It's all mine now!!

[Danruehl]

Finally got warm enough to work. And the axles are ready. And the wheel/tires are ready. And the welder is almost ready.
My goal is to expose enough of the frame for us to evaluate it and make repairs while dealing with the axles. Then bring it back home, drop the pan, sandblast and pot the frame. I really don't want to have to pull the shell but we'll see
Some pics of the process and a couple questions.
All my windows look like this.




My door handle area is bowed in and has an odd crack in the metal but appears to have been built this way.



And the general situation

[65CV]

Dan,

Sorry about the late reply on your questions. I spotted them and meant to get back to you sooner.

Your window glazing actually looks better than mine. I had a chat with Colin about it and he said that the old rubber shrank with time. That's why the corners still look properly mitered, but have pulled away. After 50+ years, the segments can be 2-3 inches shorter! The replacement Window Strip is available. When you work on the windows, you'll probably discover that the Glazing Tape needs replacement too. Prices aren't cheap at VTS, but he's the only one willing to remake the tooling to produce small lots.

Based on the picture, it looks like your door was made with a piece of aluminum that was cut at some time. Is that an overlap of aluminum underneath? If so, I don't know of a better way than reskinning it with Alclad Aluminum sheet .

Be gentle on that door handle. They fail easily right below the lock. My trailer came with a stub on the door handle. TGTwinkie makes a replacement that's advertised in the parts section of the classifieds on this site.

Finally, when doing the floor, be sure you understand the importance of bonding the steel frame, plywood and aluminum channel together. It's a critical structural component. Use of mild steel next to aluminum is just asking for a repeat of the galvanic corrosion problems that came with it. Somewhere in this thread is a great diagram and explanation -- I think by NorCalBambi.

Good luck,

John

[Danruehl]

Thanks John,
I really appreciate it.
While I've got you, I have a 3/8 inch hole drilled through the outer skin on the curb side next to the front window. Any idea what this could be for?
I dont have a front window glass protector,(probably why I dont have front window glass) so maybe it's part of that??
If it's not for a missing part. whats a good way to fill it?
Thanks again,
Dan

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by Danruehl

Thanks John,
I really appreciate it.
While I've got you, I have a 3/8 inch hole drilled through the outer skin on the curb side next to the front window. Any idea what this could be for?
I dont have a front window glass protector,(probably why I dont have front window glass) so maybe it's part of that??
If it's not for a missing part. whats a good way to fill it?
Thanks again,
Dan

Me's guessing that there is a set of 4 rivet holes on the outer skin, around the larger hole.. that where the original antenna rotator was mounted!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1227430

[65CV]

Originally Posted by Danruehl

Thanks John,
I really appreciate it.
While I've got you, I have a 3/8 inch hole drilled through the outer skin on the curb side next to the front window. Any idea what this could be for?
I dont have a front window glass protector,(probably why I dont have front window glass) so maybe it's part of that??
If it's not for a missing part. whats a good way to fill it?
Thanks again,
Dan

Dan,

I'm sure Vernon is right. To seal the 3/8 hole, try a stainless carriage bolt. See Post 148 on this thread. You will need 2 different sized washers -- one size to just fit over the shoulders of the carriage bolt and one size to just barely fit over the threads. That and lots of vulkem should do the trick.

John

John

[Danruehl]

Hmm, not seeing any other holes to support an antenna, but that's less important than how to seal it. May be more creative in sealing it as Ill have it all apart before long. Ill post a pic of it tomorrow. Rented warehouse space in the welders building today. Hoping to pull the shell, repair & paint the frame, replace the floor and put it all back together within 3 months on 3 day weekends. Figure 30 twelve hour days with someone else doing welding and installing axles. Is that reasonable??
Thanks
Dan

[Danruehl]

If the government "really" lays me off, that'll get me another couple days a month. Can I tow this, short distance, low speed, without the inner skins??

[65CV]

Originally Posted by Danruehl

..... Figure 30 twelve hour days with someone else doing welding and installing axles. Is that reasonable??
Thanks
Dan

Depends on the condition of the frame. Your plans for grey tanks, insulation, wiring and bellypan installation will affect timing too.

[65CV]

Originally Posted by Danruehl

If the government "really" lays me off, that'll get me another couple days a month. Can I tow this, short distance, low speed, without the inner skins??

