Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-31-2014, 12:31 PM   #101
3 Rivet Member
 
1972 21' Globetrotter
Wylie , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 140
I'm embarrassed to say at Ross. But I'm sure amazon has the newest and improved. Any luck with Trident?
rippie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2014, 09:31 PM   #102
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by rippie View Post
I'm embarrassed to say at Ross. But I'm sure amazon has the newest and improved. Any luck with Trident?
Don't fall into the "fallacy of origins". Just because something's origin isn't what one may want doesn't rule out its validity. If it works it works. Regardless of where it came from. ; )
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2014, 05:42 PM   #103
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Ok guys. I'm in the final steps of nailing down my floor plan and systems layout. Let me know what you guys think and if you see anything I might be missing or failed to consider.

Floor plan:
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2814873420.jpg
Views:	162
Size:	122.7 KB
ID:	204877

Fresh water system:
The pump and one way check valve will go under the couch/table


Click image for larger version

Name:	image-360704925.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	115.3 KB
ID:	204881

Electrical:
I haven't decided the best location for the electrical panel. My initial thought was under the cushion on the couch.


Click image for larger version

Name:	image-699562148.jpg
Views:	163
Size:	175.9 KB
ID:	204882

I tried to get plenty of 110v outlets and I even threw one in at the foot of the bed for the electric blanket, Vernon. ; ) the two outlets that look like they are on the floor are actually down on a wall/cabinet nearer to the baseboard for plugging in a small space heater if needed.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2548983998.jpg
Views:	116
Size:	115.3 KB
ID:	204880  
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2014, 02:16 PM   #104
Rivet Master
 
Hittenstiehl's Avatar
 
1962 28' Ambassador
1961 19' Globetrotter
1962 26' Overlander
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 4,761
Images: 9
Very nice use of the colored diagrams. It really helps to visualize where things are going. A 26 Overlander may be in our future so thanks for the inspiration.
__________________

Hittenstiehl
Hittenstiehl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2014, 04:23 PM   #105
Rivet Master
 
65CV's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
Images: 6
Looks very livable. A couple of thoughts:
- 12 volt receptacles
- Curtain from Dresser to Shower will give lots of privacy and extra quiet for naps
- if the 120v inlet is that far forward, you'll need a long cord in many parks
- I got a lot from mocking up the dinette in cardboard. Small tweaks matter.
- consider 2 tables. 1 for party mode, a long one to the window for just 2-4
- can you explain A/C ducting?

John
65CV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2014, 06:32 PM   #106
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Looks very livable. A couple of thoughts: - 12 volt receptacles - Curtain from Dresser to Shower will give lots of privacy and extra quiet for naps - if the 120v inlet is that far forward, you'll need a long cord in many parks - I got a lot from mocking up the dinette in cardboard. Small tweaks matter. - consider 2 tables. 1 for party mode, a long one to the window for just 2-4 - can you explain A/C ducting? John


Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3818345549.jpg
Views:	216
Size:	161.0 KB
ID:	204954


John,

Regarding the duct I plan to do something along this line to make sure the air from the AC gets to the front and, most importantly, back of the trailer where the bed is. A very thin but wide AC duct along the ceiling that moves the air to the ends of the trailer with a return vent in the center.

For the privacy curtain I am considering a sliding door that slides into the wall that separates the shower from the kitchen. I wonder if that's overkill?

I can locate the shore power inlet anywhere on the street side and wire it to the control panel. I am having a hard time thinking of an alternate location that doesn't cost me drawer space.

Please explain what you mean by a cardboard mock up... Are you talking a full sized mock up? I've been really concerned about getting the ergonomics of the dinette correct. This is a place that we will be spending a lot of time doing paperwork, eating dinner, and relaxing. I want to get that part right.

Thanks!

Toby.
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2014, 07:13 PM   #107
Rivet Master
 
65CV's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
Images: 6
Toby,

There are a couple of pictures here, see post 347. Yup, I kept some of the boxes from the fridge and AC to build the prototype.

