1959 Overlander Restoration

[65CV]

Originally Posted by utee94

High was 87 at my house yesterday afternoon, wish you were here!

If I were there yesterday, I would have missed the birth of a healthy new grandson -- 7lbs. 14oz.

He and his Mom are both doing quite well.

I can't think of a better reason to come home a bit early this year!

[reinergirl]

Congratulations! That's wonderful news, lucky grandson to have grandparents with an Airstream!

[65CV]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

Congratulations! That's wonderful news, lucky grandson to have grandparents with an Airstream!

Thanks!

I think that corner tub is a perfect design for grandkids. We'll see.

[timzog]

Originally Posted by utee94

I really dislike both the look, and feel, of a gaucho. And for our family of 2 adults and 2 small kiddos, I just don't think it would be practical. As Zep has mentioned, dinettes can be made to be comfortable, and if you drop the table you can turn it into a big bed and lounge all you want, with enough room for the whole family!

I'm beginning the design phase for the front half of my trailer, and I'm pretty well set on creating a modular U-shaped dinette with a table that drops easily into the "pit" to become a (roughly) queen size front bed. The table will be easy to drop and lift (I've seen hydraulic lifts in marine dinettes that would likely work, as well as a few Forums members who have done similar). That will become the main sleeping area for my wife and me, and the kids can move to the midships twins. It'll take a bit of extra time to convert the bed to a dinette during day use and then back into bed form later, but it's no different than the amount of work we're doing currently, switching Superbed from a giant King+ back to twins/couches for day use.

But because I've grown to love the big open front salon area in certain applications (like tailgate parties), I'm also going to make the entire dinette modular and easily removable. I'm imagining some sturdy clamps that flip over lower frame rails on some modular seat/bench-sized pieces, and through-bolts that hold it all in place. That way each piece can be installed and removed coming through the front door, and I can pick and choose which pieces I have in place for any given application. Hopefully more to come next winter!

John-- So very sorry I missed y'all when you were in Austin, work was extremely busy and I had much more travel than usual from December-February. But PLEASE do drop me a line next time you're in town and the Shiner Bock will be my treat! By then, you'll have a finished trailer to show me no doubt, and perhaps I will, in turn!

Take Care!
-Marcus

Hey Marcus,
I'm also planning a modular approach to furniture in my Caravelle. My current plan is to attach a T track about 16" off the floor along the wall of the dinette area. Any furniture would just need a hole at the right height and could be adjusted or removed with a simple knurled knob and T bolt. I'll work on some diagrams if that doesn't make sense. Good luck with your project,
Tim

[utee94]

Originally Posted by timzog

Hey Marcus,
I'm also planning a modular approach to furniture in my Caravelle. My current plan is to attach a T track about 16" off the floor along the wall of the dinette area. Any furniture would just need a hole at the right height and could be adjusted or removed with a simple knurled knob and T bolt. I'll work on some diagrams if that doesn't make sense. Good luck with your project,
Tim

Sounds cool, would definitely love to see any ideas you have. Feel free to post them to my thread below if you like, unless you have a thread of your own to use.

I was thinking about a track along the walls, and some hooks or clips built into the floor that latch over some bottom rails on the modular pieces to hold them down. Also probably some clips that can hook each piece to the one next to it. I'm still in the early stages of noodling on it.

-Marcus

[65CV]

Despite rumors to the contrary, this thread is not dead. Life happens.

I'm starting the spring with a lap around the exterior, doing a lot of things that weren't essential for our winter trip. First step is fixing the baggage and refrigerator access doors. I want to get that aluminum tape off!

I replaced the lock on the refrigerator access door and it failed on the trip. When getting the new one together, I see why. In the first picture, you can see the guts pulled out of the lock -- when we pulled in for diesel one day, I noticed the guts missing from the lock. There is a screw in the back that came loose, allowing the whole thing to fall apart. The screw holding the lock arm on teh new one is getting locktite.