Yes, as long as your key attachment points of shell to frame are solid or patched before you move it. See post 137 of my thread for details.

John

[Danruehl]

Ok, rented some workspace in the building with my welder.
Managed to get the interior skins, insulation, end caps and wheel wells off.
Now for the questions;

Any advice on pressure washing the interior? I still have the belly pan on and half of the floor in, so it would fill up or atleast be a mess. I'm thinking I need to remove the pan and the floor first, but I'm nervous about rolling it around after taking out all those rivets.

In the four corners, I have these L brackets, with 2 elevator bolts. One goes thru the outrigger, the other just thru the sub floor. Any idea what the purpose is?

Speaking of elevator bolts, any advice in removing the ones that go thru the "c" channel?

In my battery box, I found these 8 metal pucks. they look like alluminum but are way too heavy. Any thoughts?

Here's a pic of the previously mentioned hole, although the pic is reversed, its actually on the curb side.

And finally a pic of my new axles.

Dan

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by Danruehl

I have a 3/8 inch hole drilled through the outer skin on the curb side next to the front window. Any idea what this could be for?
I dont have a front window glass protector,(probably why I dont have front window glass) so maybe it's part of that??
If it's not for a missing part. whats a good way to fill it?
Thanks again,
Dan

I can't find it now, but I've seen photos on the forums where people have cut shapes out of aluminum and riveted them on to patch a hole like this. The one I recall was a maple leaf.

[65CV]

Progress!

Pressure washing will not only produce lots of water, but you will loosen lots of gross stuff! I would definitely try to roll it so that the vast majority of water gets outside. When I did mine, the floor was still in place and I angled it so that the water and stuff went out the old black tank hole. I wish I had thought to put some hardware cloth there to catch the big stuff, especially the remnants of fiberglass insulation. Once it's all clean, you will want to be sure that you eliminate corrosion, if present. Based on what I've read here, I sanded the area, acid treated it and coated it with alodine.

I had the bolts in the four corners too. Looks like they were there to stiffen the thicker frame rails at the point of transition from straight skin to the endcaps. I just looked through all the pics that Colin send and it appears that he didn't use them. Colin uses thicker stainless screws and bolts all around, so there is less need to stiffen the one area.

None of my c-channel was reused (I think), so I think it was removed with angle grinders and/or sawzalls. That begs the question -- what's the best way to bend new c-channel? A cheap Harbor Freight Bending Brake. BTW, it was half that price when I bought mine.

Battery box pic is missing.

Not sure what the hole is for, but the carriage bolt trick should work.

Hope that helps.

John

[Danruehl]

Oops,
Here is a pic of the pucks,

I've found a 48" brake on ebay, so thats on the list.

Grant, I've seen those patches too, Think I'll try the carriage bolt first, then maybe a Mitten, not surprised you remember the maple leaf.

John, what does aluminum corrosion look like? Holes and dis simular metal I understand but is there something else I should be looking for?

All, when attaching marker lights or anything else that needs to create a hole in the skin, should I use a gasket? The grey sticky stuff or Vulkem?
And, what is vulkem? I've found several products with that name, what specific product/color do I want to use?

[65CV]

Dan-

Aluminum corrosion is a white powder. If you brush it off, you'll still see the "seeds" of new corrosion as pits in the metal.

Vulkem is traditionally Trempro 636, which is getting hard to find. VTS has Trempro 635. That's what I'd recommend for sealing. Down the road, you'll want to check out leak testing for other areas. Protect that new floor!

Don't recognize the pucks as any Airstream part I've seen. They aren't lead, are they?

John

[Danruehl]

Thanks!
Just vulkem between the skin and the marker lights then?

[65CV]

Originally Posted by Danruehl

Thanks!
Just vulkem between the skin and the marker lights then?

Lots of it, cleaned up with mineral spirits right after installation. MUCH easier to clean up right away.

[Danruehl]

Well, tomorrow is lift the shell day. Pressure washed the interior Friday, spent today drilling rivets. Why oh why was it necessary to rivet the belly pan to the uprights???

[reinergirl]

Congrats! Can't wait to see pictures. There's always hidden rivets, it's like an Airstream mandatory rule or something . I didn't mind the hidden rivets as much as I minded the screws that were UNDER the veneer, those really hard to find

[Danruehl]

[Landshark]

That is a VERY nice-looking shell. Best wishes with the Resto!

Vivian