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Steve Bryant · 07-09-2012, 08:10 AM

Vernon,
Again, I want to compliment you for your imagination, cabinet making and general fabrication skills. You inspire me and many others to move ahead with our projects and make them turn out in a more professional manner.

Instead of using the F channel, would you want to run a dado groove along the edge of the style/vertical member and inset the plywood wall into the dado? It wouldn't be flush but it would eliminate the F channel. If you are going for a flush appearance with the plywood to the style, I have another Idea about that, but I'll have to draw a simple diagram (which I'll be glad to do) and post that scanned image.

Lookin' good in the neighborhood, sir!!!

HiHoAgRV · 07-09-2012, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Bryant

Vernon,
Again, I want to compliment you for your imagination, cabinet making and general fabrication skills. You inspire me and many others to move ahead with our projects and make them turn out in a more professional manner.

Instead of using the F channel, would you want to run a dado groove along the edge of the style/vertical member and inset the plywood wall into the dado? It wouldn't be flush but it would eliminate the F channel. If you are going for a flush appearance with the plywood to the style, I have another Idea about that, but I'll have to draw a simple diagram (which I'll be glad to do) and post that scanned image.

Lookin' good in the neighborhood, sir!!!

I keep wondering if ya'll on the right thread when I read the positive feedback... but I do appreciate it!

I'm not set on the F channel and have thought about a dado, both are second solutions to my prefered method that will keep the edges flush. The level of accuracy and detail required for a flush plywood edge my well be beyond my skill and equipment. On the bed frame I ovelayed the joint with a strip of very thin cherry, essentially a 3/4" wide x .020 veneer.

I'm more than open to suggestions!

Aerowood · 07-09-2012, 03:54 PM

Instead of an F have you though about a T and just route a groove in the wall to except the Tee. I am planning on doing this on my GT

HiHoAgRV · 07-09-2012, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aerowood

Instead of an F have you though about a T and just route a groove in the wall to except the Tee. I am planning on doing this on my GT

Thanks Kip!
My novice woodworking mind is completely hitting up a TILT error trying to grasp this. Any chance you have time for some clarification? I really wood appreciate it...

I tend to think like a metal machinist so some of the wood working techniques are uncharted territory...

How about a photo of the wood color? This is after a coat of epoxy on the area where I'm most concerned about water intrusion. I also coated some of the structure like the bottoms of the legs and near where the faucet mounts. I'm really likin the result. Next I sand the epoxy with 120/220 grit and the entire thing get varnished. Based on some stick built kayaks I have done, this should fit the bill!

Oh, how about the birds eye cherry!!!

HiHoAgRV · 07-15-2012, 01:57 PM

Makin' saw dust.

I got the bath cabinet sealed and dry fit. (The old top is for test fitting only...)
Now it's time for doors...
Start with a big cherry rough cut plank..
chop, rip, bandsaw, plane and the result is a small pile of boards and a huge pile of sawdust.

Becky B. · 07-15-2012, 08:43 PM

For a "novice" woodworker, you sure have a nice collection of power tools! Looking great!

Max Well · 07-16-2012, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

For a "novice" woodworker, you sure have a nice collection of power tools! Looking great!

AND the skills to use them so well! You do fantastic work!

HiHoAgRV · 07-16-2012, 09:40 AM

Doors...
Glued, sliced, squared, sanded and the first coat of Poly is on.

Geez that's alot of work for 4 little doors.

Steve Bryant · 07-16-2012, 03:30 PM

Vernon,
Here's my idea on a fairly simple way to tie the 1/4" plywood to the thicker frame. I made a mock-up with a piece of scrap wood and 1/4" tempered Masonite so that I could explain it in pictures.

Finished cross section. Would be glued and clamped while setting up.

First - Make saw kerf in frame to desired depth (1/2" used in example).

Second - (not shown because I forgot to take a separate picture) Cut off side of kerf by 1/4" (or desired amount).

Third - Make rabbit on plywood panel to fit flush (tongue in groove style) with outward facing side.

Fourth - Assemble as shown and described in first shot.

HiHoAgRV · 07-16-2012, 06:33 PM

Great Documentation Steve!!!

So, I'll give it a try...
I need a 20 x 20 panel for the bath cabinet to go on the side of the toilet...

On a side bar, I'm only able to get :15 minutes of work at a time, Mrs HiHo went in for some minor surgery, one night stay, last Wednesday. Things didn't go as well as it could have, a :45 minute proceedure took 4 hours to fix a, um, complication. It ended up as a 3 night stay followed by a minimum of a week off work and pretty much out of commission.

