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Becky B. · 09-11-2011, 09:06 PM

That's a major task accomplished! The worst part of all the buck riveting is trying to rope someone into helping you! I'm with you on the Vulkem....a messy, necessary evil!

HiHoAgRV · 09-12-2011, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

That's a major task accomplished! The worst part of all the buck riveting is trying to rope someone into helping you! I'm with you on the Vulkem....a messy, necessary evil!

Mrs. HiHo is getting pretty good at bucking rivets...she never complains...or I just can't hear her over the rivet gun!

The final step that holds the three main pieces together (shell, floor and frame) is done now. Vulcum, washers and self tapping screws, all the way around the perimeter into the C channel and the floor. The epoxy floor is actually harder than the aluminum.

HiHoAgRV · 09-17-2011, 06:14 PM

Goofin around today my Dad and I and decided to give the ole Bowen water heater a check out...2 lbs of dirt dauber nest later it has passed the pressure test, fires up fine and is now re-installed.

The latex strippin continues...rear endcap is complete so Mrs HiHo started on the 15 layers that are slathered on the inside of the door...

I stripped and polished where the emblems re-attach...Oh No, we have started down the slipper slope of 'shiney'

HiHoAgRV · 09-18-2011, 02:18 PM

Gee, that was easy!

Mrs. HiHo stripped the last bit of the rear enadcap so today I sanded the surface and wrapped the exterior in Prodex...

Dreading the install from the horror stories here on the Forum, Mrs HiHo and I stuck the cap into Dolly and propped it up with a couple of 73" long sticks.

1 cleco above the center of the window, 1 in the center of the rib...2 minutes later all of the holes line up!

HiHoAgRV · 09-20-2011, 06:57 PM

The 1st layer of Prodex is cut and glued, the seams rear of the wheel wells have been taped. This is gonna take a while! After all of the seam taping is done I will install a second layer flush with the inner skin.

Once again, visible progress comes to a screeching halt...

reinergirl · 09-20-2011, 07:08 PM

Looking good! I can't believe the end cap went in that easy , you lucky dogs!!

I was worried about using stripper on my end cap but I guess that it's okay? I have about 5 colors of paint on mine and that's about 10 layers of paint

. I need to buy stock in Citristrip.....

Skatiero · 09-20-2011, 07:16 PM

Wow! Amazing progress!!!

HiHoAgRV · 09-20-2011, 08:13 PM

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback...sometimes the only motivation on a given day is to make some progress just so I can post it! Feedback is icing on the cake.

Quote:

Originally Posted by reinergirl

... I was worried about using stripper on my end cap but I guess that it's okay? I have about 5 colors of paint on mine and that's about 10 layers of paint

. I need to buy stock in Citristrip.....

Yup, we need a 'group buy' on CitriStrip...1/2 a gallon so far and I still have to do the front cap and the ENTIRE EXTERIOR!

I was a bit cautious about the endcap/stripper...no idea what type of resin they used in 1963 so I watched it closely and rinsed with lots of water each time I stopped. Latex paint is horrible to strip but it slowly surrenders to the Magic Orange Elixor...

3Ms75Argosy · 09-21-2011, 07:54 AM

You're on the homestretch now!

You made that endcap look easy!
Marc

HiHoAgRV · 09-24-2011, 05:00 PM

I had to stop work on Dolly and figure out where the pool was leaking...under the slab...

If you ever hear someone say "I really want a pool..." the first response should be to dump some shock on their head, wack them with a stinky leaf net and send them a bill for 2x the monthy fee for a health club membership!

I did sneek out and get some stuff done today. Polished where the tail lights and new bullet lamps attach...Dolly Has Tail Lights!

(The vanity plate is off my MG Midget but seemed approprate for this photo...

)

HiHoAgRV · 09-25-2011, 12:19 PM

Odds and Ends

Today is little stuff...The rear Zipdee arm brackets were mounted UGLY...some scrap plastic fixed that issue.

A new break away switch is installed...

During this time the epoxy is drying in the new hole thru the floor for the umbillical cord...

HiHoAgRV · 09-27-2011, 09:25 AM

I've been thinking about the 2nd layer of Prodex...

How about running it between the inner skin and the ribs to reduce thermal conduction?

I built a test sample and it worked pretty darn good. Since all of the interior skins will be new, I dont have to worry about lining up the old rivet holes

The upside...less thermal loss, easy install of the Prodex
Downside...less mechanical strength

Me Be Thinkin'...

VIKING · 09-27-2011, 12:55 PM

Looks okay but I would compress the foam more to lessen the loss of strength in the connection. It will still give you what you are after but with less panel-shifting and rivet-shearing. The Prodex install will be infinitely easier. If I'd used new interior panels I might have tried this.
Best to you,
Rich the Viking

HiHoAgRV · 09-27-2011, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VIKING

Looks okay but I would compress the foam more to lessen the loss of strength in the connection. It will still give you what you are after but with less panel-shifting and rivet-shearing. The Prodex install will be infinitely easier. If I'd used new interior panels I might have tried this.
Best to you,
Rich the Viking

Thanks for the thought fodder...
I made the sample specifically AVOIDING this just to see what the outcome was...without riggin a test setup, it looks like the pop rivets compress the foam to 5-15 PSI. My sample has 4 in^2 and I can barely compress the joint further

! I'm not 100%...(98%+)...lets see how this goes....

???????

VIKING · 09-27-2011, 10:34 PM

My experience with the rivets inside was that a lot of them would get pulled up tight to the ribs just from the rivet pulling them together as it was drawn through the sleeve. It might be harder to maintain the spaceing that you were able to on your sample, but what first came to mind when I saw your sample was that anything that pushed up against the interior wall panel could possibly push the panel in and allow the rivet head to project out from the surface. Likewise with installing interior furnishings and such. Just a bad thought that crossed my mind, I really like your idea a lot.

Rich the Viking

HiHoAgRV · 10-01-2011, 12:26 PM

Another problem solved...

How to attach the dump valve to the holding tank...

Lowe's had some sort of goofy toilet flange with no hole.

Drill 4 new holes, square off the edges, dry fit and bolt to the tank

All that is left is to cut a 3" hole in the center and use lots of sealant when the final assembly is done.

HiHoAgRV · 10-01-2011, 05:49 PM

I went ahead and installed the old front axle incase I need to move Dolly...

The next thing for the interior is to layout the gray/black water system so in goes the bath skins, tub, black tank and cabinet for a dry fit. I know the bare aluminum is not something I could live with but it does look sharp in the bath!

It actually looks like progress...

Becky B. · 10-01-2011, 09:04 PM

Looks like LOTS of progress! You go boy!

HiHoAgRV · 10-02-2011, 04:17 PM

A small amount of progress today...Dump valve assembly is dry fitted...

This step let me plan out the various vents and drain line routings.

Overlander & Sea · 10-10-2011, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Another problem solved...

How to attach the dump valve to the holding tank...

Lowe's had some sort of goofy toilet flange with no hole.

Drill 4 new holes, square off the edges, dry fit and bolt to the tank

All that is left is to cut a 3" hole in the center and use lots of sealant when the final assembly is done.

What a great inexpensive way to solve that problem!