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overlander64 · 02-09-2011, 09:51 AM

Greetings Rob!

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwok

Thanks Kevin. Is it possible anyone in the forum has a picture of this? I may keep with my original plans for now of just a portable AC that rolls around in the room, but if that doesn't work this season, I may go with the other. Right now, I'm just trying to learn as much as possible, then assemble my materials and parts in the garage so they're ready the first warm day I get.

Rob

I don't have any photos of the installation in my album right now, but I will be traveling to my farm where the trailer is stored sometime this week so I could take a photo when I am there. I kept the drain in place - - it just isn't connected to the air conditioner.

Kevin

Inland RV Center, In · 02-09-2011, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwok

Thanks Kevin. Is it possible anyone in the forum has a picture of this? I may keep with my original plans for now of just a portable AC that rolls around in the room, but if that doesn't work this season, I may go with the other. Right now, I'm just trying to learn as much as possible, then assemble my materials and parts in the garage so they're ready the first warm day I get.

Rob

AC drain tubes were not installed until the 1969 models.

A plastic tube can be fished from the AC, thru the shell into a rooflocker. The tubing can then go rearward, within the roof locker, to a closet, then downward thru the floor. Keep in mind that the tubing must always have a downward slope.

Easy to do, and not very expensive.

This type of installation completely hides the drain line from normal view. The tubing can be fastened to the interior wall with simple hose clamps.

It's also best to have the drain line exit on the road side of the trailer.

Andy

NoMoSOBs · 03-05-2011, 07:29 AM

Rob, I haven't taken the time to read through this entire thread yet, but I did want to post my congratulations on picking up that sweet Overlander! I live 4 miles from the previous owner, and for years I passed his driveway and admired that little beauty. Then a month or so ago I see it pop up on craigslist and I couldn't believe it! I e-mailed and was told he wanted to trade for a cargo trailer, so I kept pressing for a price, and the day he finally told me what he wanted for it, the ad disappeared from craigslist. If I had known it was that clean inside, I'd have driven over there and camped out on his doorstep! Hindsight, I guess. Again, congrats on that deal, and hope to see you around the area using it!

Splitrock · 03-05-2011, 09:19 AM

I didn't read every post in the thread. Sorry if this has been asked.

What's the deal with the awning supports?

Gary

robwok · 03-05-2011, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoMoSOBs

Rob, I haven't taken the time to read through this entire thread yet, but I did want to post my congratulations on picking up that sweet Overlander! I live 4 miles from the previous owner, and for years I passed his driveway and admired that little beauty. Then a month or so ago I see it pop up on craigslist and I couldn't believe it! I e-mailed and was told he wanted to trade for a cargo trailer, so I kept pressing for a price, and the day he finally told me what he wanted for it, the ad disappeared from craigslist. If I had known it was that clean inside, I'd have driven over there and camped out on his doorstep! Hindsight, I guess. Again, congrats on that deal, and hope to see you around the area using it!

Sorry to beat you to it John, but hey, I had none, and you had one, so now we're even?

It's not been a perfect setup. I finally realized the popped rivets and broken cabinet up front were probably due to a rough ride with the old axles. I spent all day today taking off the old door gaskets and putting new ones on, as well as the front rock guard. It's an aftermarket guard and they did a poor job of it, which I believe is where the water damage from the door came from. I went out there in the rain this past week to check for leaks and had a stream coming in from the front window. They had to take off the original airstream nameplate and move it up a couple inches for the rockguard. I'm probably going to put it back on, with butyl tape and stanless or olympic rivets, but will probably replace the old fiberglass guard with Lexan, and put window tinting on it.

robwok · 03-05-2011, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Splitrock

I didn't read every post in the thread. Sorry if this has been asked.

What's the deal with the awning supports?

Gary

Not quite sure what you mean. The camera may have fish eyed the pic a little. I didn't really set them up correctly, I was just checking the condition of the awning, which turns out to be about perfect. The awning is an A&E brand, which is still made. Mine works fine, but the parts are looking a bit worn - the ones that have been in the sun. Some rust as well. I think I will replace the setup they have - which is a steel lag screw into the rib, with a stainless, and a rive nut - since the second screw on the bracket is held by nothing but the skin. I may go up top and do the same, but not sure what the setup is and how well they waterproofed.

Splitrock · 03-05-2011, 07:35 PM

I see, Thanks!

NoMoSOBs · 03-06-2011, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwok

Sorry to beat you to it John, but hey, I had none, and you had one, so now we're even?

It's not been a perfect setup. I finally realized the popped rivets and broken cabinet up front were probably due to a rough ride with the old axles. I spent all day today taking off the old door gaskets and putting new ones on, as well as the front rock guard. It's an aftermarket guard and they did a poor job of it, which I believe is where the water damage from the door came from. I went out there in the rain this past week to check for leaks and had a stream coming in from the front window. They had to take off the original airstream nameplate and move it up a couple inches for the rockguard. I'm probably going to put it back on, with butyl tape and stanless or olympic rivets, but will probably replace the old fiberglass guard with Lexan, and put window tinting on it.

