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Old 11-18-2011, 07:56 PM   #61
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I greatly dislike this rear endcap....

2 hours and it's still not fitting right. Gonna have to take it back down and start over. Argh

However, had a friend come by to buck a bunch of rivets today. A large panel on the streetside was previously replaced and I had to go back and re-rivet it all. Also did a lot more insulation and wiring.
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Old 11-18-2011, 08:03 PM   #62
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Great progress

Quote:
Originally Posted by worldinchaos View Post
I greatly dislike this rear endcap....

2 hours and it's still not fitting right. Gonna have to take it back down and start over. Argh

However, had a friend come by to buck a bunch of rivets today. A large panel on the streetside was previously replaced and I had to go back and re-rivet it all. Also did a lot more insulation and wiring.
I like the progress you are making on your Pacer. I took the bold step of ordering a number of items for the Pacer even though we might be years away from doing much on it. I couldn't wait to get a few things replaced and I would like to try to get it sealed up before winter hits too hard. By Thanksgiving we expect 40's so it could be perfect timing.

Keep up the good work...I am watching your work on your Pacer....and could be a copycat down the road.
Sandy
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:02 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ND10CentCan View Post
I like the progress you are making on your Pacer. I took the bold step of ordering a number of items for the Pacer even though we might be years away from doing much on it. I couldn't wait to get a few things replaced and I would like to try to get it sealed up before winter hits too hard. By Thanksgiving we expect 40's so it could be perfect timing.

Keep up the good work...I am watching your work on your Pacer....and could be a copycat down the road.
Sandy
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Thanks Sandy. So far everything I'm doing is pretty much identical to the other more detailed threads because it has been exterior/ infrastructure work, and I want the exterior to look era-appropriate.
However, as I get to designing and building the interior in 2012, it will definitely take on some character.

Thanks again for the encouragement and kudos. Can't wait to see your Pacer!
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Old 11-21-2011, 11:21 AM   #64
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Endcaps suck.

Update 11/21/11

With Turkey Day approaching, Marie and many of my friends have all left town to go visit family early. I'm "stuck" at work with meetings through Wednesday afternoon, which means I've been left with lots of solitary time to work on Knight.

I'm also pretty sure I accidentally ingested Adderall at some point yesterday since my productivity sky-rocketed. I have finished all the under-skin wiring up to the forward endcap (which only means one 12v light and two trailer marker lights are left to be wired. This was made much easier by a last minute decision to change the location of the electrical panels when I realized I could reduce the wire runs and save cabinet space by putting it on the streetside instead of in the wardrobe on the curbside.

After wiring, I installed both the foam and reflective insulation up to the forward endcap. I hope to tape it and maybe even start dry-fitting panels up this week.

And the endcap. That pesky rear endcap. Friday I had a friend to work on it, and we were only able to get it temporarily up with some rivets and clecos, but couldn't get the fit right. I ended up pulling it down yesterday (well, crashing down on top of me is a more accurate description), and did some invasive surgery on the reflective insulation to pull half of the foam spacers out. This made it easier to compress the remaining ones when reinstalling the endcap. I also used a jack to lift up the roof a bit since it was sagging a 1/2" lower on the rear end relative to front.

Now it is installed.

Finally, it rained all day yesterday while I was in the trailer and I found two leaks that still remain.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:01 AM   #65
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Question Need Advice!!

OK. I've come to a dilemma. I am going camping in Joshua Tree from Dec 16-18. It is a 170 mile drive each way, over pretty decent roads minus a stretch of I-10 that could be better.

Just how much of the interior is needed to be installed so that the shell won't flex too much while driving that distance? I will have both of the endcaps up for sure, and can probably get at least half of the wall panels, but the ceiling definitely won't be ready (needs a lot of polishing first).


With my school and work schedule, my only free weekends for camping in the next 6 months are this specific weekend and one or two in late March. And let's not get confused-- I don't want to bypass structural integrity, I'm just trying to see how many nights I am going to have to sacrifice sleep so that I can get the minimum number of panels in.....
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Old 11-24-2011, 12:12 AM   #66
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Pete,
I have driven to JT NP, the road off of I-10 toward the park is a good 12% winding grade. It twists through some canyons as well. IMHO, and for the .02 it is worth, I personally would not take the chance of the exterior skin “flexing” without the integrity of the interior walls in place. The price of a weekend of fun may be measured by the cost of future pain to correct it. Not stating for fact that there would be an issue there, however if your gut has voiced up enough to find a need to question it, there is a reason. I personally would not chance it, with all your hard work at stake. That said, there are sure to be some others that have towed “shells” I do not as a practice, as it is still the clients property, and do not want the liability for the increased risk. Perhaps they can speak better to the experience than I. Wishing you a Great Thanksgiving ~ Keep up the hard work, it is something that you will have for a long time to cherish
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Old 11-24-2011, 06:38 AM   #67
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Joshua Tree

Peter-

When we did our renovation of our '17 Caravel, I took it on a trip without the ceiling panels in place. In fact, we had an Air Conditioner on the roof and we had no problems. Especially with the A/C, I wouldn't have considered moving it without all of the lower panels in place.

