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HiHoAgRV · 10-10-2011, 06:30 PM

I had today off of work, didn't feel like crawling around on the ground messin with plumbing so I tackled the AC hole...there was AT LEAST 5 lbs of goo applied around the AC in a attempt to seal it. The putty was easy...heat gun and paint scraper...the glued on rubber gasket finally surrendered to the same...silicone held out the longest...

I must have spent a full hour wedged up thru the hole, scraping while trying to stay away from the heat gun, usually 3" from my stomach

I have a left over vent from my '91...it may end up in the hole, if I can come up with a good plan to fit a radiused vent into a square hole...

HiHoAgRV · 10-22-2011, 05:00 PM

No camping this weekend so I got to work on Dolly today.

I did a dry fit of the black tank and tested for leaks...so far, so good.

Installed the new front overhead lights...

Built a cover for the power inlet. I used a std NEMA 30A twist set...it's the same connection as Marinco but doesn't have the locking ring or the super high price. A cover hides it when I'm not plugged in.

Dolly went for a lap around the block today, 1st time out of the yard in 11 months.

Ya think I need axles?

MS03 · 10-25-2011, 10:51 AM

Looks like it is coming out good.

HiHoAgRV · 10-31-2011, 05:22 PM

There is a down-side to having a pair of 'streams...camping in one means no work on the other...and this is prime camping time in Mississippi...thus the lack of progress on Dolly

Now I have a question that perhaps my 'streaming pals from the cooler, northern climate may have some expertise...

I have fooled around and missed the hot weather that is needed to make CitriStripper function...how am I gonna get the layer of latex off of my front endcap? Sanding is not working very well...

Lothlorian · 10-31-2011, 05:39 PM

I was looking at your dry fit for the dump valve. I am very interested how you did the whole process. I have not got to that area yet. I want to get the inside completely finished then I will pull the trailer to the drive way and do the dumpvalve. I have the old brass one and it is not working. I have not dropped the belly pan and I won't know until I do. I will probably be getting some e-mails from me.

Brian

Lothlorian · 10-31-2011, 05:42 PM

I just saw in your pics how you did it. Brilliant!!!!!

Brian

Lothlorian · 10-31-2011, 06:01 PM

HiHO:

I got some stabilizer jacks from a 1973 airstream that I was thinking of putting on my 1960. Do I need to modify the frame for them?

Brian

HiHoAgRV · 10-31-2011, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lothlorian

HiHO:

I got some stabilizer jacks from a 1973 airstream that I was thinking of putting on my 1960. Do I need to modify the frame for them?

Brian

Hey Brian,

If yours are like mine (and like the ones I had on my '77) the rear ones mount just like any other 'stream. The fronts are a bit different since the frame rails angle in on these vintage coaches. Look at my posts starting about here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...ml#post1004655

I ran the forward most of the 3 bolts into an outrigger and have the jack at a very slight angle so the center bolt hits the cross member. The rear most bolt does go into the main frame rail.

It was either this method or the front jacks are almost back to the steps where the frame rails finally become parallel.

HiHoAgRV · 11-01-2011, 07:06 AM

Here's a quick sketch of how I mounted the front stabilizers...obviously not-to-scale because the angle is exagerated. I made sure the outrigger was good and solid even though the main beam of the stabilizer supports the weight on the frame.

HiHoAgRV · 11-01-2011, 08:10 PM

Mrs. HiHo joined me tonight for a couple off hours of taping Prodex (yup, I'm still taping edges of the 1st layer...). I would post a photo of the tape progress but it looks exactly the same...

We made it forward to the door...some of the bows have loose rivets so that will need to be fixed before the final section of taping...

I dry fitted the battery box, curb side just aft of the wheel well, 2 x 6V golfcart batteries, vented to the outside, lid clamped onto the box, should do Dolly just fine!

I still need to find a way of strippin' the front cap in this cold weather...

Becky B. · 11-01-2011, 08:31 PM

Have you tried Bix or Kleen Strip, or do you think that might eat up the underlayer?

Lothlorian · 11-02-2011, 05:53 AM

HiHO:

Thanks for the sketch. I am going to have to get under and see if I can do this by feel. I don't think I want to drop the belly pan up front.

My hat is off to you with all the work you are doing. Your trailer is looking really nice.

Brian

HiHoAgRV · 11-02-2011, 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lothlorian

HiHO:
... I am going to have to get under and see if I can do this by feel. ...
Brian

A couple of Magnets and a chalk line will help.

1st, snap a chalk line that shows where the A frame continues inside the pan. A magnet can be used to locate it thru the aluminum plus it's a straight shot from the coupler. Use the same trick for the crossmembers and outriggers. I have had 100% success in hitting steel by sliding the magnet side-to-side and 'feeling' for the edges then centering a drill between them. If ya do miss...pop a rivet into the hole...

One word of caution, outriggers and cross members may not be welded in straight so don't assume you can find one point and the steel is forward/backward/left/right!

HiHoAgRV · 11-02-2011, 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

Have you tried Bix or Kleen Strip, or do you think that might eat up the underlayer?

I think I have some BIX. Sunday is supposed to be 74 degrees...last chance to dance I guess.

Keep your fingers crossed!

Lothlorian · 11-03-2011, 06:10 AM

HiHO:

You the Man!!!! Again what a brilliant suggestion. OH yeah! I am doing it

Brian

Lothlorian · 11-03-2011, 06:44 AM

HiHo

would you suggest I use a drill and tap a small hoe in the stringer and then follow up with a bit bigger self tapping screw? Would a toggle bolt work do you think?
Brian

HiHoAgRV · 11-03-2011, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lothlorian

HiHo

would you suggest I use a drill and tap a small hoe in the stringer and then follow up with a bit bigger self tapping screw? Would a toggle bolt work do you think?
Brian

I ended up drill/tappin' all of the holes if I remember correctly. I KNOW the main frame was too thick for the self tapping bolts that I tried.

For those folks who have not seen an early '60's frame, mine is made from true "C" steel, not folded flat stock, so self tapping screws have a really hard time.

HiHoAgRV · 11-04-2011, 06:31 PM

Insulation taping is DONE!

I had to re-rivet some of the forward roof bows this afternoon before I could complete the insulation taping...pop off the front skylight, stand up thru the hole and rivet away!

FedEx delivered today...props for the interior...

On EDIT...I absolutely must get the last endcap stripped this weekend...70 degrees forcast.

HiHoAgRV · 11-05-2011, 04:29 PM

Todays weather was warm enough to get the forward interior endcap stripped. I started with Ready Strip and it was workin like a champ...until I ran out...The Citri Strip managed to get the last corner. I still have some sanding left but it's very close to being ready to reinstall.

Between coats of stripper, I repaired the big-o-ugly hole where the heater was. The patch jab was BAD so I started over. No heater is going to be installed so I faked the panel to look like a heater. The city water inlet will go just forward for the fake suburban inlet/exhaust.

I also dismounted one of the old tires, cleaned and painted the rim. Only 3 more to go!

reinergirl · 11-05-2011, 04:46 PM

What did you paint the rim with? I thought they had to be powdercoated? Looking good! And where did you get your hubcaps? I desperately want true Moons for my Moonraker (I have the wheels from VTS) and the moons they have don't fit. They have conical ones that do fit but remind me too much of Madonnas pointed bras (back in the day).