Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-18-2009, 08:41 PM   #501
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Thanks Steve. I'll be longing for your weather when it hits 100 here in April and May.
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-18-2009, 10:03 PM   #502
Rivet Master
 
goransons's Avatar

 
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,485
Images: 10
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via MSN to goransons
Oh I can't wait to get to that... Looks really good. Appears you put a few more bolts than Airstream did, which should help hold that down better. Ours only had 4 across plus the channel. Are you lucky enough to have a solid front floor or do you have further to go?
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
goransons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 06:20 AM   #503
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Scott,

Yes, I added some bolts. I am often told that I over-engineer things-- I am an engineer, so I take these comments as compliments. Adding more bolts seemed like a good thing to do.

The front has a couple of small bad spots just under the front window. I might be able to patch them, or I might need to replace the sheet. The other floor sheets seem solid, but we'll see. I will drop the bellypan to inspect the frame and floor regardless. But, that is next winter's project. This is all the floor/frame work I plan on for this winter.

Your progress is great, I understand the budget thing, so far I am just ignoring any budget and spending anyway. I am however keeping track of every single expenditure down to sandpaper and washers on a comprehensive spreadsheet, and keeping every single receipt. So when I'm done, I will have exact figures. Did I mention that I am an engineer?

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 09:32 AM   #504
Rivet Master
 
goransons's Avatar

 
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,485
Images: 10
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via MSN to goransons
The Belly Pan is still on? ok just kidding. We decided to keep going mostly because I found there to only be a small sliver of each perimeter channel bolts left. Also decided it was nice to clean the belly pan out from above. Looks great I think I'll follow your lead on the bolts and run them every foot or so.

I have plenty of work to keep me busy until payday.
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
goransons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-19-2009, 12:19 PM   #505
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Overlander & Sea's Avatar
 
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Gulfport , Mississippi
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 823
Images: 35
Hey Marcus,

Lookin' good!! Great information! I like that you're adding a gray tank.....one day, I would like to add a gray tank to my '61 Overlander. What size tank did you use? You said that your gray tank hangs below the frame( I see in the pictures). Will you cover the gray tank with the belly pan?

I'm signed up for the Texas Vintage Rally, but not sure if we'll make it, you know, kids, work, all that stuff that gets in the way of the important Airstreamin' life. If we do make it, I'd love to see your Overlander. Good luck.
__________________
Rick--Foley RV Center www.airstreamofmississippi.com
WBCCI #9275 TAC #MS-5 AIR #11800
Overlander & Sea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2009, 02:23 PM   #506
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Scott-- my channel bolts around the perimeter were pretty much gone too. Same thing for the channel screws.

I will tell you this, I have seen a lot of posts from people here at the Forums who are very concerned about transporting their trailers for various service when the shell is only partially attached to the floor and/or frame. I believe whole-heartedly in caution, but my trailer has essentially been unattached at the rear-end for a period of years. Couldn't tell you how long, but there was essentially nothing holding the rear end down other than its own weight. The only damage that resulted was that the rub rail was bent under where the back of the shell fell down onto the main frame rails as the floor rotted out. That's really the only notable damage, and a pair of pliers can correct it pretty quickly.

Rick--

The gray tank is around 30 gallons. If you remove the bellypan in that area, this is actually a modification that could be made with the floor still intact. I'm sure it's much EASIER with the floor out, but it's possible to do with the floor still in. This is the tank I used, model# H664:

RV Holding Tanks - 75 Sizes & Dimensions

Not sure about covering with the bellypan-- if there is a way to do it that still looks good, then I will consider it. The dump valve assemblies for the black and gray tank will be in there somewhere too, so I'll have to figure out how best to access them, while buttoning everything else up as nicely as I can.


Right now I'm planning on coming down to the Texas Vintage on Saturday, but unfortunately the Overlander won't be making the trip with me this trip, it's just not going to be road-worthy yet.

But, I'm looking forward to seeing you and TomW and Gayland and Jim "Whitsend" and others on that Saturday, if you can make it. Hope to see you there!

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2009, 03:21 PM   #507
Rivet Master
 
goransons's Avatar

 
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,485
Images: 10
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via MSN to goransons
Oh heck yeah I agree, that it is amazing how well these hold up with the back all apart. You got that right. We had a minimum of 3 sections to go, and on a 22' thats 60% and we have a soft spot further up to deal with so we're going all the way. I never had to cut a single channel bolt, just a pair of vice grips, and a pull to the side and they snapped. I think in both cases the belly pan really kept things together.
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
goransons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2009, 08:39 AM   #508
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
My bellypan was mostly in tatters as well as the the subfloor, so I think the shell itself from j-channel up over and around to j-channel was providing the lion's share of the strength.

