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Old 01-18-2007, 01:52 AM   #61
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Uhhh, guys...

I'm not sure if anyone told you, but the floor is a part of the structural integrity of the trailer. That is, the shell is supported by the floor, and if you leave it as-is without replacing the little strip around the walls, it could allow the shell to shift while towing. In order to make the best repair, you will need to support the shell, and remove the piece of floor that is under the wall, replacing it with a larger piece of plywood that is secured across the frame and stringers.
Also, the piece of frame that is riveted together really needs to be welded. If for some reason you can't get a welder, you could use several 1/4" carriage bolts to hold the frame together, but that is also a poor alternative to welding.
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Old 01-18-2007, 03:19 AM   #62
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I agree 100% with overlander63, don't cut corners everything is open now---do it right
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Old 01-18-2007, 07:48 AM   #63
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i'll be sure to tell hubby about the "carriage bolt or weld it" recommendation... and ONE of those two WILL be done... however, as for the floor... after MUCH headache... we finally determined that the trailer that we had, the tile actually didn't go under the channel, like we expected, and like nearly everyone else's AS that we'd heard about... (one of the JOYS of owning a '64, apparantly... everything is a crap-shoot) so the actual thickness of the plywood WAS thinner. we took an actual piece of our floor down to Lowes to get the EXACT same thickness of wood... just to be DARN sure.

edit: overlander63, i'm not 100% awake yet... i just went back and read your post again... and again. all the wood and tile and anything else that could have been in that channel has been taken out. we're sure of that.
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Old 01-18-2007, 08:41 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katzklaw
things i learned today:

1. aluminum pop rivets are annoyingly fragile. they will "pop" before you are ready if you get impatient and squeeze the riveter too fast.
2. a WD hitch feels like it weighs a ton and a half, even with the arms removed.
3. if you give your husband or your father half a chance, they will steal all your extension cords for their own projects, leaving you unexpectedly in the dark.
4. my trailer doesn't have a univolt (or it has an inoperable one).
The true battery charging univolts were first used in 1965 models.

Your's simply switched between the battery and a transformer that had dual voltage output.

The 12 VAC output is for the lights, and th 19 VAC output is for the ceiling fans.

A 12 VDC fan motor works just fine on 19 VAC.

You can easily add a battery charging univolt, if you wish. That would do away with the two switches that you have. Wiring the new Univolt, is a piece of cake.

Andy
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:04 AM   #65
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When you say "ceiling fans", you mean the vent fans, right?

And we have a Converter now, so the system will be wired into that, I'll figure all that out when I get to it.

Thanks for the info on the floor. You have given me much to think about.

Now I knew the floor was structural (And so is the frame) that is why I used steel rivets for the junction, I did not use aluminum (That would have been asking for a problem)

I would assume that steel rivets have the same shear as bolts of the same width (1/8”), and I used quite a bit of them, min 3 each side of the cut, to a max of 5 each side of the cut in every cut location (I have 3 locations).

Now, when I worked on drafting for airplanes, all the junctions were riveted, because only rivets provide for a solid junction and also allow for vibration from the wind, welding was not a desired option as when the plane flew the welds (Which would not give) would end up breaking the weaker metal in locations where vibration and flex were necessary or unavoidable. However, I know this is not a plane, but it might play by the same rules, I also know that car frames are all welded, so, that does kind of shoot down my theory and prove that plans are much different then trailers.

I’ll drop in ¼” carriage bolts on each end of the steel angle, just to be safe, as welding is not an option for me, because of the state of the trailer I am not hauling it with out the floor in, and the welder is going to charge me an arm and a leg to pack up all his stuff and come here to do the job. Maybe some day I’ll get a welder and be able to do the job myself, but as of right now, I’ll go with what I can go with, and that is bolts, screws and rivets.

I also plan to put some support straps across the frame, I’ll have Katz put some pictures of that for everyone.

Right now, I feel like I am getting sick, and as much as I want to go do the work, I just do not have any energy, Gonna take at least half a day off today, and just paint a little, and then play with the floor tomorrow.

Thanks again for everyone’s input on this project so far.

The floor was killing me, but I suppose that now it will go better.

So remember, everyone, when you replace your floor, make sure to check if the tile goes under the shell, or stops before the shell, and check this BEFORE you take the floor out!

