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Old 05-07-2012, 07:51 AM   #401
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Alan:

It was a gamble but I was not getting anywhere. I figured the battery box would cover the area if it was etched by the acid. I need to get out of school also. I had to take a nap Saturday and Sunday. Time for summer break

Brian
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:12 AM   #402
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Greetings Brian!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Kevin:

Cool Beans about the weather. That means my pond is full. I will be in Anna in about 3.5 weeks with the 73 Overlander. How I miss So. Il.
I would really like to see your trailers someday.

Brian
Since I haven't been teaching, I had forgotten about the shortened schedules for schools around here in May. Our schools are in the countdown mode, and I suspect that they are down to not much more than two weeks before their final day. We didn't have much winter weather so there were few, if any, snow days. Even though our local schools now have air conditioning, it appears that they are following the age-old custom of dismissing school an hour early during the month of May.

I don't expect to be traveling much this summer as the budget is very tight. This will be the the third year that I haven't towed one of my coaches to the WBCCI International Rally. I may drive over to the Rally for a one or two day visit without the Airstream, but that will be highly dependent upon just how high fuel prices go this summer. You would be welcome to drop over for a visit when you are in Union County . . . I expect to be around most of the summer.

Enjoy the last hectic days of your school year!

Kevin
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Old 05-07-2012, 04:30 PM   #403
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THANKS. Yup I know about budget. With gas at 3.80 or whatever I am not travelling far this summer. But anywhere we go with the Overlander we have a good time, and there are plenty of nearby destinations.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:55 AM   #404
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Schools out and I have been cleaning and organizing everything but the Overlander. I ripped the garage apart and organized all my tools. I still have a bunch of yard work to complete.

I did get a new battery box. A friend I worked with for many years in a vocational school had it rebuilt for me. He is now a general manager for a race car garage. His company rebuilt an exact/perfect copy of the the box. I donated aluminum to have it built (same thickness as the old box). My friend was nice enough to up the aluminum guage size for me. It is a well built box and it is perfect. I knew the job would be perfect because most of the cars they fabricate. This compay does it all. Here are some pics of the battery box and the shop it was built. I will also leave their website link in case some of you boys want to start racing at the drag strip.

Sheppard Race Cars - Projects

Brian
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Old 06-03-2012, 01:48 PM   #405
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I built a rivet strap so I can find the rivet holes on the trailer and drill on the new battery box for everything to line up. The old rivets are buck rivets. They were 1/8" in rivets. I have olympic rivets that are fatter and I could put those in or I could just go with pop rivets. I am looking for an opinion. What do you think? Do I drill the bigger holes or just go with pop. I wonder with the gas tanks if anybody would notice.

Brian
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Old 06-05-2012, 06:11 PM   #406
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I'd be afraid of leaks in the pop rivets. I'd do Olympics with vulkem.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:27 PM   #407
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Good Evening!

I have not put any work into the 1960 Overlander since last spring. Summer Vacation in my 73 Overlander, My daughters wedding, last month, and the most challenging work year in my life. I am focused on finishing this thing. I put the new battery box on today with the latch I had powder coated. It is good to be back and focused.
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Old 11-11-2012, 04:46 PM   #408
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Bout time! Good to se you back at it...
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:32 PM   #409
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I used an industrial size grinder with a thick guaged brush attached to remove all the old paint and rust around the gas tank area. I have been using silver POR-15 and it looks great. I do have a problem and it is the electric brake connection. I cannot figure out how to get it to come loose. I am afraid of breaking it. I have ruined things before trying to remove connections. I have pulled on it and tried to twist left and right but it won't budge.

How do I get this thing to come loose so I can get in their and wire brush the area so I can POR-15.

Brian
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:22 AM   #410
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I am bringing my last post forward again.

