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Old 07-30-2011, 06:20 AM   #81
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1968 28' Ambassador
Hillsdale , Michigan
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if you still have the tv antenna I could use it on our 68 amassador! (we have the mount and manual rotator) The
Wife and I are definitely newbies!
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:00 AM   #82
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Well, it's been a while since I posted on this thread. Thought I would update it, just in case anyone wants to know.

This morning at 2:30 am, I hooked up my new bargman whip to the new 7 way on my old truck and tested out the lights and brakes. Everything worked perfectly. We're getting ready for a little camping trip after a 4 hour drive out. As of right now, I don't have water, or heat, but I do have a solid electrical system. Don't have propane. We grabbed a bucket potty off Amazon, and will just keep that in the rear bath. Glorified tent camping I guess.

As of right now, I have new battery, new electrical, new tires, rims, axles and shocks. New bargman 7 way, new disconnect, 2 new fantastic fans, new kitchen faucet, and new goucho cushions. Maybe by Friday I might have water in the new freshwater container, and maybe have a couple lines hooked up. I've had the new hot water heater in the box for 6 months. It was a busy summer. I installed a big zipline in the backyard for the boys, finally sold my rental house, and had all sorts of beekeeping obligations to take care of. I'll take some pictures soon. License plate is TIN2GO.
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Old 09-28-2012, 04:43 PM   #83
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Another update. I can't believe it's been almost a whole year. After the last post, I found I had somehow injured my rotator cuff working on the trailer - possibly laying on one side working on those stupid lights. We spent a few very cold nights in there, but loved it. Since that last update, the new electronic ignition hot water tank is in, and hooked up, and I started polishing. I had many other interruptions over the year, but I'm getting back into the restoration now. We had a mild winter that I could have used on the Airstream, but instead I did a lot of gardening, and then a lot of bee keeping jobs (I take them out of houses). Anyway, going to start posting again as I keep up the work.
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:24 PM   #84
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Been a while since I updated. Still working on it. The original toilet was shot. Though several folks said I should try to save the swirl-o-matic, there were too many broken parts inside, and the pot metal had turned to dust. Then, when I filled the original black tank to test it for integrity, it was cracked. Instead, I decided to add 2 gray tanks above the axles, then tie those into the new black tank. I fabricated them all myself out of black ABS, chemically welded, then heat welded, then resealed again with ABS liquified in MEK. I went back to the original configuration of the rear hookup in the bumper for the hookups. I also mounted tank washers in each tank, and those will be tied together so they all spray at the same time. That may prove to be an issue in the future. I don't know. Let me know if there is a reason I shouldn't do that. I guess I could put a valve in to separate that, just don't see a need now. I had to put t nuts to tie down the toilet elevation block. Oddly enough, I could have gone with a higher toilet. I thought that the short toilet would allow me to fit it into the rear storage compartment. Alas, it was half an inch too big in any dimension that would work. I had to disassemble the toilet to get it in, then reassemble it by screwing it back together through the hole where the tank was going to be. They had these little nuts that break off when it's put together, so I had to fish those out, then hot glue and tape them to reinsert them into the toilet.

The straps are from a roll of galvanized hurricane strapping. I cut, then bent them on the vise. They are under just a little tension, holding them to the floor. The floor sagged a little, so I put in a piece of angle iron above the floor right in front of the toilet to level it out, again using t-nuts since I can't drill through the floor, as a screw would hit into the black tank.

The toilet had to be done over and over again until I got all the measurements right. I saved the original pedal and cut a new slot and am building an extension arm for the foot flush, so only the very keen eye would know that the foot pedal is off to the right instead of centered like the original 64. I sealed the old hole with fiberglass, and will repair the cutout for the seat as well with fiberglass. I tried and tried to nibble away at that opening, and in the end, I just have a big gap around the toilet seat in the back. However, I now have a modern toilet in a vintage trailer, and I didn't cut my bench apart to do it.
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:28 PM   #85
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Some additional pics. Still hard to believe it took me a couple days to get this tank and the toilet in there just right. I've been sitting on this project for a little while thinking through all the parameters. It feels great to have it all together. Next week, I hook up the gray tanks, fill everything to the brim, then start with insulation, and finally putting my belly pan back on. I painted the frame with POR 15 while I had it open, and then undercoating. Unfortunately, I pinched some of the old propane lines, so I'll be replacing those when the time comes.
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:32 PM   #86
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oh, and it was so tight in there, I couldn't use elevator bolts to tie down the toilet. Again, t-nuts to the rescue. I filed down 2 sides, then threaded a larger 1/4" bolt into them from the top, with a nut and washer attached. Then, I just tightened down the nut and it's all rock solid.