No cutting on the bolts for me either, they just snapped off. The screws were tougher, they had corroded to the point where their slotted heads were useless. I struggled with them for many hours, drilling out a couple (that was arduous and messy), breaking a couple our of the channel by sheer force, but finally I realized that since the floor was gone, I could get to the bottom of the screws with a pair of vice grips and twist them up and out. Most of them came out easily at that point, and the ones that didn't received multiple doses of PB Blaster and they finally broke free as well.

Now I'm in the midst of putting them all back in, which is a much easier chore with a cleaned-up j-channel and a sound sublfoor. I am NOT using slotted screws for this task-- I am replacing with hex-head sheet metal screws and steel washers that are bonded to neoprene, hopefully that will prevent some of the corrosion that occurs from the dissimilar metals.

Lots more to do this weekend, just to collect my thoughts and create a plan of action, here are the things I'm planning:

1) Complete installation of channel bolts and channel screws (this is already very close to being done, but I decided to pick up a few wide fender washers for some of the channel bolts).

2) Complete stripping and clean-up of interior lower panels. There is tons of thick latex paint on the panels right now that I want to come off before final finish work.

3) Complete floor prep for final top-flooring (wood filler and wood harderner where I damaged the sections prying them into place, and to fill a few gaps, and then the self-leveleing compound to flll in the rest)

4) Begin stripping and clean-up of window hardware, more thick latex paint.

5) Begin stripping and clean-up of upper panels, and even more thick latex paint.

That's likely all I will have time to do, if even that. But in looking at my list, I should probably do the messy stripping interior work before I complete the floor prep, so that will change my order of operations a bit.

Anyway, looking forward to a solid weekend of Airstream work, the weather will be decent if a bit chilly by my Texican standards (highs in the 50s and cloudy, small chance of rain). But, no doubt all of the hard labor will warm me up in no time!

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2009, 12:30 PM   #509
Rivet Master
 
goransons's Avatar

 
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,485
Images: 10
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via MSN to goransons
See you're way ahead of us. Crazy work week for me, nothing new done on ours, if I'm lucky I'll get the entry step cleaned up and painted so I can drop the next piece of plywood in and get started on bolts but half my weekend is spoken for without any "trailer time". Are you going down to bare metal on your panels or just down to the old zolatone? What paint stripper are you using? A lot of mine is getting sanded down, especially the upper panels. Lower panels I don't mind taking outside and stripping them. Just lots of rolls of sanding discs and my DA and a weekend probably for end caps and upper panels. oh yeah and a mask too.
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
goransons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2009, 03:09 PM   #510
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
I'm going to bare metal on a lot of it. I'm using the citristrip, which does a pretty good job of cutting through all the layers including the zolatone, but still leaves some areas that need additional treatment. And it all has to be scraped with plastic putty knives, pretty time-consuming.
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2009, 10:25 PM   #511
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Not much to show for this weekend's work, but I got a fair amount done anyway.

I finished off the channel bolts and screws. For the screws, I copied Frank's idea and used # x 3/4" hex heads with #8 washers made of steel bonded to a layer of neoprene. This will hopefully help keep the steel from coming in contact with the aluminum and causing more corrosion.



Put 30 or more through the channel all the way around the back:



And with help from my friend Bald Greg, I also began to strip the interior panels. I used Citristrip, let it sit for a couple of hours, and then scraped with plastic putty knives. My "before" set of pictures didn't come out, but here is a "during" photo:



And an after, including a brief clean-up with mineral spirits, but it needs another round of clean-up:



The bare aluminum is in decent shape after all of these years, but if I were to end up leaving it bare, it would definitely need to be polished. I haven't completely settled on my design direction, so this is where I'll leave it for now. Two more lower panels are almost to this stage, then need a bit more scraping and a final cleaning as well.
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2009, 08:52 PM   #512
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
A Hodge Podge of Activity

I've made a lot of progress, in scattered directions, this past week. I finished stripping the lower interior rear panels and I just had to test my new buffer/compounder that my lovely wife game me for Christmas.



I used VAP panel pro Rob Baker's favorite polish, Diamond Brite Truck Box Polish (note, neither Rob nor I are affiliated in any way with this product, but it does bother Frank so it's always fun to bring up! ).



Then I went ahead and polished up the small rear lower interior panel, and started in on the other lower panel, but that's when my (sole) buffing pad became so caked up that I had to stop.



There are some deep scratches and heavy corrosion that were hidden behind the paint and zolatone, but the majority of surface area for these panels will be behind the vanity, black tank, toilet, and tub, and the parts that WILL be visible look like they're cleaning up well, so I think I am going to go with bare aluminum in several sections of the trailer.

