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Old 02-16-2021, 05:02 PM   #1
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62 Overlander questions

Thanks in advance to all you vintage lovers who provide their knowledge and experience.

This Hehr vent is in the hallway ceiling near the back bath. The small switch in the center (not the big switch next to it labeled city & shore) that's hardly visible. Would that have been to change directions on the fan.

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Old 02-16-2021, 05:16 PM   #2
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Hard to say without seeing backside. Does it have 2 wires or 4? If only 2 most likely on/off.
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Old 02-16-2021, 05:43 PM   #3
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Thanks 57 Vintage.

The power switch is the large silver switch next to it. It works. The switch we are wondering about is the small toggle switch on the inside I marked it up in the photo in case it wasn't visible.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-03-2021, 02:00 PM   #4
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Next question:
What was/is this waste/dump valve called? It's on the lower right corner of belly pan under the black tank. We don't have the screw on cap but might be able to source it in the plumbing section. If this original doesn't work or is no longer made or reproduced does it likely get replaced with a modern Valterra valve.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-06-2021, 01:09 PM   #5
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No answers, the vintage folks must be taking a break.

So we found a cap for it at Ace Hardware. Only threaded on after we worked on it to free the threads of calcified gunk. Haven't found an interior gasket that fits yet but will look a bit longer or make one.

We posed the question to Steve from VTS and he replied

"That's a rare thing of beauty!* At least by waste standards."

Nice to know we have something special.

Steve advised that it is pre Thereford and obsolete. We'll be careful with it and see if we can still make it work. Might even affix it with a hook and chain so it doesn't become road debris as we tool down the road.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-06-2021, 02:34 PM   #6
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Obsolete Thetford

Concerning your queries about the brass Thetford valve and "frying pan" cover, your early Airstream has a fiberglass black tank. A very nice convenience indeed...but these were among the first to have such, so they are pretty primitive by today's standards. Regardless, I and many have kept them and reworked them to be made a bit more convenient for the modern camper.


On the bottom of your tank is embedded a brass fitting with the output hole in the center and four threaded holes to attach the dump valve. The early Thetford valves were brass...corroded to a pretty mint green now...alas, still things of beauty.


Your frying pan is one for draining gray water- it has the garden hose fitting. Others were solid, meant to cap the dump valve when traveling. When I recently bought my' 61 TradeWind, it had the original valve and several frying pans. I sold them to an interested gentleman who intends to keep his '61 Bambi's black tank system bone stock, or close to it, and wanted some extra parts. I applaud his tenacity.


As for me and several others, adapting to modern Valterra seems to be the way to go. This involves making or having made an adapter plate to go from the original brass fitting to the modern Valterra. I use Delrin plastic. Some have used aluminum for this adapter plate, but the aluminum seems to disintegrate under the harshness of the liquids in the black tank, and some have failed.


Once you have made and installed the adapter plate, you can bolt on a modern Valterra valve and buy/use fittings in any RV store across the country. Many of us have used this valve which includes the 3" dump line and a 1.5" gray line in a low-profile valve:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1



The adapter plates for my '61 differ from the one I had made for my '64. The black outlet hole is a different size, as is the bolt pattern for the original Thetford valve.


Included are pictures of an original Thetford brass valve; an aluminum adapter plate (which also demonstrates how its center hole is too big for the outlet hole on my '61 tank); a Delrin adapter plate in progress, and a picture of the Valterra valve screwed onto the adapter plate on my Bambi II...but is was leaking and I still had work to do. Turned out the brass plate in the original tank needed to be reset. It all turned out well. Best wishes whichever way you decide to go...
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Old 03-06-2021, 02:40 PM   #7
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Here are the Thetford fittings I got with my '61. Note also the two galvanized steel sheets, each with a half-circle cut out of it...these slide together to make a "gopher hole cover." This was an Airstream accessory believe it or not.
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Old 03-06-2021, 02:42 PM   #8
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Thx PA B and also for the photos. "Liked" calling it a frying pan that's a very apt description.
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Old 03-06-2021, 05:06 PM   #9
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"Frying pan"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl View Post
Thx PA B and also for the photos. "Liked" calling it a frying pan that's a very apt description.

Thank you...but I did not come up with it. The "frying pan" is literally mentioned in this memo from Airstream, found in my 1961 "owner's manual:"
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Old 03-06-2021, 05:42 PM   #10
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Well they were right, way back them too.

Wow you have an owners manual for a 61. That's not so common. Any chance you would post a copy of that someday. Even photographs would suffice.

Have not had a owners manual for our 65, 62, 61 and now 62.
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Old 03-06-2021, 06:00 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl View Post
Well they were right, way back them too.

Wow you have an owners manual for a 61. That's not so common. Any chance you would post a copy of that someday. Even photographs would suffice.

Have not had a owners manual for our 65, 62, 61 and now 62.

