, and that worked for the few I tried tonight. Hopefully it will work for all of them! The right tools sure can make some jobs easier!!!
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:55 AM   #28
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1957 22' Caravanner
1964 26' Overlander
1954 29' Liner
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Having a 57 Caravanner myself I'm curious to know the serial number of yours. Mine in O9202. It's what I believe is the last or second to last 13 panel out of the Ohio factory in 1957. I've located O9204 which is a 7 panel. My interior is an exact match to yours minus the dinette.

I've got a thread on the windows. My biggest discovery was the amount of water that leaked into the trailer through the window sashes rather than the frames...the leaking came from the gaskets having been removed decades ago. Once I replaced the gaskets all leaks disappeared.

Personally I think this is one of the best trailers Airstream made its such a great layout! We use ours all the time! I also think 57 was a banner year

A couple off oddities on mine are the California wheel wells and the front interior end cap being fiberglass. Fun stuff.

Good luck and I look forward to your progress!
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:59 AM   #29
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Oh come on anybody can work with the right tools doing it the McIver way is always so entertaining! As for the belly pan it does keep us frome doing a floor replacement every couple of years and keeps the critters so warm and snuggled! Have fun you have talent!
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:09 AM   #30
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Hi 57BB, my serial number is 9134. I am still looking for the serial numbers in the '56/57 break. Nice to know where there 13 panel break happened. I will see if I can find the link to your window thread.

Thanks Cliff!
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:14 AM   #31
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Is this the vent you are looking for a photo?
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:17 AM   #32
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Hi Cliff,

Yes as I suspected yours is a 1957, the serial numbers for the 57 models started with 9100 and end with 9299...so yours is the 34th Caravanner made in 57. Pretty cool stuff. Also yours like mine was a park model...hence no shower and the plastic lav. I converted mine to a none park model adding a tankless hwh....but no grey tank...that will come when I get around to doing the kind of restoration you are doing no sure if you know but Vintage Trailer Supply just started selling reproduction housing and lenses for the tail lights. I had fits getting mine to work as there is a disk of fiberglass that sits between the lamp base and the bottom of the lamp housing...without it the lamp shorts out....took FOREVER to figure that out. Also mine has the exact same vent cover over the bath vent pipe. Have you tried Acryl-R from Airstream to seal the joints of the none crimped exterior panels? It works wonders especially on that vent cover, the frig vent and the tops of the drip caps...

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Old 09-01-2013, 05:26 PM   #33
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Hey bb this is cliff (rm66caravel) chlyman is carolyn and if I misspelled any of this sorry. But I am enjoying the threads so keep up the great work and more later.
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Old 09-02-2013, 01:58 AM   #34
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Hi Michael,

Do you have any info that verifies that 1957 starts with 9100? I am looking for something to show the DMV.
I have not send Acryl-R, but I will look into that as an option.
Thanks!
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Old 09-02-2013, 05:04 PM   #35
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Hey Carolyn,

I'm an architect...not that that really means anything but I specialize in Historic Preservation so my eye is trained to see details in construction that most don't see or really notice. I had the same guessing game with my trailer the PO didn't know the exact year either a 56 or a 57. So, I poured over the internet looking for as many 57s as I could find and that is how I deduced that mine is either the last or second to last 13 panel. I used the same website, Vintage Airstream that was referenced in one of your other threads....so as long as 9100 is correct then yours would be a 57. But what compels me to think that your's is is the fact that the interior is exactly the same as mine....minus the dinette...mine has a gaucho. Also if you look at the sales brochures on Airstreams Library site it shows the Caravanner interior that will match yours...again without the dinette. Your's is a D model...which meant Park model...it would have a 6 or 12 v though in the front battery box. That would go to the overhead light only I believe. The S model has a water heater under the bed and a shower pan plus the lavatory on the top of the dresser.

I wish I had that definitive document that would undoubtedly prove the year but all I really have is my sense of things based on looking at a heck of a lot of 1957 Caravanners

The Acryl-R is really great stuff, make sure you buy the special pump as well to apply it. Practice as it takes a hot minute to get used to the flow of the sealant. It will certainly keep the water out. Also, 3M makes a great panel sealer for autos which I used to seal the insides of all of the panels on my Overlander I'm restoring and as well I used a 3M spray sealer...with all three I could float my Overlander in a lake

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Old 09-03-2013, 12:00 AM   #36
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Thanks for that info Michael! I got mixed up because on the Vintage Archives the 1956 goes up to 9158, that is where the confusion is. Its good to know about ours being park models. I will have to try my luck at the DMV and hope they don't need any official documentation!
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Old 09-04-2013, 02:08 PM   #37
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Where can I get some of that panel sealer? Sounds like good stuff and we have some sealing to do!
Cliff
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Old 09-04-2013, 04:06 PM   #38
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Acryl-R is sold on airstream's website...you need the pump too...kinda pricy but will last forever. I did the entire exterior of my Overlander with slightly more than one can...it was leaking like a sieve. The 3M auto panel sealer came in a typical caulking tube and runs about $28 a tube. I purchased that from an auto paint supply store in Baltimore. The spray sealer (which I put over the panel sealer) is also by 3M and can be purchased at Fastenal.



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Photo shows a typical place inside the trailer where I applied both products.

I can get the exact name of the panel sealer if needed.
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Old 09-04-2013, 05:59 PM   #39
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I wonder if the seam sealer is like the Tempro from vts? I have plenty of that to use.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:54 PM   #40
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Tempro is best for joining two pieces together and sealing them before riveting. The sealers I've used are designed for use on previously sealed, I.e. exterior panels that have the black factory sealer in them. So they are for very different kinds of applications. I'll post photos tomorrow of the three so there is a clear visual.
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