See the previous page for a good discussion of dinette design. Ours is very different -- we did the A/C on the floor at the end of the galley. You'll see the pics there. It is installed, tested and VERY quiet but will require a 12v fan to circulate air within the trailer. I'm a light sleeper and couldn't sleep with the AC on the roof.

I'll be digging out of another storm tomorrow rather than working on the Overlander.

John
65CV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-05-2014, 05:32 PM   #108
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Ours is very different -- we did the A/C on the floor at the end of the galley. You'll see the pics there. It is installed, tested and VERY quiet but will require a 12v fan to circulate air within the trailer. I'm a light sleeper and couldn't sleep with the AC on the roof.
I've been tossing the idea of putting the AC on the floor like that, but I have had a few reservations about doing it. For it to cool optimally it would need to be ducted up to the ceiling instead of letting the cool air out low to the ground. Even with fans you wouldn't get proper air circulation with the supply duct low. Ideally for an AC only system (no heater) both the return air and the supply air vents should be high for maximum cooling so that the supply is high and the cool air falls. The return duct placed high so that it draws in the hot air and cools it instead of drawing cool air off the floor. This will be especially important here in Texas where we hit 110 degrees on some days.

What have you experienced with your set up as far as cooling ability on hot days, John? I like the 12v fans you put in for extra air flow over the condenser coil. Do you have any pics of the cover you put on the outside?
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2014, 05:48 PM   #109
Rivet Master
 
65CV's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
Images: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cardinal283 View Post
What have you experienced with your set up as far as cooling ability on hot days, John? I like the 12v fans you put in for extra air flow over the condenser coil. Do you have any pics of the cover you put on the outside?
My idea of a hot day is 90, not 110! In 90+ degrees, with no curtains on the windows, it was just holding 70s. With reflectix between the windows and screens, it was much better. Sorry, but I didn't get temps.

If you use regular curtains, with some open to the sun, I don't think a 12000 but A/C will do the trick in Texas, no matter where it is located.

You may want to ping utee94, who has a '63 Overlander not far from Austin. He may have more insight on AC in your weather.

In the summertime, we head to Vermont or Canada. I can't imagine your summers!

I don't have a current picture of the cover for the vent, but the original, unpolished one is in this thread, the first picture in post 20.
65CV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2014, 05:28 PM   #110
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Yeah. Our summer can get pretty brutal. Add the triple digit temps with 90% humidity and the incessant sun over head and it gets really nasty. I've used my laser thermometer on the blacktop and it gets up to 150 degrees.

On a side note. While I haven't been working on the Armadillo as of late I have spent a little time inside it when it's cold out. I ran a little propane shop heater to take the chill off of the inside and I noticed some places that have water in the U channel. It runs onto the floor and makes little water streaks. I'm pretty sure I have all the leaks taped up with aluminum tape and this is condensation on the exterior skin (the interior lower skin is still off with no insulation). I understand that I have warm moist air touching a cold conductive surface. Hence the condensation. Once I get this insulated and have the inner skins back on is this still a common problem? Or will it try to condense on the inside of the inner skin instead?
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2014, 07:16 PM   #111
Rivet Master
 
65CV's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
Images: 6
150 is insane! I see why some put 2 a/c units in. I can't believe that a 12K but unit would work for you. Maybe a 15 or 18, if you can locate one.

On the heater, keep in mind that propane heaters put out a LOT of moisture. Every little propane molecule produces 4 molecules of water and 3 of CO2 -- if you have perfect combustion and no carbon monoxide.

In my experience, the moisture all condenses on the single pane windows. With good wall insulation, it doesn't condense there at all.

We always keep a window cracked an inch and a roof vent cracked about two inches to keep the moisture level down and to be sure we're safe from carbon monoxide. We never run the heater without a CO monitor running.