Someone lost the key to the baggage door and pried the lock out, leaving an opening that looked like the perfect mouse-size hole. I drilled out all the buck rivets and -- surprise -- the insulation was in really good shape. It wasn't a waste of time because the new baggage door lock can be properly installed, with locktite.

I did the same type of insulation in the door as the rest of the trailer, using 2 layers of Prodex, separated by glued prodex strips to form multiple air gaps.

The refrigerator access door has no insulation. Does anyone see a problem in using fiberglass insulation covered by aluminum?

What gaskets are recommended for these vintage doors?

John

[Zeppelinium]

Originally Posted by 65CV

...
The refrigerator access door has no insulation. Does anyone see a problem in using fiberglass insulation covered by aluminum?...

John,

The fridge access door has no insulation because the fridge chimney is open to ambient air, and that air is supposed to be flowing from bottom to top vent. There is no reason for insulation in the door (unless you typically park with that door facing the sun all day--which would require a new flat earth theory).

Zep

[BIGED52]

John, They used a fur like hatch gasket on the '60's trailers that InlandRv.com carries. may also get it @ OoDM or VTS I would think. I would bet the newer trailers may use something a little better when it comes to gasket for hatches that might be a more positive seal. I will be looking into this very gasket material myself today. I am making a trip to the local A/S dealer and will post what I find on the new trailers. Ed

[65CV]

Originally Posted by Zeppelinium

John,

The fridge access door has no insulation because the fridge chimney is open to ambient air, and that air is supposed to be flowing from bottom to top vent. There is no reason for insulation in the door (unless you typically park with that door facing the sun all day--which would require a new flat earth theory).

Zep

Thanks, Zep.

I haven't built the fridge cabinet yet and you have me rethinking insulating the sides of it to make a fireproof but insulated chimney box.

I'd make a joke about rotisserie, but I'm afraid of starting another rotisserie drinking game! (theVap joke, for those who missed it).

John

[65CV]

Originally Posted by BIGED52

John, They used a fur like hatch gasket on the '60's trailers that InlandRv.com carries. may also get it @ OoDM or VTS I would think. I would bet the newer trailers may use something a little better when it comes to gasket for hatches that might be a more positive seal. I will be looking into this very gasket material myself today. I am making a trip to the local A/S dealer and will post what I find on the new trailers. Ed

Look forward to your reply, Ed.

I played with some gasket materials that I had around and they weren't a good fit. The original gaskets were a mess.

I assume that it's best to use two gaskets as show here. Looks like one was mounted on the door and another permanently affixed to the inside of the frame.

John

[reinergirl]

Welcome back!

I'm just starting to work on my baggage doors. I wasn't happy with that lock either so I went looking for an alternative. I found Mello Mikes blog (anyone remember him? He used to have an AS Overlander... ). Anyway found this blog post.

Mello Mike's RV & Off-Road Adventures: Replacing Your Worthless CH751 RV Locks

Way nicer - heavy locks, more pick proof, made in the USA .... I haven't installed them yet but I'm not anticipating any problems. Fast shipping and the lady was very nice on the phone.

[65CV]

Thanks, Shelly. I'll check them out. The baggage door is buck riveted, so that is staying with the beefier VTS lock. I have a new one for the fridge door already, but that one isn't buried inside a panel and -- if there is another issue -- it's toast.

The good news is that aluminum tape is a great thing for the spare parts kit. It held, leak free, for more than 1000 miles of salty winter driving.

John

[65CV]

Baggage door and refrigerator access door are both cleaned up and locks are installed. I used 3/8" x 7/16" big box gasket for the interior gasket on the baggage door and will play around with sizes for the outer gasket. The top gap is about twice as large as the bottom gap, so it's a bit of a challenge. I think I'll use cheapo gasket temporarily while following reinergirl's thread. Guaranteed she'll research and post the perfect solution!