I get to sneak out in the garage, do some quick stuff then come back in and help her out. I think she is tired of me draggin in chunks of cherry and sayin' "Honey, look at this!"

reinergirl · 07-16-2012, 06:53 PM

Oh no! At least you're getting stuff done! And it all looks great for a non-woodworker LOL

I know woodworkers who should take lessons from you! Beautiful wood, I love cherry.

Best wishes for a speedy recovery for Mrs HiHo.

PS Steve, pretty slick and nice solution!

Steve Bryant · 07-16-2012, 07:43 PM

Vernon,
You might want to make the rabbit on the plywood using a router bit. That way, you could keep the panel flat on a surface and route the rabbit in a manner that is no so unwieldy if the plywood is cupped or warped slightly. Also, I wanted to mention that the tongue of the panel does not seat fully into the the frame and that is intentional. It's about 1/16" shy of being fully seated in the groove so that the glue will have some where to go assuming that there will be excess. This is also an allowance for less than perfect measurments.

There are many ways to skin a cat. However, given a choice, most cats prefer to have their skin intact!

I hope that Mrs. HiHo (AKA Sarah) is making a good recovery! Also, as I recall, your son had knee surgery while you were doing floor rot replacement on your '91 AS. How is your son doing from his surgery (2010 I think).

Vernon and Shelly,
Thanks for the kind words!

Regards,

Steve

HiHoAgRV · 07-17-2012, 06:19 PM

The complete panel. After this one I can see some tricks if I ever see the need to build a 4 sided panel again. This one has a couple of imperfect spots but they will not be visible, the thing goes beside the toilet...if anyone ever has their head down there, I'm betting they will NOT be in a condition to judge the quality...

Steve Bryant · 07-17-2012, 08:12 PM

Vernon,
It looks mighty good to me sir!

Steve

HiHoAgRV · 07-20-2012, 06:59 PM

My fresh tank is a take-out and needed a good cleaning...

I couldn't find a local supplier for port-holes so I was planning on a Big-Ole-rubber plug but saw a pair of these clear ports on ebay and just couldn't say no...

HiHoAgRV · 07-21-2012, 11:52 AM

Bath cabinet doors are installed. The handles are original to the trailer.

Don't pay attention to the top, it's going to be replaced and include a glass bowl sink.

Oh, and the bath flooring is not installed either...

HiHoAgRV · 07-22-2012, 05:08 PM

Since we are changing from twins to a double bed, some other floor plan adjustments are in order. The most noticeable will be the dual closets that face each other, they are just forward of the rear bath. With the walk thru offset toward the curb, I decided to angle the faces of the closets in order to open the space and also a better flow from the bedroom to the bath. In conjunction with the round corners this has turned out to be quite time consuming.

The corners and their rounded edge have taken almost 2 days to build a set

but I like the effect. The cherry is pretty hard so there was no-way my router could cut a radius without burning the wood so the table saw cut some bevels and the rest was sanded, mostly by hand.

Steve Bryant · 07-23-2012, 09:09 AM

Vernon, I continue to b amazed at the rate of progress that you're making and the quality of your workmanship. Everything is really looking good!

What are you going to do for insulation in the walls?

Steve

Overlander & Sea · 07-25-2012, 04:11 PM

WOW! WOW! WOW! Not only great detail in the work, but great detail in the documentation!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Great Documentation Steve!!!

So, I'll give it a try...
I need a 20 x 20 panel for the bath cabinet to go on the side of the toilet...

On a side bar, I'm only able to get :15 minutes of work at a time, Mrs HiHo went in for some minor surgery, one night stay, last Wednesday. Things didn't go as well as it could have, a :45 minute proceedure took 4 hours to fix a, um, complication. It ended up as a 3 night stay followed by a minimum of a week off work and pretty much out of commission.

I get to sneak out in the garage, do some quick stuff then come back in and help her out. I think she is tired of me draggin in chunks of cherry and sayin' "Honey, look at this!"

Sorry to hear about your wife's medical problems, I hope Mrs. HiHo is doing better.

soldiermedic · 07-25-2012, 04:22 PM

Oh man...I LOVE shiny aluminum walls. I really do. Your walls look amazing.

We went ahead and decided to do zolatone due to cost consideration in our 63 Overlander.

Steve