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Old 06-27-2018, 07:48 AM   #1
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1963 26' Overlander
Easley , South Carolina
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1963 wiring odyssey

I am trying to sort out why the emerson quiet kool does not turn on at least the fan. Can someone post some pictures of where the fusebox and things are?

I found one panel on the pass rear side in the cabinet next to the bathroom.
I think I found the battery box without battery and the wires bare (put electrical tape on them), it was on the driver side near the stove on the outside.
I found a screw in type fuse socket on the passenger side first cabinet.
Did not find a univolt unit.
I found that many lights have a battery and a light switch.
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:15 PM   #2
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1963 26' Overlander
Easley , South Carolina
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Any takers?
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:51 PM   #3
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Is this a coach you just purchased?
It is hard to tell from your pics. But the panel you show in the first 2 pics appears to have some wiring issues.
The green wire appears to be terminated at the neutral buss. There doesn't appear to be a proper ground buss.
Not sure how the shore power hot leg is terminated.
Has the A/C worked in the past?
I see 2 thermostats. Where did they come from?



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Old 06-30-2018, 10:34 PM   #4
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1963 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
Is this a coach you just purchased?
It is hard to tell from your pics. But the panel you show in the first 2 pics appears to have some wiring issues.
The green wire appears to be terminated at the neutral buss. There doesn't appear to be a proper ground buss.
Not sure how the shore power hot leg is terminated.
Has the A/C worked in the past?
I see 2 thermostats. Where did they come from?



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Yes, We just bought it a few weeks ago. I want to get everything checked out as working before I restore it. I'll get a better photo of the fuse panel tomorrow.
I think someone wired the ac to run with battery? at least in fan mode? No idea.
But I definitely want get the wiring right before doing anything else. Thank you for your help
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:47 AM   #5
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The A/C will not run off of the battery. Unless you have a huge inverter and LOTS of battery capacity.
Do any of the 120 volt outlets have power?
There appears to be just 2 120 volt circuits from the power distribution panel.
One could be the A/C circuit.
The other could be power for the converter and outlets. Just a guess on my part.
There doesn't appear to be a MAIN breaker which would shut everything off.
Are the circuit breakers turned on?
One thermostat may be for the furnace.
The other for the A/C.
Do you see any small wires sticking out of the interior dividing walls?
What are you using to power the coach?
Is the screw in fuse holder located close to the power panel or A/C unit?

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Old 07-01-2018, 10:10 PM   #6
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Hi Twinkie
Yes, I figured the AC won't run on battery. The PO had it removed and I isolated the wires with some electrical tape.
I checked all the outlets have power. I don't seem to have a converter. The right breaker controls the lights and I think the outlets around the airstream. The left one I thought may be for battery. Those two disconnected wires go to the screw in fuse , which is close to the AC unit. there are some wires that go to the ac and two wires seem to go back somewhere. probably as you had described to the the furnace.
I've ben using an 15 amp outlet from my house with an extension wire. It seems to work ok to power the lights.

I do want to check out the disconnect wire and why it is undone.
Thank you all for helping me here
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:40 PM   #7
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You can not run the A/C unit with an extension cord. You could test it by running the A/C fan but not the compressor.
I am not familiar with the layout of your coach. Don't know where the converter would be located.
The screw in fuse holder may be wired to the line side of the power panel. See if it has power with both circuit breakers off and power to the coach.




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Old 07-02-2018, 09:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
You can not run the A/C unit with an extension cord. You could test it by running the A/C fan but not the compressor.
I am not familiar with the layout of your coach. Don't know where the converter would be located.
The screw in fuse holder may be wired to the line side of the power panel. See if it has power with both circuit breakers off and power to the coach.




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Understood, I want to run the fan, though, to verify function. That should work without the compressor.
I uploaded some better pictures of the fusebox in various angles. I hope that they show up clearer.
How can I edit these photo's , because all of them are in the wrong orientation. The black wire with the yellow cap is pointing upwards in reality.
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Old 07-02-2018, 06:35 PM   #9
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The pictures are OK.
A few things:
I see 2 white romex cables which enter the interior skin. Looks like factory installed.
The black romex does not appear to go behind the skin. Looks like a PO install. Does this romex go to the screw in fuse holder?
It is not connected in the power panel. Correct?
To me this looks like the original power panel that a PO tried to modify.

Do you know how to use a multi meter?

It appears to me that this is a split buss panel. Meaning the large terminal screw on the upper right with the black shore power conductor is connected is only feeding power to the circuit breaker on the right. The 20 amp unit.
The large screw on the left should power the circuit breaker on the left. If I am correct in my assumption.
Which means the left circuit breaker is not powered at this time.
You could easily check it with a meter.

A technical note.
This is not a fuse panel. It is commonly called a power distribution panel. There are no fuses in this panel. It has circuit breakers.
For use in your coach it is wired for 120 volts AC.

Can you identify where the wires go from the screw base fuse holder?

At first glance I would recommend a larger power distribution panel. Giving you the ability to have a MAIN circuit breaker along with a proper neutral buss as well as a proper ground buss.
What you have is a real hodge podge.

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Old 07-02-2018, 08:36 PM   #10
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edit: I did not read TG's post, sorry for the repeated information below!

I think the panel is a 2 pole equipment disconnect that is being repurposed as a distribution panel. First thing I would to I get a new panel and breakers. There should be a 30 amp breaker as a main that feeds the rest of the breakers in the panel.
The way it is wired now, there is no main breaker that removes power from the whole system.

At the top of the panel the black supply wire from the power cord is connected to only one of the screws. To me it looks like only one breaker is getting power to it. If there is no bar across that provides power to both breakers, a jumper wire needs to be added.

The red wire is connected through a light socket between neutral and ground. If that light comes on it would indicate the power source is not wired correctly, polarity would be wrong. When the light comes on, there would be power to ground/hot skin. I would remove ALL of that completely and get a test meter or plug in tester.

The black romex inside the panel looks as if it is not connected inside the panel. The black romex that goes to the socket inside the junction box could either be to provide power to a fuse and on to some device, or it could be for a light socket. There is not enough information in the photos to tell us where the black romex goes.

No green or bare copper wire should connect to the neutral bar. Where the green wires are connected to the panel box is the place all green and bare copper should be connected to a ground bar. The ground bar should be bolted to the panel pox.

My advice to you: If you need to ask the questions you asked, you need someone who knows the answers to be there to help you.
Doing it wrong can kill you!

Whoever did the install should have asked/gotten help.
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