As I mentioned, someone pried open the lock. For the sake of new members, I snapped a pic with all the tools for bucking on the patch and rejoining the two door halves. The rivet gun is in the foreground with a small bucking bar just behind it to the right. I picked up a set of 3 on eBay for about $25.
The cleco pliers are just behind the gun to the left. Clecos are terrific for lining up holes in panels and prevent your part from looking like a potato chip when done. Remove a cleco, buck in a rivet and repeat. BTW, all the vertical black things are clecos. I bought most of my rivet stuff at http://airpartsinc.com.

If you need info on rivets, Aerowood is the forum guru. See his restoration thread or comments here.

[65CV]

All the windows have dried out gaskets, so they all have to be removed cleaned/polished and regasketed. Mary did the first one -- seven more to go.

We used VTS' window bulb seal, which didn't look right but seems to work fine. The old gasket is a different shape on the outside, but the slot size seems just right. The window is hard to close, but hopefully that will change.

The old seal shrank so much that I couldn't believe that it was actually the original. Apparently it was. Look at the lower left corner of the upper window -- that's how much the original gasket shrunk! The lower window is finished.

Has anyone found a replacement for the little part that holds the center screw. They are apparently very important. Think a stainless screw with locktite is enough?

[utee94]

Looks fantastic!

Mary obviously doesn't need it, but if you're interested, Frank did a Windows Tutorial on his blog, and I think he mentions that screw. Last time I read it was maybe 4 years ago, I probably should again.

Frank's Trailer Works Blog: Windows 101

[65CV]

Marcus,

That is a great tutorial and the pieces are mentioned in there, but not reused.

I thought someone mentioned that the screws are essential. One of those "don't ask me how I know they're important" stories. I've forgotten who.

Break 100 down there yet?

John

[desertair27]

Originally Posted by 65CV

All the windows have dried out gaskets, so they all have to be removed cleaned/polished and regasketed. Mary did the first one -- seven more to go.

We used VTS' window bulb seal, which didn't look right but seems to work fine. The old gasket is a different shape on the outside, but the slot size seems just right. The window is hard to close, but hopefully that will change.

The old seal shrank so much that I couldn't believe that it was actually the original. Apparently it was. Look at the lower left corner of the upper window -- that's how much the original gasket shrunk! The lower window is finished.

Has anyone found a replacement for the little part that holds the center screw. They are apparently very important. Think a stainless screw with locktite is enough?

Your windows look fabulous! It's amazing how much the glazing strips shrink over time,hopefully the new ones from VTS won't do the same Anytime soon.
Mike

[Becky B.]

I read somewhere, on the forum I think, that you can replace the plastic piece with a piece of 14 gauge wire (I'm assuming stranded & coated). It's probably the same diameter. I lost one of mine. I also still have the other ones in a baggie. I know I should take the windows back out to put that plastic piece in, but the window slid really hard when it was in there. Frank said on the forum somewhere that if you don't put them back in, sometime your window will not be square to the frame it closes on & the weld at the corner will break. So.....I guess it's a risk without it, but I might take it. I donno....

[nmbosa]

I havent been able to replace the plastic piece in my windows either. Every one of them disintegrated as I took the windows out for restoration. Without that plastic piece, the window can slide back and forth a bit in the frame which risks breaking the frame when you close the window if it is too far out of alingment.

Norm

[MaryC]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

I'm just starting to work on my baggage doors. I wasn't happy with that lock either so I went looking for an alternative. I found Mello Mikes blog (anyone remember him? He used to have an AS Overlander... ). Anyway found this blog post.
. . .

Hey reinergirl, I now own Mello Mike's Overlander. I bought it last August from the person who purchased it from him. Its currently in the shop having the interior remodeled and the plumbing gas and electricals updated. I was so happy to find his posts here on the forums so that I knew quite a bit about what he had done to it. When we get it home, there will still be lots to do for finishing touches etc. but also the windows will be getting a tune up and some gaskets replaced, as well as a few handles. We also are going to need to replace the door gaskets. Just waiting to get it back in my possession and get going on it for some trips this year. I'm enjoying reading all these Overlander threads.