With enough fresh air, you can keep the moisture under control in a reasonably humid area. If it's really humid and cold, it's damp! That's when the electric heat comes in very hand.
65CV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2014, 04:52 PM   #112
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
With good wall insulation, it doesn't condense there at all
What method did you use when insulating yours? I'm leaning toward double layered Prodex at the moment.
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2014, 07:17 PM   #113
Rivet Master
 
65CV's Avatar
 
1959 26' Overlander
Western , Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
Images: 6
We used double layer Prodex, getting air space between layers by using strips of prodex. We glued vertical strips, then a full layer, then horizontal strips, then a full layer. It's all in my thread, with pics.

There's been a lot of work reported on this forum on different methods. After reading a bunch, I definitely concluded that the reflective insulation is much better if you plan to be in direct sunlight in warm weather -- especially as far south as you are!

If you haven't seen discussions about Prodex deals, keep an eye on insulation4less.com. They aren't user friendly, but do drop prices frequently. If you're not in a hurry, you'll be able to pick up a good deal. Some have hit 50% off. Two 48" rolls will do an Overlander with 2 layers on the walls, one on the floor and enough to make an insert between each window and screen. When not in use, ours has the Prodex window covers in place. It keeps the UV out well while reducing temperature swings.
65CV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2014, 12:03 PM   #114
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
I like that idea. You have an air gap between the exterior skin and the first layer of Prodex and then a second air gap between the first and second layer of Prodex. I will read over your thread and take some notes on installation.

I created an account on insulation4less and they send me emails for promotions. I'm not to the point of insulating yet but I'm getting ready for it. I'm hoping that before I am ready that they will have one of those 50% off sales. : )
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 01:56 PM   #115
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
I'm needing to buy a tool but I don't know the name of it. It's a sheet metal tool for breaking the edge of a piece of sheet metal over slightly to create a finished edge. I've seen them before I just don't know what it's called. It's a handle and it has rollers on it that produce the result shown in the pic. It can even do this around a curve such as around the top of the main door. Does anyone know what that tool is called or what the process of making this type of edge is called?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-871833388.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	439.3 KB
ID:	205816  
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 02:17 PM   #116
Rivet Master
 
truckasaurus's Avatar
 
1960 33' Custom
Athens , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,324
Images: 25
EDGE ROLLING TOOL from Aircraft Spruce
__________________
1960 Sovereign 33' Pacific Railroad Custom
truckasaurus is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 02:40 PM   #117
Moderator
 
HiHoAgRV's Avatar

 
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,900
Images: 29
Blog Entries: 49
Or if you are looking for an excuse to buy tools, this is what I use to make those edges.

http://www.eastwood.com/welders/bead-roller.html
__________________
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie(RIP) -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy https://www.airforums.com/forums/f20...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly https://www.airforums.com/forums/f10...ome-71609.html
HiHoAgRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 02:42 PM   #118
Moderator
 
HiHoAgRV's Avatar

 
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central , Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,900
Images: 29
Blog Entries: 49
Like this...
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-3123140860.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	367.3 KB
ID:	205822  
__________________
Hi Ho Silver RV! Vernon, Sarah, Mac the Border Collie(RIP) -
A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy https://www.airforums.com/forums/f20...num-54749.html
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly https://www.airforums.com/forums/f10...ome-71609.html
HiHoAgRV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2014, 04:06 PM   #119
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Or if you are looking for an excuse to buy tools, this is what I use to make those edges. http://www.eastwood.com/welders/bead-roller.html
OOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHH!!!!! I want one!!! That's perfect! It does everything I need and a bunch of stuff I don't need but sure can find a good use for!
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2014, 09:21 PM   #120
3 Rivet Member
 
Cardinal283's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Dallas , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 243
Just placed my order for buy one get one free on prodex. Getting geared up for Phase 2 of Operation Armadillo.
Cardinal283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1963, 1963 overlander


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:42 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.