Good, tell me the floor is rotten too and I'll feel much better. Welcome to the adventure.

robwok · 03-06-2011, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoMoSOBs

Good, tell me the floor is rotten too and I'll feel much better. Welcome to the adventure.

It's an airstream. Of course there is floor rot.

It's by the door though, and I think I can take it out in a small square for a patch, and use some woodworking know how instead of AS frame off for a repair. I did peer through the windows today though in the rain, and the one major leak there seems to be gone. It's bone dry there. (Unlesss the insulation has to reach a saturation point before it starts leaking...)

The new door seals are a real bear. The only way I could get the door to close is to tape them in the compressed shape on the hinge side, then close it. I may get them just right and go over the edge with a heat gun to simulate some summer son and get them to compress a little. I just don't want to melt them to the side. I have to think they are watertight now though.

Thanks. It's an adventure all right. I think those guys that film themselves polishing just the side and giving the impression that the top is going to be just as easy ought to be shot.

wasagachris · 03-06-2011, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwok

I think those guys that film themselves polishing just the side and giving the impression that the top is going to be just as easy ought to be shot.

Amen to that brother. The same goes for guys that say they can do a polish in a long weekend.

robwok · 03-06-2011, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwok

It's an airstream. Of course there is floor rot.

I may get them just right and go over the edge with a heat gun to simulate some summer son and get them to compress a little. I just don't want to melt them to the side. I have to think they are watertight now though.

I do know how to spell sun. I have 2 young boys, and it's near impossible to think, or type while being shot at with nerf darts. Thankfully, nerf doesn't dent the aluminum. I may have to ban paintball though. It'd be easy cleanup, but I'd be afraid the AS would look like a silver golf ball.

Colin H · 03-06-2011, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robwok

I do know how to spell sun. I have 2 young boys, and it's near impossible to think, or type while being shot at with nerf darts. Thankfully, nerf doesn't dent the aluminum. I may have to ban paintball though. It'd be easy cleanup, but I'd be afraid the AS would look like a silver golf ball.

Just thank your lucky stars that "lawn darts" were banned........................hmmmm.

Colin

robwok · 03-06-2011, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Colin H

Just thank your lucky stars that "lawn darts" were banned........................hmmmm.

Colin

ah, nothing some Vulkum and Olympic bulb rivets wouldn't fix. Course the pattern would be a little odd.

robwok · 03-28-2011, 06:46 PM

I've decided just to keep adding onto my own thread. It's a little off topic, but allows me to keep everything together, with a timeline - so I guess it's like a blog.

I have posted some other forum links, and I may continue on those, but I'm going to try to post everything here.

The water heater. On the 64, you pretty much have to take out the bathroom cabinets. I was able to move some parts of the cabinet walls, and use a wire saw to cut the ABS vent pipe to get the water heater out. You can see the progress here.

robwok · 03-28-2011, 06:52 PM

The next pics are of the electrical. I had a fuse box, a newer type of univolt, a breaker panel, and a battery meter. Everything has been replaced by an all in one unit. Outside I installed a new Furrion 30A port. My comment on that: The screws are #6, but I made the holes a little larger to take a #8 stainless screw. The #6 just seemed too small to hold everything. I also installed a new water inlet on the back of the AS. Now, I have all modern systems that I don't need to reach under the bumper to get to.

robwok · 03-28-2011, 06:54 PM

My original breaker box was in a small cabinet in the rear bath. I built a small frame and put it up a little higher behind the medicine cabinet. So, to get to it, you have to open the cabinet next to the toilet, and then open the little medicine cabinet door, but it is still easy to get to in a matter of seconds, and there is plenty of ventilation to allow it to breathe.

robwok · 03-28-2011, 06:56 PM

Also, the foil bubble insulation next to the furrion is only temporary until I get the new hot water heater. I've been experimenting a little with the polishing (doesn't everyone?) but it should all tie nicely together when I get the whole trailer polished.

ALANSD · 03-30-2011, 09:40 AM

I found a pretty much original 66 Overlander last summer. Not very clean inside, but all there, paperwork form the original purchase order and more. My antennas were very rusty so they had to go. Anyway- I have the porch light too,it works great. It's flat black color. Is black the right color for it? I will need to repaint it soon.
Gotta love the 60s wood interiors, and the inside gas lamp.

robwok · 03-30-2011, 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ALANSD

I found a pretty much original 66 Overlander last summer. Not very clean inside, but all there, paperwork form the original purchase order and more. My antennas were very rusty so they had to go. Anyway- I have the porch light too,it works great. It's flat black color. Is black the right color for it? I will need to repaint it soon.
Gotta love the 60s wood interiors, and the inside gas lamp.

Yeah, my antennas don't look great. I'll probably keep the CB antenna and hook it up to my HD radio, but the TV antenna is in bad shape. It's split, rusty, and ugly. My understanding is the porch lights with black bases were called jelly jar lights, and I believe black was the right color. I did not get a gas lamp with mine, though that would have been a neat option.