DH
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:39 PM   #66
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Katz and DH, my condolences on the loss of Solar and Bengee. Losing K9 friends is sometimes as tough as losing the human ones.

And whoa! You have been busting your butts on the trailer. I would never guess it is the same coach I saw at the Can Opener. Congratulations on your haul of Airstream goodies. Very interesting thread to say the least. Carry on . . . .
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Old 01-19-2007, 09:52 PM   #67
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Ok, it seems the shell has dropped a down a bit, in the 3 days I have been working on this infernal floor, so, now I have to brace up the shell, and then install the floor, and as it seems, since I do not have the new tank yet, I can not put down the back section (The section I started with) and since I want to get the floor down enough to support the shell, I need to do something.

I was planning on, once I get the shell lifted again, to put in 5/8" spacers around the frame, to support the shell, but I wonder if the spacers will be enough to support the shell, so I plan to just build from support framing to hold the shell up while I work my way down the trailer.

I'll let you all know how that Goes.

Next, I am going to have Katz (Since she is so good at it) post some pictures of how I fixed the floor. Now, I did have some major holes in the belly pan, but I did not want to have to replace or even remove the belly pan (I almost removed it when I fell though it, but that was not planned.

Anyway, since all the major holes are where the frame is, and I had some major rust issues with where the tank was, I decided to use EPDM self adhesive roofing membrane over the belly pan and then rivet it back to the frame again. This held it in place quite good and then some metal strips and a few more rivets where I wanted them to ensure proper contact of the membrane and I think this baby is done.

You will see in the pictures that I also laid the roofing over the entire area where the new Tank will be, this was to reinforce the area, as well as protect it from any form of future rot or decay.

Next, I’m going to insulate under the floor with some “Bubble Warp” reflective insulation and then some fiberglass over that, the “Bubble Warp” should give a good guard against any holes in the belly pan from allowing water to hit the fiberglass (And fiberglass does adsorb water like a sponge, and I want to put a guard against that, as much as I can. I could not find encapsulated fiberglass, so I’ll have to settle for faced batt, not my first choice, but it is what I have to deal with.

Now I am going to remove the third floor piece, (As it does not support the shell) and then install the second floor piece (saving the first floor piece for later, the first piece is under the bathroom, just so you know the order) and work my way down.

I still need to remove the front of the trailers interior shell, but I am saving that for tomorrow as well. Then, after I have all that removed (and I will only need to play with the fiberglass insulation again in a major way for just one more day) those fully cast fiberglass ends are quite a mess, and they can be very heavy.

While I am doing this, I hope Katz will be sanding the interior wall panels and prepping them for painting, since we are painting the panels before we reinstall them (That way there is no tape and I do not have to paint in an enclosed space). I am going to use a paint sprayer for the job to give a nice even brushless finish that will be smooth and look uniform throughout the trailer. When I get there, I’ll have Katz post pictures of that as well. Wow, lots of pictures huh she has to post, Huh?

Anyway, I popped my knee out about 2 days ago, and it’s really starting to get to me, I am Icing it tonight, I was planning on using some nice butter cream Vanilla flavor, or I could use an Ice Pack, like every suggests. I might go with the ice pack.

So that is the update as far as that goes.

DH
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:37 PM   #68
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Ok got a section of floor in, and ran the 7th line for the reverse lights.

Tomorrow is Katz Birthday ! WHEEEEE !

Happy Update !

DH
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:02 PM   #69
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Update 01/22/07

Katz had a great Birthday yesterday, we took her to a Longhorn (Steak House) which is one of her favorite places to go eat.. and boy did we eat.

Then we got her an Ice Cream cake and sang Happy Birthday (Well we mangled the song, proof positive that more people do not make for a better song).

Anyway, enough with all the personal stuff on with the adventure!

Well, today, I finally got the last of the interior shell off the Airstream, and we figured since we have to fit the floor under the shell, we are going to do both ends, and finish at the middle, Because the middle piece just drops in, and does not need to be fitted under the shell, so that sounded like the best plan.

Today, I finished sawing out the bolts, and cutting the sections of floor, but have not pulled up the floor yet, leaving it in, for support until I can replace it. Tomorrow, we will prep the wood with a sealer, both sides, and then when the paint dries, we will remove the floor, cut the new floor, and install all in the same day, well that is the plan anyway.

