|
|
10-16-2005, 09:24 PM
|
#381
|
2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 70
|
Uwe,
All I can say is Awesome!!!
Steve
|
|
|
10-16-2005, 10:22 PM
|
#382
|
418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by squrlgurl
Uwe,
Where did you purchase your recessed lighting? I saw them in a 2005 AS and love the look.
-Tracey
|
www.swego.com, and Ikea.
|
|
|
10-17-2005, 07:23 AM
|
#383
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
lights
i've been looking at this place. it's more expensive than what uwe sent. nice selection, though.
http://www.yachtlights.com
jp
__________________
8576
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
10-17-2005, 10:20 AM
|
#384
|
Rivet Master
1977 27' Overlander
1954 25' Cruiser
1990 34.5' Airstream 345
VC Highlands
, Nevada
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,151
|
Uwe,
I just looked at this thread after not following up for a long time and I have to say that I love the counters! What a great idea. We were looking at having a shop make counters but this looks like it might be so much better. Get a scratch - sand it out! Beautiful!!
|
|
|
10-17-2005, 01:16 PM
|
#385
|
418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buttercup
Uwe,
I just looked at this thread after not following up for a long time and I have to say that I love the counters! What a great idea. We were looking at having a shop make counters but this looks like it might be so much better. Get a scratch - sand it out! Beautiful!!
|
My thoughts, exactly. I used Salad bowl sealer oil to finish the countertops. The more coats, the shinier it gets. It's the only oil that is supposedly food safe when dry.
|
|
|
10-26-2005, 09:18 PM
|
#386
|
Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
|
Just checking in...LOOKS AWESOME! Can't wait to see it in person someday, hopefully soon!
Shari
|
|
|
10-26-2005, 11:47 PM
|
#387
|
418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Thanks, Shari.
We still have quite a bit of detail work ahead of us, but overall it's coming along nicely. It actually looks much better in person than in the pictures.
I amlooking forward to some camping trips in Dec/Jan, hopefully.
|
|
|
10-27-2005, 08:41 AM
|
#388
|
Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Longmont
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 951
|
outstanding!
hi Uwe- you are doing an outstanding restoration/re-model, nice to see an artist at work! A question: you have put your AC where the water heater used to be, where did you put the WH? I also am moving my WH, and am so reluctant to cut a new hole in the skin that I'm thinking of just sliding it up next an existing side access-hatch, which is more or less the right size and shape. Will have to seal it up tight, and anchor it down somehow, also better have a drain pan I suppose. Any thoughts, experience, or advice? thanks and keep up the excellent work- tim
|
|
|
10-27-2005, 04:01 PM
|
#389
|
418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
hi Uwe- you are doing an outstanding restoration/re-model, nice to see an artist at work! A question: you have put your AC where the water heater used to be, where did you put the WH? I also am moving my WH, and am so reluctant to cut a new hole in the skin that I'm thinking of just sliding it up next an existing side access-hatch, which is more or less the right size and shape. Will have to seal it up tight, and anchor it down somehow, also better have a drain pan I suppose. Any thoughts, experience, or advice? thanks and keep up the excellent work- tim
|
Tim,
I removed my heating furnace, and moved the water heater in it's place. It required a minimal amount of trimming the skin inside and out. I fabbed a small cradle that holds the water tank at the right height to match the outside skin's aperture. I made it from hard wood, so that I can mount a strap for the tank to it once I am finalizing the plumbing. I did not see any need for a drain pan, as all the suspect fittings and drain valves etc are towards the outside of the water heater, and with a good sealing job around the skin, occasional water drops will just make their way out, hopefully, not down and into the wood. In retrospect, it does sound like a good idea. A well designed drain pan certainly can't hurt, for the eventual strange leak that might otherwise soak your floor and cabinetry.
I used a 10gal flush mount water heater, as this model almost perfectly fits into the cavity that the old heater furnace once occupied. I painted the door silver with industrial aluminum paint, and it now looks much less offensive than the white door did.
Cutting or enlarging a hole in the skin is quite easy, as long as there are no ribs in the way.
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|