My reasoning was that the majority of the work done by the inner skin is done where the shell meets the floor. Keeping that right angle "right" is key. Clearly, the I-beam made by the panels and lower frame is responsible for that.

I found that camping in the aluminum tent was a tremendous inspiration. I highly recommend doing it, even if you have to install, then drill out a lower panel. (Every other rivet should do it).

Please document JT NP. We hope to get there this winter.

I've marked your thread and have to come back and read through it all. Looks like great work in a quick browse.

John
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Old 11-24-2011, 02:26 PM   #68
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Elf, that's a good point on the approach roads. Unless i stay at Indian cove I probably can't avoid those roads, although the north-eastern entrance is slightly better than the other two.

John, you kind of reaffirmed what I was leaning toward, that is working to get all lower skins up in addition to the endcaps, but leaving out the 6'x8' curved ceiling piece.

Even if I just temporarily attach the skins with pop rivets in every other hole, that's better than nothing. They will have to come out later if they are not behind cabinets because Marie wants Olympics for all visible interior metal...

What I'll do is plan to have the skins up 4 days early so that I can attach the ceiling temporarily if I decide it feels flimsy.

I think the one real reason Im ok with this is the trailer is so darn short, it's hard to imagine the ceiling flexing with the sides and endcaps secure...

And John, I'll be sure to document the trip, but if you have any Q's about JT, feel free to shoot me a PM. I've been there ~10 times and done most of the hikes and offroad trails. I love that place
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Old 12-03-2011, 05:47 PM   #69
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3 rear skin pieces and curbside skin piece are all up and riveted in. Polished lower 12-18 inches after a little touch up stripping. Some rivets will have to be drilled out and replaced later with Olympics.

Also have added the plumbing stack, streetside upper side vent, and vintage Bargman gravity water fill door.

The streetside upper side vent was constructed with 1.5" channel that I built out of .025 aluminum sheet from HD. I used a poor-man's brake to do it (shop vise, lots of clamps, and rigid steel bars). The vent is just a mill-finish stamped louver vent from a big box store, which most closely fit the existing hole.

The lower streetside vent will be constructed differently as it will be an opening hatch as well.
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Old 12-04-2011, 12:46 PM   #70
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Peter,

Looking Great!!.

Impressive progress, quality shows.

Bob
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:34 PM   #71
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Occupy Storage Yard

This weekend I participated in "Occupy Storage Yard" where I must have spent 20 hours working on Knight between Friday and Sunday (even though I had class all day on Saturday), and I was graced with Marie's help for ~7 hours on Sunday and a good friend's help for ~4 hours.

Needless to say, we accomplished a lot:
Wiring between skins: 100% complete
Insulation (foam, reflectix, foil tape): 100% complete
Inside skin preparation: 100% stripped (was at 95% before, with the edges and rivet holes left), only 2 skins left to have the lower 18 inches polished and installed

All trailer running lights are working and electric brake breakaway switch is installed. I learned that a vintage 6-pin connector did not work like I thought, and I had to replace with a new 7-pin, although the wire bundle was OK. Also did some surgery on the already-installed insulation because I forgot to prewire for a future solar panel.
We bucked a bunch of random items on the front like the door catch and standoff bumper, and bucked the hinges while we had the chance, since they were pop rivets.

I even began emptying the "workshop" from the trailer for camping mode!!!

One last note: if anyone is doing reflective insulation and finds the foil tape a little difficult to work with, the Walmart brand is my new favorite! It is much thinner --imagine using a kitchen grade aluminum foil with an adhesive backing. This allows much better contortion to the creases and bends where you adhere the insulation to the ribs and spacers.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:56 PM   #72
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Funny.

Congrats on getting the aluminum tent closer to road-ready. Seven months and cookin' along.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:31 AM   #73
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Funny.

Congrats on getting the aluminum tent closer to road-ready. Seven months and cookin' along.
Thanks Rednax.