Those Dometic toilets are awesome. I can't tell you how many times I moved that sucker around in there. Never a chip or a crack anywhere, and I had to put a little muscle on it.
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:14 AM   #87
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Whoo Hoo. I closed up the belly pan this weekend. I was so sore trying to get all those panels up. I ended up wearing out my hand riveter and got the harbor freight pneumatic. It took a while to get it adjusted to work, but eventually did and things went on pretty well. Then, I had insomnia for 3 hours going over every inch of that belly pan in my head trying to make sure I remembered everything, afraid I'd have to open it back up again....
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Old 09-16-2014, 02:46 PM   #88
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Just a couple more pics

So there were a few more updated pics. The toilet had a straight output that put pressure on the line as it was pushed right up against the access hatch. I found a 90 degree that allowed me to take the pressure off that piece. You can see how it loops up over the back of the toilet and goes into the blue pex supply line. The other pics are the straps. They may be hard to see, but you can get the idea if you look at previous posts To hang the tanks, I took galvanized hurricane straps and bent them on my bench vice. Then, I drilled a hole through a tab and dropped a large toilet bolt through the floor, and then threaded on a lock washer and the final washer. The toilet bolts were recessed into the floor, then covered with bondo to keep them from moving/spinning. I probably should have used a plastic thread lock nut on top of that too, as I never want to have to go back up in there, but it is what it is. The Airstream techs I guess would have hit it sideways with a hammer. On some straps, I couldn't get the bolt in there for one reason or another. In those cases, I ran a strap across the frame member on the bottom. I drilled the hole slightly off center to put tension on the strap. There was an extra space on each side since I made my tanks taper to the center, so I ripped a piece of abs the width of the strap, and that filled in the gap. Once the belly pan is on, the bellypan itself will ensure the weight of the tank does little to pull the frame towards the tank as it will be secured above by the floor, and below by the belly pan, spanning all the frame members.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:15 PM   #89
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Got the axles back on finally! Made some changes too. The trunk compartment, though aluminum, was badly corroded. I sanded it, then just painted it silver so it wouldn't react to the frame any longer. I also added a whole string of silicone impregnated LED lights in the trunk compartment, and 3 backup lights - 7 watt LEDs. Now I can get my stinky slinky in the bumper and not have to carry it in the tube on top of the bumper. It's completely back to original, except now I have backup lights, lights in the trunk and gray tanks and a single valve for hookup and I can dump either tanks. Plus I have tank washers in all the tanks. Can't wait to go camping. It's been on jacks for over a year.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:16 PM   #90
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The new tail end
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:17 PM   #91
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Here it is with the access door open, the hose hooked up, and ready to go. The light is coming from the LED lights inside. I won't need a flashlight for hookups.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:41 AM   #92
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The info on your renovation! What model Dometic toilet did you. Use? If you hadn't had to replace the tank (. Mine is fine) would the location have worked? My fiberglass and seat cover are tithe same color as yours.
Thanks for posting!
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:09 AM   #93
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The info on your renovation! What model Dometic toilet did you. Use? If you hadn't had to replace the tank (. Mine is fine) would the location have worked? My fiberglass and seat cover are tithe same color as yours.
Thanks for posting!
Thetford makes the best toilets.

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Old 09-29-2014, 10:39 AM   #94
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The Dometic 311. The location doesn't work. It's about half an inch off. The hole needs to be I think closer to the front of the trailer. I can't remember right now. Look for my other posts as I think I may have more info on the toilet replacement. Be warned though, the 311 will not fit into the trunk area through your rear compartment. It is only maybe an inch off in any direction, I also chose the short toilet, but the tall may have worked. I just assumed that i could get it in based on the opening if I chose the smaller toilet.