I only have 3 pieces of floor do to before this done, seems I started at the hardest end first, but that is I guess just the way I am, a sucker for pain and punishment.

I plan to use some left over pipe to fish the 7th wire under the floor, for the reverse lights and then replace the main feed line that links to the plug with a single line of 7 wires, as opposed to having the 6 wire line and the 7 wire on the outside, this should make it look clean as well as maybe offer some level of protection to the whole mess of wires.

Next, after we get the floor replaced, will be to install the bathroom again, since that will be something I am used to, I hope it goes well. The tank should be here in the next few days, so all things are going according to some plan I have not made not do I know anything about, but they are going to say the least.

Now, remember that big dent I had in the front of the Trailer, looked like it hit a tree or something. Well once I took out the interior shell, I just placed my hands on the end, and gave a little push and “POP” it went back into place, just as easy as that. As it stands that was the easiest job that has been done to the trailer yet.

Well Katz just had to make a joke of this, and was like “Heal this Trailer” like I just laid hands on it. I needed the joke, but I think she is going to get a moment purgatory for that comment alone.

Well that is the Update for now.

I’ll let you all know how things are going tomorrow.

BTW: Overlander63, was in an Accident, and if you could donate for his family, or what have you, that would be great. I believe Katz has a donate button on her Sig.

Thanks.

DH
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:45 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dear Hubby

BTW: Overlander63, was in an Accident, and if you could donate for his family, or what have you, that would be great. I believe Katz has a donate button on her Sig.

Thanks.

DH
Accident??? what happened? throw us some details....
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:10 PM   #71
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Todd, check this thread, When one of us hurts...all of us cry ~. He was hit from behind while on his scooter and has some major orthopedic injuries.
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:17 PM   #72
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he was just transfered to a specialist in Tampa today... and we're all praying for an uneventful and successful surgery tomorrow in the AM.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:22 PM   #73
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OK quick update.

Katz has played with the Wires, I got the stairs to work again.

Umm.. and we made a huge mess of the whole thing. When we do more, I'll say more.

DH
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:29 PM   #74
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forgive him... he really shouldn't post when he has a headache!

alright... yeah. we fixed the stair, which was alot easier than i thought it would be. i brushed the rust from the front hitch and painted it.. it looks a TON better. and i tackled the rat's-nest that was the wiring-harness pigtail. i found out exactly WHY there was no battery in the back! one of the trailer's POs had rewired it with a 6 pin harness... and left the "charge" line disconnected from anything! well, i cut all that MESS out... ran a wire to the back for reverse lights, and hooked up everything *hopefully* correctly. i'll test that tomorrow.

the pictures are: a shot of the roofing membrane hubby mentioned in a previous post that we used to seal up the floor area with, a shot of the bracing hubby rigged up to lift the rear body temporarily so we can get the floor into the channel again, a shot of the repaired and repainted step (it was a really nasty shade of RUST color before we started), before and after of the work i did cleaning up and painting the hitch area, and oh yeah..... my parent's dog, looking cute. the very last picture is the drawer pulls (the center one, smooth rounded with dimples in the middle) we're going to use thru-out the trailer i saw those at Lowe's and said "those just SCREAM "Airstream"!" with the smooth curve, shiny silver, and the little dimples reminiscent of rivets! had to have 'em!
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Old 01-27-2007, 08:01 PM   #75
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Ok quick Update.

Got the floor in the front of the trailer down (and it's raining today, so no work) but that sets the pace of the rest of the floor, which should go better then what has been done before.

As it stands, I just need to remove the old floor stuff (Insulation) and put a new floor down.

We got the wall insulation now, so that should go also quite fast.

Just need to seal the windows and so they do not leak (Any suggestions would be good), and then the walls go back in.

But first, the power lines need to be run, not sure what that will involve, but this floor seems to be dragging on and on, I need to get this finished for my own sanity.

Well hope this was a Good Update.

