A 1963 Overlander named Moonraker!

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by Air Cruiser

Becky, as Kay said, thanks for the info. I had no idea that the Scotch Brite pads came in colors -- are the ones you are using already cut to shape for the orbital? (I'm assuming round.)

DH mentioned he was thinking of trying some 1500grit or 1200 grit sandpaper, but I backed away and I think he could tell by my frown that I didn't want him to get too crazy with trying things. Now, I guess I should tuck my tail and apologize to him -- if Becky's trying it, but must be okay. So, wet sanding? Do you spray the aluminum with clear water then sand?

Deb

We wet sand all the time. Keep a bucket of water next to you & soak the block/paper in it regularly. Spray bottles work too. Its just compound stuck to paper after all.
Colin

[Becky B.]

What Colin said....:-)

[Aerowood]

I posted a thread on nutplates, is it helpful to you?

[reinergirl]

Hehehe Nice to know I'm in good company.

Thanks to all of you for your comments! I am making progress... Today was a better day, I managed to complete one section and I got out the cyclo to do the final polish and VTS sent me the wrong compound

The cloudiness is the remaining corrosion... Thanks John for the tip about pressure, it seemed to help. My arms don't thank you however!

In the bad areas I will resort to sandpaper like Becky and Colin uses... I just didn't want to jump right on that. I actually have grey scotchbrite that I believe is even finer than maroon. It works great on solid aluminum frames and such.

I sincerely thought that this wouldn't be so hard. But I'm definitely getting better at it and today proved that I just have to slow down and take my time.

Deb, I bought scaffolding to do the top, I'm kinda a wimp when it comes to ladders. Polishing is hard enough without balancing on a ladder!

I will admit I think my eyeliner is now permanent!

[reinergirl]

Originally Posted by Aerowood

I posted a thread on nutplates, is it helpful to you?

Thank you Kip! It's a big help .

[Becky B.]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

Hehehe Nice to know I'm in good company.

Thanks to all of you for your comments! I am making progress... Today was a better day, I managed to complete one section and I got out the cyclo to do the final polish and VTS sent me the wrong compound

The cloudiness is the remaining corrosion... Thanks John for the tip about pressure, it seemed to help. My arms don't thank you however!

In the bad areas I will resort to sandpaper like Becky and Colin uses... I just didn't want to jump right on that. I actually have grey scotchbrite that I believe is even finer than maroon. It works great on solid aluminum frames and such.

I sincerely thought that this wouldn't be so hard. But I'm definitely getting better at it and today proved that I just have to slow down and take my time.

Deb, I bought scaffolding to do the top, I'm kinda a wimp when it comes to ladders. Polishing is hard enough without balancing on a ladder!

I will admit I think my eyeliner is now permanent!

I wanted to make clear that the scotchbrite pads I use are 3M maroon pads that are for metal. They come in a rectangular size that I cut to fit the random orbit sander (about 5") It doesn't fit perfectly, but is a little short. They have them at Home Depot. I used grey (very fine) "scotchbrite" roloc pads that were 3" round and fit in an air grinder. They were too rough & left some scratches that I had to work at a bit to remove. Just a FYI.

And I agree about the ladder! I'm almost finished with the top & will breathe a sigh of relief if I make it through without falling & breaking a hip!!!

[HiHoAgRV]

Has anyone found a good gasket for the door-n-door for these '63's? I'm not making the assumption that it's the same as the other years since the design is unique to 63. I tried some big box self adhesive bulb stuff, maybe 3/8" and it didn't come close.

[safari62]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

Thank you Kip! It's a big help .

Thanks for that info Kip.

Up to now I thought a nutplate was what a person had installed in their head after falling off a ladder while polishing an Airstream.

Scaffolding is a much better idea.

Gary

[reinergirl]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

Has anyone found a good gasket for the door-n-door for these '63's? I'm not making the assumption that it's the same as the other years since the design is unique to 63. I tried some big box self adhesive bulb stuff, maybe 3/8" and it didn't come close.

I used the medium d seal from VTS it fit perfectly on the interior of door frame, not on the door itself. Medium D Seal Airstream

By the way what's different about the 63? My door looks exactly like my sisters 60 Tradewind . I also used the seal that Steve says doesn't fit on the main door 63 but it worked great Airstream Door Gasket

I asked VTS what the difference was in the 63’s via email but never got a response....


Huh, I just walked out there and my hinge doesn't look like that, mine looks more like a piano hinge...

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

I used the medium d seal from VTS it fit perfectly on the interior of door frame, not on the door itself. Medium D Seal Airstream

By the way what's different about the 63? My door looks exactly like my sisters 60 Tradewind . I also used the seal that Steve says doesn't fit on the main door 63 but it worked great Airstream Door Gasket

I asked VTS what the difference was in the 63’s via email but never got a response....

Huh, I just walked out there and my hinge doesn't look like that, mine looks more like a piano hinge...

My 63 has hinges that are not the strap type for the inner door. It's actually attached to the door.

[reinergirl]

My hinges are not straps but they aren't exactly like that






I saved the extra d seal want me to send you a sample piece?