Brian
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:14 AM   #411
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Greetings Brian!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
I used an industrial size grinder with a thick guaged brush attached to remove all the old paint and rust around the gas tank area. I have been using silver POR-15 and it looks great. I do have a problem and it is the electric brake connection. I cannot figure out how to get it to come loose. I am afraid of breaking it. I have ruined things before trying to remove connections. I have pulled on it and tried to twist left and right but it won't budge.

How do I get this thing to come loose so I can get in their and wire brush the area so I can POR-15.

Brian
I think that you may be entering "uncharted waters" with this issue as I don't believe that is a factory installation on your son's 1960 Overlander. It appears to me that the connector that enters the banana wrap between the arms of the "A" frame is probably pot metal. If my suspicion is correct, the plug has probably remained undisturbed in the receptacle long enought the corrossion has likely "welded" the two pieces together. My guess is that you may need to open an access area in the belly pan/banana wrap immediately below the receptacle to access the rear of the receptacke to remove the attaching hardware.

I am working from memory of my good friend's 1960 Overlander so I may be incorrect. I believe that there is a junction box for the umbilical cord wiring in the belly pan of the coach on the curbside front corner. The junction box can be identified by a square/rectangular panel secured to the belly pan with either pop rivets or sheet metal screws. You are likely to find that all of the wires will be red with each wire having a specific number of "knots" that can be utilized to identify its function. There is a post in the Forums regarding the pattern to the knots.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:23 AM   #412
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kevin:

Great to hear from you. I appreciate your observation and I think I will just wire brush around it and wait unitl I take it to a Mom and Pop trailer sales and repair establishment. I will have them investigate the connection plus have them look at my leaf springs and brakes.

Brian
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:52 PM   #413
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I have compteted my second coat of silver por15 on the front area of my trailer where the tanks go. I guess you call that the tongue. It really looks good and matches the aluminum really well. I also took off both wheels on one side and used an industrial grinder with a wire brush and took off about 50+ years of rust. I did the same to the wheels. Everything recieved por15 in black. It looks like brand new and I am very pleased. Oh yeah I took the grinder with the brush took it down to bare metal and Por15 the bumper in silver and it looks great also. I don't have picks because I have not paid my yearly fee. I will get around to it just not today.

Brian
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:27 PM   #414
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Yearly fee?
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #415
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and Kevin is correct. I pulled the belly pan access panel down to get to my wiring. I cleaned it all up and sprayed it with electronic contact cleaner. Then sealed it all back and it made everything work ..
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:10 PM   #416
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Hi folks:

It has been a long time since I posted, but I am back in the saddle again and am determined to get this thing finished this summer. I have a question. I have all the orginal drain lines with the elbow made of metal for the bathroom sink hooked up like it used to be. Can I just run a streight line from the sink to the metal outlet. Is it necessary to have a trap in there? The old metal trap just wants to leak and it is kind of big and in the way

I also finished plumbing the water lines and went with thes Apollo Pex connectors that you stap on and tighten. Everyone leaks. I think I am going to change them out with Shark bites.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:48 PM   #417
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Hi folks:... Is it necessary to have a trap in there?...
The P trap will keep ugly aromas from belching back into the trailer. I'd put in a new one.

Oh, glad to see you back!
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:18 PM   #418
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I used PEx crimpers, they have not leaked at all. Crimper and rings found on pexuniverse.com
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Old 06-26-2013, 03:51 PM   #419
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Thanks guys:
I will be at it again tomorrow. I will keep the Pee trap
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:15 AM   #420
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It has been a pretty long time since I have been on here, but now I am back at it. I am under looking at the black tank and I have come to the conclusion it has been worked on since PVC is part of the mix. I do not have the old dump valve falange I have seen in the photos. I do not have a flange. I just have a huge metal elbow screwed up into the black tank (look at rusted elbow pipe on right side of photo). that comes out to PVC. PO ran the old gray water lines into the PVC. There is not a modern dump valve on it. The over flow pipe is broken off the black tank ( posted pic with the hole). I think I can plug the over flow valve.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Brian
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