No Rear Hatch

[Alcoa Roller]

Been lurkin on here for longer than I care to think about. I finally made the plunge and picked up a 63 Overlander. I will take it home next week but for now just have pics so I can day dream.

Anyway, did this model have a rear hatch? I cant find any info on this and mine does not have one. It seems I have seen pics both ways. What gives?

Thanks for the education thus far and for no doubt what Ill be asking in the future.

[HiHoAgRV]

Mine has a rear hatch. It's a California built unit. Photos are in my Sig Link...

[Alcoa Roller]

Thanks Hi Ho. Needless to say, I have seen your work on here and had to put a bib on to keep from drooling myself. Outstanding sir. I noticed you are from Gods country. Lived in Ms till after college and now reside in Texas.

Mine is an Ohio model if that makes any difference. I was just looking at pics from vintage trailer in the sold archives and there was one there with no hatch. ? I dunno. Weird.

So you a Rebel, a Bulldog, or Eagle. ?

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by Alcoa Roller

Thanks Hi Ho.... Lived in Ms till after college and now reside in Texas.

Mine is an Ohio model if that makes any difference. I was just looking at pics from vintage trailer in the sold archives and there was one there with no hatch. ? I dunno. Weird.

So you a Rebel, a Bulldog, or Eagle. ?

If your rear panel has been replaced, they may have deleted the hatch. You can tell by looking under the sink and seeing what the interior panels look like. It's very possible that the factory didn't install the hatch to begin with. Either way, the storage area is pretty small so I would think it's a big deal. Post Photos!!!!

Bulldog by diploma...I guess

[dwightdi]

My 63 Overlander is Ohio built and has a rear hatch. You can get to the plumbing and the 110 volt electrical panel through it. The floor in that area was rotten in mine because the hatch has a tendency to leak. Mine did not have a converter. Mine is a full size bed model with the air pressurized fresh water tank under the bed.

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by dwightdi

My 63 Overlander is Ohio built and has a rear hatch. You can get to the plumbing and the 110 volt electrical panel through it. The floor in that area was rotten in mine because the hatch has a tendency to leak. Mine did not have a converter. Mine is a full size bed model with the air pressurized fresh water tank under the bed.

Tht's differnt! All of my electrics are n da' street closet...Mine was twins but also had the tank under the street side bed.

Maybe Alco's was built late on a Friday?

[Alcoa Roller]

Interesting. I guess I would lean toward it being closed up by some owner. The rear bumper was replaced at some point. The new one has a space between it and the body. No water problem. At least not now. My electricals are in curb side closet as well.

LOL on the Friday build. Heres a few photos. Well Ill have to post later. got a server down message.

Thanks again.

[Alcoa Roller]

Here are some inside shots. PO stuff still in here.

[HiHoAgRV]

She looks really good.

[overlander64]

Greetings Alcoa Roller!

Welcome to the Forums and the world of Vintage Overlander ownership!

Originally Posted by Alcoa Roller

Been lurkin on here for longer than I care to think about. I finally made the plunge and picked up a 63 Overlander. I will take it home next week but for now just have pics so I can day dream.

Anyway, did this model have a rear hatch? I cant find any info on this and mine does not have one. It seems I have seen pics both ways. What gives?

Thanks for the education thus far and for no doubt what Ill be asking in the future.

I can think of several possible explanations for the absence of the rear hatch:

• As an earlier poster suggested it could be the result of repairs made during it life with a previous owner.
• It could have been special ordered by the original owner without the hatch.
• It could represent a difference between coaches built in Ohio when compared to those produced in California. There have been distinctive production differences between the two factories noted during this era.
• It could be a left-over 1962 titled as a 1963 and sold "new" in 1963.
• It could be a difference between the standard Land Yacht models and the Land Yacht International models.
• It could be an early production model. A possible explanation might be that the rear hatches were tried sometime during the 1963 production run in preparation for the switch to the one-stop-service-compartment in 1964.

It can be interesting to try to guess how a coach ended up with a particular feature that doesn't seem to be common to production.

Good luck with your Overlander!

Kevin

[Skatiero]

That's a cool trailer! Very nice to have the space between the bumper and the body. I think the rear hatch was closed when they did the bumper mod. Is your name really "Roller"? It's my maiden name.

[Alcoa Roller]

Thanks Skatiero. Negative on roller. Just my name on here.

[Skatiero]

Aw, thought you might be a cousin! - Katie Roller (rollers' Katie = rollerskatie = skatieroller = skatiero, my lifelong nickname.)

[reinergirl]

No rear hatch on mine... 63 Ohio built overlander..

[Alcoa Roller]

After much experimentation and frustration, I think I found the trick to treating the ceiling and walls after stripping them to bare aluminum. In my case, the aluminum was blotchy, streaky, seamed to hold residue from the stripping process and was really a mess. After multi attemps of polishing, scuffung, using scotch pright , wet sandpaper, steel wool etc. I got the process down to a liveable solution with results I am pleased with. The techniique will result in a satin finish, not shiny, but in the long run will be eaisier to live with I think.

Anyway, my process was to use a random orbit sander with 320 grit paper. Dont worry about the scratches they come out or at least get pretty in the net step. After sanding with the sander, clean with a dry cloth, then use the red/marroon scotch bright pads. They have more bite than the green. I found a great holder and the pads at pep boys auto supply. Anyway place the pad on the ceiling with the the length of the holder running paralell with the length of the trailer and place both hands on the holder handle. Start at the top of ceiling and using pressure, scrape the pad along the surface from top to bottom in one direction only and be sure you are scraping in a strait, i.e. plumb direction. Continue along the length of the ceiling, top to bottom. I found that the scratches that you will be forming are more pleasing to my eye running in a top to borrom orientation vs longitudinaly. I still have to do the walls and need some more time on the window trims but I am pleased with results.