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Old 05-25-2007, 05:03 AM   #41
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigeasy63

Like I said, I know 110v and 12 v, but put them together and I sometimes lose sight. I'm assuming the univolt and other converters took the place of the step downs?

I think as soon as I secure that ground problem the electricity will be good. But if I hit another snag I know who to call. (or type).
Yes, the Univolt, and later incarnations, took the place of all the little transformers, and dual power lights, and dual electrical wiring. After I installed the Parallax in Goliath, we used the 12v system almost exclusively. FYI, I put it in the cabinet under the kitchen sink, next to the furnace base, and plugged in the 120v plug to the outlet over the range. Disconnecting it for whatever reason is as simple as pulling the plug.
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Old 05-25-2007, 05:21 AM   #42
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Rusty,

Very nice upholstery. I'm with Katkat, throw a dust cover over it. Your unit is starting to look very nice. Lot's of hard work and elbow grease! Can't wait to see it.

Marie
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:25 AM   #43
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1963 26' Overlander
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That's a nice upholstery job! My solution was to throw a big duvet cover over the whole thing! I wish I was talented enough to do something like that!

Very nice upholstery. I'm with Katkat, throw a dust cover over it. Your unit is starting to look very nice. Lot's of hard work and elbow grease! Can't wait to see it.

Thanks gals. Kathy is awesome! Shes is very crafty. She makes her own lye soap....I just go to Walmart and buy it. Thats how we are. Thats how we roll.
She is, however, having trouble with the curtains. She is covering the old ones with new fabric as they are ugly. (Not just ugly, but 1963 decor ugly.) She done one set and it looked great but it took a long time. She is looking for new ideas in the intrest of saving time. I was thinking or some type of rod that allows the curtain to slide open and closed. Any ideas or threads to help? We want to use the original sliding bottons, but later, when we have time to fix them right.
Thanks again for the replies.
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Old 05-28-2007, 09:18 AM   #44
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I don't know if this would help- I posted it to help someone.. it ended up helping me, as I took a break and forgot exactly how I did it... (starts on post #95)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f116...n-26932-7.html


Your project is looking great!!
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:04 PM   #45
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1963 26' Overlander
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Jacking question.

I'm planning to get my new tires tomarrow. I plan to ramp the tires and take them two at a time to be replaced. I am afraid to drive it to the tire place on the current tires. Does anyone have any suggestions or warnings? I have read about jacking and ramping both and the ramping seems easier and saver for me and bigeasy. If I must jack, am I correct to jack on the axle mounting plate?

Also, is it safe to check electric brakes with the hub off?

I hope to have a progress report and new pics soon.
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Old 05-29-2007, 07:21 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigeasy63
I'm planning to get my new tires tomarrow. I plan to ramp the tires and take them two at a time to be replaced. I am afraid to drive it to the tire place on the current tires. Does anyone have any suggestions or warnings? I have read about jacking and ramping both and the ramping seems easier and saver for me and bigeasy. If I must jack, am I correct to jack on the axle mounting plate?

Also, is it safe to check electric brakes with the hub off?

I hope to have a progress report and new pics soon.
Yes, if you want to jack, jackon the mounting plate. I have one of my little inventions being shown in an upcoming issue of Airstream Life that consists of a couple of pieces of angle iron and a hunk of steel pipe, welded together to make a bracket that goes around the mounting plate, and the pipe fits over the top of a bottle jack.
You can check the electric brakes with the hub off by using a cheap compass. Have a friend apply the electric brakes and hold the compass near the magnet, if the needle of the compass swings toward the magnet, it is good.
As for suggestyions, when you take the drums off to check the brakes, repack the wheel bearings, and install new grease seals. If you have a trailer service/repair shop near you, they'll probably charge you less than $5 per seal. You can get the seals from Napa, but they have to buy them from someone else, who buys them from someone else, making them more expensive
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Old 05-30-2007, 04:40 PM   #47
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What a day!

I wound up jacking instead of ramping. I didn't think the old tires would stand the pressure of all that weight on one tire instead of two. Jacking went well. The first two tires came off well and they were replaced. When I started digging in the hub I found the bottom spring of one of the brakes was broken. I went ahead and got the other two tires changed and will deal with the brakes tomarrow. I am thinking about replacing all springs on the brakes. Should I do that or just replace the one thats broken ? I got a feeling I should do all while I have the hubs off. Until I get this done all other things have to wait. I hate having to wait. I expected to get all this done today. Oh ...well....'til tomarrow.
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:23 PM   #48
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And another thing...

By the way. I think the Cali designers were right on when they put the extra room between the wheel well fender and the hubs on their models. Getting the tires off was ok because they were partly flat anyway. Getting them back on was a b!^@#!!! I had to dig down in my gravel driveway about 6-8 inches and then pry the thing in there. Luckily I didn't damage anything. Usually when things don't go my way I pitch a fit and throw things. Kathy says I growl too. Oh...well...it will pay off in the end. It would have been pointless anyway because I was by myself. I'm ok now.
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Old 05-30-2007, 07:27 PM   #49
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A quick tip for next time, if you have a good air compressor where you are working:
Deflate the tires before installing them, then reinflate when they are bolted up. They are not so wide when they are flat...
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:36 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
A quick tip for next time, if you have a good air compressor where you are working:
Deflate the tires before installing them, then reinflate when they are bolted up. They are not so wide when they are flat...
Terry is so delightfully clever! That's why he's on my speed dial!
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Old 06-06-2007, 09:16 PM   #51
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Agreed. If it weren't for him I wouldn't know the diffrence between an actuator and a mascerator....wait....I still don't.

