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Old 05-22-2006, 07:13 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatPumpkin
The only other wiring modifications that I've found so far is UF (underground feed) Romex also attached underneath the trailer, running to the refrigerator area. It then enters the trailer and runs up the fridge vent inside, exits at the fridge vent and goes over to the Duo Therm A/C. The A/C doesn't work, but I'm not planning on tackling that project until much later. I don't anticipate using it anyways - it would be nice if I could get it working, but if not not a big loss.
Sounds like the PO had the air conditioner hooked up to the Romex you found. Fred, correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't 1964 the first year most Airstreams were wired and plumbed for air conditioning from the factory?
If so, you can probably find the original wire to the A/C, and hook it back up. Ours has a tendency to trip the circuit breaker in the coach if we are running the air, and more than a few small appliances, maybe yours had the same issue, with a umm, "field modification" to solve the problem.
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:45 PM   #22
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Wanted to work on the AS yesterday after work, but was to tired to do much. I took a few rags and my met-all polish and polished around the window frames by hand. Wow what a difference. I had already polished the access doors as I wanted to see what the trailer will potentially look like when it's all done. I didn't want just some section done as it will be awhile before it all gets polished. The shine reflecting off the rivets looks great - inspires me to stop putting it off and order the buffer pads and the Nuvite! I'm also going to try the Diamond Brite from Lowes that someone else had mentioned here. The Met-all is very old and came with the trailer when I bought it. It works great for taking off the oxidation and getting a shine, but will still need a fine polish with Nuvite or something else.
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Old 05-24-2006, 07:32 PM   #23
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Did you ever get that polisher someone tried to sell you on here? That was a strange happening.
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:43 PM   #24
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Did you ever get that polisher someone tried to sell you on here? That was a strange happening.
No - fundave is awol. He hasn't responded to emails or phone calls and hasn't posted since then. ???
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:07 PM   #25
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Bargman 99's

Need a source for the Bargman 99 cakelight gasket. My lenses are fine, but gaskets are shot allowing water into the housing. I looked at Inland RV and Vintage Trailer Supply, but no luck.
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:28 PM   #26
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Become a craftsperson ....

and make your own gasket from a sheet (or 2) of gasket material available at finer auto parts stores. Use your plastic lens as the template. I'm lazier and just squeezed a bead of Vulkem around the top half of the lamp backing plate where it meets the edge of the lens, leaving the bottom half of the lens open for any wayward water to drain out of. Its not too noticeable on my heavily ozidized, light absorbing '64 GT.
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Old 05-28-2006, 06:58 PM   #27
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What was the sealant originally used between the light housing and the trailer body? It's a very pliable gray material about an 1" wide, but does not look like it was ever squeezed out of a tube.
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Old 05-28-2006, 07:30 PM   #28
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Ours has the same thing. It is almost a formed butyl rubber gasket Which is probably something else we could use as gasket material. This is the stuff that either comes in a tube, and is squeezed out, a' la caulking compound, or comes in strings to be pressed into shape, for example, winshield gaskets.
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:05 PM   #29
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Searching for the magic elixer....

DIAMOND BRITE

Got a bottle from Lowes. ($14) It was recommended by robandzoe here: http://www.airforums.com/forum...62-post21.html

I've got to say, it takes the gray oxidation right off with little effort, however it does not appear to remove the heavy oxidation or filiform off. Looking at robandzoe's pictures and posts, I must not be using the same technique. I just tried a little right out of the bottle (by hand), following the directions. It worked as well as the met-all that I've been using with a buffer, with much less effort!

I'm going to have to get some input from rob because it appears to work wonders for him.

Anyone remember the old Tarn-X commercials? You just dipped the metal in and instant shine! Why hasnít anyone come up with a Tarn-X carwash system? Iíve got it! Any venture capitalists out there that wants to invest in my new business? Ė An Airstream car-wash that sprays Tarn-X instead of water. Weíll make millions, send all your money now to get rich quick on this ground breaking opportunity!
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:26 PM   #30
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Clearcoat removed?

