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Old 03-25-2013, 04:31 PM   #61
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Liftoff! WooHoo!

Very good looking shell.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:33 PM   #62
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COOL!!!!
Now you start the re-assembly...Simple, huh?
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:17 AM   #63
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So far, it's been straight forward. Of course, that's only because I have so many examples to follow. Putting it back together may be more difficult!
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Old 03-28-2013, 10:22 AM   #64
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Thank you for sharing the journey; very interesting.
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:12 PM   #65
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Worked on cleaning up the frame today. Also got a look at the repairs my welder has started. A couple outriggers, and new frame rails for the first and last 4 feet. Probably a couple new crossmembers too.

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Old 04-05-2013, 04:53 PM   #66
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Ok, my welder is driving me nuts! I was hoping to por 15 this weekend but no luck.
I got about half of the shell prodexed. Prodex is awesome. Double sided eternabond, hmm. I have no doubt it works but what a pita!!

Sealed all my seams and rivets with it. Then some 3m 77 and I'm a sticky mess!!

Tomorrow I hope to finish prodex, install my 30 amp connection, maybe the water connection and drill out the vent rivets. Wish me luck!!
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:28 PM   #67
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I'm curious, why double stick eternabond? To hold up the Prodex or?

I was contemplating the eternabond roof seal on the lap seams.
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:39 PM   #68
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Yes, seal and hold.
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Old 04-14-2013, 03:50 PM   #69
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Finally got the por on. Next weekend, decking!



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Old 04-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #70
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Lookin' good!
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:37 AM   #71
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This weekend I wired the brakes, cut the floor and cut u channel blanks. Need to run to harbor freight and buy a brake this week. I had planned on getting elevator bolts from fastenal but was less than thrilled with their price. And since I need to order from vts anyway...
I have a couple questions for my " panel pros". I have a "chimney" left over from my furnace that I'm not going to use. Would you leave it or patch it? It's obviously on a curve, would the patch need to be precurved or will it form to the roof?
I also have a 1.5 inch hole where I believe part of the umbilical cord plugged in to the trailer. I need to either patch this or use it to wire the new umbilical cord. Has anyone done this? Thoughts on finding a grommet or other ways to seal around the cord?
Finally, holding tank vent stack. I assume I can get a replacement "grommet" from vts but I have to think it can be improved upon. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan


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Old 04-21-2013, 07:00 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danruehl View Post
... I have a "chimney" left over from my furnace that I'm not going to use. Would you leave it or patch it? It's obviously on a curve, would the patch need to be precurved or will it form to the roof?
I also have a 1.5 inch hole where I believe part of the umbilical cord plugged in to the trailer. I need to either patch this or use it to wire the new umbilical cord. Has anyone done this? Thoughts on finding a grommet or other ways to seal around the cord?
Finally, holding tank vent stack. I assume I can get a replacement "grommet" from vts but I have to think it can be improved upon. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Dan
I'd patch it and if you want the 'vintage' look, add the vent back on top of the patch. .032 will curve it's self as you drill and cleco. For the 1.5" hole, consider buying a Marinco power inlet and wiring a front 110V inlet and using a transfer switch. It will be handy when you use a genset in the back of the truck. Otherwise, rivet a circle patch. I made my ventstack gaskets from some scrap rubber roofing.
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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy https://www.airforums.com/forums/f20...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly https://www.airforums.com/forums/f10...ome-71609.html
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:11 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
I'd patch it and if you want the 'vintage' look, add the vent back on top of the patch. .032 will curve it's self as you drill and cleco. For the 1.5" hole, consider buying a Marinco power inlet and wiring a front 110V inlet and using a transfer switch. It will be handy when you use a genset in the back of the truck. Otherwise, rivet a circle patch. I made my ventstack gaskets from some scrap rubber roofing.
HiHo

Do you have a link for a description and where you got your transfer switch?

Thanks, Dan
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:54 AM   #74
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HiHo

Do you have a link for a description and where you got your transfer switch?

Thanks, Dan
I had a similar one to this in a MH, but this is what I was describing.
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Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie(RIP) -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy https://www.airforums.com/forums/f20...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly https://www.airforums.com/forums/f10...ome-71609.html
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:32 AM   #75
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Dan,

Like Vernon, I used roofing rubber. I have a bunch left over from a porch roof -- pm me your address if you need some.

The chimney makes a good cap for your grey tank vent if you plan to install one. I like flexible hose for the vent and used "SEALAND OdorSafe Plus Sanitation Hose" from Boat Parts, Boat Accessories, Sailing Gear and Boating Apparel from West Marine. Last I looked, VTS' plumbing stack covers weren't anywhere near as cool as that little chimney on the roof.

John
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Old 04-23-2013, 03:43 AM   #76
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Forgot the electrical hookup question... I patched the original inlet with Alclad and installed a new inlet on the curbside near the galley. I didn't think the original inlet was in the right spot for modern campground hookups, requiring too long a cord.

I used the "Marinco Stainless Steel Power Inlet 30A 125V", which isn't cheap but I think I paid about $50 bucks on eBay. With boating season starting, it may be harder to find a good deal right now. I like the way the outer seal on the matching cord can screw on, forming a good, safe watertight seal.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:31 AM   #77
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:36 AM   #78
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Got it back together today. Pretty close to aligned. Shell needs to move aft 1/4 inch. My gray tank is on back order so I can't start attaching yet.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:37 PM   #79
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Finally got my gray tank yesterday. So today I installed the tank, bolted down the last two pieces of subfloor and got all my straight "c" channel bolted down! I can actually move it if I have to. Finished the prodex and worked on the end caps. Got my third L77 core replacement, nos this time & will take it to a locksmith tomorrow. Not real happy with the look of the endcaps. Anybody steer me to a metal or wood endcap replacement thread??
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:10 PM   #80
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Dan,

http://www.sputnikgoes.com just did new endcaps. There isn't a lot of detail, but pics show the concept well. They also post here, but I can't remember their handle at the moment. Maybe they saved the patterns!

Endcaps don't look bad when zolatoned, but would be tough to make look good with regular paint.

I couldn't make mine fit with more than one layer of Prodex underneath.

John
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