A '63 for me!

[uwe]

I feel bad for being so excited about my trailer, with all the misery down south in Katrina's aftermath.

[thenewkid64]

Originally Posted by uwe

What about these:
Not trying to be stubborn, just imagining appliance shuddering down the road, copper line having little or no give, and all the while the stresses end up at the connections. Can't be that good. I had to redo a bunch of connections on the 71 Tradewind.
Are those in the link above legal?

I dunno about legal, but they should do the job. I would stub the hard line thru the floor and tap into it there with the flex line. I would also add a shut off valve on the outside before you cone up thru the belly pan and floor.

[uwe]

Almost forgot,
The tub got done, too. They spent over 3 hours on it, prepping, priming, filling, sanding, priming agin, then several coats of finish coating.
Once it's installed, they will come back and wetsand/buff it. Should be really nice. It's slightly grainy right now, but definitely nice.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

I dunno about legal, but they should do the job. I would stub the hard line thru the floor and tap into it there with the flex line. I would also add a shut off valve on the outside before you cone up thru the belly pan and floor.

I want to insure this nightmare once it's done. Too much time and money in it to risk losing it to misfortune.
Hence, my quest for a legal installation.
So far that I know, all but the final connections to the applicane must be made outside the living space of the coach. This means I'd have to run the flex out through the floor, to a shutoff valve right under the belly pan.
Thanks for the shutof valve idea, Brett.

[uwe]

My tires and wheels came in yesterday as well.
4 Marathons, and 4 alloy wheels. I will get a 5th wheel for a spare, once my budget allows.

[fastrob]

Uwe,

Your construction is immaculate.

I like the metal flex line like we have on our gas stove at home.
There is nothing quite like a gas explosion in a metal can.
Easily purchased at a gas supplier.

Is your a/c a window unit? I like your clean roof ideas.
In another thread the mention of cold feet turned me off somewhat.
An air diffuser on the ceiling and ductwork to the peak would be a challenge.
Hot air rises, cold air falls, pick up hot, drop down cold.
Still have trouble with the flow of air, great that you share with us.

A friend dealt in used Airstreams, he never used a spare, they work on three tires, he used a 4 cyl Japanese truck to haul them.

Robert

[A-Merry-Can]

wow! you've made a lot of progress, man. i can't wait until the projects on mine are one day jobs, rather than "i gotta get this done before the rain comes again" type things.


one day!

jordan

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Fast Rob

Uwe,

Your construction is immaculate.

I like the metal flex line like we have on our gas stove at home.
There is nothing quite like a gas explosion in a metal can.
Easily purchased at a gas supplier.

Is your a/c a window unit? I like your clean roof ideas.
In another thread the mention of cold feet turned me off somewhat.
An air diffuser on the ceiling and ductwork to the peak would be a challenge.
Hot air rises, cold air falls, pick up hot, drop down cold.
Still have trouble with the flow of air, great that you share with us.

A friend dealt in used Airstreams, he never used a spare, they work on three tires, he used a 4 cyl Japanese truck to haul them.

Robert

Robert,
Yes, it is a window unit. The biggest and baddest one that still runs on 120V.
I modded it to have 2 4in outlets. You can see one of them in the pictures below. There is plenty room for flexible, insulated ducting to be ran through the walls and overhead bins to bring the air up to roof level. The a/c is efficient enough to push the air through 10-15ft of ducts, without a problem. I did a dry run before permanently installing the beast. I'll post more as I build out the interior. Stay tuned.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

wow! you've made a lot of progress, man. i can't wait until the projects on mine are one day jobs, rather than "i gotta get this done before the rain comes again" type things.


one day!

jordan

It sort of creeps up on you. All of sudden, it's time to put away the air tools and start looking around for the next step in the queue.
I can attest to the fact that once the burns from welding and wounds from metal work have healed, the itching from removing old insulation has subsided, the fear of dying from rot and mildew has eased, this is actually great fun!

[pinkflamingoes]

Originally Posted by uwe

I feel bad for being so excited about my trailer, with all the misery down south in Katrina's aftermath.

I think everybody feels bad, just getting on with their lives. Just remember you're concentrating on what's important in life by finishing this trailer, because a disaster can befall any of us.

You're making so much progress and I've been going so slowly! Tomorrow I'm going back to work on the windows. Keep up the motivation for the rest of us!

[Ken J]

Uwe

I'm not sure about the rubber lines as those in your link. My understanding is the residential metal ones are a no no. I don't know if the rubber are legal. However, since you have to have all connections outside the belly, I would be concerned about the rubber rubbing against the belly sheet metal. I if you make the hole big enough, you invite the mice.... My (again its my understanding from reading this stuff for about 8 years) understanding is you want to use flair joints at the appliance. The worst case for that type of fitting is you have to tighen them every once in a while.