[reinergirl]

It's my door in a door that has the piano hinge, that's the d seal installed.

[Colin H]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

My 63 has hinges that are not the strap type for the inner door. It's actually attached to the door.

This is probably one of the California production differences.
Colin

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by Colin H

This is probably one of the California production differences.
Colin

You can't be serious! Differences in production? ;0)

Shelly, can you post a VTS part number or photo of the end of the seal against a coin? I gotta do something because with no seal the small door latches won't stay latched. By slamming the door ( it has new gaskets and is a 'bit' tight) the latches pop open and the door-in-the-door swings open.

[reinergirl]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

You can't be serious! Differences in production? ;0)

Shelly, can you post a VTS part number or photo of the end of the seal against a coin? I gotta do something because with no seal the small door latches won't stay latched. By slamming the door ( it has new gaskets and is a 'bit' tight) the latches pop open and the door-in-the-door swings open.

If you click on the blue lettering in my previous post it will take you there or click on this

Medium D Seal Airstream

It is crazy how different your trailer and mine is. No wonder Wally started the push for standardization in 64

[reinergirl]

Well, it turns out polishing is not something that can be done for 8 hours a day. I average 3 hours and at the end of that my hands look like crab claws! It's really not easy to type that way! I know .....Excuses, excuses ... The truth is I've been ignoring this thread because I am so far behind in catching it up.

I had my tongue and bumper covered with black plastic since we brou ght Moonraker home, evidently POR 13 is sensitive to UV exposure. So as soon as the temps began to rise, I wanted to topcoat them. The step also needed to be topcoated.

I decided to use the POR Sterling silver paint. I wanted something that was extra tough and hopefully last for a few years. At $27 a PINT, this stuff better! I also bought the POR self-etching primer because at this point the bumper and tongue had fully cured.

I always tape off the rim when I pour paints, it keeps the channel clean and its especially important with the Sterling Silver paint.

Evidently the paint adheres so strongly to metal that it will actually glue the lid on permanently! I put a piece of heavy plastic under rim between uses and didn't have a problem

I cleaned with Marine Clean, scuffed up all the surfaces with 300 grit, taped off anything I didn't want to get paint on ( I will return to this point later. I know, you can't wait! ), painted one medium coat with the primer and a foam brush, waited thirty minutes for it to dry and then did 2 coats with the sterling silver. Voila!

No pictures of the bumper cause I'm an airhead

My impressions? I'm glad I used the primer which was light gray in color. The sterling silver paint was like water, very hard to get a even coverage. If I had been painting it over the black POR I think it would have been more difficult. I got a mostly streak free finish but I understand why people complain about this paint being streaky.

Would I use it again? I don't think so.

First it's expensive - $27 for the paint, $30 for the primer plus shipping! And honestly I've gotten a better finish out of rattle cans. And as I already own a 4 stage HVLP Fuji Paint sprayer (I collect tools the way old ladies collect cats!) I probably would have been better off with an automative paint.

Remember that story I alluded to earlier? Well, when I removed the painters tape (the delicate stuff no less) it actually removed the so called powder coat on my Bull dog jack! I just ran out there and took a picture of it in the poring rain so you could see. I'm nice like that.

Powder coat that scrapes off with my fingernail? Good job Bulldog! I deliberately chose this jack because it has metal gears and is made in the USA. Sigh, I think I'll rattle can it and see what holds up better!

On a side note My helper turned one recently..... Happy Birthday Finnegan!

[Becky B.]

I think I saw some shine on that there front end, Shelly!! Me thinks you're holding out on us! I've neglected my AS project too, so don't feel bad. Going camping in the "other" silver palace next week & have to get things up to snuff! That beast needs the bumper & tongue painted too. I might just go with the rustoleum! It sure is easier than all the por steps (but por does last forever!) Looking great!

[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

?... I might just go with the rustoleum! It sure is easier than all the por steps (but por does last forever!) Looking great!

I have some experience with that. 3-4 years ago I blasted my Hensley, used por metal etch, black Por15, followed by their primer and finally rattle can rustolium (sp). It's still in perfect shape.

2 years ago I did my 63's frame, except I used Eastwoods rust paint and didnt use any top coat. It's still perfect. I believe they state it doesn't degrade in UV. Plus it was cheaper.

I'm about to order more Eastwood.

[reinergirl]

Originally Posted by beckybillrae

I think I saw some shine on that there front end, Shelly!! Me thinks you're holding out on us! I've neglected my AS project too, so don't feel bad. Going camping in the "other" silver palace next week & have to get things up to snuff! That beast needs the bumper & tongue painted too. I might just go with the rustoleum! It sure is easier than all the por steps (but por does last forever!) Looking great!

Hahaha That's actually new metal (replacement panel)! But I have pretty much everything from the top of the windows down ready for the final cyclo pass. Will post pretty pictures soon! Onto the roof

[Sum75]

Awesome work as always! Thanks for the tip about taping paint can rims, who knew? So would you still use the POR but just topcoat with something else, or would you choose something else to bind the rust from the get-go?