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Old 10-01-2010, 04:21 PM   #21
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1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
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Hey Brian, looks like you may have found a real jewel there.

Here's what I did with the 12v converter doohicky: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f226...tml#post760293

You can't go wrong with Randy at Best Converter. He's good people, as we used to say. Give me a holler if you want me to come help kick some fuses and "smoke test" stuff.

Jim
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Old 10-01-2010, 04:45 PM   #22
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Meant to tell you that I'm helping a fellow forum member that lives near me put a new floor in his '74 Sovereign. He's using Nyloboard that he bought at the factory. He bought seconds and paid less than half price for it. It's fighting us tooth and nail, btw. I'm beginning to think the frame is bent. Could be just my workmanship, tho.

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Old 10-01-2010, 05:31 PM   #23
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1960 18' Traveler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
The furnace should never be tested.
I have been using the original Glen Aire furnace in my 1960 Traveler for 3 seasons now, Love it, works Great!
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Old 10-01-2010, 06:08 PM   #24
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Loganville , Georgia
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I am picking the trailer up Sunday. I am hearing all kinds of good stuff from you guys and getting good vibes. The guy that is selling me this trailer told me it was kept under a roof its whole life until two years ago. It has new tires and he told me his aunt had the trailers tires put on it. He is said usually when they do that they check the other stuff. I hope this is true information. I really do not want to change axels. Hearing about that furance is exciting. It looks like new. We only use the furnace in our other Overlander when we go to illinois. Really don't need it in Georgia.

Jim:

I might have to invite you over when I get the new converter and fuse panel. I will feed you steaks and some cervza fria (cold beer). I have already told my boy to invite his buddies over and I will buy a keg and steaks if they help me polish it. They all said H-ll yes. (They are 23 years of age). That is cool to hear about Nyloboard. I am assuming the worst and planning on doing some floor fixing.

I think the battery will be put under the front couch. This has a new electric refrigerator and microwave that has never been used.
I will have the stove and oven powder coated.

The goal is to get it ready for my son to take it to Bonnaroo. I think I will do a blog with restoration pictures. I want it road ready by next June.
I will be posting. People have done some neat things with the fresh water and black tanks. I probably will need to also.

Brian
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:21 PM   #25
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Really looking forward to seeing your pics. On the furnace, some friends of mine have had two 1959 trailers (an 18 footer and a Flying Could) both with the original tall furnace near the door (I believe these are Pannel Ray heaters), and both worked great. However, they had them bench tested by a shop before using them in the trailer. It only cost them about $75 which seems well worth the cost considering the downsides. A good CO monitor is also a must and not terribly expensive.

Fear of problems with furances in our trailers goes way back. Check out this letter I found in my original owner's paperwork.
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Old 10-01-2010, 08:23 PM   #26
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Let's try that attachment again.
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:49 AM   #27
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Where do you plug it to get A.C. I have a thirty amp cord in my 73. I am perplexed. I have looked every where..

I will have side pics of the trailer later. My son took those. This is what I took. Check them out.

Brian
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:52 AM   #28
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Water heater is something I will probably have to replace. I will need some good advice on that one. No problem putting the attwood in my 1973.
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:58 AM   #29
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One pic for today
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:19 AM   #30
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The fun begins. I will be moving this to a blog as soon as I set it up.
The project has a beginning of June 2011 deadline. I think we will make it. I just got to figure where I plug my A.C into it.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:26 AM   #31
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Brian, congratulations on getting it home. Looks like a great trailer. Have you checked out the outlet just behind your baggage door on the curbside? I think that is probably your A.C. connection point.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:30 AM   #32
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Looks like a great trailer for your restoration efforts. I agree with Norm that looks like the place to plug it in. If so, it will take a special cord end made by Bargman which are tough to find. Check every storage area in the trailer as you may find one or an adapter to fit this plug in.

I'm really looking forward to following your progress. Let us know in this thread when you get the blog going.

Brad
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:41 AM   #33
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The plug reciptical looks like a regular wall outlet. Do you think it may have been changed years ago?

Brian
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:11 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
The plug receptacle looks like a regular wall outlet. Do you think it may have been changed years ago?

Brian
It's quite possible that the inlet was "updated" at some time during the life of your trailer. If it is a female receptacle (which would require a male power feed from your source), I would not mess around with it and just immediately put in a new Marinco or similar type inlet. Check other areas on your trailer, but I'm guessing this is probably the inlet location since your electrical box is probably in the rear wardrobe just inside from that receptacle.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:17 AM   #35
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Anyway to provide a picture of this connection? Where is your 110 volt circuit breaker panel on the inside of the trailer? Like Norm, I think you should just upgrade it and be done with it and a Marinco would be an excellent choice.

Brad
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:21 AM   #36
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Brian, I'm curious what's lurking behind that white vent (among all the other interesting discoveries you will be making the next few days). I don't think that's the original furnace. The installation looks a lot like the installation of a Subarban NT-22 that the original owner of my trailer had Airstream do in the early '70s.
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Old 10-03-2010, 11:30 AM   #37
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I haven't got that far. I just ripped out the old ac outlet in the curbside back panel. I think the took what ever was there and replaced it with a regular out let. It is very corroded. I don't like the wire use. It looks like lamp wire. I think somebody made the change. I want to put in a mail end so I can just plug in and hook up.

Brian
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Old 10-03-2010, 12:28 PM   #38
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BTW - that rear curbside outlet may not be the shore power inlet. It may be a PO's version of an outside regular old outlet, especially if its lampwire. Can you trace the wires from your circuit breaker box to an external connection/connector? A PO on my trailer had made a pull out cord in the streetside wheelwell that plugged in to shore power. Who knows what any POs have done, maybe in an attempt to fix a prior POs work.

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Old 10-03-2010, 02:06 PM   #39
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I put the new outlet in and all the lights work. I will have an electrician I know go through the trailer and make sure it is safe. I have a princess stove and oven and all the burners work. I Did not try the oven. I don't even know how to light it. The furnace is an International 1225. I know nothing about it. I have been investigating looking for rot spots. I found one in the middle of the floor between the twin beds.

Today I am just investigating. I am trying to figure out where to put a fresh water tank. I did some measuring under the road side twin. I think if I put in a new water heater I can design a water tank that will hold 30 gallons. I will raise it about the duct work. I will have get one special ordered.

I reached under the bumper and found a hole that was cut into the belly pan under the sink. I stuck my had in there and the wood seemed ok for the most part. It really doesn't matter because I will be taking the bathroom apart and then I will see what I got. I have the original dump valve.

I am done for today.

Brian
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Old 10-04-2010, 06:52 PM   #40
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I have seen many thread were people have taken out the walls. I will be removing the walls from the bathroom. I can see where I need to drill rivets. I will pull the bathroom apart and get all that stuff out, but I do not want to crack my wood walls. They are in there really tight. I was looking to see how to remove the center piece of wood which holds the folding doors up.

Is removing this stuff pretty easy?

Brian
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