It is my understanding that official owner's manuals started in the 1964 model year. I got a wonderful folder of original manuals and Airstream memos on every single system associated with the trailer, from the refrigerator to the septic system to the electric brakes, etc., etc., etc. The compilation explains everything one could ever want to know about the trailer's systems.
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Old 03-06-2021, 07:52 PM   #12
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That's a very impressive packet that was passed on.
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Old 03-06-2021, 08:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hittenstiehl View Post
Thanks in advance to all you vintage lovers who provide their knowledge and experience.

This Hehr vent is in the hallway ceiling near the back bath. The small switch in the center (not the big switch next to it labeled city & shore) that's hardly visible. Would that have been to change directions on the fan.

ThanksAttachment 388840

That switch on motor area was on and off, the city/shore simply gave the power source. Option 1 was the 12 volt battery or what was coming from the tow vehicle if so connected, option two is the small transformer mounted in the corner of the vent which took 110 and made enough 12 volt current to power the 12 volt fan motor. This was because the trailers didn't have a univolt or other means of making 12 volt for the whole trailer.

The switch inside will be a mess of wires, 6 contacts with some jumpers, it's interesting to say the least. If you've added a whole trailer converter I'd consider disconnecting the corner transformer from the 110 and really just using 12 volt jumpered across both sides of the city/shore switch so it's a nice looking cover for the hole. If you take out that little transformer for any reason, I know a guy (me) that needs one to make our 63 look correct, working or not.

Hope that helps!
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Old 03-07-2021, 02:04 PM   #14
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Thank you very much Goranson for the reply that clears it up a bit. We just tried it on 110 and the larger City Power toggle switch does needs to be ON and also the smaller mounted in the fan toggle on/off switch needs to be flipped ON.

We would test it on 12-volt right now but it seems we have shorted something. Will post a question about that in a moment.

Interesting about the little transformer. We believed it had something to do with the power but weren't sure what. There is a chance we will be removing that. The vent lifter handles don't stay on, we can't get the fan open right now. Going to spray the lifters with some kroil to see if they are just stuck. We have a extra fantastic fan to possibly put in it.

We have a second small transformer like that above the stove and under the kitchen exhaust fan. Will post a picture of that in a bit. We need to start a separate thread for the 62 also.
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Old 03-07-2021, 05:03 PM   #15
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Next Question:
Where would we find our 12Volt breaker if there is one?

The 12V had been working.

DH was testing some capped off wiring and after that our 12V is out. We didn't hear any popping (breaker?) at the time but there was lots of other noise so we might have missed it.

Of course it could be something else but we're thinking it's connected.

There have been some wiring modifications over time so he was just using his tester on some wires that were capped off.

We've looked everywhere and only find the 110 breaker. 110 is still working.

There is a small square patch (compartment) up under the belly pan near the front outriggers.

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-07-2021, 07:27 PM   #16
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Hey, I'm learning something about pre univolt Airstreams. I don't have any experience with them. So I'll follow along with your conversations. I do know my 66 Trade Wind manual did describe how to dig a gopher hole below the black tank drain. But it had a regular slide valve dump valve, not a frying pan. We've grown beyond that primitive technique. Heck, we dug gopher holes when Boy Scout camping.

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Old 03-07-2021, 09:57 PM   #17
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The kitchen stove vent should also have one, you are correct. Ours was a wall mount vent, so it was in the upper cabinet, if it was a upper cabinet mount hood, it would be in the hood area.

There are 2 stock circuit breakers for 12 volt. 62/63 was a goofy time with lots of changes so forgive me if I'm wrong. If you have the front battery box under the window, it's likely in there, or where the power wire comes under the front couch or tank area by the water pump etc. depending on your layout.

If you have the street side battery box you'll find the circuit breaker attached to the inside skin under the kitchen cabinet above the battery box next to the furnace.

There is likely a second one in the belly pan where the tow vehicle cord comes in as a junction point for the charge wire. both are coated in some type of rubberized insulation to keep them from shorting to anything.

Hope that helps!
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:01 PM   #18
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take 12 volt off the trailer completely, wait a minute and put it back on, the it's an auto-reset style breaker, it doesn't trip with a noise, well maybe as loud as an old school turn signal blinker.

no fuses stock.

Here's what you should find, well similar to this, again coated in tar or whatever you'd call it.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7...oCVG8QAvD_BwE&
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Old 03-07-2021, 10:29 PM   #19
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Goranson,
That helps a lot. Regarding the 2nd transformer it's up in the street kitchen cabinet over the stove. Transformer actually gets quite hot/warm to the touch when on 110.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-07-2021, 10:47 PM   #20
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G, regarding the 12V we will look under the front belly pan for starters. It has screws versus rivets so it will be easy to get into although in a awkward position.

Our 62 Ohio model has the small "flower box" battery box under the front window. Only thing in there is batteries and wires. (Very tight space)

Our fresh water tank, along with the water heater is under under the street side twin bed.

While researching we just read a great article/slideshow from Fred Coldwell from 2009. The article described some of the differences between CA and OH Airstream builds while using a 62 Overlander as comparison. Since we've had 3 CA models and now our first OH it was very interesting.Click image for larger version

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