The stripping inside the trailer isn't going quite as well. It's more difficult without being able to put the panels on a flat horizontal surface to work them. Here's the stripper on:



And now after sitting for 45 minutes - 1 hour, and a lot of scraping.



On the other panels, the citristrip cut through the latex house paint and most of the zolatone. But on these panels, it's only cutting through the latex paint. The zolatone will require AT LEAST one more application of stripper.

I will be re-thinking my approach to the interior design of this section.

More hodge podge, while waiting for other stuff, I have managed to fill in all of the counter-sunk holes around the elevator bolt heads.



Next steps for the floor are to take a belt sander to even up the edges, finish removing all of the old vinyl floor tiles, and then apply the self-leveler. After that, it's time to hit it with the adhesive and lay down the tiles.

On to the next hodge podge activity. My good buddy Steve aka TheByamCaravanner had kindly offered to make an aluminum adapter plate for my black tank, so that I can use the new Valterra gate valve and new-style hose attachments, rather than the old Thetford that was standard on Airstreams of this vintage, but for which parts are no longer available. He made a plate for our other buddy Frank (you can see it here), and he has been asking me for measurements for several months now.

So finally, I had some time and I pulled the black tank out of the garage. I was still not sure what exactly Steve was talking about with the need for conversion to the new Valterra gate valve, and now I know why.

You see, I already have a Valterra gate valve.



Now at first, I thought, cool, I'm done with this project. But in the back of my mind, I knew something was wrong. In the back of my mind, I knew something was wrong the last time I took the Airstream out camping. Because the last time I took it camping, my black tank was leaking. I was thinking it was the valve, and with some luck, it would just need some cleaning.

But when I took it apart, I realized that my Valterra valve wasn't installed in any way that might fit the original casting for the Thetford. Instead, the person who made this alteration drilled 4 holes though the bottom of the tank, and installed long threaded machine screws with wide washers and big rubber gaskets that I suppose were meant to stop leaks from coming around and through them. But, they didn't.



And then I discovered why the modification was made this way. A couple of the old threaded rods that go into the original casting are rusted and broken off. So even if the PO who made this modification might have wanted to use a slick conversion plate like the one Steve made, he couldn't.



So now I have two problems. First, I have the 4 holes that go straight through my fiberglass tank. Hopefully, these can be repaired with the usual fiberglass repair techniques. But I also need to get those old rusted threaded rods out of the original casting. So far, they won't turn. I've hit them with PB Blaster and I'll try again later.

Okay, here endeth the Hodge Podge Post.
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2009, 09:07 PM   #513
Rivet Master
 
goransons's Avatar

 
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,485
Images: 10
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via MSN to goransons
Hey some good progress, kickin my butt!! My PO's handyman cut a 8" diameter hole in the bottom of the tank to remove the valve, count yourself lucky! Inland has glass in modern thetford fittings. We'll be repairing our tank and installing one of those, less than 20 bucks I think.
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
goransons is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 06:18 AM   #514
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Yes, an 8" hole would be much worse!

I should be able to repair the fiberglass. Then it's just a matter of backing those rusted, broken threaded rods out. I'm going to hit 'em with PB Blaster again on the way out the door this morning, and then this evening see if I can back them out with the vice grips. Then Steve will send me the adapter plate and I'll be good to go.

Just one of the many reasons why vintage Airstream renovation always takes 3x longer (and costs 3x more) than you planned.
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 06:19 AM   #515
Rivet Master
 
danalee's Avatar
 
1978 29' Ambassador
Walnut Cove , North Carolina
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 519
Images: 30
Good job!!
__________________
Dannie
The Silver Queen
danalee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 09:22 AM   #516
Community Organizer
 
Guido's Avatar
 
2005 22' Safari
South Chicago , Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 98
Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
Hmm, that looks like one thing I didn't post how I fixed.
I went to my friendly Camping World, and got a 2" Valterra blade type sliding dump valve, which I installed by carefully marking the holes from the new valve on the underside of the black tank, being careful to line up the main drainage hole. I then used stainless steel machine screws with stainless washers, and rubber washers under them to keep it from leaking at those four points. I then installed a Tee connector for the grey water to run into, with a 2" to 3" 90 degree PVC elbow, which went into a piece of 3" PVC, terminating just inboard of the edge of the trailer. I then installed two stainless steel machine screws (I think they were #12's) to hold the termination cap in place. This so far has been working well for us, it has been done for about 3 months now, and we have been out with it several times, with no leaks.
The next time I bring Goliath back to the house, I will crawl under it and snap a photo for you.
I think we found the culprit for your black tank valve.
__________________
Fr. Guido


"We have just religion enough to make us hate, but not enough to make us love one another." Jonathan Swift
Guido is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2009, 10:09 AM   #517
Rivet Master
 
robandzoe's Avatar
 
1958 30' Sovereign of the Road
Plymouth , New York
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,776
Images: 19
Send a message via Skype™ to robandzoe
It did leak - ewe!