On my 65, I had to remove the clearcoat first. Then use the magic elixer. I used a ICI / Devoe paints 502-t stripper. Once the clearcoat is off, take some Diamond brite and put a little on your buffer pad. Rub it in to the aluminum a little before hitting it with the electric, then buff a 6x6 area and keep buffing until all the polish is gone. Make sure the buffer is at a low (not high / fast) speed. It works fast. Keep me posted.

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Old 05-30-2006, 08:30 PM   #31
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Thanks, I'll try that method. I don't have a clearcoat on mine, just oxidation!

How many bottles did it take for your Caravel?
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Old 05-30-2006, 08:35 PM   #32
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You'll get dirty

It'll get black, and keep going, in small areas, until the black is drawn into the buffer pad. What type of pad are you using? Polisher?
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Old 06-01-2006, 10:48 PM   #33
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Quote:
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It'll get black, and keep going, in small areas, until the black is drawn into the buffer pad. What type of pad are you using? Polisher?
Currently most of my polishing has been done using Met-All, by hand! I've also used a 10" car buffer with a terrycloth cover. The Met-All gets rid of the heavy oxidation great, but is definitely not good enough for a mirror finish. The diamond Brite cut through the initial gray oxidation with much less effort than the Met-All, but so far has left about the same finish. I'm waiting on the new bonnets to arrive so I can try it with power equipment

I've ordered a polisher/sander from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92623 Love their prices, but they are pretty slow in the shipping department.

I do plan on purchasing a cyclo for the final polish and subsequent (yearly?) polishes.
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Old 06-04-2006, 02:31 PM   #34
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I'm drowning!

Help - water water everywhere, and not a drop to drink.

I've got leaks - big suprise I know, but I need some advice on how to tackle my window leaks.

Rainstorm today cancelled/postponed my daughters softball tournament (she's undefeated!) so I went out to take a look at the AS and discovered it was leaky even worse than I previously thought. My front and rear window leak very badly - what's the best way to fix that? Do I need to drill out the rivets from the outside and remove it? Install new vulkem and re-install, or is that more extreme than neccesary?The front one is the worst, The drop down rock guard was "fixed" by the P.O. by screwing the top back into the body and putting silicone around the top corners. That created bigger holes for the water to come thru. Both gutters are somewhate bent - should I remove them and vulkem, or can I fix any these leaks without removal?

Second problem - what is this drain tube and where does it come from? It's got a steady stream of water running down it - the outside, not the inside of the tube.
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Old 06-04-2006, 02:35 PM   #35
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Drain tube circled:
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:07 PM   #36
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still leaking.....

Any ideas, suggestions?
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:21 PM   #37
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Shiny is indeed Good!

Quote:
Originally Posted by robandzoe
It'll get black, and keep going, in small areas, until the black is drawn into the buffer pad. What type of pad are you using? Polisher?
On a lighter (shinier ) note......
This is using the Diamond Brite and my car buffer (still waiting on Harbor Freight's snail delivery system). I think I figured it out - small amount of polish, small area, go slowwww! I read the polishing threads, but somehow I still managed to turn on the buffer before rubbing the placing it against the AS - I've now got white speckles on me everywhere!

First picture - is that filiform, or just deep corrosion?

Third picture - anyone able to tell me what brand of awning this is/was? Framework is all there and works, but awning is completely gone. What you see is all that remains of the front edge of the awning.
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:23 PM   #38
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Old 06-05-2006, 09:36 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Any ideas, suggestions?
I think it might be the old vent tube for the long gone battery cover, and I think that tube goes up to the slightly hooded hole in the outer skin about 3 inches or so above where the tube enters the metal. Try putting a dab of vulkem along the top edge of that hooded vent cover where it meets the body skin.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:00 PM   #40
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I think it might be the old vent tube for the long gone battery cover, and I think that tube goes up to the slightly hooded hole in the outer skin about 3 inches or so above where the tube enters the metal. Try putting a dab of vulkem along the top edge of that hooded vent cover where it meets the body skin.
THANK YOU!
That also answered my question as to what the heck this was?

Any ideas on the window leaks? Do I need to remove and reinstall, or just vulkem around the top of the gutter and edges?
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