I'm so close I can taste it. Unfortunately, that is a problem when I have finals coming up on Saturday and every day after work I just think to myself, ooh...it's only a five minute detour to the storage yard. And then I find myself there for an hour or two and by the time I get home and have dinner there is only a wee bit of studying going on. I'm pretty sure this is evidence the addiction is worsening. At least its addiction to aluminum, and not narcotics.
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:56 PM   #74
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Looking back at your post #59, I'm curious how you attached to first layer of reflectix to the surface of the aluminum. Also what thickness is the foam board between layers? and how will you attach the inner layer?

Thanks for posting.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:01 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by JIMandPJ View Post
Looking back at your post #59, I'm curious how you attached to first layer of reflectix to the surface of the aluminum. Also what thickness is the foam board between layers? and how will you attach the inner layer?

Thanks for posting.
1. Degreased the oily-residue from the walls
2. Sprayed with a 3M brand super-strength adhesive on 3/4" foam strips. Also used Gorilla Tape or equivalent strength duct tapes to hold down strips.
3. Foam strips 2-3" wide were installed with 6-8" spacing and with dividers inbetween sectioning off areas no larger than 8-10" in length. Small gaps were left for drainage in the event of leaks.
4. A single layer of Reflectix was added on top of styrafoam, using foil tape to secure to foam, ribs, and other pieces of Reflectix.
5. 12V trailer umbilical wiring was added underneath Reflectix, as was most 110V Romex. 12V trailer house wiring was added on top of Reflectix.
6. In some cases where there were excessive spans between ribs without proper support for insulation and I was scared it may eventually settle under it's own weight or movement against the inner shell, I added a set of 1/2" foam insulation spacers, and sometimes trimmed the original spacer, which just barely fit it in the 1/2" gap.

Oh yeah, and this was only because I live in Southern California and don't plan to have the trailer in much real cold weather applications. The coldest we normally see in our camping is winter desert trips (like next weekend) with lows of 30, highs of 50, because below that and we don't want to hike anyway. Since we are used to doing this sort of weather in a tent, any amount of insulation is an improvement. Thus, this part of the renovation was chosen with a focus on cost reduction, soundproofing, and insect/rodent prevention.
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Old 12-07-2011, 11:15 PM   #76
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What I wrote about the addiction....

Stopped by the trailer. Started working on the lower streetside vent. I'm pretty proud so far. Aviation snips are making me buff. Haha.

Using 1.5" x1" x 1/8" U-channel with 1/8"
pop rivets for the main frame. The extra strength of 1/8" is because this will also be the outside shower compartment and might need things mounted to it later. The second image has 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" angle aluminum for the trim, which will also have dual purpose of being the edge to which the leftover vintage Hehr window seal will be riveted.
I plan on constructing the hinge and door itself similar to the walkthrough on vintageairstream.com, and using a vintage drip cap above.
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Old 12-08-2011, 06:37 AM   #77
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Your project looks great! Nice job on the shower compartment. I know what you mean about the addiction! Don't forget to get your Christmas shopping finished! I keep postponing that, just like you & your studies.....although your studies are a lot more important (don't I sound like a mom!?)
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Old 12-08-2011, 07:12 AM   #78
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Awesum work! It's amazing the progress that you made in a short time. I just rolled past 1 year on my '63 and you are going much faster.

Thanks for posting the details.
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Old 12-08-2011, 09:18 AM   #79
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Becky- don't worry "mom" the next two
nights are dedicated to studying. The trailer will wait until Sunday.

HiHo- thanks and I think the biggest change for me was setting a couple deadlines by deciding on camping trips in advance. The biggest challenge was avoiding temptation to polish everything because it looks so good, but is unnecessary at the moment...

:-)
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Old 12-12-2011, 01:38 PM   #80
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Man that endcap was a beast to reinstall. I used so little insulation on the front, but it was such an uneven depth between the walls. After I failed a couple times, and then finally reinstalled it correctly, I measured the wall depth in a spot at the very middle of the curve, in the centerline, and found it to be ~0.75". Meanwhile, the lower area where the endcap stops and seams with the lower skin panel, has a depth of 3.5"!!!

Either way, with some help from Marie, we got every single interior panel installed with the exception of the ceiling. The lower 12-18" is polished all the way around as well.

She even helped clean up all my messes from working and we emptied everything from the trailer except the tools I need to finish the outside vent door. Unfortunately, it's raining right now so I don't know how much I'll finish tonight. Either way, it's road ready for Friday since I can always use some plastic film and corrugated pressed fiber aluminum-alternative as a vent (i.e. cardboard and a trash bag)
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