'63 Overlander Questions

[uwe]

Originally Posted by binyah

Hi,
Just yanked a 63 Overlander out of the kudzu vines, in the 95 degree heat, what fun! The adventure has commenced, (My first AS).

I searched the forum and know its been answered before but cannot find it:

What do I use to clean nicotene off the Zolatone?

Many Thanks

You might end up repainting. The Zolatone in my 1963 would not clean up, period....

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by uwe

You might end up repainting. The Zolatone in my 1963 would not clean up, period....

Taking this thread on a mild tangent, our 63 Overlander also had its Zolatone repainted, before we acquired it. The spots I have found that weren't, have serious nicotine deposits and other stains. It doesn't seem to come clean very well, but other years and models I have had, or worked on, the stuff cleaned right up with minimal effort (okay, a lot of effort, but it obviously came clean). I wonder if it is year-specific?
Does anyone know if the formula for Zolatone has changed to be more cleaning-friendly?

[uwe]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Taking this thread on a mild tangent, our 63 Overlander also had its Zolatone repainted, before we acquired it. The spots I have found that weren't, have serious nicotine deposits and other stains. It doesn't seem to come clean very well, but other years and models I have had, or worked on, the stuff cleaned right up with minimal effort (okay, a lot of effort, but it obviously came clean). I wonder if it is year-specific?
Does anyone know if the formula for Zolatone has changed to be more cleaning-friendly?

Since I just recently researched new and old Zolatone, here's my thoughts:
According to Shari's ( http://www.insideout-design.net/VintageAS-models.html ) model year matrix, Zolatone was being used from 1953 on in California models, and soon thereafter also in Ohio built models. But it is apparent that on my trailer's walls, it was applied very poorly, with many sags and runs. The splatter pattern is uneven, with many little splatters in some ares, and hardly any in others. The end caps seem to be the worst.
I believe that the success of using Zolatone has a lot to do with preparation and proper application, which would explain a variance in durability and cleanability from one trailer to another. My 63's interior finish was simply applied sloppily, and then eventually flaked off in spots, especially on the ceiling.
I spent a whole day just power sanding the interior panels, in order to remove the Zolatone that was aged and brittle.
Perhaps dirt, moisture and nicotine can easier penetrate a poorly applied finish, as opposed to one that is applied properly and with integrity?
The modern day Zolatone finishes are much different in composition from the early versions, it seems. Most colors and textures are available as both water based or solvent based finishes. The latest original Zolatone composition that resembles the original colors and textures is in their Polomyx line. Surely the change in composition has a lot to do with environmental issues.

[overlander63]

Okay, our '63 is an Ohio unit, I wonder if the Zolatone guy there had a bad year?

[binyah]

I tried today some "Mean Green General Purpose Citrus Cleaner" ($2/qt) in the spray bottle from Family Dollar. Took the nicotene off in a few seconds. A little of the zolatone comes off too, like maybe the "dead paint" on your car will do. Leaves a fuller and richer zolatone color. I only spot checked and hope there is no long term side effects.
Also, I will try the "Greased Lightning Blast All Wheel Cleaner" said to be available at Wal-mat, Pep Boys, etc. See description, the web site is glblast.com/products.html#wheel

Thanks

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by binyah

.
Also, I will try the "Greased Lightning Blast All Wheel Cleaner" said to be available at Wal-mat, Pep Boys, etc.
Thanks

It is good you found something to take off the nicotine, just be careful with the wheel cleaner, many contain acids meant to clean cast aluminum wheels that have no paint on them. I am not sure what the affect would be on Zolatone, but I likely wouldn't be good.

[binyah]

What was the stock size Dometic Refrig for 1963 Overlander. Mine is gone and replaced with an Instamatic, I think. Also, they cut the refrig scoop to fit this larger/taller unit. I want to go back down to the original size.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by binyah

What was the stock size Dometic Refrig for 1963 Overlander. Mine is gone and replaced with an Instamatic, I think. Also, they cut the refrig scoop to fit this larger/taller unit. I want to go back down to the original size.

Oooh, if they cut the scoop, they you're in a bit of trouble. Replacements are hard to find, and likely expensive if you do find one.
However, unless the fridge that was installed is hugely tall, you might consider adapting a 2-door vertical fridge, as found in many later model trailers. Freezer on top, fridge on bottom. I am putting on of these in my 1963 Overlander, and it looks as though it would work well by simply raising the countertop and cabinet sides above it by a few inches.