In hindsight, I'm not sure if it was simpler the way I did it as opposed to taking out half the bathroom and bench. You'll have to cut the fiberglass in the back to get the cover part of the seat there. However, after looking at the seat, the only part in this model is a special valve that pops up. There may be enough room to just get that valve up in between the bench and the back wall without cutting the fiberglass. I'm comitted now, but in hindsight, it may have just been better to cut the plastic seat than to cut my fiberglass bench. I had to re-fiberglass around it, then I will match the original paint, airbrush it, then recaulk and airbrush again, and it should be an exact match. Although it will be more of a pain to clean that way. One way to do it is to wrap the back part in release foil, then caulk, so it's a flexible seal when i pull the seat back out.

Anyway, 311, and if you don't take the bench out, you'll have to drop the tank, take the toilet apart, then reinsert these little plastic washers back together (they'll get lost in the china part of the toilet). It's a pretty tedious process - hence I suggest taking the bench out and doing it topside - although I believe that includes taking the cap off the tub. It's all going to be a pain. I think it might be easier for you to go online and find someone that does custom 3d printing and have them print anything that's broken on your toilet if you're not too far gone.
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Old 09-29-2014, 10:54 AM   #95
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Thanks so much! I have looked a that model several times, thinking it might work. Appreciate all ur info! Very helpful!
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:17 PM   #96
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Airnovice, is your floor original? I like the red. It also looks like your toilet has been changed at least once. The original flush pedal was in the center (where you see the cutout) It is also missing the pipe that was in the middle for the vacuum break. Mine also had a knob for the water that would fill the toilet - yours looks like a little silver knob, similar to the one used in a faucet. As far as your shower - I was able to easily replace the washers and valve seats for that and keep the original setup. Your trailer looks as in good shape as mine.

By they way, you don't have gray tanks in your trailer. I would do mine a tiny bit different if I were to redo my gray tanks. If you ever go that route, let me know, and if you ever make it as far as Richmond, VA, let me know, and I can you show you what I've done on my trailer. It's been a long haul.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:28 PM   #97
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One last thing, the seat on the 311 is longer. I can't imagine how anyone, especially a guy, could use the original, tiny bowl. My new toilet bowl is much larger, and so is the seat. Which means, it won't really cover the original. I'll be taking out my original padded seat cover and building a larger, then covering it with new vinyl. We're not huge fans of the forest green, and looking at updating it with a more teal or turquois vinyl which closer coordinates with the appliances and floor. It should brighten things up a bit, while still looking like it could have been original.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:35 PM   #98
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Airnovice, is your floor original? I like the red. It also looks like your toilet has been changed at least once. The original flush pedal was in the center (where you see the cutout) It is also missing the pipe that was in the middle for the vacuum break. Mine also had a knob for the water that would fill the toilet - yours looks like a little silver knob, similar to the one used in a faucet. As far as your shower - I was able to easily replace the washers and valve seats for that and keep the original setup. Your trailer looks as in good shape as mine.

By they way, you don't have gray tanks in your trailer. I would do mine a tiny bit different if I were to redo my gray tanks. If you ever go that route, let me know, and if you ever make it as far as Richmond, VA, let me know, and I can you show you what I've done on my trailer. It's been a long haul.

Just bought my Overlander in August. Have been looking for the right one. The floors now removed included the carpet tiles u see in photo as well as a 9" square vinyl tile which I think was original. I am tithe third owner. Yes the stool was changed out very early, like '66 I think. No reason but replacement info in folder from original owner. Understand no gray water tank. Don't plan to add one now. Want to go far enough to be able to use. Thanks for help.
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Old 09-29-2014, 05:36 PM   #99
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The 9 inch gold flek tile was original to mine. Door seal and vent seals were my very first project. Keep it dry as much as you can.
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Old 10-19-2014, 08:07 PM   #100
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Filled in the furnace finally! 3 years to get around to this. I had some foil bubble wrap and aluminum tape over this hole for the last 3 years - still can't believe it held for 2 trips down the highway - though I did have to use paint remover to get the adhesive off. I sanded the couple of original rivets under this and any other bumps to make the patch smooth. Filled every hole with Vulkem, the multiple beads around. The funny thing is that they used butyl tape on the original, so the patch is much flatter than an original seam.
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