He is a brilliant VAS tech. A real wealth of VAS info. We're lucky to have him. His info would cost lots of dough elsewhere. Good humor to boot.
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:46 AM   #52
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1963 26' Overlander
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First trip was GREAT!!!

Wow what a trip! We had a great time. Bigeasy couldn't have been better. We had a great spot right on the Talullah River. We have even cancelled our condo in Orange Beach, AL in late July so we can camp instead. With the money we save from the condo we can get a new toilet and drop tank so we won't have to use the porta potty. (And I won't have to empty it!)

Things I learned:
1) Newly wirebrushed and painted weight distributing trunnion bars pop and creak and sound like a train wreck.
2) I don't like those campgrounds with the only thing between you and your neighbor is a picnic table and about 5 feet of real estate.
3) An intertube propped against the side of your camper hides a slight gray water leak very well.
4) A 2 gal porta potty tank dont last long with a family of four!
5) Can of Lithium Grease at Wal Mart...$2.83, Rubber glove to rub it in...$.05, Towing the Airstream home with a silent W D system...priceless!

I still have work to do but I can take my time now that the major things are done. Thank You Forums for helping this happen.

1)Here she is. 2)The highlight of the trip....NOT. 3)Da Boyz. 4)The view.






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Old 06-13-2007, 12:53 PM   #53
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Congrats on the maiden voyage!

Sounds like you had a fairly painless first adventure. As a long time tent camper I was amazed at how much I liked having my own bathroom with me. You will be glad you have done the upgrade. Nice pics, did you do a campground review?
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Old 06-13-2007, 07:18 PM   #54
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I tried a review, but apparently the one who designed the forums computer scheme was a lot smarter than me. Any tips?
By the way we went and looked at at the spot on Lake Lanier that we'll be staying....wow...what a beautiful campground. (Old Federal Campground, Corps of Engineers park.) They have lots of space, paved, shade, a grill, a picnic table, a fire pit, a tent pad, and they are all lakefront. The only thing they don't have is a sewer hook up.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:38 PM   #55
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Guess what?

Guess who got a Random Orbital Polisher for Fathers Day?

Give up?

Me!!

I'm looking at the forum for tips. Any tips appreciated. I keep hearing this 50, 60, 100 hour stuff. OMG! I may or may not go for the mirror look. It depends on how things go. It seems like that would blind other drivers in the sunlight. I would like bigeasy to shine though. My progress will be posted. I'll either be singing praises or censored off the forum. We'll see.
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:51 PM   #56
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Congrats! I lost track of how long I have into my polishing, but after the first pass, it is presentable- the more shade= the better it looks (less swirls).

I have decided to take it in stages- when I'm motivated a lot gets done, then I go on a trip, forget it for a while, and then get back to it. I think the initial excitement of seeing the shine gets the most results. I seemed to work the longest & hardest on it right up until it was nearly all shiny (just the first F7 pass+ swirls). I have since been in a holding pattern...
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Old 06-22-2007, 08:18 AM   #57
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1963 26' Overlander
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Polishing

I think I have decided to go with Mothers Aluminum Polish. It is cheaper and I've seen some great results with other airstreams that have been polished with it.

Question: How do I get the best results with a random orbital buffer as opposed the regular spin kind? It seems to stop spinning when you put a little pressure on it. I have tried it on a small spot and it does pretty good, its just kinda slow. I know polishing is not all 'Mr Miagi wax on...wax off', and I know it takes a while, but at this rate it may take a couple of hours to polish this thing.

I know...patience grasshopper.
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Old 06-22-2007, 04:59 PM   #58
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Well...I got the front street side corner today and I must say it looks great. The random orbital really does the job. I can see why there are several steps to a perfect finish. Would anyone say that Mothers is the equivilent to nuvite step one? I was thinking I may start with Mothers and finish up with the nuvite...or...will mothers look better each time until mirrored? Either way I have a long way to go until I worry about step two.
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:30 PM   #59
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A friend let me borrow an orbital buffer. I haven't used it yet. Is there a major diffrence between it and a random orbital? I understand the mechanical diffrence but will it have a diffrent effect on the polish?

Thanks,
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Old 06-23-2007, 01:41 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigeasy63
A friend let me borrow an orbital buffer. I haven't used it yet. Is there a major diffrence between it and a random orbital? I understand the mechanical diffrence but will it have a diffrent effect on the polish?

Thanks,
Usually the first step in polishing would be the orbital variable speed buffer/grinder, and the random orbit would be used on step 2, with a cyclo polisher for step 3.
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