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Old 03-26-2011, 12:02 PM   #221
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I just took the old wires and replaced them and put a new fuse on.

I will check

Brian
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Old 03-27-2011, 08:37 AM   #222
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I have been searching the forums for examples of my 1960 era trailer and it's wiring. I noticed I do not have a fuse for the 12 volt. Everything went to the air pump. I am going to take the pump out and ground the white wire to the trailer. I am going to try to locate the other 12 volt wires. I hope I can determine what is what.

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Old 03-27-2011, 09:59 AM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
I have been searching the forums for examples of my 1960 era trailer and it's wiring. I noticed I do not have a fuse for the 12 volt. Everything went to the air pump. I am going to take the pump out and ground the white wire to the trailer. I am going to try to locate the other 12 volt wires. I hope I can determine what is what.

Brian
Brian, here's a picture of what my original 12v wiring "center" looked like. The wires for the lights and other 12v applicances besides the water pump, all go into the wall through the three grommets. Have you found a similar fuse block or holes in the wall near the curbside front quarter?

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Old 03-27-2011, 02:18 PM   #224
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Norm:

I am posting a pic of the wires. I hope I can find out what they go to. I tied together a used converter and a 1973 fuse panel so I can install it into the 1960 overlander. I think it should go pretty well (Knock Knock on wood). I have all the wires for the fuse panel even the ones that read the gauges on the airstream panel.) I have half of the old battery wires from a 73 hooked to the fuse panel. They are much thicker then the orginal 1960 wires. I have to figure how to hook it all up.

There never has been any fuses. Previous owners must have taken them out and by passed them.

We have had some rain and my trailer leaked really bad. First time it did that since I owned it. It leaked up front which is a first.

Brian
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:44 PM   #225
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I'll post this but it's not worth much. It's the original wiring diagram that was attached inside the closet of my '63.

The only thing worth noting is there are NO 12v fuses. Mine had a single 12v auto resetting breaker right at the battery...I'm betting it was added on at a later date.
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Old 03-27-2011, 03:56 PM   #226
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Thanks:

I will try to make sense of it all.

Thanks again

Brian
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:32 AM   #227
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Now we own Four RV stoves.

We found one which is brand new and will fit. We got it by bidding on it and got a great deal.

Brian
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:56 AM   #228
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I am going to buy a 9volt battery and hook it to each wire and test each wire at a light switch with a multimeter. A forum member (Lewis) suggested. I will make sure my 12 volt is not hooked up and the AC is off. Would you think one of the wires might be AC? 1 black, 1 white, 1 red, and 2 blue.

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Old 03-29-2011, 08:07 AM   #229
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When I got my '59, there were two light blue wires that came out of a grommetted hole in this same location. A PO had wired in an in-line fuse from one blue wire to the other one. I had no idea what these wires went to so I bit the bullet and hooked each one up to 12 volt power. One of them ended up being the two small overhead lights, one in the galley area and the other in the bathroom. I never did figure out what the other one went to. Mine is basically a park model so no original 12 volt on board. These wires were powered from the tow vehicle from a separate plug that is on the outside of this area on the curbside front corner.

IIRC, you have an Int'l model or at least the Land Yacht model so you should check out the color of the wires in your battery box up front. At least you'd know which ones hooked to the battery. Based on your picture, it looks as though your rig had a two glass fuse block there at one time. Are all of the wires single strand or are there any stranded wires?

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Old 03-29-2011, 08:33 AM   #230
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. The battery wires were black and white. The black had the line fuse on it and they were really old and nasty. I changed them out with new wire. The new wire is not in the picture. The wire showing in the pic is coming from the interior walls. I will try to test blue wires first. In my brain I am thinking the black is a hot wire for things like the fans and the white is a ground. The red????????? I have no clue. It will be a process checking each wire.

Thanks for the info on the blue. That is where I will start.

Brian
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:36 PM   #231
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On my '63, the blue wires go to all of the interior 12v stuff, all are blue. Lights, pump, switched, everything...blue wire. Splices were behind the walls. The wiring folks musta only had a roll of blue.

Running and brakes lights were standard colors.

White and Black are 120V.

Did I mention they used blue wire?
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:40 PM   #232
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The white is a one piece copper wire and stiff. I am thinking the black and white might be A.C. I will test them Saturday. I think I might be piecing it together. The black and white wire our the same size and guage wire going to my A.C. lights. If that is true then the blue and red our twelve volt and the black and white are hot and neutral for A.C.

Thanks a bunch

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Old 03-31-2011, 03:16 AM   #233
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in this era, all connections within in the 110 "should be" within a junction box or inside the fixture. The 12 volt stuff might be spliced within the wall, but the all 110 connections should be in a box. Black and white being 110 is how it should be also. White is the + and Black is the -. You might also think about "jumping onto" the 12 volt. It is easy to do. The trailer( any metal surface) is the ground and then you can power into the system with the plus at just about any fixture. There is only two circuits here and if the loop is not cut somewhere the entire circuit will power up. Try just a battery with leads to start.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:33 AM   #234
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Frank:

I noticed when I was taking the air pump out of the trailer the fuse box for the 12 volt was gone. the wiring looked Half &*(&^^, and I guessed things were not correct. I am all over it this Saturday.

I have a mass of black and white wires lined up on the floor under the sink. they are all wadded up and taped. I have to figure those out also.

Trailer is coming together. Things are moving, but slowly.

Brian
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Old 03-31-2011, 03:24 PM   #235
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I was thinking about my post and realized how simple I could have explained it...
if you take a battery and connect two leads to it. Then connect the negative to the frame and or skin. Touch the positive to the 12 volt wire coming out the wall, the line should come on. Though, it might be blue in yours, it "should be" orange stranded #12 wire in your era. All the 12 volt in that loop should also work then.
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:18 AM   #236
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Hey Frank, when I had the skins out of mine, I noticed an orange run of wire that was coiled up and taped to the outer skin, on the streetside rear quarter panel. It was just there, extra, not hooked into anything. Any idea what that's for?

-Marcus
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Old 04-02-2011, 07:17 PM   #237
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the flux generator
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Old 04-05-2011, 03:55 PM   #238
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the flux generator
Ah yes, of course!

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Old 04-05-2011, 06:52 PM   #239
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the flux generator
I'm familiar with the flux capacitor but not the flux generator. Does this replace the need for lugging around a heavy power generator and this one runs on banana peels? How cool is that??

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Old 04-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #240
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Brian, someone's trying to sell your son's trailer. "Classy" 1960 Overlander
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