DH
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:27 AM   #76
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well... i tested the wiring i did the other day (by the time i finished the wiring the day that i did it, i was freezing cold and TIRED, so i called it quits that night without testing right then... didn't manage to get the truck backed over to hook up till tonight), and something's wonky.
the running lights came on ok, but then i noticed that my brake controler was registering a number (which meant it was applying the brakes). i turned on a turn signal, and EVERYTHING blinked... even the brake controller. i was very careful about trying to follow the wiring diagrams i had available to me... so i'm kinda at a loss over this one. its almost as if everything is wired TOGETHER... which i know for darn certain that i didn't do. perhaps something isn't grounded? or isn't grounded properly? any assistance would be wonderful.

and speaking of wiring... hubby knows house wiring, but we're both a bit hesitant about stepping into the realm of 12v, but we know we have to. does anyone have any kind of, even totally basic, diagram we could take a look at to get an idea how to wire everything together? (keeping in mind we will no longer have a univolt, seeing as how we purchased a regular 30amp converter with the circuit pannel and fuse blocks built in)

another question...everything about this trailer seems to be turning out to be a mystery. in this case, the windows. i've looked on vintage trailer supply, and inland RV center, and a few other places, and nowhere have i seen exactly what i have! that wouldn't bother me so much, except for i have a couple of them with stripped out gears. one of the odd things about my windows is, there's no way to latch them shut. i had called inland RV to order a few parts i needed (including a new set of axles) and the person i talked to on the phone (thanks for the keychain! ) insisted that my windows should have had some kind of latch on them... well the entire shell is out of my trailer, and i see no latches, and not even anything for the latches to catch into.. no slots, no catches, no nothin! the windows that WORK just seat into the weatherseal gasket and are held shut by the crank. (so obviously, the windows that are stripped just hang open). the window has a little square-shaped actuator which sits at the top of the window, inside the sill... it doesn't project into the coach at all, only the handle does. an arm comes off that and down one side of the window. also on the square is a round rod that spans the top of the window, with another arm identical to the other one down the other side of the window. (on my trailer these arms are all slightly crooked to each other, so all my windows open slightly "off") i can get pictures if this explanation doesn't make sense... the windows that WORK... close just fine, even if it does take a bit of effort to get them completely closed... the ones that don't work.... well, they were actually screwed shut by the PO (leaving me with yet ANOTHER leak problem i have to figure out how to fix) if anyone has any clues what i should/can do about my windows... please let me know...

and one more thing... how much of a pain-in-the-butt is it to replace the roof AC unit? i'm assuming we probly need a taller ladder... because i shudder to think of trying to haul that heavy-#$@ thing up there and on top of the AS when hubby could barely reach just by himself.

yeesh. this is really turning out to be alot of fun!
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:39 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by katzklaw
...

and one more thing... how much of a pain-in-the-butt is it to replace the roof AC unit? i'm assuming we probly need a taller ladder... because i shudder to think of trying to haul that heavy-#$@ thing up there and on top of the AS when hubby could barely reach just by himself.

yeesh. this is really turning out to be alot of fun!
for A/C replacement ideas, look here:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...tos-20568.html

really, not too bad. I did have some help getting the unit up the ladder, but most of the work is doable by one person. Taking the old unit down can be made easier if you take it apart in place and take the compressor down as one item.

Zep
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:03 AM   #78
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This is what you should have:

To the left of the water filter, you can see the latch that would hold the window closed. There should be one on both sides of the window.

Here's a scan of the electrical system from my '64 manual: (click it to make it larger)
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:13 AM   #79
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wow... thanks for the great informative post about AC replacement! i was concerned about the "hauling it up onto the roof" aspect of the project... cuz i've picked that thing up... and DANG its heavy!


anyway... i examined my wiring in the light of day, and made the discovery that where the white wire (ground, i believe) comes out of the "harness" at the back, it just terminates in a ring terminal. its not grounded to anything. i think it WAS connected to something before we started, but i'm not sure what. could this have been causing my problem? (i am totally clueless when it comes to electrical wiring... and hubby is out right now, but i was charged with "finding the problem" before he left... and this was the only thing i could see, so any insight would be great )
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Old 01-29-2007, 11:21 AM   #80
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AS far as the wiring harness goes, I used a couple different diagrams. First I tried one I had downloaded/found on the net. Then I tried the one in my manual. Both "worked", kinda - if you don't count blowing the fuse on the tow vehicle and having no lights 5 minutes down the road . Finally I looked at the replecement plug end I had purchased and it was stamped with the color of each wire for each spot - tried that an presto everything works properly!
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