Looks like Overlander63's fix only lasted so long... and now poor Marcus has to do two things - 1) fix the tank, and 2) fill the tank so that it will sit full so that he can get all the hardened waste that was left to harden after it leaked all the liquids off... - Marcus - you should call that guy on "Dirty Jobs" to come help you.... at least it won't ruin your new floor knowing it'll go back in fixed! Good luck - may the force be with you.
__________________
Rob, Zoe', Stanton, Bryce, Braedon and Finn Baker
Do you Listen to the www.theVAP.com
Plymouth, NY 13832
https://bakersacresofchenango.blogspot.com/
Courtesy parking
Flag Pole Holders - https://robsflagpoleholders.blogspot.com/

robandzoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2009, 12:09 PM   #518
Rivet Master
 
byamcaravanner's Avatar
 
1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha , Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,180
Marcus,

Do you have access to a pressure washer? ...you may be able to blast off that ugly residual that Rob refers to while you have the fittings off and the tank out.

You'll want those "extra" holes to be clean for when you do the glass repair.
__________________
Steve & the crew
'70 Ambassador International Twin
'63 19' Globetrotter TAC WI-1
https://byamcaravanner.blogspot.com/
byamcaravanner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2009, 07:49 PM   #519
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Steve, yes, I do have a pressure washer, and plan to use it. In fact, the black tank is my next project, because it's time to start putting the interior back together. And that's because...

...the top-floor is finally in!
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2009, 08:01 PM   #520
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
Two-week update

Although it has been a couple weeks since I updated the thread, I've gotten plenty of work done.

First steps, last weekend, were to continue doing prep-work on the subfloor. I still had some old stick-down vinyl tiles to remove, and some patching/leveling. My new plywood is 3/4", but the old plywood was only 5/8", so there was about a 1/8" drop. However, most of the old VAT tiles were still in place and stuck firmly to the subfloor, as they have been for the past 46 years. Since VCT is approved for laying directly over the old VAT using the proper adhesive, I decided to just leave it in place, so the old flooring is at the proper level already. Then I just filled in the gaps and chips with floor patch/leveler, and once it dries I just need to sand it down smooth and even, and then I'm ready to lay down the new VCT.

Here are a couple of pictures:





I feel like the project is really dragging lately. Some of it is due to the fact that I'm doing a lot of unseen work, work that doesn't translate into pictures of completion of major subprojects. But, some of it is due to the fact that my project is really dragging lately.

But this weekend I was able to get quite a bit done. I know it seems like I've been doing floor prep forever, and that's mostly because, well, I have. I want to do this right, and only once, so I'm being very careful about how I prep the floor.


After doing some research on the forums, and talking to some floor installation professionals here in Austin, on Saturday I decided to skim-coat with Ardex before laying down the VCT.




Normally this stuff dries in about 20 minutes, but it's only 50 degrees here today, so it took much longer. I finally decided toget in there with my heat gun to help the process along.



It's tough to see in the photo above because the flash over-exposed, but there are some dark patches, those are the bits that still hadn't dried. But, finally it dried enough for me to sand down any remaining high spots, vacuum and clean with tack cloth yet another time, and then I laid out a row of the tiles for measuring, and started putting down the adhesive.



Today (Sunday) was much warmer, up into the 70s at my house. Consequently, the adhesive cured much quicker, and I was able to get a lot more done.

The field tiles went in easily, and then it was time to cut the edge tiles.



The process is pretty simple. The tiles are cut easily when hot, so I measure and mark them, then hit them for a few seconds with a heat gun, then cut with either tin snips or a sharp utility knife. I've read that some people just leave the tiles in the oven (on very low heat) to warm them upenough to cut them, and I think that would work well, but I only had a few to do, and they'd also be difficult to handle if they were hot all the way through.

Anyway, once, I measured the wrong way. The measurements have to be transferred to the bottom of the tile, so it came out as a mirror image. The way to correct this is to place the wrong tile back-to-back with a fresh uncut tile, and trace the outline. Then cut the new tile, and voila, problem solved.



And after several hours of work, you end up with a completed floor.





And now I'm exhausted and it's time for bed!

-Marcus
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1963, 1963 overlander


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1966 Overlander International Double Tamara 1965 - 1969 Overlander 30 03-28-2006 02:55 PM
Thinking of Buying '72 Overlander Joe C 1970 - 1973 Overlander 16 07-20-2005 06:01 AM
2-door Overlander InsideOut 1960 - 1964 Overlander 0 08-30-2002 08:14 AM
Charging AC on 71 overlander smily Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 7 07-25-2002 05:33 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.