Best,

[AYRSTRM2]

While we're on the topic of scoops, what if your scoop has a cut in it, are they easy to repair? Ours has a cut that obviously somebody started hacking with a saw and then rethought it.

John

Originally Posted by uwe

Oooh, if they cut the scoop, they you're in a bit of trouble. Replacements are hard to find, and likely expensive if you do find one.
However, unless the fridge that was installed is hugely tall, you might consider adapting a 2-door vertical fridge, as found in many later model trailers. Freezer on top, fridge on bottom. I am putting on of these in my 1963 Overlander, and it looks as though it would work well by simply raising the countertop and cabinet sides above it by a few inches.

Best,

[binyah]

Originally Posted by overlander63

It is good you found something to take off the nicotine, just be careful with the wheel cleaner, many contain acids meant to clean cast aluminum wheels that have no paint on them. I am not sure what the affect would be on Zolatone, but I likely wouldn't be good.

I went Negative on the GL Blast wheel cleaner, to many "acid" & "ammonia" sounding ingredients on the label.
The natural citrus cleaner works good for now.

[uwe]

Originally Posted by AYRSTRM2

While we're on the topic of scoops, what if your scoop has a cut in it, are they easy to repair? Ours has a cut that obviously somebody started hacking with a saw and then rethought it.

John

My scoop is made of fiberglass, should be easy to repair this. Get a fiberglass repair kit from a boating supply, and follow directions on how to mix it. Make sure and do the repair from the backside, which means you will have to remove the scoop.
Then repair the cut by overlapping fiberglass from the back. When it has set, fill the cut from the front with some of the resin. Sand it smooth when done, and then paint it.

[binyah]

I have all of the bunks, tub, cabinets, kitchen taken out except for two closets and a bulkhead. Is it safe to remove them also with weight of the AC on top? Can I still tow around complety unfurnished inside? In other words, do these closets and bulkhead serve a load bearing purpose?
Many Thanks,
Bill Mc
Lexington, SC

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by binyah

Is it safe to remove them also with weight of the AC on top? Can I still tow around complety unfurnished inside? In other words, do these closets and bulkhead serve a load bearing purpose?

Bill, Airstreams are designed to have all the load bearing on the shell, and bows in the walls and roof. But, they weren't designed for the air conditioners, either. I believe they were pre-wired for A/C starting in 64 or 65.
If you don't feel comfortable having no walls in your coach with the A/C, cut a 2x4 as a brace, take the lower plastic cover off the A/C unit, and wedge the 2x4 between the floor and the A/C. Don't wedge it into the ceiling, but the A/C unit itself.

[wkerfoot]

Originally Posted by overlander63

Bill, Airstreams are designed to have all the load bearing on the shell, and bows in the walls and roof. But, they weren't designed for the air conditioners, either. I believe they were pre-wired for A/C starting in 64 or 65.
If you don't feel comfortable having no walls in your coach with the A/C, cut a 2x4 as a brace, take the lower plastic cover off the A/C unit, and wedge the 2x4 between the floor and the A/C. Don't wedge it into the ceiling, but the A/C unit itself.

Terry,

Different Bill, but I towed my 1954 30' Liner from Tampa to Orange, CA (2300+ miles) with basically no interior but an A/C unit on the roof and no problems. If you remember what Andy of Inland said about the strength of the roof, if it will hold 30 men it will certainly hold an A/C unit.

Bill

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by wkerfoot

Terry,

Different Bill, but I towed my 1954 30' Liner from Tampa to Orange, CA (2300+ miles) with basically no interior but an A/C unit on the roof and no problems. If you remember what Andy of Inland said about the strength of the roof, if it will hold 30 men it will certainly hold an A/C unit.

Bill

Right, Bill, but some folks don't feel comfortable towing a trailer in that manner. The brace won't hurt a thing, and if it gives the person peace of mind, so much the better.

[binyah]

Fast/Great replys all, thanks.

The a/c is so old and ugly w/ nicotene, and a little cranky at start up, that i prefer to replace with a new low profile unit. It is cold though.
Meanwhile the 2x4 brace will be so easy when needed.

I just want an occasional weekend off to actually use the coach for some camping, even when its completely empty! I got a cushion, sleeping bag, folding chairs etc. and coleman stove. I will cardboard & ducttape the holes in the floor for now. No tent needed Yay!

So now the rest of the closets and bulkhead are on tommorows to-do clipboard. Maybe furnace, hot water heater, galv tank, and ac next week.

[wam52]

Looking for someone with experience in removing original push pin door hardware!