I agree with Brett on the valves - its what I plan to do and is what I had on the Tradewind.

A quick check for gas leaks is to run the stove (as in light it). Then shut off the stove and the valve at the tank. Wait 15 minutes - then light the stove (don't turn the valve on the main tank) - when you light it, it will run a bit before it goes out. If it doesn't - you have a leak.

Ken

[Ken J]

Those wheels look fantastic!!!!

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Ken J

Those wheels look fantastic!!!!

Thanks, Ken. I will mount and balance them on Tuesday, then I can let you know how they fit.
From the looks of it, they should be perfect, as they are 15x6, zero offset.
Just like a factory wheel.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Ken J

Uwe

I'm not sure about the rubber lines as those in your link. My understanding is the residential metal ones are a no no. I don't know if the rubber are legal. However, since you have to have all connections outside the belly, I would be concerned about the rubber rubbing against the belly sheet metal. I if you make the hole big enough, you invite the mice.... My (again its my understanding from reading this stuff for about 8 years) understanding is you want to use flair joints at the appliance. The worst case for that type of fitting is you have to tighen them every once in a while.

I agree with Brett on the valves - its what I plan to do and is what I had on the Tradewind.

A quick check for gas leaks is to run the stove (as in light it). Then shut off the stove and the valve at the tank. Wait 15 minutes - then light the stove (don't turn the valve on the main tank) - when you light it, it will run a bit before it goes out. If it doesn't - you have a leak.

Ken

I can run solid copper to all the appliances but the refrigerator. You're right, it's not that big of a deal to tighten some fitting every once in a blue moon.

I used to drip soapy water onto the fittings, and watch for bubbles. Someone told me this would be a good leak detection method.

My refrigerator is a hardwood slides, so I can easily pull it forward for service. I believe I already mentioned that I did not want to cut the skin for an access panel, so I plan on simply making the side wall that covers the fridge removeable towards the entry door space. This means that the fridge's LP supply line must be somewhat flexible, to facilitate the movement of the unit in case of a service need.

What size copper is the main supply line, typically? What size are the individual appliance feeds?

[Ken J]

Uwe

To solve the refrig problem, you can make a big circle with the copper so that it will allow you to pull the frig out enough to take the gas line off.

Yea soap is what I use on new connections.

Now you are taxing my brain on the size - 3/8" to appliances and 1/2" main supply line from the tanks??? Now I wish I had the Tradewind to measure. I'm sure someone will know here.

Did you catch my post on the special gas rated copper?

Ken

[greg176]

I am soon at the point where I have to decide on where to place the batteries.Looking at page 11 of this thread it appears that there may still be room for a battery box on the tongue.I may also place batteries under front dinette in vented box.I also like the idea of putting them inboard of the right wheel tub.Been thinking this one out for a year now and still not decided.

[Ken J]

In my view I would put the batteries anywhere forward of the wheel well. I plan to put as little weight in the rear as possible. I also plan to put mine on the tongue (just using one battery) as it is forward and in the center of the trailer.........

Ken J.

[A-Merry-Can]

my original plan was to have the batteries slide out (on a sliding shelf) of the rear access hatch on my 18 footer, how many batteries do i need to allow for? i was planning on 2. is this significant enough (weight-wise) to make me locate all thsi junk up front? i do understand the need for a vented box, however. just not sure about all the balance issues.

one advantage, i guess in reloacing everything up front is i could seal up that rear hatch and make the back end really smooth and clean.

jordan

[uwe]

My trailer had the 10gal water heater immediately behind the rear axle, under the bed. There was also a galvanized fresh water tank under the bed, right above the axles. ( Gone!) I moved the water heater to the front, where the furnace used to reside. I placed the a/c where the water heater used to be. Opposite the galley is the refrigerator, and opposite the a/c I placed the two batteries. Both these items are as close to the wheel well as possible. I di drun a 4ga battery cable to the tongue, in case it becomes necessary to add tongue weight by moving the batteries there. However, I am confident that this will be ok. A trip to the scles once finished, will tell.
Also, I am going to install a spare tire in teh spot right behind the tanks. In due time...
I have 50 or so gal of fresh water ahead of the front axle, at sub floor level.
My plan should give good weight balance, especially with a better than half full water tank.
The a/c weighs about 70lbs, both batteries weigh about 70 lbs also. I am unsure of how much the refrigerator will weigh, or the galley etc. But have a feeling that once it's all ready to go and loaded with food, it should be balanced nicely side to side, and have the necessary tongue weight to make it a nice towing trailer. Or so I think.......

[greg176]

I may just run wires under front left window and leave long enough to cover placing batteries from tongue to under sink.I could then use them to adjust tongue weight.