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Old 12-29-2011, 11:08 AM   #321
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I have a question before I get to much more involved in putting the Front Goucho back in. I have another water storage tank which is about 3.5 " higher then the old one. I raised the orginal bed frame to fit the new water storage tank. My bed sits 4" higher then it orginally did. I am also about 3 inches farther away from the wall. I have to cut new slats that tie into the wall. It looks great but I have stopped because I don't want to screw everything in and say oops didn't plan on that happening. I have to cut a new bed board and I will be cutting new bed foam. It should work. Anybody have any comments?

Brian
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Old 12-30-2011, 03:10 PM   #322
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I read on another post how a member took a dremel and ground down their olympic rivets. I was at Lowes and notice they sell a grinding wheel that has a concave center. I bought it and tried it out on my olympic rivets. It worked really well and I ground all the rivets that are around my hot water heater. I used a very fine sand paper to to eliminate any marks. It worked great. It did not take long. I will finish the ones that are where my new furnace is located. Trailer is moving along

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Old 12-31-2011, 09:34 AM   #323
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Olympic rivets snipped, ground down, and sanded with fine paper. I did not take long at all. Probably 1 hour and 45 minutes.

Brian
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Old 12-31-2011, 09:35 AM   #324
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The water heater area. Olympic rivets ground down

Brian
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:24 PM   #325
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Good idea on the olympic rivets. I have a few to do and may go that same route.I do have a dremel I can try too.
Not sure about your Gaucho, when I put mine in the 80 that was in my 78, I measured 3 times before I mounted the wall parts. Worked out well. I had to be sure it would slide down and open correctly before I drilled or screwed anything.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:43 PM   #326
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My wife and son did not want the old vanity in the bathroom. They felt it was to low and not enough room to work. We bought a prefab one on sale at homedepot. I cut a few inches off the bottom and put it in place. It will work and they will have more room and a nicer faucet. We bought the faucet at a pawn shop. It was still in the box. It all looks great, but I have mixed feelings about it all. Everything is original and that will be the only thing that will have significant change. The vanity, refrigerator and stove will be different. I will hold on to the old vanity. Who knows I may change it out down the road.

Inside pics coming as soon as I get the other twin bolted down and another bedroom light put back together.

Brian
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Old 01-07-2012, 08:55 AM   #327
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I built the case for the new Suburban Furnace and I am heading to Lowes to buy a metal grill. I will stain and put the grill in. I should have pics hopefully tomorrow. I did miter cuts for the sides to make every thing look flush.

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Old 01-07-2012, 07:53 PM   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian
The water heater area. Olympic rivets ground down

Brian
Your welcome to use my rivet shaver. :-)
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Old 01-08-2012, 03:47 AM   #329
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Myrtle Lynn:

Good to hear from you. I have been meaning to make a trip to Athens and visit. I was planning on borrowing your shaver. What happened was I saw a concaved dremel grinder at Lowes when I got an idea, bought it and tried it on one rivet. It worked great. I just kept going and got them finished.

Making progress with the interior. We are pretty close to finishing the inside. I now need to finish the outside. I am looking to use a sand blaster (Sodium bicarb instead of sand) to do the underbelly. Sodium Bicarb will not hurt the underside.

I saw a 1955 Airstream for sale recently. The price was decent for it. I would have loved to buy it but the 1960 has been a long project and my daughter is getting married. Big expenses coming my way soon.

I will try to make a trip up to the carwash. I want to get the truck washed and the interior cleaned. See ya soon. Stay in touch

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Old 01-08-2012, 09:20 PM   #330
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian
Myrtle Lynn:

Good to hear from you. I have been meaning to make a trip to Athens and visit. I was planning on borrowing your shaver. What happened was I saw a concaved dremel grinder at Lowes when I got an idea, bought it and tried it on one rivet. It worked great. I just kept going and got them finished.

Making progress with the interior. We are pretty close to finishing the inside. I now need to finish the outside. I am looking to use a sand blaster (Sodium bicarb instead of sand) to do the underbelly. Sodium Bicarb will not hurt the underside.

I saw a 1955 Airstream for sale recently. The price was decent for it. I would have loved to buy it but the 1960 has been a long project and my daughter is getting married. Big expenses coming my way soon.

I will try to make a trip up to the carwash. I want to get the truck washed and the interior cleaned. See ya soon. Stay in touch

Brian
I have been busy. This is the busy time of year for the car wash. Well it he shaver is here if you ever decide. I am heading down to Key West this Friday with the 345 Moho. So wait till after this coming weekend to get the truck washed. :-) your sons as is looking great. Good luck and come visit. I only have 5 Airstreams on my lot. Sold a lot and hard to find more. Oh well. Take care.
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Old 01-09-2012, 04:23 PM   #331
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Key West in the MOHO sounds great. We did a loop around most of Fla when we had ours.
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Old 01-09-2012, 08:00 PM   #332
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
The water heater area. Olympic rivets ground down

Brian
That is some great work!
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Old 01-10-2012, 05:24 PM   #333
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HiHo:

I have been following your work and find what you have accomplished to be amazing. Thanks for the compliment.

Brian
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Old 01-15-2012, 01:55 PM   #334
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Suburban Furnace cover is completed and in place. You can see a sliver of the channel to the right. My wife is making the cushion for the top as I type.

I wired the second bedroom light to DC. I am running AC tomorrow.


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Old 01-15-2012, 02:33 PM   #335
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The seat is finished and in place.

Brian
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Old 01-16-2012, 03:41 AM   #336
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I have a heating duct that goes under the kitchen and into the back bedroom. I have two more 4" holes to run heating ducts. The Suburban nt-30 directions state that you should you run no less then three heating ducts. I orginally planned on only two so here is my question.

Can I run a second heating duct exiting out of the right side of the box and leave the third one open so it can vent out the perforated grill in the front?

Brian
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Old 01-16-2012, 05:21 AM   #337
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Brian you will need to duct the hot air from the furnace away from the enclosure otherwise it will be picked up by the return air. That would have the return air too hot and the high limit switch will start tripping.
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Old 01-21-2012, 04:47 PM   #338
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I started to dismantle the counter top on the galley cabinets. We made a decision to put a new counter top on the kitchen cabinets. I should have it out tomorrow and will get a new one cut and laminated. The more we work on the trailer and get the interior restored the more things we decide to work on that we were happy with earlier.

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Old 01-22-2012, 09:17 AM   #339
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Counter top is out and we will have a new top next week. I am really excited about this because it is going to make the interior really pop when it is re-installed.

Brian
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:36 AM   #340
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Brian,

Make sure you save all the little clips and wood spacers that are used to attach the sink to the counter top. You will need those if you are going to reuse the sink.

On your furnace, the cover looks great. That is the same grill material I used. Chris is right though, you will have to run the heat ducts away from the furnace. The grill in front is your cold air return and the heat exit must be at least a few feet away from that area (the instructions tell you how many feet). I ran one duct to the bedroom, one to the kitchen cabinet under the drawers, and one up to the front under the dinette framing. There should be enough room on the left (while facing the sink) side of the kitchen cabinet under the drawers to install a 4" round duct. For the third duct, if you don't have a dinette, you may need to fabricate something to cover a short duct run towards the front.

Norm
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